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[Build Log] CaseLabs M8 Refurbishment: X99 Deluxe, 5930K, 2x980GTX, Aquaero 6, Solid Acrylic Custom Loop - Page 3

post #21 of 80
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Costas View Post

Wow - Such nice/professional work alstorm.
Thanks for the compliment - you might not be saying that if you saw the soldering on the back side whistle.gif
Quote:
Just stumbled on your thread - I'm actually Flat-6 on Overclockers.com.au forum.

I'm really glad that you found the circuit I designed to be useful for your build.
cheers.gif your design saved me a lot of hassle returning the fans I bought (which obviously would have been quicker, but is not the way modders do things!) +REP'd for your awesome design and good documentation which enabled me to do this
Quote:
Although a tad late in stumbling on your thread - In hindsight if you had contacted me I could of have sent you some PCB's of the circuit for your build which would have saved you some work...smile.gif I build a few other electronic things in my spare time and knocking up a PCB is easy for me and I could have sent you some for next to nothing.
doh! - I did consider contacting you, but as your instructions were so clear there seemed little point - never mind, this part of the project was fun.
Quote:
Anyway great to see someone benefiting from the circuit... I'm still using the same e-loops in my build from last year and they are still working fine with my Aquaero 6XT.
They are great fans glad to hear they are working fine.

For future reference, and since I mentioned it earlier, Version 2 of the stripboard layout is below (circuit is unchanged ofc)


NOTE: compared to the first version the connections to the fans and AC6 have moved to the top left and bottom right of the circuit respectively, and on the fan side (top left) they DON'T match the normal order of pin orientation of the fans themselves anymore (12v is at top, RPM in middle on the layout). This was done mainly to save space on the circuit board.
post #22 of 80
Thread Starter 
Spraying parts for Aquaero and Lighting
While building the fan splitter boxes I also had time to get on with another job - I had a number of parts that were bare metal that needed spraying black to blend in better. These are all components associated with the aquacomputer and the internal lighting for the PC. The first step of this was preparing the metal fro spraying by a lot of sanding!


These are the endplates for the aquaero 6


And also endplates for the poweradjust and fabwerk frames



Caselabs shims for the special bay supports


I have also got hold of some micro LED channel with a frosted diffuser


These are a simple channel with a plastic diffuser screen that clips in the front
The assembled diffuser and channel will get attached to the inside of the case lab case with....



Meccano! - I loved this stuff when I was younger; this is more like the old stuff from 20-30 years ago that i used to play with, not the more modern coloured or themed items. These are plain steel and aluminium and were sourced from a online meccano spares store here in the UK.



ready for some colour!



The images above are from part way through the spraying process (approx 6 coats each side)
After these shots were taken, I let the items thoroughly dry for a few days and then gave them a gentle rub with 1200 grit sandpaper to get a smooth surface, This allows a smooth matt finish once the final few coats go on.


Once the final coats are done and touch dry, they are left to thoroughly dry in a mildly warm place, and to let the paint harden a bit before working with them.



Black meccano parts


Poweradjust end plates


shims


micro channel LED holder (diffuser not in place in this shot)

The next jobs are to get the aquacomputer parts built up into their front plates and also to get the fans sleeved and wired in. This stage is effectively installing the "services" into the case, so those and few other jobs like working out routing for front panel, power switch wiring, splitters for aqaubus and so on will be done before the main sleeving of GPU and motherboard.
Edited by alstorm - 10/22/15 at 3:11am
post #23 of 80
I'd really like to see the difference with the diffusers for the leds. What is the size of those channels?
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post #24 of 80
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdmR View Post

I'd really like to see the difference with the diffusers for the leds. What is the size of those channels?

Once I have connected it up I will get some shots with, and without, the frosted cover/diffuser so you can see the effect -- my hope is that it will give a smoother more even light inside the case - time will tell i guess.

