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post #4091 of 4103
Well over 200cd/m2 unless they have a particularly dark panel.
post #4092 of 4103
Quote:
Originally Posted by Battou62 View Post

Looks decent, though that brightness is quite high. What brightness did you calibrate to?

Well you could change the brightness, but I find these settings work well regardless of the brightness setting, except the blacks will get crushed somewhat at lower brightness settings and colors won't pop as much because there will be less limunance to lend them contrast.

It may take some time for readjustment to the increased brightness, but going back is when you notice truly how much better it is. Of course, if you're using your monitor at night you're going to want to adjust the brightness accordingly.

I have been comparing the final calibration to the Nexus 7 IPS screen I have....and while it is an old product, it is actually still high end screen when it comes to contrast/color space, and have almost 600 nits of brightness and 1300:1 contrast ratio, making it technically better than the XB270HU. On top of that, All Nexus 7 displays are factory calibrated, then additionally calibrated again after assembly, on an individual basis to account for any differences between individual panels.

The screen actually still beats the XB270HU, but only slightly. It has some slightly more visible dark details, and ever so slightly better color richness. But one has to keep in mind that it's almost a much smaller screen with a much smaller back light.
Edited by AMDATI - 4/29/17 at 1:56pm
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post #4093 of 4103
Think you could calibrate this for 200 cd/m2 at least. I am used to 140.
post #4094 of 4103
Quote:
Originally Posted by Battou62 View Post

Think you could calibrate this for 200 cd/m2 at least. I am used to 140.

200 nits would be about 57% brightness.

As I said, it should be fine at any brightness above ~30% as long as your gamma is set properly in windows (not just the OSD of the monitor). I'm running at 50% brightness right now because it's cloudy out, and it looks fine. The only difference I can really notice is the image generally isn't as bright.

But if you want to try it out and better tweak it to your own brightness, use the rule. If you lower contrast by 10.....you raise each of the color temp RGB by 10 too in the user defined settings of the color temp menu. You could also go the complete opposite, for example, instead of having 90% contrast and 20% color temp RGB, you could have 20% contrast and 80 or 90% color temp RGB.

As a second level to test if you're not out of spec, you can use lagom LCD's white test

http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/white.php

At least all but the last boxes should be visible, but I can even see the last row of boxes very faintly.



http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/contrast.php

And this test will tell you if your contrast/color temp is ok, none of the higher brightness bands should blend.


I use this one to calibrate my gamma

http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/gamma_calibration.php

While I do feel like a little bit of a brighter gamma brings out a bit more details in darker scenes, it is definitely well outside of the gamma spec numbers wise. So I just stick with ~2.25 to maintain overall picture quality.

I use windows control panel color management to calibrate gamma.



I think the higher brightness (~80%) give things a more natural realistic 'looking through a window' kind of appearance. Although it is better for video than say, staring at a white background webpage.
Edited by AMDATI - 4/29/17 at 2:06pm
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post #4095 of 4103
The higher your brightness the worse your black level. I wouldn't advise using higher settings unless the monitor is in a brightly lit room (from lighting or sunlight).
post #4096 of 4103
Well obviously you need to adjust brightness according to room brightness or time of day. But actually, high brightness increases contrast which increases the visibility of dark details and the perceived quality of black levels in general. You'll never get jet black blacks at night in a dimly lit room no matter the brightness level, but you will get great blacks in a well lit room with high screen brightness for contrast.

I typically run 30-50% brightness at night, and 50-80% during day.
Edited by AMDATI - 4/30/17 at 9:10am
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post #4097 of 4103
I know I'm not going to get to excellent black levels. It can get low enough that glow is more of an issue. I run 19/47 brightness (non-ULMB/ULMB) throughout the day. Contrast ratio should be fairly consistent across the brightness range so it's a matter of preference more than anything else.
post #4098 of 4103
Contrast ratio is not consistent across brightness ranges.

