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790i Ultra NVIDIA chipset - Still rockin' in 2015 / 2016 / 2017.. will it ever die? - Page 17

post #161 of 595
Does anyone want parts from this mobo? Socket is FUBAR and a few parts were water damaged.



PSA: Make sure to check any used parts you buy for thermal past/etc. The northbridge on this board had NO thermal past on it. The southbridge had generic white crap on top of the factory grey stuff.
post #162 of 595
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by whitrzac View Post

My Asus Striker II Extreme that I bought non working, is indeed FUBAR.

So I disassembled the waterblock...


There is NO aluminum here. There is no plating. There is nothing except pure copper. thumb.gif



I can't argue with your pictures it sure does look like pure copper but I think there is some kind of plating used somewhere in that. Here is what happened to me after using that block (I am now re-using all the same components in another build except the chipset and it's not doing the same thing... and yah I used PTNuke w/Distilled only wink.gif )

Check out the color of my clear tubing... looks a lot like the color of the chipset block to me wink.gif
http://www.overclock.net/t/1593680/de-scaling-your-loop-head-to-head-with-distilled-white-vinegar


Anyway sorry to hear the board didn't work frown.gif.. They are becoming quite rare now.
post #163 of 595
No plating anywhere that I can tell. I would be happy to send it to someone if they pay shipping. Otherwise it's getting trashed.



Why did no one tell me that 790i boards don't boot from USB? mad.gif


I had to rip my house appart trying to find a blank DVD:rolleyes:
post #164 of 595
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by whitrzac View Post

No plating anywhere that I can tell. I would be happy to send it to someone if they pay shipping. Otherwise it's getting trashed.



Why did no one tell me that 790i boards don't boot from USB? mad.gif


I had to rip my house appart trying to find a blank DVD:rolleyes:


I apologize I don't want to sound argumentative but I used to boot from USB all the time. I booted from USB to run MemtestX86 and Acronis for imaging. You may want to look to see if there's a newer BIOS for the board. It's also good to have a known working bootable USB and another PC to test with because it can definitely be a royal PIA to get it working sometimes. This one or this one to use for testing USB booting.

Also one other tip, sometimes they come up as Disk Drives and NOT "Removable Disks" so when using the boot menu sometimes you need to select "Disk Drives".
post #165 of 595
I think it may be an issue with win10, not with booting from USB...

Even when booting from a disc I would still get a BSOD 0xc0000225 telling me to insert recovery media. Even when booting from the recovery media:rolleyes:


Something is screwy. I get the same BSOD when trying to boot from a win7 disc that I know works.


Got it...
from somewhere else.
Quote:
From researching, it seems this may be caused by a BIOS setting for APIC (Advanced Programmable Interrupt Controller) not being enabled. Check your BIOS settings for APIC, and make sure it is enabled. If you don't find this setting in your BIOS, you may need to see if there is an update for your BIOS that would support such a feature.

Edited by whitrzac - 9/21/16 at 5:21pm
post #166 of 595
Quote:
Originally Posted by whitrzac View Post

List of 790i motherboards:

Evga 790i: ultra SLI (reference)

XFX 790i: ultra SLI (reference)

Dell OEM: from XPS 730 (reference)

Asus Striker II Extreme: 8 power phases, WC cooling option for chipset


Evga 790i FTW: 8 power phases, all solid capacitors

Evga 790i FTW Digital PWM: 8 power phases, Digital PWM Vrm

MSI p7n2 Diamond: 8 power phases

Unreleased boards known of:
Asus pinotnoir: Factory WC for chipset, 16(?) CPU power phases!

Foxconn Dreadnought 790i Ultra SLI: WC for the chipset, 8 power phase, digital PWM



The reference Evga and XFX boards are common.
The Asus Striker 2 Extreme and Evga 790i FTW are not so common, but come up about once a month on flebay.
I haven't seen a Msi p7n2 Diamond or Evga 790i FTW Digital pwm in working condition for sale.


