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[Build log] Thermaltake Core V1 remake and full custom watercooling. - Page 2

post #11 of 157
Thread Starter 
Originally Posted by Liquored View Post

Looks great, i was thinking of doing the same with a 200mm rad.
The innermost holes/threads in the the fan-shroud on the radiator fits perfectly for the threads in the cabinet used by the large 200mm front fan.

I had planned to use the fan-grill to protect the radiator from the inside, but the size is all wrong, even though it is made for this particular radiator! ohno-smiley.gif

The two inner holes in each corner of the fan-grill fits on the fan-shroud on the radiator. The radiator only has 1 shroud though AND the fan-grill is much too large to even fit into the cabinet. Sigh.
Waiting for Specialtech.co.uk to get back to me on this fan-grill matter.

Edit: if you go looking for a 200mm fan, I think this is the thickest one you can find. I found some various 36mm thick ones as well (mine is 47mm).
If you are Lucky you can cram a 36mm one into the front space instead of the big front fan.
I considered one of the Alphacool NexXxoS Monsta 180mm Single 225 x 182 x 85mm into my macine with some custom front stuff to fix it in place. But then I found the 200mm from Phobya I bought instead
Edited by Darron - 1/11/15 at 9:44am
post #12 of 157
Very professional job you've done!
Darron i'm newbie with custom watercooler, i've ordered swiftech h140-x and some transparent tubbing to customize it.
I'm thinking in MAYBE expand it to the gpu, adding a second reservoir or radiator, but i 'm concerned about the maintenance. Ex: if i need to remove the gpu, will i need to take of the entire water cooler system?
Thanks in advance, and congrats again!
post #13 of 157
Thread Starter 
Originally Posted by svictorcc View Post

Very professional job you've done!
Darron i'm newbie with custom watercooler, i've ordered swiftech h140-x and some transparent tubbing to customize it.
I'm thinking in MAYBE expand it to the gpu, adding a second reservoir or radiator, but i 'm concerned about the maintenance. Ex: if i need to remove the gpu, will i need to take of the entire water cooler system?
Thanks in advance, and congrats again!

There are a few different ways depending on your setup.
You really have to ask yourself a question before starting on watercooling your hardware:
"Do you often need to remove GPU or other watercooled hardware?"
If you often do replace watercooled hardware, you have to ask yourself if the following things are going to be a fun hobby/learning curve, or just a huge bother;

If you need to take out graphicscard for some reason, and intend to put it back or put in another card that match the GPU-waterblock:
You might be able to loosen the waterblock from the Graphics-Card and just remove the Card and leave the waterblock hanging (literally). This depends on the lengths of tubing you have at your disposal in your build.
Be aware that you can get different kinds of graphics-cooling blocks: From full-cover waterblocks that cools everything from GPU to ram to powerstages on the Graphics Card, and other blocks that only cools the GPU itself. Some blocks cool GPU and RAM only.

If the above solution isn't viable, you would normally drain out the Water from your loop.
Either through a drainhole or simply just pull the tubing from one of your fittings - Power removed of course and proper precausion taken not to flood your hardware.
When you see the flow is really slow when draining it, you can open up another "fitting" somewhere else in the loop (at the top, or at another suitable place) to let air in smile.gif

To be realistic though: if you need to take out the Graphics Card for some reason you can always do some general upgrading of your loop anyways (putting in flow-meters, temp-sensors and what not) in which case you would drain your loop anyway biggrin.gif
post #14 of 157
Thread Starter 
If the setup is going to look like these, you might not want to remove hardware all that often!

These are made for quiet run. Looks weren't really important back then, hehe.

Vintage images warning! hehethumb.gif

Homemade everything 2007-08 -
Before I made any changes to PSU location or even installed watercooling.
Can see a rewiring of CPU-power. Made a hole through the MB tray for that wire.
Case insolated for silence.

With watercooling running and draining - of the above setup.

Notice how I had moved the PSU from top position Down in front of MB to make room for radiator in the top.
Back when custom cases weren't bought, but build smile.gif

Custommade everything 2008-09
I got tired of the messy setup shown above and bought myself a bigger case. I also wanted to play with CrossFire
What you see here is a setup with 2 parallel flows. The thick tubes goes to the two Graphics Cards and the CPU, while the smaller tubes go around South and northbridge, and around flowsenser, Water temp sensors, and even watercool my Aquaro from Aqua-computer (I think I had the first one at this date).
The smaller tubes also cools the some of the Graphics Cards, as I couldn't get full VGA Cards back then, so had two blocks pr VGA instead. I glued the smaller yellow blocks on for VGA.

