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[Official] nVIDIA GeForce GTX TITAN X Owners Club - Page 791

post #7901 of 18191
Quote:
Originally Posted by Klunt Bumskrint View Post

Poor baby.
Mine are 63 and 59. Both Evga sc

There goes my SC argument biggrin.gif
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post #7902 of 18191
Quote:
Originally Posted by deadwidesmile View Post

I'm still terrified I didn't put my backplate on 100% correct.
it a heatsink, not a cooler. if the backplate does not get hot - as much as 50C during a Heaven 4.0 run (no fan) it's probably not working as intended IMO. with a fan shedding some heat from it it will keep the memory modules cool-er (vrms are on the front of the pcb, so not in that thermal image) it does help with temps overall.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SteezyTN View Post

So I'm a little angry...
TX1- ASIC Score of 73.2% (SC
TX2- ASIC Score of 63.6% (nonSC)
not bad - 74 and 64% here. But ASIC means very little in terms of overclock performance IMO
Quote:
Originally Posted by G227 View Post

So – more ASIC talk smile.gif From my perspective, higher ASIC meant directly higher OC capability. Here is how I see it - please let me know where I am wrong smile.gif.

First some numbers. At SC425 BIOS my 63.6% ASIC (EVGA nonSC) card got up to 1396MHz/8GHz stable at max + volts @ 1.204V (it throttled a bit so at 1.237 it would have been maybe 1414MHz - but I couldn't test stability of that since I was on stock cooler), while my second 69.6% ASIC (EVGA SC) got to 1400MHz on stock volts and with max +volts on the same bios @1.237V it went up to 1455Mhz/8GHz. Even assuming the other card could be stable @1414Mhz thats still ~40 additional MHz.

Now the theory - I have heard people here say that it doesn’t matter because for lower ASIC cards you can just put more voltage through to get higher overclocks (if I understand it correctly) – but, from my perspective, we are all hardware limited the same way so that's not valid. In other words, we can all put max certain voltage (1.274?) ATM. So while I could put higher voltage BIOS on the first lower-asic card to get higher OC, I could do the same with the other card. Thus the difference of 40Mhz would still be there.

So my questions:

1) Is my rationale correct? I.e. lower ASIC cards could get higher OC with more volts, but since both cards can get only up to a certain hardware limited number the higher ASIC card should generally OC higher?
2) To illustrate - what OC are you getting with what ASIC? Particularly if you have sub 70% ASIC cards. Do your higher ASIC cards get higher?
3) If you have EVGA cards, what ASIC did you get on what version? The idea here is that the SC version generally has higher ASIC (mine was higher 69.6 vs 63.6 and somebody just mentioned the same here). If thats true and granted higher ASIC would correlate to higher OC, then the SC version would make sense (if you care about higher OC) or just go with other brand as there you could get the entire range as cards are not distributed (if you don't care about EVGA warranty).

Lastly - before you all say it - I know that +40MHz is tiny difference in actual performance smile.gif - this is more of a theoretical question

1) partially. the additional leakage with low AISC will cause the core to run hotter (current leaks, voltage is a potential, and does no "work") so that's usually why a low asic card can't OC higher... until you take heat out of the equation.
2) my low ASIC card runs very close to it's partner... and actually can clock memory much higher. 1542-1558 is the higherst I can really run on either card with any level of stability. BF4 in SLI at 4K is 1500.
3) don't have evga
Quote:
Originally Posted by G227 View Post

How do you cool your VRMs and what speed do you run them? When I was running +500MHz on them @8GHz I was getting crashes as well - only now I realize it was because of them. Since I toned down the OC to +300MHz I'm stable. I have posted a few pages back a picture with VRMs on stock card getting to 102C on stock volts/clocks. I know you said you are cooling them well, but try disabling/lowering your memory OC and see if that solves it
Works just fine here. Try running other games to see if it works there - beyond that, I don't know smile.gif

the Voltage Reg Modules supply power to the memory. they are not shown in that thermal image
Edited by Jpmboy - 5/20/15 at 11:00am
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post #7903 of 18191
Hey titan-x owners, go grab your free copy of witcher 3!
http://www.overclock.net/t/1556522/geforce-com-witcher-3-free-to-titan-x-owners

Mine comes this saturday! Titan-X superclocked! WOOHOO!
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post #7904 of 18191
Quote:
Originally Posted by Black Magix View Post

Hey titan-x owners, go grab your free copy of witcher 3!
http://www.overclock.net/t/1556522/geforce-com-witcher-3-free-to-titan-x-owners

Mine comes this saturday! Titan-X superclocked! WOOHOO!

might want to read back a day... thumb.gif
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post #7905 of 18191
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jpmboy View Post

might want to read back a day... thumb.gif


1 day is 128 posts and 13 pages of content.....
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post #7906 of 18191
My Titan X cards are ASIC 75.3% and 75.6% and the best I can do at 1.274v is 1481/4025 for 24/7 stability.
post #7907 of 18191
What happens if the vram overheats? Do you get a lockup,artifacts or what?
just curious
post #7908 of 18191
Quote:
Originally Posted by John Shepard View Post

What happens if the vram overheats? Do you get a lockup,artifacts or what?
just curious

Depends how "too far" you push it. Generally you might get artifacts or you screen might completely freeze requiring a hard restart. That is the main difference between it and OCing your core too much. When you OC core too much your driver generally crashes and the card resets - but often you don't need to restart. This video is not great, but explains the issue: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=85sox46roxM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxxamillion View Post

My Titan X cards are ASIC 75.3% and 75.6% and the best I can do at 1.274v is 1481/4025 for 24/7 stability.

Thanks for input! I assume that's Cyclops BIOS?
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post #7909 of 18191
Hi everybody, I am trying to remove the stock cooler prior to installing the water block but I have hit a snag. I have removed the 20 screws and overcome the slight stickiness of the thermal compound but the card appears to be stuck at the IO end. I can't lift it straight up or slide it out. What should I do ?
post #7910 of 18191
Quote:
Originally Posted by PinzaC55 View Post

Hi everybody, I am trying to remove the stock cooler prior to installing the water block but I have hit a snag. I have removed the 20 screws and overcome the slight stickiness of the thermal compound but the card appears to be stuck at the IO end. I can't lift it straight up or slide it out. What should I do ?
There is two more screws that connect the fan/heat sink at the side where the I/O is.
    
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