For example, I would say the black level is pretty darn good at 1% brightness setting.....but the rest of the screen is soo dark, that it doesn't really matter if it still had a 1000:1 contrast ratio, it doesn't look as good......and I would say that probably there is no longer a 1000:1 contrast ratio at that brightness level.....and contrast ratio is a function of brightness.

Now also it's important to understand what we are trying to replicate. For example, a lizard on a tree branch during day, will have a certain luminence to it, which can be more realistically represented with higher image brightness. Colors aren't the only importance, brightness of colors is also of importance for 'immersion'. Looking at things on low brightness settings might be more akin to looking at the world with only sunglasses on. I wouldn't exactly call that accurate or desirable picture quality.

HDR screens for example, actually have relatively bad black levels.....it's just that they're soo bright, that the contrast between the brightest and darkest parts, is greater. Contrast is in essence, a concept of relativity. These screens have well over 1000-2000 nits of brightness, at least 3-4 times your average screens. Are they better at blocking light? Not really. They might have some individual back lights for localizing dimming, but even that's a hit and a miss and highly situational. So even if the blacks bleed twice as much light, the brightest areas will still be more than twice as bright still, maybe even 5 times as bright, which translates into contrast.

Or to put it simply, one can just look at the very definition of contrast ratio:

"The contrast ratio is a property of a display system, defined as the ratio of the luminance of the brightest color (white) to that of the darkest color (black) that the system is capable of producing."

Reading that, one can immediately see that the brightness difference really isn't that great at low brightness, therefore the contrast also isn't there.

So you actually need brightness, to not only increase contrast, but to also be able to see it relative to what's being represented.....and what's generally being represented is the real world.

While you may prefer a low brightness, that is actually not getting the best picture quality out of your monitor's specs, which is really what I was discussing, especially since one would expect such high/odd settings to go completely outside of a monitors gamma and wash out colors.

I know for the most of the life of this monitor, I never bothered tinkering with it much beyond a few ticks here and there with the contrast, a few ticks here and there with the color temp to make the picture warmer or get rid of some green hue casting, etc. Even when I did fiddle with these settings, the relationship between contrast and color temp wasn't immediately apparent, so you'd change one, it'd start to wash out or give an undesirable color tint to the picture, then you'd back off. Even sites like TFT central suggested a few ticks here and there to calibrate the monitor......and the picture always looks ok, maybe acceptable, but nothing really approaching these new settings.

Now maybe (maybe not), it's possible, there's some Adobe RGB color space inaccuracy being introduced......but the picture undoubtedly looks better. I don't do printing work, so it's not an issue for me either way. But I see it more as untapping a bit of potential in the panel that the manufacturer didn't exactly include.....you know, kind of like how those GPU's used to have extra locked cores that a simple bios update would unlock and basically turn a cheaper card into a more expensive one. And that makes sense, it's safe to say these panels do have more capabilities than they were shipped with. I mean the first ones shipped with 100Hz ULMB, the next ones shipped with 120Hz ULMB, and later ones shipped with 165Hz rather than 144hz......all the same panel/hardware.
Edited by AMDATI - 4/30/17 at 12:26pm
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post #4099 of 4103
I profiled my monitor with hardware, I know what I'm getting out of it. Contrast ratio is consistent because black levels scale up and down with brightness. TFTC's measurements show this and my own were similar. It might peak at higher brightness but my room isn't lit brightly enough for a higher setting to not strain my eyes.
post #4100 of 4103
Any recommendations on hooking up Display Port to USB-C (Thunderbolt 3)? I was planning on a converter, but now see this cable that literally goes from Display Port to USB-C. But will it support an overclocked speed of 165Hz or even 144Hz?

https://www.amazon.com/DisplayPort-ITANDA-Thunderbolt-Compatible-ChromeBook/dp/B06X9P2YRJ/ref=zg_bsnr_3015403011_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=JHC60ZM5HMDXPY8J06VF

My other video options on my laptop are HDMI (which is a no-go since it's an older HDMI), and a mini Display Port (which is already used by a 21:9 monitor). So I'm going to use my USB-C / Thunderbolt video port... but was wondering the best method to connect from that to the monitor's Display Port.
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