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post #8401 of 18242
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iNen1 View Post

If you're talking about the CPU block, it's a Phobya one. UC-2 copper, if i recall correctly. I didn't take it apart anyways, i installed it exactly how i took it out of the packaging. I must've ****ed up somewhere, that's for certain.

I'd bleed your loop and ensure proper contact between blocks and gpu/cpu, the only two things i'd imagine it would be (as previously mentioned are poor/non flow rate or bad/missing contact of blocks and cards/cpu.
Quote:
Originally Posted by iNen1 View Post

This is brilliant advice, thank you for taking time to write all of this.

It seems like i won't get around the fact that i will have to drain my loop. This being my first loop and all, i didn't really plan things out correctly, so i have no drain pipe/tube or any system for that matter.

Unless i can install the flowmeter and temp sensor without draining my loop?

I highly doubt it would be possible and it's not worth the risk, just have plenty of paper towel available and you should be fine.
Edited by Nytestryke - 5/25/15 at 3:34pm
post #8402 of 18242
Quote:
Originally Posted by iNen1 View Post

This is brilliant advice, thank you for taking time to write all of this.

It seems like i won't get around the fact that i will have to drain my loop. This being my first loop and all, i didn't really plan things out correctly, so i have no drain pipe/tube or any system for that matter.

Unless i can install the flowmeter and temp sensor without draining my loop?

Sucks man I know it but draning it and checking it will be the only way to really know. Computer looks good though(some of us still dont mind the flashy looks, I went with green with blacklights in my first watercooled build many years ago.)
post #8403 of 18242
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nytestryke View Post

thumb.gif
I'd bleed your loop and ensure proper contact between blocks and gpu/cpu, the only two things i'd imagine it would be (as previously mentioned are poor/non flow rate or bad/missing contact of blocks and cards/cpu.
I highly doubt it would be possible and it's not worth the risk, just have plenty of paper towel available and you should be fine.

Alright, sounds like a plan. Will get a temp sensor, as well as a flow meter. Will drain it next weekend and see where it goes. I'll keep you guys updated, you've been an immense help
Quote:
Originally Posted by doogk View Post

Sucks man I know it but draning it and checking it will be the only way to really know. Computer looks good though(some of us still dont mind the flashy looks, I went with green with blacklights in my first watercooled build many years ago.)

Yeah, you're right. It was just so very difficult to put together for me, so now i feel bad for having to take it apart again rolleyes.gif, oh well. Also thanks, i'm a sucker for flashy looks, so i'm glad that someone here likes it as well.thumb.gif
post #8404 of 18242
Quote:
Originally Posted by szeged View Post

edited it into the OP for you thumb.gif
THanks bud!
Quote:
Originally Posted by iNen1 View Post

Alright, sounds like a plan. Will get a temp sensor, as well as a flow meter. Will drain it next weekend and see where it goes. I'll keep you guys updated, you've been an immense help
Yeah, you're right. It was just so very difficult to put together for me, so now i feel bad for having to take it apart again rolleyes.gif, oh well. Also thanks, i'm a sucker for flashy looks, so i'm glad that someone here likes it as well.thumb.gif
Getting at least one in-line coolant temp sensor is highly recommended. I use two: cold side and hot side + air in and air out temps sensors on the rads.
Also - I know if one member who recently had a very similar experience with the R5E monoblock.. cpu temps where 80C and higher, idle was high too. Turns out he left the "Remove before Mounting" label on the block for the CPU IHS... yesh, it happens in all the excitement of assembly. smile.gif

If it's possible, double check your cpu block mount (and do not over tighten the mount!) before tearing down the entire rig.
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post #8405 of 18242
iNen1 seems like you have a plan now - its going to be interesting to hear what fixes your issue.

When you do your draining and repiping with flow / temp meters (get a drain port too) i would recommend you also straighten that bottom gpu piping , it looks bent coming into the compression fitting . Thats 1/2 " piping you have there and it can get heavy once filled with liquid so you want all of the barb and compression fitting over that pipe.

You are looks fella so i won't try and convince you to not use compression fittings with 1/2 " pipe but just be cautious and make sure the joints have no pressure on them - eg piping is straight coming into the compression fittings and not under any sideways pressure.
post #8406 of 18242
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jpmboy View Post

THanks bud!
Getting at least one in-line coolant temp sensor is highly recommended. I use two: cold side and hot side + air in and air out temps sensors on the rads.
Also - I know if one member who recently had a very similar experience with the R5E monoblock.. cpu temps where 80C and higher, idle was high too. Turns out he left the "Remove before Mounting" label on the block for the CPU IHS... yesh, it happens in all the excitement of assembly. smile.gif

If it's possible, double check your cpu block mount (and do not over tighten the mount!) before tearing down the entire rig.