The channel is made out of aluminium (1.1mm thick) and is around 14mm wide outer edge to outer edge the internal channel is about 10 or 11mm its basically just enough for the LED strip I have (from aquacomputer)
Edited by alstorm - 10/11/15 at 3:28pm
post #25 of 80
Hey @alstorm

Are you able to control the B12-3's all the way down to 500+/- RPM? but without the RPM readings?
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post #26 of 80
I had the same problems with my B12-3 and -2's. Costas work on that was great but I ended up sending all of mine back and switching to PWM versions ... and Vardars instead.
I have heard that the issue has been corrected on newer versions so was wondering if anyone had any info on if that is true or not.

I was shocked that such a high end fan could have a problem like that and can't believe they would let it stand.
Edit: Though, then again, they must have tested them before releasing them.
Edited by Jakusonfire - 10/12/15 at 7:00pm
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post #27 of 80
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironsmack View Post

Hey @alstorm

Are you able to control the B12-3's all the way down to 500+/- RPM? but without the RPM readings?
When power controlled they will work down lower than the 650-660's RPM you see in this thread. Not sure if it is 500 RPM though - my guess would be about that "ballpark". I might see if I can get a better estimate of this lower end somehow when I am on annual leave next week.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jakusonfire View Post

I had the same problems with my B12-3 and -2's. Costas work on that was great but I ended up sending all of mine back and switching to PWM versions ... and Vardars instead.
I have heard that the issue has been corrected on newer versions so was wondering if anyone had any info on if that is true or not.

I was shocked that such a high end fan could have a problem like that and can't believe they would let it stand.
Edit: Though, then again, they must have tested them before releasing them.
I debated sending them back when i found out - Unfortunately PWM wouldnt work for me as I am after six (or seven) seperate control channels and the AC6 can only do four.

I would be intrested to find if its true that the new B12-3 models work better - I asusme that if the new fans give the same RPM vs. power curve as the old fans, so the change is just to the RPM detector circuit, then you could theoretically mix and match new and old fans in a build like this. You could then get a correct fan reading by making sure the RPM signal that is read in any group of fans is the one from the new model.
Edited by alstorm - 10/13/15 at 3:53am
post #28 of 80
Quote:
Originally Posted by alstorm View Post

When power controlled they will work down lower than the 650-660's RPM you see in this thread. Not sure if it is 500 RPM though - my guess would be about that "ballpark". I might see if I can get a better estimate of this lower end somehow when I am on annual leave next week.


That would be great, thanks thumb.gif . Im planning to grab 16 of these for my upcoming build and i want to know if i could use them, minus the RPM readings.

Wouldn't bother me since, im pairing them up with my AP15's.
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post #29 of 80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironsmack View Post

That would be great, thanks thumb.gif . Im planning to grab 16 of these for my upcoming build and i want to know if i could use them, minus the RPM readings.

Wouldn't bother me since, im pairing them up with my AP15's.

OK I have been doing some experimentation, and have come up with the following graph that should explain it reasonably nicely



Note that these reading are taken with the fan oriented vertically, so freestanding on an edge - all the previous testing I had done (and used in images in this thread) was with the fan placed horizontally on a flat surface - There seems to be a big difference of around 150 RPM between the horizontal and vertical scenarios, and my guess is that is due to some either some aerodynamic effects when the fan is placed on a flat surface and essentially "starved for air" or the physics of the bearing design itself.

The key point here is that without a filter you cannot reliably read RPM below about 4.6V but the fan keeps on operating to about 3.4V. I guess mileage may vary on individual fans depending on how the fan is oriented, power supply, production tolerances, how dusty it is etc. But in general the stock fans can be driven just over one volt lower than when RPM cuts out.

For this build I am intending to drive these at 6v and below only so the filter has given me around 20-25% of my range with RPM readings, where previously I may have had none. thumb.gif
post #30 of 80
Thanks for the help man!

BTW, did you happen to get a RPM reading down to 3.4v with your mod?
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