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EK Supremacy MX review - Page 4

post #31 of 33
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wirerat View Post

did you use the correct jet plate in that evo?

Yes my friend both jet plate and the plastic insert is the correct parts for 2011-3, although could always try all 3 jet plates + the 2 inserts in different combinations just figured I go with what EK recommended for 2011-3 + 90 degree mounting of the block itself.

Maybe it´s already saturated in terms of cooling effect for a single CPU? I´m just speculating but then again I have only low/medium speed fans in pull config only just like I did with the 360 rad as well, since I went thick 420 rad over thick 360 I´m working even closer to 8 pin ATX/EPS connector and cable, vrm heatsink and even ram slots to some degree, I also lost the ability to slightly slide the radiator back and forward along the case itself now it fit only one way and have to work around that whatever I want to accomplish.

In the end of the day that mean I have only space for a single 140mm push fan if I want to add push fans, according to my own measurements I should be able to just get away with adding 2 push fans if I go 120mm + 140/120mm fan adapters, maybe if I am extremely lucky and prepared to cut into a third fan adapter + the fan itself I might be able to go full on push/pull using 140mm pull and 120mm push and I hope I can but not holding my breath at this point. Had I only not been greedy and gone XT45 then for sure I would have been able to push/pull a 120mm/140mm setup or even ST30 for push/pull 140mm fans all the way hahaha..?
post #32 of 33
Hi,

I see there was someone having a leak with his MX.

From my side I would just like to add that mine started to leak as well, it was my own fault though. (I took the block off with the loop still intact to delid my CPU)

When I inspected the block it had fine hairline cracks on the inlet and outlet ports.

Although it's my own fault that it broke I just feel it's a good idea to warn others that the Plexi material is very fragile.
You can easily get the same hairline cracks on the ports just by tightening the fittings too much or having slight angular pressure on them from a pipe running an acute angle, or like me by just fiddling with the loop.

Replaced my MX now with an EVO Full Nickel so I shouldn't have this problem again.

EK, is there any other materials than these can be made of instead?
I'm thinking that Plexi is very hard thus it cracks easily, a more "rubbery" material would be less prone to cracking. I know you probably won't change anything now but maybe for the future this is worth researching.
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Skylake
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post #33 of 33
We have changed the tooling to increase the thickness of the threaded hole wall and made some further polishing on the tooling. These issues should be the thing of the past.

Quantum, shoot us a ticket and we will send you a replacement MX top in no time! wink.gif

Best Regards,
Niko
    
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Ci7 5960XK @ 4.3GHz ASRock X99E-ITX NVIDIA GTX Titan X Pascal 32GB DDR4-3200 
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2x 256GB SSD RAID0 Adata SP550 960GB (storage) Samsung SE-506 EK-Supremacy MX 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
Win10 Pro Dell P4317Q Cherry MX-Board 3.0 (MX Blue) EVGA 650W GS 
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