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[Official] nVIDIA GeForce GTX TITAN X Owners Club - Page 851

post #8501 of 18242
A tad off topic but if anyone is going under water, I really want to suggest Noctua NF-F12 PWM fans for your radiators. I always kind of thought it was a gimick to some degree with the Noctua's... it's not. Originally I went with Corsair SP120 quiet editions and idled at around 31c on GPU/CPU (600mm of radiator total), ambient of 22c. Swapped over to Noctua's due to a SP120 getting bearing "click". I idle at 25c now with the same ambient and a smidge quieter. Same fan RPM.

Very nice fans.
post #8502 of 18242
Ordered my ek waterblocks/backplates but was wondering if there is any problems with the pads that come with the blocks?? Do people have trouble with them not making contact??
post #8503 of 18242
I didn't, Evoll88. But, I really, really, really followed the instructions to a T. And it took me probably 2 hours total time in swapping the card over to EK block/backplate. If you take your time and make sure everything's lined up correctly you should be fine.

I know a few users had some issues with them not making contact but I did not run into this.
post #8504 of 18242
Quote:
Originally Posted by MapRef41N93W View Post

None have any. Shipping is insane from Aquacomputer's site to my location.
The big question is why you are using furmark to test your GPUs instead of something that isn't horrible for them like Unigine Valley. Modern GPUs just downclock in furmark anyways.
^^ This. Tests nothing but the thermal solution. Nothing but a power virus.
Quote:
Originally Posted by doogk View Post

I think the red you see in the picture is the lighting from his case, not a thermal image.
Lol - nice call. doh.gif
nah really - folks thought that was a thermal image? Some really hot fingers in the shot?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr Mad View Post

Thank you.

So there's definitely something wrong with my card.

--- Frequency target test : 1495 / 1753 memory ---

stock bios (TDP modded to 350W max) core at 1.237v (maxxed on EVGA PX) --> Valley benchmark OK --> 32-33° after 5mn

cyclope BIOS 1.31 / Max air BIOS / Cyclope 3 etc --> Valley Benchmark OK --> 32-33° for same water & ambient temp.

It should raises to 40° at least so I guess despite the fact that lmonitoring reports 1.275+ on core, it's 1.237v in reality.
That'd explain why I can't get higher with modded BIOS than with 1.237v

If someone has any clue about that.
Is it possible there's nothing else to do to go over 1.237v with that card?

Thanks wink.gif

Asus has not applied any voltage brake to their reference PCB. Can you detail exactly how you are flashing the card? And how have you verified that the modified bios is flashed?
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i7 5960X i7 6950X Asus Rampage V Extreme 10 2 GTX Titan X Pascal 
RAMHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
GSkill 3200c14 TZs 8x8GB @ 3400c13 Intel 750 NVMe 400GB 2x Plextor SSD 256 Raid 0 (Win 7) Samsung NVMe 950 Pro M.2 
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CoolingOSOSOS
Aquaero 6 Windows 10 x64  Windows 7 Pro Linux Mint 
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Seiki 50" 4K monitor (720P-2160i) 240-30Hz Das Keyboard Model S Pro Corsair AX1200 Case Labs SM8 
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Steelseries Rival Ultimate Ears TF10 
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post #8505 of 18242
post #8506 of 18242
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jpmboy View Post


Asus has not applied any voltage brake to their reference PCB. Can you detail exactly how you are flashing the card? And how have you verified that the modified bios is flashed?

Hello,

1 - disabling the card
2 - dos command as admin
3 - nvflash -6 bios.rom (on the first time I flashed, I had to remove protection with "nvflash --protectoff")
4 - I have to enter "Y" 3 times because there is this warning message :



When I flash back to orignal Asus bios, there's no warning (have to enter "Y" twice before the flash)

5 - after flash success, I reactivate the card and reboot.

7 - GPU-Z gives me correct informations about manufacturer (EVGA for Sheyster's bioses or Nvidia for Cyclope's) and frequencies.
Also GPU-Z reads 1.276v.

Is there something wrong in flashing the bios that way?

EDIT : just flashed again to Cyclope 1.31v and this what I have with GPU-Z monitoring during Valley benchmark



1.275v and 28°C after 5mn (ambient temp 18°)
Should be at least 35-36.
Edited by Dr Mad - 5/26/15 at 5:07pm
post #8507 of 18242
Quote:
Originally Posted by dawn1980 View Post

http://www.evga.com/Products/Product.aspx?pn=100-FS-2990-B9

ACX cooler in stock

Thanks, just ordered one and a backplate. Stock cooler is way too loud at 80%.
post #8508 of 18242
Quote:
Originally Posted by deadwidesmile View Post

I didn't, Evoll88. But, I really, really, really followed the instructions to a T. And it took me probably 2 hours total time in swapping the card over to EK block/backplate. If you take your time and make sure everything's lined up correctly you should be fine.

I know a few users had some issues with them not making contact but I did not run into this.
Ok I will take my time and make sure I read/follow the directions closely and thanks for your reply. If for some reason they don't make contact would you use tim or have to get thicker pads? I have watercooled my last 4 cards and never had issues but I used xspc blocks.
post #8509 of 18242
I've had my build complete for about a week now. I still haven't even played a single game yet. I feel like I wasted money on a second TX haha. Summers here, so time to use the crap out of them. Too bad I decided to take Summer school to finish some units before I apply for the nursing program.
    
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post #8510 of 18242
Quote:
Originally Posted by evoll88 View Post

Ok I will take my time and make sure I read/follow the directions closely and thanks for your reply. If for some reason they don't make contact would you use tim or have to get thicker pads? I have watercooled my last 4 cards and never had issues but I used xspc blocks.


Well, they recommend using some TIM anyways on the pads to verify contact. Apply a small amount on the pad. Then line up your holes and lower the block/backplate carefully onto the PCB. From there, lift directly up and inspect for contact. If you're missing a few, I would look to verify you used the appropriate thickness of pad in the right location. This step actually bit me in the @** once when I was doing my block. I had accidentally picked up a 0.5 instead of a 1.0. If there's still no contact, I would recommend A. getting some new pads in appropriate thickness or, B. perhaps doubling up on a thin pad. Other's can instruct you further out of their experience probably, heh. I can't guarantee option B. is the best solution or not.
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