Are there any other unreleased boards that had a prototype at one time?


I need to add one to the list...

P5N64 WS Professional: 8 phase power, 2 SAS ports, and built in wifi


They seem to be common on fleebay
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.TRS0&_nkw=ASUS+P5N64+&_sacat=0
post #167 of 595
MSI P7N2 owner here. This board always gave me a headache and I never managed to OC it well. And sadly there are no OC guides for this board anywhere on the internet.
Are there still active Core-2 and/or 790i Overclocking threads around where you could get some OC advice in 2016? ;-)
post #168 of 595
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by SantasDeer View Post

MSI P7N2 owner here. This board always gave me a headache and I never managed to OC it well. And sadly there are no OC guides for this board anywhere on the internet.
Are there still active Core-2 and/or 790i Overclocking threads around where you could get some OC advice in 2016? ;-)

I can try to help smile.gif

Check out my BIOS settings first http://www.overclock.net/t/1547699/790i-ultra-nvidia-chipset-anyone-else-still-rockin-in-2015-edit-2016-overclocking-gaming/60#post_24737805

Memory is what makes this board difficult to O/C but when you eliminate that factor (UNLINKING memory and CPU). Set memory to 1066Mhz while overclocking the CPU and only raise memory speeds LAST when the CPU speed is 100% stable.
post #169 of 595
Quote:
Originally Posted by Laithan View Post

I can try to help smile.gif
Thanks, appreciate it although your set voltages seem quiet extreme. Hope you know what you are doing. redface.gifsmile.gif

Motherboard MSI P7N2
C2D E8200
2x 4GB DDR3 1333MHz Team Group Elite RAM
Scythe Ninja 2 cooler
Enermax Modu82+ 425W PSU
BIOS Options and settings:
BIOS Options (Click to show)
D.O.T. Control (1 - 15%) [disabled]
Intel EIST [disabled]
System Clock (Auto, Linked, Unlinked) [unlinked]
Adjust DRAM Frequency [underclocked to 1066 MHz]
Adjust CPU Ratio [6x]
DRAM Timing Mode (Auto / Manual) [stock 9-9-9-24-33-2T timings]
PCI-E Frequency (100-200 Mhz) [100MHz]
MCP PCI-E Frequency (100-200 Mhz) [100MHz]
CPU Voltage 0,0125 - 0,3875 [+0,0625V]
DRAM Voltage (V) 1.50 V - 2.40 V [1.50]
SB Voltage (V) 1.525 V - 2.000 V [1.525]
NB Voltage (V) 1.225 V - 1.600 V [1.35, anything below appeared to be instable]
PCI Expander PLL Voltage 2.551 V - 3.265 V [auto]
DIMM Memory Reference Voltage 0.485 V - 1.200 V [auto]
Memory Terminator Voltage 0.485 V - 1.200 V [auto]
Depending on FSB Terminator Voltage (VTT):
CPU GTL Reference Voltage [0.65-0.666 and 0.668-0.688] (factor of VTT, i.e. 0.65 = 65% of VTT voltage)
NB GTL Reference Voltage [0.591-0.611 and 0.668-0.691] (factor of VTT, i.e. 0.591 = 59,1% of VTT voltage)
FSB Terminator Voltage 1.056 V - 1.313 V [auto] (Also known as VTT on some boards)
SB Sleep Mode Voltage 1.374 V - 1.660 V [auto]
Spread Spectrum (Enable / Disable) [disabled]
Excetute Bit Support [disabled]
HPET [disabled]

As you can see in the spoiler, I underclocked the RAM to 1066 while remaining at stock timings and set the CPU multiplier to 6x so I won't have to adress CPU voltage yet and can concentrate on getting the FSB stable.



For stability testing I am using Prime95 27.9 using Small for CPU Voltage and Large or Custom for checking the FSB (NB ect.).



So, where am I coming from?

Coming from 333MHz FSB, there was quiet a huge hole between around 350-400 MHz.

