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post #16241 of 18201
If you are talking temps you need to provide info about ambient room temp as well. T-delta (the difference between ambient and your sensor temp) is what counts. Also, when you measure temps are you letting the system run until the water temp stabilises?

Example - under full load my GPU measures 52C, with a water temp of 35C, and ambient room temp 32C.

For my GPU & CPU loop, I have a delta-T of 3C.

I use a phobia 1080 Rad and a 140.2 rad with 4x 180mm fans in a rad box (see here: https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipPMRFFCEskkqx0UNxlrQropAl0R-VnrW0Xfcb5TFMo3YhlaPify_3gBoeGHsZFhkQ?key=MDdNNzlDd2s3a2Y3ZzBKNndPcGpTX0RTT1RBNzZR)


Second point is airflow. How much noise can you tolerate and how much airflow are you achieving?
Third: water pressure and flow rate. There is a critical point where higher flow yields less return once water temp stabilises. On the flow/temp curve you want to have your pump set to give optimal heat transfer (usually balanced against noise or cavitation issues).


It may be that your system is doing very well already but you have a few variables to look at smile.gif

If you know all this I apologise.... not trying to tell you to suck eggs tongue.gif
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post #16242 of 18201
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sheyster View Post

Probably a single used 970 or 980, until new cards are out. redface.gif Not gaming too much these days...

You should be fine with onboard GPU then biggrin.gif
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post #16243 of 18201
I've been testing the OC potential of my T-X with Vcore of 1261mV.

FS Extreme score 9185.

Highest stable OC looping FS is 1552MHz (+540)
@118% power limit shows 70% TDP at 99% GPU load.
Stable temp 50~52C.

I'll do more testing in games and my normal workload and see if it sits steady in this range.

Have noticed that if the OC fails and the GPU driver resets the boost will not function normally until a hard reset is performed. I don't recall if this issue existed with older drivers.
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post #16244 of 18201
Im after a little advice on my setup as i am no expert

im running a water cooling loop with 5820k cpu and titan x gpu.

Loop consists of a 750lph pump/ res combi with 3/8 piping running to the gpu with ek water block and backplate then from the gpu to a 240mm front mounted rad with 4x 120mm sp fans in push pull from there it runs to the cpu with ek block then to a top mounted 240mm rad with 4x 120mm sp fans in push pull then in runs to a 3rd bottom mounted 240mm rad with 4x 120mm sp fans in push pull and then back to the pump.

All fans are set at lowest rpm settings so the system is very quiet despite having 13 120mm fans, all rad fans are set to bring air in from the outside and then exhaust out the back

temp wise i get 45c on full load at stock and 59c on full load using the 1500mhz bios from here, room temp is about 20 - 22c

Just want some general advice really is my loop set up right, are these temps good or bad, can i get lower by changing a few things ect

I have been thinking of adding a second pump after the gpu block cpu block and first rad to keep the flow going is this a good idea or bad idea?

Thank you for any advice in advance
post #16245 of 18201
Quote:
Originally Posted by mgrobins View Post

If you are talking temps you need to provide info about ambient room temp as well. T-delta (the difference between ambient and your sensor temp) is what counts. Also, when you measure temps are you letting the system run until the water temp stabilises?

Example - under full load my GPU measures 52C, with a water temp of 35C, and ambient room temp 32C.

For my GPU & CPU loop, I have a delta-T of 3C.

I use a phobia 1080 Rad and a 140.2 rad with 4x 180mm fans in a rad box (see here: https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipPMRFFCEskkqx0UNxlrQropAl0R-VnrW0Xfcb5TFMo3YhlaPify_3gBoeGHsZFhkQ?key=MDdNNzlDd2s3a2Y3ZzBKNndPcGpTX0RTT1RBNzZR)


Second point is airflow. How much noise can you tolerate and how much airflow are you achieving?
Third: water pressure and flow rate. There is a critical point where higher flow yields less return once water temp stabilises. On the flow/temp curve you want to have your pump set to give optimal heat transfer (usually balanced against noise or cavitation issues).


