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Underfloor cooling system

post #1 of 64
Thread Starter 
Hello, first of all I want to say that my English is not very good, excuse me for that.


This type of cooling combined: silence and good temperatures, but is specific and somewhat budgetary decision.
Why specifically?
Because it requires the floor in the room to be enough lukewarm.

_______________________________
OK, I rewrote all down because is needed to synchronized CPU temp.

Here's what I did, I removed the water radiator (from car) with 2x 80 mm and 1x 120 mm fans on it and instead I use copper pipe which I laid on the floor in the room, and on it is thermal concrete (cement).

Result, the water temperature in the system dropped from 28-31C to 18-24C. Room's temperature is between 19-24C
The results are not best because all the elements in my system are the cheapest. One of my mistakes is that I used too thin pipe it is needed to be 8 mm or 10 mm.


_______________________________
The parts that I have used are:

Pump: Hailea HX-8808; 650L/H; 1,2m; 8W = 11.10$
Copper Pipe: 4,5m / 6mm = 8,30$
Copper Pipe: 1m / 6mm = 1.50$ (add for SB/NB)
Copper Splint = free I have it
Plastic Pipe: 2m / 6mm = 2$
Silver silicone grease = 1$ + 2,8$ shipping
CPU Water Block = around 10$ ( free - my old stock air block and some work + transport).
1x230 mm Fan = 15.50$ Warning: removed Spoiler! (Click to show)
2x 10" Fan = free from my old system.
Time biggrin.gif

And some pictures:
Copper Pipe before

and after thermal concrete (cement)

I modify this


into this

PC



Warning: (first system, just for info) Spoiler! (Click to show)
The system after boot (idle)


Prime after 20 min on max heat

_____

Adding North Bridge in the circle:

Result 3-5C less.
________

SB+ NB:

________

Redesign and this is new pictures smile.gif
SB + NB:



Currently under water in idle SB holds 31-32S and under load up to 35C.
NB idle 29-30C under load is up to 39C which one is very good result for the moment.

So after I add SB+NB in the circle CPU temp goes 1-2C high. SB is third in the circle and because this it temp is a bit high but I remove 2 fans from the system which one was the point.

After I burned my old motherboard because putting of R9 280, I took another Gigabyte GA-P35C-DS3R

So I moved the CPU and waterblock on the new motherboard, which was even better. In the BIOS setup I found an automatic overclocking of the CPU at higher load in the mometasone are achieved 3.3 Ghz. Perhaps if I put adjusts manual, will be more, but mometasone and I like that.

And pictures:




CPU after Prime ~1 hour 50-53C
NB Air cooling with 230 mm fan is 35-38C
This motherboard does not have a sensor on the south bridge and the radiator is under video card, but not heated to the touch.
Edited by AVATARAT - 10/26/15 at 3:54am
post #2 of 64
Nice work and I bet it was fun to do too.

Have you considered geothermal cooling?

My System
(15 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
FX6300 Black M5A99X EVO R2.0 Nvidia GTS450 Team Vulcan PC3 12800 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
Samsung 840 PRO Asus DRW-1608P (x2) Custom Water Cooling Win7 (Ult), Win 8.1 & Win Server 2012 R2 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
2 X Samsung 915N Ducky Shine III, Blue Cherry/Blue LEDs PCP&C 1kw Lian Li PC-71 (W/Window) 
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My System
(15 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
FX6300 Black M5A99X EVO R2.0 Nvidia GTS450 Team Vulcan PC3 12800 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
Samsung 840 PRO Asus DRW-1608P (x2) Custom Water Cooling Win7 (Ult), Win 8.1 & Win Server 2012 R2 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
2 X Samsung 915N Ducky Shine III, Blue Cherry/Blue LEDs PCP&C 1kw Lian Li PC-71 (W/Window) 
MouseAudio
Logiteck G400s none 
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post #3 of 64
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by billbartuska View Post

Nice work and I bet it was fun to do too.