I managed to get 405 MHz stable with 6x and 8x Multiplier with Prime Small and Large (~6 hours) with:

CPU +0.0625V

NB Voltage 1.35V

SB Voltage 1.525V (lowest value I could set)

VTT 1.313 (Highest value I could set, didn't try how much I can turn it down and still stay stable yet.)



CPU Temps during load were around 55-60°C

SPP (NB) Temperature read with HWInfo64 68°C



The NB is quiet hot for my taste, but NVidia says they can go up to ~95°C before they shut off in some way.

Not sure how the temperature effects the OC stability though and since the heatsink is so close to the tower cooler, I won't be able to get some additional fan mounted there anytime soon.



Right now I am trying to get a FSB of 450 MHz stable.

Settings so far are:

CPU +0,0625 (tested with Prime Small, doesn't limit yet since it's still with 6x multi)

NB 1.35

SB 1.525

First I left VTT, CPU GTL and NB GTL on Auto, but with VTT on Auto I didn't manage to get to the Desktop anymore without the system not POSTing or simply freezing somewhere on the way. So I increased the VTT beginning from the lowest value to make it to the desktop. That would be 1.214V.

After getting into Windows, I tested the FSB with Prime Large first, but it always produced errors after some amount of time. So I tried what test causes these errors the fastest way so I wouldn't waste 30+ Minutes with Large runs before it fails. Turns out the 672k is quiet suited for that purpose.

Then I increased the VTT from 1.214V in small increments up to 1.313V but I couldn't get the system stable after all.

Somehow it gives me headaches since I can't figure out what exactly I am doing wrong. So I came here to see if I could get some help and have a few questions at hand:

1. How do I know what combination of NB Voltage and VTT is "right"?

I messed with it for hours now, setting the NB Voltage (1.35 i.e.) and increasing the VTT in ~0.05V increments. (It regulary has 0.01-0.02 increments.)
But so far, there hasn't been any value I could get stable trough Prime95 Large (672k) for more than 20 minutes without producing errors.
Even if I go for the "give em all you got" way and set the VTT straight to 1.313V for any NB Voltage (1.35/1.38/1.42/1.47/1.5) it won't last long. It appears that too much VTT leads to instability aswell in form of rounding errors, for 1.5V even freezes.


Then I tried to play around with the GTL Voltages for a few of the "better" VTT values (that went close to 20 minutes) but two things seem strange to me:

2.1. From what I read in OC guides, the CPU GTL should be between 61...68% for Wolfdale Dualcores, depending on where you look. Some say it should be equal to the NB GTL which should be at 67%. And then you can read that the NB GTL should be more important than the CPU GTL, but I couldn't find any specific values for it, apart from the 67%.

The point that gives me headaches are the values that I can set in my bios. As mentioned above, the NB goes from x0.591 to x0.611 (small increments of 0.0005) and from x0.668 to x0.691 (wide increments of 0.002). That would be sufficient for the ~x0.67 but what is the fine scaled area between .591 to .611 for?

The CPU GTL, on the other hand, goes from x0.65 to x0.666 and from x0.668 to x0.688. With the recommendation in mind, everything from 61% to <65% is simply out of range for me.

First I thought I mixed up CPU and NB GTL, but I am pretty sure it's this way and not the other way around.

2.2. Sometimes you read that most people only use the GTLs in order to reduce their CPU and NB Voltages by a notch or two, once they got their system stable. Sometimes you read that the GTLs can make the difference between not POSTing and a stable system.

In order to find the right GTLs, how should someone start?

2.2.1.
My problem:
Since my VTT isn't stable without adjusting GTLs so far, I can only guess what VTT would be a proper base value for testing.
Then I picked one Prime95 Large FFT lenght that caused the fastest errors for me (672k) and let it run, while setting NB and CPU GTL both at once.
Since I have my CPU multiplier on the lowest setting (6x instead of 8x) and the CPU Voltage is sufficient (Prime Small without errors, freezes or BSODs), can I leave the CPU GTL on Auto and purely concentrate on the NB GTL? Or do the interfere with each other and both have to be on spot at the same time?