It may be that your system is doing very well already but you have a few variables to look at smile.gif

If you know all this I apologise.... not trying to tell you to suck eggs tongue.gif

Get rid of the 4 180mm fans (Guessing you are running Silverstone AP182 fans since those are the only 180mm fans worth a hoot) and get 9 GT15's. I was running 2 of those phobya 1080 rads, both with the silverstone AP182 fans. Swapped one set out for 9 GT15's and not only did it provide just as good of cooling (tested them both individually), the volume was much lower as well.

Thing is those phobya rads are fairly slim so the added oomph you can get out of the AP182's when you crank them up to Jet Engine isn't giving you any better performance. Once I get another desk build together I don't intend to ever look to 180mm fans ever again.
post #16246 of 18201
Quote:
Originally Posted by DNMock View Post

Get rid of the 4 180mm fans (Guessing you are running Silverstone AP182 fans since those are the only 180mm fans worth a hoot) and get 9 GT15's. I was running 2 of those phobya 1080 rads, both with the silverstone AP182 fans. Swapped one set out for 9 GT15's and not only did it provide just as good of cooling (tested them both individually), the volume was much lower as well.

Thing is those phobya rads are fairly slim so the added oomph you can get out of the AP182's when you crank them up to Jet Engine isn't giving you any better performance. Once I get another desk build together I don't intend to ever look to 180mm fans ever again.


Do you mean this fan? http://www.amazon.com/Nidec-Gentle-Typhoon-D1225C12B5AP-Silent/dp/B001Q6RUVO

Trying to find the model you suggest (I'm in Australia no the US).


I agree when the 180mm fans are fixed to a rad that their static pressure is garbage - especially the EK ones (or excessive on a thin rad with the silverstones).
The silverstones are 'ok' with a rad box like mine as the turbulence is not a factor They pressurise the box cavity and exhaust out of both radiators. They are however only reasonably quiet. They are harder to spin up than 120mm fans which means I have to run them harder - and that is a negative to using them.

I previously ran 120mm x9 (noctua fans, also some dodgy CM fans .... haven't used the Gentle Typhoon) but the noise was annoying (more pitch than volume). I'll check out the fans you suggest though as a changeover is as easy as bolting on the 9x120mm template I already have to fit my rad box.

One of the issues anyone needs to consider with fans for a quiet setup where they are not run by an intelligent controller or mb is the duty cycle of the fan. Some require a lot of voltage to get them spinning which means your "minimum" on the fan controller is still quite high.

I have fans that can be reduced to run at a very low level but need 2x the initial voltage to spin up c/f other 'noisier' fans.... making the noisy fan the better choice in my setup.

If I had a fan controller that started at max and then dropped to a preset low voltage I'd have many better fan choices smile.gif.

How low a voltage do the GT's require do you know? Are they really easy to drive?



Deanstead - what pump are you using at the moment? A second pump in a single loop is not likely required for what you are running. You don't have a lot of high resistance blocks and rads don't increase loop resistance a lot. Also, with it all being in one case the head pressure on the pump should be fairly low.

Also, a 2nd pump as redundancy is not always great in series as some pumps when they break have exceptionally high resistance to flow. If you were dead set on having 2 pumps with those rads you could consider 2 loops.

By example, My D5 Laing pump ran at 40% power setting to achieve optimum flow in a setup using 2 large rads, 2x MB blocks, 2x GPU blocks, CPU, res, filter/flow monitor (these can be very restrictive).


I haven't bothered doing the calculations for flow rate, heat dissipation etc with different setups for over a year.... there are a bunch of good threads on all of this at OCAU though in the extreme cooling forum (overclockers Australia).
Edited by mgrobins - 1/29/16 at 7:10pm
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post #16247 of 18201
Quote:
Originally Posted by mgrobins View Post

Do you mean this fan? http://www.amazon.com/Nidec-Gentle-Typhoon-D1225C12B5AP-Silent/dp/B001Q6RUVO

Trying to find the model you suggest (I'm in Australia no the US).


I agree when the 180mm fans are fixed to a rad that their static pressure is garbage - especially the EK ones (or excessive on a thin rad with the silverstones).
The silverstones are 'ok' with a rad box like mine as the turbulence is not a factor They pressurise the box cavity and exhaust out of both radiators. They are however only reasonably quiet. They are harder to spin up than 120mm fans which means I have to run them harder - and that is a negative to using them.

