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How to correctly leak test your loop......101? - Page 33

post #321 of 428
Quote:
Originally Posted by MIGhunter View Post

ok, I pulled the res out and just went from the pump to the radiator. I'm still getting some leakage but it isn't fast like it was. So, it's definitely an issue with the res...
check fittings and that the tube is tight
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post #322 of 428
So, when I pulled the Res out, I noticed one of the fittings coming off it didn't have an o-ring! So, either it was broken and fell out when I disassembled it or it just wasn't there in the 1st place. So, I put a new one in and now I'm just getting a slow air leak. The little short run from the pump to the res isn't attached to the pump securely atm and I need to tinker with it. I'm pretty sure that's the current air leak. Will do that this week (working the next 3 days, 12 hour night shifts).
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post #323 of 428
Yuck 12 hour nights! I'm currently on day 11 of 44 nights straight working 12s its crazy the the things we do for money!
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post #324 of 428
Also didn't read to much but I've noticed air leaks as well and shot from the hip anyways filled her and there was never leak. The fluid helps seat the orings from my experience. I also use a on off valve pump the air in note pressure on my gauge and then turn on off valve to off and come back 24 hours later and check it again. Usually my gauge assemble was the culprit of long term leaks. I'm on my third caselabs build and Haven't had a leak yet.... Well besides when I started the fill process and 1 of the 3 ek res plugs wasn't in and it looked like niagra falls in the case ha ha
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post #325 of 428
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trestles126 View Post

Yuck 12 hour nights! I'm currently on day 11 of 44 nights straight working 12s its crazy the the things we do for money!
Ya, been doing 12s for a lifetime. Worked in the ER doing 12s in the Navy. Then went to the Rifle Range as their medical support and worked 12+. Got out of the Navy, working in an ER now, still doing 12s. Man I need a break...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trestles126 View Post

Also didn't read to much but I've noticed air leaks as well and shot from the hip anyways filled her and there was never leak. The fluid helps seat the orings from my experience. I also use a on off valve pump the air in note pressure on my gauge and then turn on off valve to off and come back 24 hours later and check it again. Usually my gauge assemble was the culprit of long term leaks. I'm on my third caselabs build and Haven't had a leak yet.... Well besides when I started the fill process and 1 of the 3 ek res plugs wasn't in and it looked like niagra falls in the case ha ha
Ya, I was thinking the same thing. This week, I'm going to make sure everything is tightened down properly, check it to make sure it's not a huge leak, then fill it up with water and let it go. I've been working on this since before Christmas, on and off. Stupid life getting in my way of my computer habits.
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post #326 of 428
Here is my loop leak tester ... just missing a screw clip thingo ...

LiqAsrt-0074.jpg
post #327 of 428
^Pretty slick



Here is mine. Just missing the NPT - G1/4 adapter at the end. I have a barb and have a dual male barrel fitting so if I really wish to I can use them to fit it into tight to reach places in any system I test. thumb.gif

Apologies for the dim Potato pic. My phone is low on battery atm, so flash was disabled when I went to take this 5 minutes ago. tongue.gif

~Ceadder smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif
 
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post #328 of 428
Thanks for this thread! I've been leak testing with water and a spare PSU but it just didn't feel right to me. I frequently leak test all sorts of piping with air at work, but never thought about doing my own loop. I was able to modify my work testing gauge to work with my loop. I only needed a ½"npt to ⅜" barb fitting, which I found for under 3$.
I about crapped myself when my rads started popping at 10psig but no harm was done.
I did find one leak after I added water though, not sure how the air test didn't pick it up but one of my fittings g¼ threads wasn't tight enough since it was in a difficult spot.
Just a friendly reminder to be cautious, even after air testing!
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post #329 of 428
Quote:
Originally Posted by 0ldChicken View Post

Thanks for this thread! I've been leak testing with water and a spare PSU but it just didn't feel right to me. I frequently leak test all sorts of piping with air at work, but never thought about doing my own loop. I was able to modify my work testing gauge to work with my loop. I only needed a ½"npt to ⅜" barb fitting, which I found for under 3$.
I about crapped myself when my rads started popping at 10psig but no harm was done.
I did find one leak after I added water though, not sure how the air test didn't pick it up but one of my fittings g¼ threads wasn't tight enough since it was in a difficult spot.
Just a friendly reminder to be cautious, even after air testing!

Likely a result of the air popping. You should need no more than 8psi max to air test any water cooling loop. wink.gif

~Ceadder smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif
 
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post #330 of 428
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceadderman View Post

Likely a result of the air popping. You should need no more than 8psi max to air test any water cooling loop. wink.gif

~Ceadder smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif

Its actually due to the expansion of the rad's water channels. Since they are relatively thin they expand slightly and the popping/crinkling sound is due to this and the fins being moved slightly as the fins are attached to the water channels..

10 PSI is very safe - most water blocks and rads are tested to at a minimum of 1 Bar of pressure which is approx 14.5 PSI from factory. Some rad manufacturers use 1.5 bar as a minimum pressure hold test which equates to around 20 PSI.
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