2.2.2.
The second problem:
I read that you should start with one value x and note how long Prime takes to spill errors / freeze. Then you move in both directions from x (x+y and x-y) and see if the errors / freezes appear faster or slower. With that in mind you see in what direction you have to move and when you get to the right value.
I am not sure if they mean full Prime Large runs with this or not. But I tried it purely with 672k and thought that it would last longer once I get into the right direction.

The problem is, that it appears to be completely random how long this single test runs. If I use the same GTL voltages and let the same test run twice with the same settings, it can happen that it runs for 40 minutes before producing an error in the first run and in the second run it fails after 3 minutes. But if it's completely random within one test and let it run in Prime Large for some amount of time, how would I know if it failed at test #4 and not #3 because it got better and not because I simply got lucky?
In my current understanding, even there I couldn't say for sure if adjusting the GTL +y or -y was good or bad since it could be somewhat random aswell.



I am not sure wether or not there are still people around here that read this and are able to help. I hope there are. Help is appreciated, thank you very much.
post #170 of 595
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by SantasDeer View Post

Thanks, appreciate it although your set voltages seem quiet extreme. Hope you know what you are doing. redface.gifsmile.gif

Motherboard MSI P7N2
C2D E8200
2x 4GB DDR3 1333MHz Team Group Elite RAM
Scythe Ninja 2 cooler
Enermax Modu82+ 425W PSU
BIOS Options and settings:
BIOS Options (Click to show)
D.O.T. Control (1 - 15%) [disabled]
Intel EIST [disabled]
System Clock (Auto, Linked, Unlinked) [unlinked]
Adjust DRAM Frequency [underclocked to 1066 MHz]
Adjust CPU Ratio [6x]
DRAM Timing Mode (Auto / Manual) [stock 9-9-9-24-33-2T timings]
PCI-E Frequency (100-200 Mhz) [100MHz]
MCP PCI-E Frequency (100-200 Mhz) [100MHz]
CPU Voltage 0,0125 - 0,3875 [+0,0625V]
DRAM Voltage (V) 1.50 V - 2.40 V [1.50]
SB Voltage (V) 1.525 V - 2.000 V [1.525]
NB Voltage (V) 1.225 V - 1.600 V [1.35, anything below appeared to be instable]
PCI Expander PLL Voltage 2.551 V - 3.265 V [auto]
DIMM Memory Reference Voltage 0.485 V - 1.200 V [auto]
Memory Terminator Voltage 0.485 V - 1.200 V [auto]
Depending on FSB Terminator Voltage (VTT):
CPU GTL Reference Voltage [0.65-0.666 and 0.668-0.688] (factor of VTT, i.e. 0.65 = 65% of VTT voltage)
NB GTL Reference Voltage [0.591-0.611 and 0.668-0.691] (factor of VTT, i.e. 0.591 = 59,1% of VTT voltage)
FSB Terminator Voltage 1.056 V - 1.313 V [auto] (Also known as VTT on some boards)
SB Sleep Mode Voltage 1.374 V - 1.660 V [auto]
Spread Spectrum (Enable / Disable) [disabled]
Excetute Bit Support [disabled]
HPET [disabled]

As you can see in the spoiler, I underclocked the RAM to 1066 while remaining at stock timings and set the CPU multiplier to 6x so I won't have to adress CPU voltage yet and can concentrate on getting the FSB stable.



For stability testing I am using Prime95 27.9 using Small for CPU Voltage and Large or Custom for checking the FSB (NB ect.).



So, where am I coming from?

Coming from 333MHz FSB, there was quiet a huge hole between around 350-400 MHz.

