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Acustic Treatment for Audio Enviroments !!!

post #1 of 12
Thread Starter 
Hi OverClockers !!!, i start this thread for give a tips for acústic treatment of your gaming room.
Im a sound technician and study a course of study of Arquitectonic Acústic and enclousure Acústic.

Start with that the fact of have the better audio hardware its no equal to say that u gonna have the better audio experience, if your room its no acustic treated, then dont care if u had a HD Audio hardware, its that simple, and i say for personal experience of being in Recording Studios, that are a big big diference with a room treated and no treated.

Room with acústic treatment have this problems resolved:

1.- Reverberation
2.- Speakers and listening position
3.- Low frequencys resonants modes
4.- High frequency difusion
5.- Absorb First reflections to sweet spot
6.- Audio hardware (its last of list)

With correcting this 6 items u gonna listen how well is your audio hardware, and of course, u gonna be inside of the game with a greater audition sweet spot.

1.- Reverberation

U dont want sound bouncing and bouncing in your room, its like be in a star wars of sound, jeje, u have to add some absorvent materials, like carpets, couchs, heavy Clothing or best, cover 50% of walls with wool of glass or acustic panels with a 5cm thickness.

2.- Speakers and listening position


Picture 1

Speakers have to be in a equilater triangle with audition sweet spot, and away from walls.

3.- Low frequencys resonants modes


Picture 2

Resolve with basstraps, i have a formula for resolve this particular item, u give me yours room dimension in meters (HxWxD) and i calculate for u. (Picture 2)

4.- High frequency difusion

Back wall must have 60%-70% of difussion surface (Picture 2)

5.- Absorb First reflections to sweet spot

Add absorvent panels (100cm x 50cm)in roof and laterals walls in the area that rebouncing to audition sweet spot. (oranges panels in Picture 1)

6.- Audio hardware

Buy a Sound Card thats have HI SNR (Signal to Noise Ratio), and hi-end capasitors.
Buy a speaker system that have a flat responce in all frequencys, more flat more accurate.
Buy good cables (very important to), bad cables generates noise, and others.
Ajust volumen to life volumen like, Enjoy Listening !!!
Edited by Lao Tzu - 1/15/15 at 5:41am
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post #2 of 12
The best way, and what most all professional studios including my own do, instead of throwing band-aid solutions at an existing space, is having the room custom built ffor the purpose, using what's known as a "room within a room" design (essentially a smaller, suspended room inside larger walls, with high end dampening material and air space between sides/ceilings, and a much more complex floor).

At this point, you will want to have a genuine, highly renowned professional design the room layout, because a properly designed room with NO wall treatment will sound significantly better than any "normal" room packed with the stuff, there's no reason not to start with the best possible canvas.
You may benefit from a small amount of wall treatment, and as expensive as the worthwhile stuff is (Dow Corning, very expensive, but unparalleled and I can not recommend that you use anything else), that's a good thing.



Oh, and please... There is NEVER a "big difference" between cables... I have heard many of the hilarious snake oil cables, and IT IS A SCAM... MONOPRICE 12AWG, or if you really need to believe that more expensive cables do something, BJC are the absolute highest cost cables that offer "value". $1-1.75/ft is the absolute max you should ever spend, excluding in-wall cables (25-50pct extra).
I have a lot of equipment, including a significant amount of fairly high end gear (half dozen McIntosh amplifiers, four sets of Sonus Faber speakers (1 set 2twr/1 set 5twr, 2 sets 4 bookshelves each), and so forth)... I use Monoprice wire for them, just as I do in my studio.
   
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post #3 of 12
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by nleksan View Post

The best way, and what most all professional studios including my own do, instead of throwing band-aid solutions at an existing space, is having the room custom built ffor the purpose, using what's known as a "room within a room" design (essentially a smaller, suspended room inside larger walls, with high end dampening material and air space between sides/ceilings, and a much more complex floor).

At this point, you will want to have a genuine, highly renowned professional design the room layout, because a properly designed room with NO wall treatment will sound significantly better than any "normal" room packed with the stuff, there's no reason not to start with the best possible canvas.
You may benefit from a small amount of wall treatment, and as expensive as the worthwhile stuff is (Dow Corning, very expensive, but unparalleled and I can not recommend that you use anything else), that's a good thing.



Oh, and please... There is NEVER a "big difference" between cables... I have heard many of the hilarious snake oil cables, and IT IS A SCAM... MONOPRICE 12AWG, or if you really need to believe that more expensive cables do something, BJC are the absolute highest cost cables that offer "value". $1-1.75/ft is the absolute max you should ever spend, excluding in-wall cables (25-50pct extra).
I have a lot of equipment, including a significant amount of fairly high end gear (half dozen McIntosh amplifiers, four sets of Sonus Faber speakers (1 set 2twr/1 set 5twr, 2 sets 4 bookshelves each), and so forth)... I use Monoprice wire for them, just as I do in my studio.

Hi!!, yes, if u can and have the money u must with dimension of room calculate a good distribution of resonants modes, and yes u have maybe reduce 1 or more walls to the better dimension. All walls in the pictures are of Durlock with wool of glass in middle, then the brick wall, and are calculated the dimension for create box in a box, both, main and control room.

About the cables, personal experience, are bad cables that not have ground, and u listen all class of interferences from PC.

