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edge lighting the XXL window - Page 3

post #21 of 29
Thread Starter 
Would you happen to have any more of that stuff? I made the stupid mistake of trying to use Novus to buff out a scratch and only made things worse. Now I have a hazy spot thats bugging the hell out of me. Made worse by the edge lighting. So I'm leaning toward getting a replacement panel and having it re-etched. If not, would you be able to supply a diagram/template of the drill hole locations for an XXL window? This way I can order a piece cut to size else where and see if they can drill the holes for me. That or if you could secure another panel for me from you supplier so you can make the drill holes I might be open to doing that and paying any extra cost (if its not too high). Tap plastics online is quoting me about 37 for a cast acrylic panel of this size and thickness. I'm just not sure if they can predrill anything for me. If need be I may even try performance pcs to do the drill and etch if they can, and if they have acrylic this thick. If you have the panel thats perfect, just le me know and I'll place an order with note requesting the thicker panel. If not, I'd apreciate any options you can think of. Thanks!
post #22 of 29
Is Novus anything like PolyWatch? That is used to polish acrylic watch faces. If the panel is bugging you already, it may be worth a try.
post #23 of 29
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by DanielCoffey View Post

Is Novus anything like PolyWatch? That is used to polish acrylic watch faces. If the panel is bugging you already, it may be worth a try.

Its probably the same stuff. The thing is, its perfectly fine with the lights off. When you edge light acrylic you see far more imperfections. By using abrasive polish i took a pin hole ding an made it an inch wide scuff mark.
post #24 of 29
Which Novus did you use? It seems they do a 1 (polish), 2 (light scratch) and 3 (deep scratch).
post #25 of 29
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by DanielCoffey View Post

Which Novus did you use? It seems they do a 1 (polish), 2 (light scratch) and 3 (deep scratch).

I have all 3. It was a deep ding, i could pick at it with my finger nail. So I used a bit of 3. Saw the haze so I followed it up with 2 and finished with one. Haze is still there. Again, optically clean when I look straight at it with the lighting off. It only appears with the lighting on. Edge lighting brings out EVERY flaw since the light is now escaping from the micro scratches instead of reflecting within the material. I would probably need to polish and buff the entire surface of the panel but I have neither the expertise nor equipment to ensure a uniform and clear polish. Not using the lighting defeats the whole purpose of a) asking for the thicker panel and b) the money already spent on the Arduino, lights and other things needed to make this all work. It would be far easier to get another clean panel etched and taking steps to ensure I don't scratch things again.
post #26 of 29
Quote:
Originally Posted by devsfan1830 View Post

Would you happen to have any more of that stuff? I made the stupid mistake of trying to use Novus to buff out a scratch and only made things worse. Now I have a hazy spot thats bugging the hell out of me. Made worse by the edge lighting. So I'm leaning toward getting a replacement panel and having it re-etched. If not, would you be able to supply a diagram/template of the drill hole locations for an XXL window? This way I can order a piece cut to size else where and see if they can drill the holes for me. That or if you could secure another panel for me from you supplier so you can make the drill holes I might be open to doing that and paying any extra cost (if its not too high). Tap plastics online is quoting me about 37 for a cast acrylic panel of this size and thickness. I'm just not sure if they can predrill anything for me. If need be I may even try performance pcs to do the drill and etch if they can, and if they have acrylic this thick. If you have the panel thats perfect, just le me know and I'll place an order with note requesting the thicker panel. If not, I'd apreciate any options you can think of. Thanks!

We do have some more pieces. You can just place the order with a regular XXL window and make a note about the thickness. I'll have KC look out for such an order.
post #27 of 29
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin_CL View Post

We do have some more pieces. You can just place the order with a regular XXL window and make a note about the thickness. I'll have KC look out for such an order.

GREAT! You are are the best. Order placed, #12896. Thanks again. Definitely going to INSANELY more careful this time.
post #28 of 29
Thread Starter 
At the risk of tooting my own horn/bumping a dead thread, the re-etched window looks just a good if not slightly better. Went with a better and actually cheaper engraver who managed to not only give me an even etching but also managed to center the logo. The original had a weird line in it where I think they stopped to adjust the depth of the etching mid way. I also realized later that they actually had it shifted off center by about an inch. Last night I was suddenly hit with a realization. If this is a portal mod and, in keeping with the theme, something Aperture Science has built, the mode button press should actually produce the sound found in the game when buttons are hit. SO, I tweaked it:

I also added a few shots of where I stowed the Arduino to run the effects.
post #29 of 29
Quote:
Originally Posted by devsfan1830 View Post

At the risk of tooting my own horn/bumping a dead thread, the re-etched window looks just a good if not slightly better. Went with a better and actually cheaper engraver who managed to not only give me an even etching but also managed to center the logo. The original had a weird line in it where I think they stopped to adjust the depth of the etching mid way. I also realized later that they actually had it shifted off center by about an inch. Last night I was suddenly hit with a realization. If this is a portal mod and, in keeping with the theme, something Aperture Science has built, the mode button press should actually produce the sound found in the game when buttons are hit. SO, I tweaked it:

I also added a few shots of where I stowed the Arduino to run the effects.
Nice! thumb.gif
    
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
5930K Asus Sabertooth X99 EVGA Titan SC EVGA Titan SC 
RAMHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4 DRAM ... Samsung 850 EVO 1TB Panasonic UJ-265 Alphacool ut60 560 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Koolance RP-452X2 Ver 2.0 Watercool HEATKILLER® GPU-X³ GTX TITAN Black/TI... Watercool HEATKILLER® GPU backplate GTX 780-TITAN Watercool GPU-X Dual-Link 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Tygon E-3603 3/8x5/8 (clear) Koolance QD3-MSFG4-P Koolance QD3-FSFG4-P Monsoon Free Center compression fitting 6pack -... 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Aquacomputer Aquaero 6 Pro NF-A14 iPPC-2000 PWM NF-F12 iPPC 2000 PWM  Aquacomputer D5 pump motor with PWM input and s... 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
Windows 7 x64 LG 34UC97 Das Keyboard 4 Professional  evga G2 1300 
CaseAudioOther
CaseLabs TX10 Creative Zx ICYDock ICMB994IPO3B 
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