I managed to get 405 MHz stable with 6x and 8x Multiplier with Prime Small and Large (~6 hours) with:

CPU +0.0625V

NB Voltage 1.35V

SB Voltage 1.525V (lowest value I could set)

VTT 1.313 (Highest value I could set, didn't try how much I can turn it down and still stay stable yet.)



CPU Temps during load were around 55-60°C

SPP (NB) Temperature read with HWInfo64 68°C



The NB is quiet hot for my taste, but NVidia says they can go up to ~95°C before they shut off in some way.

Not sure how the temperature effects the OC stability though and since the heatsink is so close to the tower cooler, I won't be able to get some additional fan mounted there anytime soon.



Right now I am trying to get a FSB of 450 MHz stable.

Settings so far are:

CPU +0,0625 (tested with Prime Small, doesn't limit yet since it's still with 6x multi)

NB 1.35

SB 1.525

First I left VTT, CPU GTL and NB GTL on Auto, but with VTT on Auto I didn't manage to get to the Desktop anymore without the system not POSTing or simply freezing somewhere on the way. So I increased the VTT beginning from the lowest value to make it to the desktop. That would be 1.214V.

After getting into Windows, I tested the FSB with Prime Large first, but it always produced errors after some amount of time. So I tried what test causes these errors the fastest way so I wouldn't waste 30+ Minutes with Large runs before it fails. Turns out the 672k is quiet suited for that purpose.

Then I increased the VTT from 1.214V in small increments up to 1.313V but I couldn't get the system stable after all.

Somehow it gives me headaches since I can't figure out what exactly I am doing wrong. So I came here to see if I could get some help and have a few questions at hand:

1. How do I know what combination of NB Voltage and VTT is "right"?

I messed with it for hours now, setting the NB Voltage (1.35 i.e.) and increasing the VTT in ~0.05V increments. (It regulary has 0.01-0.02 increments.)
But so far, there hasn't been any value I could get stable trough Prime95 Large (672k) for more than 20 minutes without producing errors.
Even if I go for the "give em all you got" way and set the VTT straight to 1.313V for any NB Voltage (1.35/1.38/1.42/1.47/1.5) it won't last long. It appears that too much VTT leads to instability aswell in form of rounding errors, for 1.5V even freezes.


Then I tried to play around with the GTL Voltages for a few of the "better" VTT values (that went close to 20 minutes) but two things seem strange to me:

2.1. From what I read in OC guides, the CPU GTL should be between 61...68% for Wolfdale Dualcores, depending on where you look. Some say it should be equal to the NB GTL which should be at 67%. And then you can read that the NB GTL should be more important than the CPU GTL, but I couldn't find any specific values for it, apart from the 67%.

The point that gives me headaches are the values that I can set in my bios. As mentioned above, the NB goes from x0.591 to x0.611 (small increments of 0.0005) and from x0.668 to x0.691 (wide increments of 0.002). That would be sufficient for the ~x0.67 but what is the fine scaled area between .591 to .611 for?

The CPU GTL, on the other hand, goes from x0.65 to x0.666 and from x0.668 to x0.688. With the recommendation in mind, everything from 61% to <65% is simply out of range for me.

First I thought I mixed up CPU and NB GTL, but I am pretty sure it's this way and not the other way around.

2.2. Sometimes you read that most people only use the GTLs in order to reduce their CPU and NB Voltages by a notch or two, once they got their system stable. Sometimes you read that the GTLs can make the difference between not POSTing and a stable system.

In order to find the right GTLs, how should someone start?

2.2.1.
My problem:
Since my VTT isn't stable without adjusting GTLs so far, I can only guess what VTT would be a proper base value for testing.
Then I picked one Prime95 Large FFT lenght that caused the fastest errors for me (672k) and let it run, while setting NB and CPU GTL both at once.
Since I have my CPU multiplier on the lowest setting (6x instead of 8x) and the CPU Voltage is sufficient (Prime Small without errors, freezes or BSODs), can I leave the CPU GTL on Auto and purely concentrate on the NB GTL? Or do the interfere with each other and both have to be on spot at the same time?