I previously ran 120mm x9 (noctua fans, also some dodgy CM fans .... haven't used the Gentle Typhoon) but the noise was annoying (more pitch than volume). I'll check out the fans you suggest though as a changeover is as easy as bolting on the 9x120mm template I already have to fit my rad box.

One of the issues anyone needs to consider with fans for a quiet setup where they are not run by an intelligent controller or mb is the duty cycle of the fan. Some require a lot of voltage to get them spinning which means your "minimum" on the fan controller is still quite high.

I have fans that can be reduced to run at a very low level but need 2x the initial voltage to spin up c/f other 'noisier' fans.... making the noisy fan the better choice in my setup.

If I had a fan controller that started at max and then dropped to a preset low voltage I'd have many better fan choices smile.gif.

How low a voltage do the GT's require do you know? Are they really easy to drive?



Deanstead - what pump are you using at the moment? A second pump in a single loop is not likely required for what you are running. You don't have a lot of high resistance blocks and rads don't increase loop resistance a lot. Also, with it all being in one case the head pressure on the pump should be fairly low.

Also, a 2nd pump as redundancy is not always great in series as some pumps when they break have exceptionally high resistance to flow. If you were dead set on having 2 pumps with those rads you could consider 2 loops.

By example, My D5 Laing pump ran at 40% power setting to achieve optimum flow in a setup using 2 large rads, 2x MB blocks, 2x GPU blocks, CPU, res, filter/flow monitor (these can be very restrictive).


I haven't bothered doing the calculations for flow rate, heat dissipation etc with different setups for over a year.... there are a bunch of good threads on all of this at OCAU though in the extreme cooling forum (overclockers Australia).

Yeah those are what I swapped to. Being in Australia is problematic though, as I would bet shipping prices would be off the charts. Better option may be going with EK-Vardar fans direct from EK. They are comparable to the GT15 (nidec-servo) and as an added bonus are PWM, while the GT15's are only 3 pin. Personally, I like the GT15's a bit more, but it's not by much.

If memory serves they kick on at 5 volts.

It's such a shame that there aren't any worthwhile 180mm fans out there. I tried the AP181, AP182, Phobya silent 180mm, and the EK 180mm fans and the Silverstone variants were the only ones that seemed worthwhile and both the 181 and 182 lack any type of smart modulation and were only able to be controlled through the manual controllers that come pre-installed on them.


P.S. I noticed you said something about CFM on those Noctua fans. CFM while nice, isn't nearly as important as Static Pressure in a set up like yours. Static pressure is the measure of how much air the fan can cram in there, resulting in higher positive pressure, and better cooling. CFM means jack squat if it can't maintain a decent amount of pressure in the box. Using fans with high CFM and low static pressure to do what you are going for is like trying to use a ceiling fan to fill your air compressor, completely worthless.
Edited by DNMock - 1/29/16 at 8:30pm
post #16248 of 18201
Cheers for the info.

"CM" not CFM tongue.gif .... Coolermaster fans. Cheap, functional, effective airflow for the $ and noisy!

I prob wasn't clear - the fans I am using are designed for decent static pressure and work well in an area with good clearance (I.e. not mounted on the rad itself). I'm still interested in revisiting 120mm setup again (I agree the 180mm variants don't offer a lot) if it's quieter. Being quite an open and low resistacne design the phobia 1080 wouldn't be too demanding of fans I suspect. That's not really my area of engineering expertise though biggrin.gif

I need 3 pin fans too that are manageable through DC regulation not PWM. A quick scan of stores here show the EK varder you mention but not any GT fans (maybe they aren't the goto fan anymore? - they used to be really popular).

Any changes I make are just tweaking - a quieter and perhaps slightly more effective setup. It's already exceeding the needs of my current rig.
Edited by mgrobins - 1/29/16 at 8:55pm
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post #16249 of 18201
I really really want a second Titan but with pascal around the corner I am not sure what to do. I know that I will not be able to sell it here, people in Taiwan are cheap when it comes to used parts, they might offer me 300$ ;,(
post #16250 of 18201
Now is not the time to be buying Titan X cards unless you are absolutely sure that it is all the power you want for a few years. We're firmly in the "wait for Pascal" territory for new buyers.
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