Have you considered geothermal cooling?
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Thanks, yes I had much fun smile.gif

No, this work fine for moment. In future I think to make chipset and mofsets under water too, and eventually the video card.
post #4 of 64
Thread Starter 
Now, I want to explain why I use the air cooler as water block. The image that I have below shows how water passes through it. Because the interior is like a cup of water passing turns and I think that is good for cooling the water block.




On the other hand aluminum fin help further cooling which becomes passive or to add a fan and become active.

Currently I have a fan which cool the mofsets and partially cools and water block, as seen above. But I've tried to stop him and the temperature gets a few degrees which is nothing in general.

I tested turn off the pump for 1 min. And idle CPU temperature went from 43C to 60C. So if the pump stops I have time to react and turn off the computer.

This block can be found just a few dollars and can be converted easily with copper bus. In this case I used the bus and turning cone was made to fit well and be welded tight.
Edited by AVATARAT - 4/13/15 at 6:40am
post #5 of 64
Nice project! thumb.gif

I think you could lower your temps using a more efective waterblock. Maybe that one doesn't have enough contact area to exchange the heat.
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Hard DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Crucial M4 128GB Thermalright Silver Arrow SB-E Windows 8 Ultimate x64 HP w2558hc 
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Seasonic M12II 750W Handmade TestBench Logitech g500 Steelseries QcK 
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i5 2500k 4,5 GHz 1,336v AsRock Z68 Pro3 Gen3 MSI 660Ti Power Edition with Antec H2O 620 G.Skill Ares 8Gb DDR3-1600MHz  
Hard DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Crucial M4 128GB Thermalright Silver Arrow SB-E Windows 8 Ultimate x64 HP w2558hc 
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post #6 of 64
Thread Starter 
Water's flow rate at moment is really low. I need new/second pump. I found one in ebay but it will came from China so I need to wait smile.gif
If this do not help I will think on your suggestion too smile.gif
But I think that all will be ok with the new pump.
post #7 of 64
I bet you'll see large gains with a proper water block made for cooling a CPU. A couple of reasons for it, CPU blocks have hundreds of tiny itty bitty little pins that effectively increase your surface area so the cold water is able to hit a much larger effective surface area. Plus the copper is thinner, so it is able to absorb and dissipate heat much faster than a thicker block. Just my 0.02 cents smile.gif

Cool project though!
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post #8 of 64
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by lmarklar View Post

I bet you'll see large gains with a proper water block made for cooling a CPU. A couple of reasons for it, CPU blocks have hundreds of tiny itty bitty little pins that effectively increase your surface area so the cold water is able to hit a much larger effective surface area. Plus the copper is thinner, so it is able to absorb and dissipate heat much faster than a thicker block. Just my 0.02 cents smile.gif

Cool project though!

Hummm, you are right.

On the top side of the block it is lukewarm. And I don't know how to check the underside.
post #9 of 64
I would get a proper CPU block, it's the most important part of this system you've got. The entire reason you put in geothermal cooling was to get the CPU temps down, would make sense to me to give the CPU the most effective heat sink you can in order to see all the gains that your hard work has gotten you thumb.gif

On another note. If the water you are bringing in is below ambient room temperature, you are fighting yourself. The modified block you have has a built in heat sink. So anything that it's touching, it is trying to bring to ambient, which might be why it seems luke warm.

I'd look into a heat killer or something similar. But if you can't afford the $80+ for one, then even an EK supreme or something would be way more effective and only run $40 or so. You can also watch the marketplace here, some good deals crop up from time to time!
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X99 Reboot
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel 5820k Asus X99 Pro 2 x GTX 780 Mushkin PC22400 
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Mushkin PCIe Scorpion Intel SSD Seagate 7200rpm Alpha Cool 360 and 240 XT45 
OS
Win7 64 
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post #10 of 64
Thread Starter 
You mean, that:



1. Here is likewarm
2. Here is hot.

Yes ?

Edit:
Bottom side of the block:


Edited by AVATARAT - 4/16/15 at 10:42am
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