This thread is for help us to take care about sounding in gaming room´s, i know that gamers love graphics more, but sound have equal importance for me, if we can upgrade hardware we can upgrade room, XD, gaming evolved (not a fanboy, like the phrase, xd)!!!
Edited by Lao Tzu - 1/15/15 at 12:37pm
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post #4 of 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by nleksan View Post

The best way, and what most all professional studios including my own do, instead of throwing band-aid solutions at an existing space, is having the room custom built ffor the purpose, using what's known as a "room within a room" design (essentially a smaller, suspended room inside larger walls, with high end dampening material and air space between sides/ceilings, and a much more complex floor).

At this point, you will want to have a genuine, highly renowned professional design the room layout, because a properly designed room with NO wall treatment will sound significantly better than any "normal" room packed with the stuff, there's no reason not to start with the best possible canvas.
You may benefit from a small amount of wall treatment, and as expensive as the worthwhile stuff is (Dow Corning, very expensive, but unparalleled and I can not recommend that you use anything else), that's a good thing.

What's Dow Corning and how much does it cost?

Quote:
Originally Posted by nleksan View Post

Oh, and please... There is NEVER a "big difference" between cables... I have heard many of the hilarious snake oil cables, and IT IS A SCAM... MONOPRICE 12AWG, or if you really need to believe that more expensive cables do something, BJC are the absolute highest cost cables that offer "value". $1-1.75/ft is the absolute max you should ever spend, excluding in-wall cables (25-50pct extra).
I have a lot of equipment, including a significant amount of fairly high end gear (half dozen McIntosh amplifiers, four sets of Sonus Faber speakers (1 set 2twr/1 set 5twr, 2 sets 4 bookshelves each), and so forth)... I use Monoprice wire for them, just as I do in my studio.

Sorry but, it's scientifically proven that Silver cables sound better than Copper cables, it's 2015, don't recommend Copper

I agree that 99% of Cables which you buy in a store looking for profit are a sheer scam and they should be reported or something like that, but pure Silver is the scientific real deal
Edited by Kiriel 7 - 1/15/15 at 12:22pm
post #5 of 12
This video is by a retailer of room treatment products, but it's a good demo of the difference that can be made in a small room by throwing lots and lots of money at the problem by packing it to the gills with treatments (it's better to have the room designed in the first place as nleksan pointed out):

http://realtraps.com/video_hearing.htm

yes, caveats about audio compression, microphone, playing it back on your own system, etc. apply for the last half where they do the untreated vs. treated sound comparisons, but they have the measurements too

For significant but not as great improvements, you can get away with a lot less. But actually bass trapping a small room well is going to cost a lot of money to do properly in the lowest ranges.
post #6 of 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kiriel 7 View Post

What's Dow Corning and how much does it cost?
Sorry but, it's scientifically proven that Silver cables sound better than Copper cables, it's 2015, don't recommend Copper

I agree that 99% of Cables which you buy in a store looking for profit are a sheer scam and they should be reported or something like that, but pure Silver is the scientific real deal

I feel like this needs to be posted. I personally have never seen a scientific study that concludes (or tests for that matter) that Silver sounds better (that is also a very vague statement as well, and would need more defining) but I'm not against the possibility. My understanding has always been similar to that of this article--the quality of the cable and material is more important than the actual material. Also goes into some of the pros and cons of each material.
post #7 of 12
The draw of silver would be slightly higher conductivity than copper (we're talking about 5%), but you could achieve much the same with a slightly shorter or thicker copper cable, at least electronically for signal transmission in the audio frequencies at common power levels and distances in single meters or so.
post #8 of 12
If you increase the diameter of a Copper wire then it will achieve the same net conductivity as Silver, yes

It's not the actual net conductivity itself which makes them sound different though, it just so happens that Sliver has 7% or so more conductivity, like a freeway might let through 7% more traffic

At the exact same diameter, the electrons and phonons have more difficulty in passing through Copper, they get "pushed aside" along the way very often, in comparison to Silver
Edited by Kiriel 7 - 1/15/15 at 10:24pm
post #9 of 12
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kiriel 7 View Post

If you increase the diameter of a Copper wire then it will achieve the same net conductivity as Silver, yes

It's not the actual net conductivity itself which makes them sound different though, it just so happens that Sliver has 7% or so more conductivity, like a freeway might let through 7% more traffic

At the exact same diameter, the electrons and phonons have more difficulty in passing through Copper, they get "pushed aside" along the way very often, in comparison to Silver

Wikipedia

Material Resistivity (nΩ·m) - Density (g/cm3) - Resistivity-density product (nΩ·m·g/cm3) - Resistivity-density relative to copper

Copper 16.78-8.96-150-100%
Silver 15.87-10.49-166-110.66˙%

Silver have less resistivity but more density. better than silver Beryllium, and if want the better use a superconductor cooled with liquid nitrogen.
Edited by Lao Tzu - 1/16/15 at 2:25am
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M-Audio BX5a (2.0 System) AKG K271 MK2 Room with full acustic treatment for reverberat... Reduced low frequencys resonants modes with bas... 
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Back wall with 60% diffusive surface. Audition sweet spot with controled first refle... Speakers are in a equilater triangle with audit... Printer Epson L210 
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PA-MK1
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Rear (exhaust) 120mm Cougar Vortex PWM Front (intake) 140mm Thermaltake Red LED fan Top (exhaust) 200mm Thermaltake fan (800 RPM) Side (intake) 200mm Thermaltake fan (800 RPM) 
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post #10 of 12
A superconductor has zero resistivity, if you put the cable in a circle then the signal continues forever, that is the ultimate audio signal.

It's not the conductivity per width or weight which counts, it's how much of the audio signal (electricity) is conducted versus how much is completely lost or error-coded along it's electrical journey.
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