2.2.2.
The second problem:
I read that you should start with one value x and note how long Prime takes to spill errors / freeze. Then you move in both directions from x (x+y and x-y) and see if the errors / freezes appear faster or slower. With that in mind you see in what direction you have to move and when you get to the right value.
I am not sure if they mean full Prime Large runs with this or not. But I tried it purely with 672k and thought that it would last longer once I get into the right direction.

The problem is, that it appears to be completely random how long this single test runs. If I use the same GTL voltages and let the same test run twice with the same settings, it can happen that it runs for 40 minutes before producing an error in the first run and in the second run it fails after 3 minutes. But if it's completely random within one test and let it run in Prime Large for some amount of time, how would I know if it failed at test #4 and not #3 because it got better and not because I simply got lucky?
In my current understanding, even there I couldn't say for sure if adjusting the GTL +y or -y was good or bad since it could be somewhat random aswell.



I am not sure wether or not there are still people around here that read this and are able to help. I hope there are. Help is appreciated, thank you very much.


That's a mouthful but I like your style. I tend to write long posts as well and I appreciate the details up front instead of clam digging smile.gifI'll try to help somewhat. I can see you are very experienced and did your homework so you might have already done what I can suggest but here goes.

My voltages, yes they are high but so was my overclock and my entire system was water-cooled (except ram and hard drives). They were also set this high "24/7" for almost 2 years straight, never an issue. I know many who have used this much voltage and never had a problem. You'll hear many people talk about frying a CPU with too much voltage but those same people usually never fried one or are referring to a different CPU architecture. Yes it is POSSIBLE to damage a CPU if you allow it but you have to be careless/greedy for it to happen, at least in my experience. Keep your CPU below 80C under maximum load and have fun. If you manage temps properly it's not a big deal. Anyone overclocking at all should be willing to take the risk in the first place. It's just how far are we willing to go smile.gif.

You obviously know what you are doing so just watch your temps and don't use voltages any higher as what I was using is about the most you can use wink.gif. Everyone overclock at your own risk, YMMV. I'm currently pushing 1.5v to my Xeon E5-1650v2 so ya, it's how I roll thumb.gif


Is the ram engineered for the 790i chipset specifically? You sound like you have your memory pretty stable. Does it pass memtestx86? Consider yourself lucky if it's 100% stable. 790i Ultra used (for the performance profiles) 1.7v and 2.0v DDR3! This is RARE high voltage memory (max is 1.5v with modern DDR3) as it was some of the first DDR3 performance chips. Buying the right DDR3 was a HUGE issue at the time for P35 vs 790i chipsets (and to make matter worse manufacturers sometimes differentiated them ONLY by a color). The number of people buying the WRONG ram was insane and then all the low voltage DDR3 came out and "high voltage" DDR3 wasn't produced anymore & became very difficult to find.

Here is an example: Patriot VIPER (original viper series) and the ONLY way you can tell they are the correct ones for 790i are because they are GREEN (there are other Patriot Viper of the same gen with identical specs and they are blue... blue team memory got blue spreaders and the green team got green spreaders). tongue.gif You think they could have put it on the label. LMAO


The reason I mentioned this is because RAM on these motherboard are the most difficult thing to deal with. Your BIOS settings look pretty good other than the voltages could be increased to allow for overclocking (the NB and/or SB, memory and cpu). I should have mentioned, my BIOS screenshots are not using UNLINKED, it uses SYNC mode. Trust me, I followed my own advice at first and used UNLINKED once I realized I was chasing my tail. This is just because when I got the X5470 it overclocked so well I was actually able to run like 1900Mhz (I forget the exact speed now) bus and memory at the same time so I tried SYNC mode and it worked!! It has a 10x multi (practically unlocked) so I was lucky tongue.gif




GTL reference voltages are where you will pull your hair out. In my BIOS I had the option of "AUTO" or "DEFAULT" along with manually setting it of course. I found that AUTO and me manually fiddling with the settings never produced the results I wanted. I noticed this by accident one day I was like "hey wait a minute there is a DEFAULT and an AUTO option!".. for ME anyway setting the GTL to "default" was BY FAR the most stable setting. I'm sure if I could manually set the exact same values it used (I couldn't see them) it would work but anyway that's what I did. Unfortunately not all 790i BIOS' have this setting (mine was a Striker II Extreme).