Edited by Darron - 1/11/15 at 10:50pm
post #15 of 157
Thread Starter 
So, today is the day for fitting the big 200 mm radiator to the front.

I made a model of the fan-shroud from the radiator, and fixed it to the front of the chassis.
Then I put tape in either end of the different cuts.
Unfortuantely I had to cut away some of the motherboard tray, but it couldn't be avoided if I wanted to use the original 200mm fan thread holes.

The Cut
Here you can see the how the edges has been removed from the desired areas.
You might Wonder why I don't just remove a larger part of the front for added airflow, or just for the ease of it.
I want to run this semi-passively with just a 120mm silent fan, so I really need the vertical bars for installation of the fan. Also for structural integrity.
I did smooth out the edges before proceeding, but I seems to have lost the Photos I took.

Here I testfit. First with the paper model, and later with the actual radiator.
I noticed a potential source of damage to my radiator from the cut on the MB-tray.

Screw adjustment:
I didn' have any screws in the right size to go through the front case and just Mount the radiator
4x 3Mx5mm were supposed to be included with the radiator, but they weren't in my box.

Real fit
I made the cut into the MB-tray slightly deeper and installed a rubber edge to prevent damage to the radiator when installing and removing the radiator..
I have installed the G1/4 plugs and the nice Monsoon fittings.
Also fitted a 120mm fan to the front. On this image you can see the front IO holes I made as well. Located on the left side of the fan.
Final image shows the case in its final position.

Edited by Darron - 1/12/15 at 11:29am
post #16 of 157
Thread Starter 
I also found "time" to trade out the existing tall round and hard feet with some lower rubber feet.

The original feet splinters when removing them, which I first learned when I removed one of them in order to measure it for Sketchup.
So, I had low expectations of the survival rate of the rest of them. The concern proved valid.

Here you can see the new feets installed and the case with the new feet. Final image shows the old feet next to the case. You can see they are quiet a bit higher - 8 mm to be exact!

Edited by Darron - 1/12/15 at 11:31am
post #17 of 157
Thread Starter 
Today I wanted to address a few nagging issues:
  1. I found that it is impossible to buy an original fan-shroud for my radiator, or even just a fan-grill!! So I have to make one. I'll try to design one that can act as a pump-Mount.
  2. I still havn't decided on pump or reservoir placement
  3. I want to take action on an idea I've had to hide the rear IO ports with some black acrylic plate. It needs to act as a pump-Mount as well. The IO-shield, will function as an actual shield, as I will put EMI/EMC shielding tape on the backside of it.

So, that was a lot actually. The first part here will show some of my thoughts on these issues, as they presents themselves in Sketchup.

In the first image I have depicted the fan-shroud and a pump located on it.
The second image shows the IO-shield/pump-Mount combo, and the
Third image shows a frontal (side) view of the computer, displaying how the IO-ports will be hidden behind the black acrylic.
One of my issues are that the pumps seems MASSIVE here in sketchup, but not so when I put the pump in. It must be something to with depth-perception or something, so I really have to do some testing of the actual hardware in the case.
LEAD Technologies Inc. V1.01LEAD Technologies Inc. V1.01LEAD Technologies Inc. V1.01

Preparing items
Here I have already drawn up the fan-shroudh and show up needed tools. The yellow "thing" (don't know English Word) is for making straight cuts with my knife. In later phots you will see I use a large metal ruler instead.
And so you might ask what do I do with a knife? I use the ruler as a guide to cut about a 0,5mm cut along the break-lines.

Breaking the acrylic using hands (controlled)
The first images shows a cut I made to break off some excess material.
The second image shows how I lined the cut up with the edge of my table, which is really nice for these kinds of things, as it has a very Sharp Aluminum edge.
The third image shows how it breaks nicely when pressure is Applied.
I have mounted the acrylic to the table as you can see.

