Originally Posted by NikolayNeykov
I have like 71-72 degree C with auto fan on wicher 3 atm, but if i put it in manual it gets 60-69 max so was wondering how much the temp will increase.
Is there any thread to show how to flash the bios step by step so i don't do something wrong, i downloaded the x64 nvflash from the other topic and putted the 2 files in a folder with the modded bios for G1
thanks for the help really, greatly appreciated.
Don't know but maybe worth mentioning my important parts of the pc:
MB: GA-Z170X-Gaming 7
Ram: 2x8 Gb Hyper X
CPU: I7 6700k
PSU 700 Aurum S
Here are custom instructions for you
(1) Make sure O/C programs are not set to APPLY SETTING AT STARTUP - Turn that OFF and RESET your overclock back to defaults (reset button in MSI AB).
(2) Make sure all programs that monitor and/or communicate with the GPU are shut down
(3) Download JoeDirt's NVFLASH
with certificate bypass.
(4) Make sure that the nvflsh64.sys file is also in the same folder as your .ROM and NVFLASH.exe
(5) Open a COMMAND PROMPT as administrator
. Change (CD) into your directory (folder path) where you put NVFLASH and .ROM
NVFLASH -6 v4betaf4_dp.ROM
(7) You WILL get a warning of "PCI subsystem ID mismatch"
, this is EXPECTE
D and perfectly normal. Answer YONLY
If you have more than ONE GPU to flash, you CAN flash them both at the same time (just one at a time) without rebooting.
usually first GPU is 0, second is 1
NVFLASH -i0 -6 nameofrom.ROM
NVFLASH -i1 -6 nameofrom.ROM
(8) After flashing is complete immediately reboot.
You now have a modded G1 with a WF3 cooler instead of a WF3OC. Slap a water block on top and it will be IDENTICAL to a G1
The perfect solution for someone wanting to water cool a GPU. Just get a EKWB and connect it up
Originally Posted by DeathAngel74
I ran the chip stock for almost a year. It actually overclocks like a champ without extra voltage. Runs 4.7 @ 1.190v, stock 4.0/4.4 turbo had 1.209v set automatically by the bios. When I can afford a custom loop, I'll shoot for 5GHz again!
Originally Posted by Owhora
I bought two cards, G1 and Xtreme because I am curious to see which one is better. HOWEVER, I somehow got the literally golden chips!
G1 - ASIC 81.9% (!!!)
Stock Bio: Stable - 1552/7012 or 1519/8002, power limit: 100%, zero vcore, auto fan, 68°C.
Modded Bio (V4): Stable - 1539/8002, power limit: 100%, zero vcore, auto fan, 67°C.
Xtreme - ASIC 78.8%
Stock bio: Stable - 1580/8022, power limit: 100%, zero vcore, auto fan, around 59°C
Modded bio: Stable - 1595/8011, power limit: 100%, zero vcore, auto fan, around 55°C ---- Almost 1600 MHZ!!!!
It looks like that I will keep Xtreme one and return G1 this Friday. (unless you want this perfect G1, please pm me.
Laithan, thank you for those amazing modded bios!
PS: How can I post images here?
Thanks for the feedback!
You may want to check to see what the max overclocks are with BOTH the power% and voltage sliders MAXXED OUT. Anything less is actually holding voltage and power back which are BOTH responsible for higher overclocks.
Oh for a pic, just look at the top of the editing window there are some small icons. One of them is to insert an image into your post.
Originally Posted by minsekt
yeah im happy with it, ram CR could be CR1 but i dont feel the need to tweak ram right now, its so time consuming.
but ive got a question for the topic,
im running the waterforce extreme bios on my msi 980TI 6g gamimg right now and can hit 1580 stable with +350 on memory (im testing with final fantasy benchmark 4k) the highest temps ive ever got was 55c (custom loop) i kinda want to get 1600 just for having it but would increasing the bios voltage help? or is there a cap at 1.281/7v? whats even considered "safe" ? i beleive theres a titan x bios with 1.310v or more. would be 1.3v safe? temps arent capping me at all id say.
btw what nvidia driver are you using? i feel like the last one was more stable than the newest one.
thanks in advance
Did I read that right?? You flashed the Gigabyte Ti extreme BIOS to an MSI 6G card?You are lucky you didn't brick your GPU!Just to help clarify:
* REFERENCE GPUs can usually share BIOS' because they are all the same PCB design.
