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post #41 of 61
BTW that HX I linked to earlier has a design pressure of 140PSI. it'd probably survive in a 60/40 system without issue (put a hammer arrestor on the line if you're worried), if you wanted to DIY with a cheap storage tank (bargain/used water heater not hooked to gas/electric + a recirc pump and some plumbing?).
 
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post #42 of 61
Didn't read through all of the posts in this thread so sorry if it's been mentioned. You live in Canada. Go geothermal. chiller box with a radiator first in the loop. No insulating of the board necessary. The issue with tap water is that it has a lot of "stuff' in it. Stuff is bad for the small channels that make up water blocks. You need a closed loop or ultra filtered water. Dig a hole and throw some copper pipe in it. Insulate it against freezing. Man, I wish I live in Canada... Except for the fact that it's 60f here in SC today. I had to wear a sweater! BRRRR cold...
post #43 of 61
I'm not 100% sure on the diagram, but I believe I see 3 problems with this.

1. High pressure. Most blocks are not designed to work with mains-like water pressures. Sure you can use high-pressure tolerant tubing but the blocks will bulge out and the plastics could crack.'
2. I don't see a pump in your diagram, which implies you are using the flow from the mains to maintain coolant flow. If you have nothing in your house using water, your coolant will stagnate inside your blocks, causing temperatures to skyrocket within seconds, easily boiling the water inside and, again, causing pressure/bulging problems and potentially causing your blocks or tubes to explode.
3. You are using city water, which has a lot of additives. This can cause a lot of buildup and corrosion within your blocks. You probably won't need to worry about microbes, but the chemical reactions and battery-like reactions (You don't know what other metals are used in your city water lines) will eat away at the metals in your loop.

I don't see this being a viable liquid cooling solution.

If the aim of this was to have a noiseless PC, do what I do. Use standard liquid cooling components, but instead of having the fans/pump/other noise-making parts in the PC, run long coolant tubes to another room, or outside, where you can't hear it. If you choose to run them outside, make sure to use a coolant that's tolerant of sub-zero temperatures. In dry environments (<20% humidity), I don't foresee condensation being a critical problem. My ambient is 21C and 17% relative humidity, with outside ambients at -8C. My components surface temperatures is 3C and not getting any condensation. Any significantly lower and they'd be freezing any posible condensation

(Yes, I live 'dangerously')
(Yes, I know, I don't have my SLI bridge attached)


Edited by ssateneth - 1/1/16 at 4:42pm
post #44 of 61
Quote:
Originally Posted by bichael View Post


Quote:
Originally Posted by Throwastone1990 View Post

.

Perhaps I missed something... I haven't read the entire thread but where are you exchanging water back into? I certainly hope not back into the potable line. I could see a closed system to exchange heat and only use potable water to top off low levels. BUT keep any return water away from the drinking supply, if not you're seriously going to cause havoc to the entire home system and your health.

I can only imagine this:



However, why not setup some type of grey water system then filter and store that in a small/medium water tank. Use any overfill for plants and overgrowth in your yard, etc.. that way you're not messing with your home plumbing and dread it a couple years later. IMO.
Edited by HIGHPOINT - 6/14/16 at 6:31pm
post #45 of 61
Thread Starter 
@ssateneth and high point: I am using a heat exachanger to keep the pressure and the "contaminated water" out of the water blocks. This enables me to use dystilled water or glycol on the pic side of the setup.

Ssatenth I was hoping to use convection for the hot water from the heat exchanger to be dissipated and transferred into my hot water lines. The pc side of the heat exchanger would have it's standard pump and reservoir. Just instead of a rad it uses a heat exchanger to conduct the heat to my home
Plumbing and hot water tank.
post #46 of 61
Thread Starter 
This was a idea I had awhile ago which I still won't be implementing in awhile. With my current rig working good at 1080p (7950 crossfire i73820) at ultra settings I haven't been rushing to rebuild yet.. Plus bought a house and other things.
I still plan on doing similar some day, but I may just use a small separate tank instead, i don't tend to game more then a few hours at a time I figure 30l storage reservoir would give me plenty of game time.
post #47 of 61
Hello! Just read through this the other day and I am really intrigued with the idea. I understand that this project is on hold for a while, but I look forward to seeing what develops in the future. (I am not a plumber so unfortunately I do not have anything useful to contribute to the conversation) redface.gif
     
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post #48 of 61
Just look up heat pump de superheater dhw systems. It's not a novel idea - but code everywhere will require a double wall HX.
 
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post #49 of 61
So I did a bit of thinking on this, and maybe someone can provide some feedback.

In my opinion, the fatal flaw with this concept would be the capacity of the water heater. If I remember this correctly, once the water heater fills completely, water stops flowing to it, right? Which potentially, this could mean that when the heater fills, then the water in the heat exchanger would stop flowing.

There are a couple solutions that I could think of to alleviate this issue:

1- Have some means of overfill control, where once the heater reaches capacity, a pressure release valve of sorts would allow water to flow down the drain.
I personally don't like that solution, as in a city environment, that would mean increased water bills, and wasting water softener pellets.

2- Set up a second heat exchanger with an external radiator solution, that toggles on when a flowmeter detects that the water pressure of the plumbing decreases too much.

I hope this makes sense. redface.gif
     
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post #50 of 61
If you're in the US (or Canada and probably most of western europe), code demands that you use a double wall HX to separate your potable and non-potable water systems.

you basically MUST have something like this for it to be worthwhile:

regular water heater is left alone, and a tank is placed in front of it. the water in the un-plugged tank is circulated through your double-wall hx (via a pump), and your PC loop with pump is the other side of that hx. it's not complicated to have a rad/fan on a thermostat on the inlet side of your CPU block.

all the waste heat from your PC then goes to heating your hot water, and when you run out of capacity it just dumps into the room like normal.

no flowmeters/pressure sensors or elevated water bills.
Edited by u3b3rg33k - 10/1/16 at 12:53pm
 
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