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Thermaltake Core X Case Owners Club: X1, X2, X9, X9 Snow Ed. - Page 136

post #1351 of 3867
This is literally the perfect case for me. Only reason I bought an Enthoo Primo is to fit two 480 rads. What''s the thickness limit on the top radiator options?
post #1352 of 3867
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jedicake View Post

This is literally the perfect case for me. Only reason I bought an Enthoo Primo is to fit two 480 rads. What''s the thickness limit on the top radiator options?

You can fit an 80mm in the roof with one set of fans and 80mm in the bottom with push pull.
post #1353 of 3867
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sync0r View Post

You can fit an 80mm in the roof with one set of fans and 80mm in the bottom with push pull.

Thank you friend. I gotta get this thing....
post #1354 of 3867
Quote:
Originally Posted by IT Diva View Post

I assembled the 280 rad and painted the 420 to match, . . . .

Now it's just waiting for lots of parts to get here so I can discover my next brilliant idea that doesn't work for squat challenge, and find the solution, that I would have seen hours before, if I wasn't having a blond moment.





By the time my PPCs orders come in, the paint should be completely dry and the rad ready to handle.

Because of the high humidity here, I learned to give painted parts the better part of a week to fully set.




Darlene

I did a step by step pic sequence of the stacked fan mod if anyone's interested.

Darlene

I would be interested in the step by step pic sequence.
Heck, I am interested in everything you are doing
What was the brilliant idea that did not work...are the fittings too high on the 280
Dan
post #1355 of 3867
Quote:
Originally Posted by IT Diva View Post

Like most people who do a lot of general shop work, I have an air compressor to use for supply air . . . .

I have a secondary regulator, the one in the pic in that fill thread, that has QD's so I can use it on the fill kit, or alternately, on my air leak-test kit. (pics below)

It's a low pressure, 0 to 25 psi reg from McMaster (stock number 6746K32 . . . less than $30)

You WILL have to be able to vent the top of the res as you fill, . . . .

And with rads in the top, it is a pretty tight space above the midplate . . . . which limits your res tube height.

One option might be to have the res tube come up thru the midplate . . . .

Use a sectioned midplate with a scarfed divide line at the center of the res tube and a semi circular cutout in each section so you can access the pump and connections, then put the plate pieces in place.

For my build, I'm looking to create something unique that runs horizontally, side to side, on the midplate . . . . But I need to get a midplate in first, and then I can go from there.


Darlene


Here's my air testing kit, testing the mobo/GPUs module of my Tropical Frost build.

I like to build modularly and test each module, then test again once the modules are connected together as a whole . . . if each module was fine, but there's a leak as a whole, then first place to look is the interconnections.



Testing the pumps/plate exchangers module:



And testing the whole:


the final picture "testing the whole
Quote:
Originally Posted by inedenimadam View Post

Hey Dan,
I thought I would mirror this:
The vardars are top notch fans, I have them on my rads as well. Great performance, almost no variation in sound signature, quiet, and not bad to look at either. A bit on the expensive side, but you get what you pay for. Unless you can find a stack of NIB AP-15s, I couldnt suggest a better fan.

thanks, it is a relief to finally lock down something.
Dan
post #1356 of 3867
I had wanted LED fans, but since I seem to be going with a non led fan (EK Vadar)
What or how to use LED strips or lights to give some soft illumination to the case
I have a white mid plate that might transmit a glow from underneath, have to check on how transmissive it is

Just never used any LED lighting. Will incorporate control of them into the Aquaero 6 somehow. I does that I read. on the list of things to learn

dan
post #1357 of 3867
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by DanBr View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Quote:
Originally Posted by IT Diva View Post

I assembled the 280 rad and painted the 420 to match, . . . .

Now it's just waiting for lots of parts to get here so I can discover my next brilliant idea that doesn't work for squat challenge, and find the solution, that I would have seen hours before, if I wasn't having a blond moment.





By the time my PPCs orders come in, the paint should be completely dry and the rad ready to handle.

Because of the high humidity here, I learned to give painted parts the better part of a week to fully set.




Darlene

I did a step by step pic sequence of the stacked fan mod if anyone's interested.

Darlene
I would be interested in the step by step pic sequence.
Heck, I am interested in everything you are doing
What was the brilliant idea that did not work...are the fittings too high on the 280
Dan


Now that I've had a good night's sleep and my morning coffee, the brilliant ideas that were squat were;

1) Trying to use the 280 that I had on hand so I didn't have to buy yet another rad, . . . (I've since concluded that trying to make this a cost conscious project will just make it a looks like kaka project . . . . and

2) Forgetting that the rads in the bottom can mount to the bottom and pull air up thru the bottom . . . .

I was thinking about slotting the lower front area of the window so the 240 could get fresh air, then fortunately for me, cgull snapped me out of my Blond Moment and saved me from going out to buy a router table. . . . though I will miss having to go out and buy a new tool

I like the aesthetic of seeing the rads from the side, but flipping the 240 to the bottom is a lot easier than slotting the window.

I'll have to have a look, once the new 480 gets here, about whether to keep it on edge which will make setting up a drain easier, or putting it on the bottom to match the 240 . . . . .

I already ordered a white HWL Nemesis GTS 420 this morning to replace the 280 up top . . . the GTS series is just over 30mm thick, so I'll have clearance over the GPUs with the thinner rad, but maintain the aesthetic of symmetrical 420's. . . . even went with Express Mail shipping so it gets here about the time everything else does before next weekend.

The 280 just looked buttfugginugly once I had a chance to really think about it. . . . . The thin 420 is going to look soooo much better.

Time to see what I have to make a PSU cover with . . .


Darlene
post #1358 of 3867
Can you confirm that the 200mm front fan blows TOWARD the side with the label, so if the label is on the inside of the case, then the fan will be intake. I don't have anything to easily test it, there are no arrows or makings I can find and this mod I am doing I have to know which way the wind blows (old Dylan song)

I will explain if it works and pretend like I don't know what you are talking about if it does not
Dan
Edited by DanBr - 7/4/15 at 9:21am
post #1359 of 3867
If you see the plastic "arms" holding the outer housing of the fan to the motor, this is considered the rear of most fans. So this is where the air exits the fan. Its hard to say the "sticker" side since fans can have stickers on both sides.



edit:

here's another fan for illustration purposes:

post #1360 of 3867
Quote:
Originally Posted by wermad View Post

If you see the plastic "arms" holding the outer housing of the fan to the motor, this is considered the rear of most fans. So this is where the air exits the fan. Its hard to say the "sticker" side since fans can have stickers on both sides.



edit:

here's another fan for illustration purposes:


got it, so if the arms are toward the inside of the case the fan will be an intake fan.

Now can I change the fan direction by reversing the red and black wire

Dan
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