Strap it Down tight
If you don't want to risk a finger or just a stray cut over the acrylic, you might want to use some tools (?) to hold the ruler down, as showin in image 1.
The second image shows how I have attached my 2 wrenches (?) and use them for much better leverage than just by hands,

Error, stray cut
Here you can see how I accidentially cut a stray line, and sure enough, the break followed suit.

Drilling and cutting
Drilling and cutting acrylic really isn't that hard, you just need to take it slow.
First you see the tools I'm going to use: a 2mm drill to make the first guidehole. a 4mm drill to enlarge the hole enough for the large 20mm drill to get in place. I use the 20mm to get a nice big hole for the actual cutting blade. Here I use one for metal. You can get special blades for acrylic, but mine is still in the mail somewhere...

Ohh, the drills are metal drillsas Wood-drills would rapidly carve its way down and crack the plate. Even though you use metal-drill bits you still have to hold it off some, or you might crack the plate anyway. You need the drill to scrape away material, not cut away material. There is a difference, and it is important.

As you might be able to see, I only drill part way through with the 20mm drill. As soon as it starts scraping the acrylic with the level plane between the "teeth", I stop drilling from that side. I do the rest of the way from the opposit side to minimize the risk of fracturing the acrylic plate.
Cutting/sawing: when sawing in acrylic is is very important to do it on a stable surface. To minimize the flexing I only left a gap large enough for my saw-blade, as you can see in the last image.

As the Sharp reader might notice, there is an inconsistency between my sketchup fan-shroud and the actual one I made. It's because I did some adjustments afterwards to allow for the 24pin cable which I forgot in the first go...
The two smaller pieces are going to be the left hand IO-shield and pump-combo.

Tomorrow I'll get my hands on a heat-gun and start bending the materials to be useable - at least I hope I find the time to do so.

Ohh, the clear acrylic here are just scraps I had. I'm going to use black 3mm and 5mm acrylic instead biggrin.gif
Edited by Darron - 1/13/15 at 1:36pm
post #18 of 157
Thread Starter 
Didn't have time for any modifications today, but I did get my shielding tape. Seems I loooked it up wrong, when I ordered it, as it is only 5mm wide. I can still use it though, just have to make a lot of strips to cover the IO-hiding plate smile.gif

I also borrowed a heat gun. It has two intervals: 300c an 500c (that's just insane), so I have to be really carefull not to overheat the acrylic. At least it comes with a lot of different heads to manage how the heat-flow hits the material.

Edited by Darron - 1/14/15 at 11:22am
post #19 of 157
Thread Starter 
Sat down to model the removable front-cover in Sketchup when I noticed how my Radiator prevents the latches from the front-cover to get through the holes to latch onto the case.
LEAD Technologies Inc. V1.01

I had two options:
  1. Cut off the latches from the front-cover and figure out some alternative way of attaching it.
  2. Find a way to get some distance between the radiator and the front of the case.

I really did not want to ruin the front-cover. Especially since I'm still not sure about the internal layout regarding pump and reservoir, so decided to figure out a way to get the radiator 8mm back from the front.

At first I thought I'd cut out a piece of 5mm acrylic I had like I did the 3mm the other day, sandwich them and that would be it.
You might have guessed, that I didn't go with this one, although I did cut out a 20x20cm 5mm acrylic piece from some scrap I had. Before I started carving the interiour out of it though, I figured I'd like to try using some stan-offs instead. You know the ones between your standard motherboard and motherboard tray.

I order to use the stand-offs i would have to use the 3mm acrylic as the threads in the stand--offs didn't match the fan-shroud that comes with the radiator.

I actually just used the Acrylic I did the other day. You know, the one with the platform meant for a pump, which I measured wrong. (forgot to take the 24pin power cable into account).

I actually cracked it some as you can see in some of the images. I will make some new later on if this is the design I choose to follow.

You might remember I've talked a lot about pump placement. Guess what, I found yet a way to Mount it.

Edited by Darron - 1/15/15 at 4:21am
post #20 of 157
Thread Starter 
Updated the first page to contain new and better images and description:
Illustrated what's going to happen in short:
The goal is to be able to turn the case on it's side. Also turn the front and move the IO front-panel to be placed orienting the right way -> meaning we cut new holes to Mount the IO-panel and remove the middle pins/legs on the front-cover.
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