Will do, thanks for your advice. You will hear from me again next weekend, let's see how it goes thumb.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by Orthello View Post

iNen1 seems like you have a plan now - its going to be interesting to hear what fixes your issue.

When you do your draining and repiping with flow / temp meters (get a drain port too) i would recommend you also straighten that bottom gpu piping , it looks bent coming into the compression fitting . Thats 1/2 " piping you have there and it can get heavy once filled with liquid so you want all of the barb and compression fitting over that pipe.

You are looks fella so i won't try and convince you to not use compression fittings with 1/2 " pipe but just be cautious and make sure the joints have no pressure on them - eg piping is straight coming into the compression fittings and not under any sideways pressure.

Yeah i am not too satisfied with the bottom GPU as well, once drained i will see what i can do. Might as well order better fittings.

Also thanks Orthello, your advice has been invaluable. Good night to you all.
post #8407 of 18242
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manac0r View Post

Its a hot topic - no pun intended - but:

"The reason copper heatsinks with the same surface area as aluminum preform better is because copper transfers heat better." - random poster

"copper=better heat transfer
aluminum=cheaper and lighter." - some other dude

"Copper is better than aluminum when it comes to heat transfer, that is why mostly all heatpipes on cpu coolers are made of copper. Aluminum is not as good but it is lighter and they made up of mostly all radiators and fins on cpu HSF or water-cooling rads where weight is a concern. Some of the best cpu coolers and water cooling rad are made up of both copper and aluminum." - Random guy to confuse matters.

Sooo

Get copper heatsinks instead?
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post #8408 of 18242
Did you tip your case back and forth, front and back when you bleed your system? While extreme, it honestly sounds like you have a huge amount if air in the system.
post #8409 of 18242
Hello,

I think there's something wrong with my Asus Titan X.
Its ASIC is 70.1% and it's watercooled with EK block+backplate (3 RX480 in hte loop)
Using stock BIOS, i can reach 1440/2000 with 1.174v but obviously the power limit is exceeded.

So I decided to try some different bioses from from OP.
First tried the Sheyster's GM200-SC-425 and I could hit 1465 with ease with Valley or Firestrike.
At that speed, GPU core is 30-31° (ambient temp 20°).

Now the weird part of the story.
I tried BIOSes that allow 1.25 to 1.31v and none of them could bring the GPU stable 1470 and with max TDP, I see that the GPU core only increases by 1-2°.
With 1.31v the core should be a lot warmer than that...

GPU-Z is reporting 1.275v (that's normal) bu since I only gain 5 Mhz with max voltage increments, is it possible that my Titan X has the voltage regulator hard locked.
GPU-Z sees 1.27 but maybe it's still 1.17v ?

Really I have no explanation :/

Any idea?

Thanks.
post #8410 of 18242
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr Mad View Post

Hello,

I think there's something wrong with my Asus Titan X.
Its ASIC is 70.1% and it's watercooled with EK block+backplate (3 RX480 in hte loop)
Using stock BIOS, i can reach 1440/2000 with 1.174v but obviously the power limit is exceeded.

So I decided to try some different bioses from from OP.
First tried the Sheyster's GM200-SC-425 and I could hit 1465 with ease with Valley or Firestrike.
At that speed, GPU core is 30-31° (ambient temp 20°).

Now the weird part of the story.
I tried BIOSes that allow 1.25 to 1.31v and none of them could bring the GPU stable 1470 and with max TDP, I see that the GPU core only increases by 1-2°.
With 1.31v the core should be a lot warmer than that...

GPU-Z is reporting 1.275v (that's normal) bu since I only gain 5 Mhz with max voltage increments, is it possible that my Titan X has the voltage regulator hard locked.
GPU-Z sees 1.27 but maybe it's still 1.17v ?

Really I have no explanation :/

Any idea?

Thanks.
Cause the first few clocks are not fully stable so ure hitting the limit 3dmark stable clocks.
If the that stock clock was fully stable you will see a better scaling with voltage.

Test those clocks with few hours of codaw.

For me its close to 0.001v = 1mhz gain
First card asic 70 tops out at 1455 stock bios.
Second card asic 60 tops out at 1405 stock bios
Edited by cstkl1 - 5/25/15 at 5:36pm
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