* CUSTOM PCBs should ALWAYS
use the BIOS that was designed for that PCB.
One of the problems is that others on the interweb use the word "Reference BIOS" for a "MODIFIED BIOS" and this causes confusion. What they REALLY MEAN is "this BIOS can be used as a REFERENCE to modify YOUR BIOS". You would take YOUR BIOS and open it up side by side with the BIOS you are "copying from (using as a reference)" and configure all the settings to match the MOD BIOS. You would then have YOUR BIOS with the tweaks provided.
Please clarify if that is what you did and if so I can help get the correct BIOS for your card. It obviously works but it wouldn't be technically correct and there is some risk running a BIOS that was intended for someone else's custom PCB design (possibly overheating or sending wrong memory voltages, things like that). It is literally like taking a car's computer from a FORD and installing it in a CHEVROLET.. it may start up and drive if lucky but it wouldn't "be right".
Voltage, GM200 (980Ti) on AIR does NOT like high voltage. You would just be increasing temps even more. 1.3v on GM200 is not even needed on H2O and certainly not AIR. I wouldn't "go there", that's asking to kill your GPU/VRMs.
Originally Posted by 0xzz
why did you not increase power limit and vcore on your modded bios with something like MSI afterburner??
thats how it works
Originally Posted by djchup
GM200.zip 152k .zip file
Well after months of buying parts I was finally able to power on my new machine last night. My card is a non-G1 980ti (GV-N98TWF3OC-6GD) with an EK full cover block and 76.8 ASIC (which i'm told isn't important). I didn't have time for much tinkering after installing windows last night, but I will after work today. I downloaded the bios from my card this morning. I'm *pretty sure* that I'm using DP bios from the information I've gathered from reading this thread. Could use some guidance in deciding what BIOS I should try using. I'd like to try pushing my card as hard as I can, I should have a good bit of thermal headroom (overkill radiator setup).
EDIT: it looks like since my bios is FA0 I'll have to copy over settings from the BIOS's in the OP to my BIOS? (i havent seen FA0 mentioned anywhere at all so maybe this version is referred to as a different name or it's just not as common as the F1/F3/F4 bios versions I see mentioned here)
bonus grainy cellphone pic of my new rig (i'll take better pics once I clean up the wiring)
Grainy Cellphone Pic (Click to show)
Very nice but ya grainy pic
You must be psyched!
We are doing this right now for 2 others, you can turn that into a G1 and it will be IDENTICAL to a G1 since you have removed the cooler and are using a water block.
The only real way to GUARANTEE if you need DP or DD BIOS is to extract it and take a look (which I will do for you). If you want to read up about it there is a section in the min-KB of the OP that explains it all (more than you want to know
BIOS FA0 is indeed a new one. Will be interested to see it. YES you are using the DP BIOS
with your current monitor configuration.
Doesn't matter though we can just unlocked the sliders in this new FA0 BIOS and copy all the settings over
This is the H2O BIOS you will want to copy the settings from. The one that you used is the AIR BIOS.
Originally Posted by djchup
Nope, and you're right i screwed up the voltages. Redoing it now with the hidden sliders unlocked.
EDIT: finished copying the values over from V4BETAF4 BIOS onto my BIOS; This time with hidden voltage sliders unlocked. Thanks for the tip 0xzz my voltage table was all sorts of messed up. Still hoping for someone to reassure me that this thing is safe to flash onto my card. Attaching both my original BIOS and the one I modified. I triple checked and all values are the same as far as I can tell (apart from the extra hidden voltage slider I had that isnt in the V4BETAF4 Bios, I didn't modify its value)
GM200_original_and_edited_djchup.zip 304k .zip file
I checked, you did it correctly just with the AIR BIOS instead of the H2O one.
With a water block installed you will want the H2O BIOS