There's a GTL "formula" as you have seen but it never worked for me. I couldn't even begin to suggest a value. I've always just had to fiddle and find what it liked but as I said above once I tried the DEFAULT setting instead of AUTO I never manually set them again. Sorry I cannot be much help here but I'm sure there some that know more than I about GTLs.




The chipset on these boards gets SUPER hot and are known to be problematic if you don't cool them down. I needed to send 1.65v to get my high bus speed and memory stable (this is before memory controllers were in the CPU) so yes the "other" voltages besides the CPU voltage were very much needed to overclock higher. You might need to also. I agree with you that 65C is a bit hot but cheap and easy to manage. What I did was install 60mm fans blowing towards the NB/SB heatsync. You may need to get creative with tiewraps/velcro or something to get them in the right spot but they make a HUGE difference (I would recommend noiseblocker fans with high CFM).

You can reference my BIOS screenshots for the chipset voltages. You are probably going to have to match my voltages if you want higher bus and memory speeds but do NOT use my CPU voltage under AIR (or my memory voltage.).

Before I ever allow ANY overclock to boot into windows I always boot from my USB drive and run memtestx86 and let the entire test complete. Note that there is memtestx86 and memtestx86+. One of them is recently updated the other isn't.




Your settings are pretty good overall, not far from what I would have done. You've got the spread spectrums disabled.. assuming you also have disabled firewire, IDE, and anything else onboard that isn't being used. You could be limited by your ram (but I don't think so because you seem to be lucky with that ram), you could be limited by your voltages, you could be limited by chipset overheating but you definitely have some things that you could try. I'm sure someone else may have a tip or two also.


Lastly, and I know many will not agree with me, but I do not believe in using Prime95 for stability testing. It's not that it doesn't work well, it works very well if you are testing mission critical / medical diagnostic FDA regulated equipment and need to guarantee stability under the absolute worst conditions for your CPU, then yes use Prime95.. LOL

Some will say that if it's not Prime95 stable then it's not stable.. I cannot argue with that.. I can just say that I think it is excessive. It's a scenario that's so overkill it can actually DAMAGE YOUR CPU let's make no mistake this is HAMMERING and BEATING THE CRAP out of your CPU and some people run this for DAYS never mind hours..nobody can sit there that long monitoring temps. I would actually consider that a fire-hazard! This is where I have seen some of the highest CPU temps ever and I literally had to pull the power cord from the wall a few times as I was monitoring (when I see 85C and climbing I pull it)... I just stopped using it. I felt like I was crashing my car into a wall to see how good the bumper works. I have had over-clocks where I could run absolutely ANY other test, bench, game, app, including 10+ hour marathon gaming sessions (I gamed at 4K, max settings,980Ti's, CPU draw calls were maxxed) and would never have a CPU crash... the only exception was Prime95.. it failed that.. it even passed the AIDA64 system stability test but Prime95 failed... It's just a level of stability that does not matter to me. I stopped obessing if Prime95 passed and I found other ways to confirm stability. I can tell you that if your overclock is not stable, Realbench or Cinebench R15 (CPU test) will usually crash. They are both pretty quick to run. It's just for a general idea of course. The real test will prove itself as you use the PC over time..

I need to ask you... is EVERYTHING else stable besides Prime95 for you? smile.gif I'm just curious.

Sorry I couldn't help more.
cheers.gif
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Overclock.net › Forums › Intel › Intel Motherboards › 790i Ultra NVIDIA chipset - Still rockin' in 2015 / 2016 / 2017.. will it ever die?