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[Build Log] CaseLabs M8 Refurbishment: X99 Deluxe, 5930K, 2x980GTX, Aquaero 6, Solid Acrylic Custom Loop - Page 8

post #71 of 80
Thread Starter 
I'm back working on this build after a few weeks away due to both business mad.gif and vacation smile.gif - I have a few upgrades planned as i head towards completion of this build - My goal will be to try and get this done by the end of the summer/mid autumn.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Malum View Post

I personally would choose option number 1 but change one of dark on the sides to light grey so that you have dark grey, light grey, white and leave the mid section as it is in option one wink.gif

Lets call that one Option 5!


Going to take a look at each one and see which I like best
post #72 of 80
Thread Starter 
Sleeving/Colour decisions (part II)

I made up cables to try out each of the 24-pin sleeving options that have been suggested above - in each case I have photographed them together with the 4 pin cables I made up for the aquaero to see how these "tie in" together

Option 1 Template (Click to show)
1000

Light/Dark grey central band

Option 2 Template (Click to show)
1000

Dark/Light grey central band

Option 3 Template (Click to show)
1000

Solid Light grey central band

Option 4 Template (Click to show)
1000

Light grey/White central band

Option 5 Template (Click to show)

Light/Dark grey central band - with light strip on sides


I am leaning more towards option 2 and option 5 now
Edited by alstorm - 7/2/16 at 12:40pm
post #73 of 80
Option 2 or 5 for me as well!

-Jeffinslaw
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post #74 of 80
Thread Starter 
The build continues inching forward slowly - at the moment I am not too bothered about my slow progress as the PC is operational and is being used for my day-to-day machine. The cabling job on this PC is massive but the results, I am sure, will be worth it. It should also be a lot more "maintainable" than my previous PC build. This update covers the recent work on making and sleeving both the 24 pin cable and the 8 pin CPU cable.

Sleeving (Part I) - Motherboard CPU + 24 Pin

I worked out that the 8 pin CPU cable will bend in multiple directions as it passes through the cabling routing hole and then curves 180 degrees onto the Motherboard header. After some approximate "napkin math" I worked out that each individual cable would therefore need to be a slightly different length to allow these curves to happen more easily. The upshot of this is shown above when in progress - it looks really "ragged" but it should enable the cable to curve through around 270 degrees in 3 dimensions on the motherboard side, and 90 degrees on the PSU side


As with all my cables in this build I am stripping then tinning the wires. The tinned ends are then trimmed by a few mm, and finally soldered to the crimp connector before actually crimping them. This creates an incredibly strong crimp that should also be bullet-proof electrically


Once the cable is sleeved I end up with a cable that sort of curves naturally, the natural direction of curve of the wire off the reel is used to help this when constructed.


The 24 pin cable just curves through 270 degrees in one direction - as a result we use just 2 different lengths of cable (one for each row of pins) - It doesn't look it but its actually surprising how different the lengths are for a curve like this.


Crimped ends


... each wire is sleeved using the shrinkless method....
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeffinslaw View Post

Option 2 or 5 for me as well!
-Jeffinslaw

thumb.gif I agree - In the end I decided to go with option 2, I tried out both (with each one sat on the living room table for a few days last week to see how I liked it in passing)
Option 2 just looked better in my opinion, it was the one that made me think "that looks right" "that looks awesome" when I looked at it.




The end result is really nice


The new cables in position - I REALLY like the 24 pin it looks just as i envisaged and I think it will make for a pretty clean build assuming that I can do a good job on the GPU sleeving too.


Cabling in the rear/PSU side of the case - The 8 pin CPU cable is maybe 2-3 cm longer than I wished but I may be able to move things around a little and push some cable to the MB side to resolve some of this
post #75 of 80
Really nice job. Your electrical work is amazing!!! thumb.gif
post #76 of 80
Fantastic! That looks great smile.gif

-Jeffinslaw
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post #77 of 80
Very late to the party, but subbed as well!
Amazing job, congrats! thumb.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by alstorm View Post

As with all my cables in this build I am stripping then tinning the wires. The tinned ends are then trimmed by a few mm, and finally soldered to the crimp connector before actually crimping them. This creates an incredibly strong crimp that should also be bullet-proof electrically
I will try your method for my next custom sleeves, soldering the wire to the terminal looks like a good idea. +rep
Using a pre-crimped (thx Lutro0) terminal holding the wire for easy soldering will also help.
Do you have a pic, by any chance, of a soldered wire on a terminal before crimping? Interesting in seeing how much tin you use.
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post #78 of 80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BaK2BaK View Post

I will try your method for my next custom sleeves, soldering the wire to the terminal looks like a good idea. +rep
Using a pre-crimped (thx Lutro0) terminal holding the wire for easy soldering will also help.
Do you have a pic, by any chance, of a soldered wire on a terminal before crimping? Interesting in seeing how much tin you use.

This method has seemed to work very well for me so far - it obviously takes a lot more time to do though.

In all honesty it is probably not at all needed if you make good crimps, but hey this is overclock.net and overkill is usually the way to go thumb.gif - My thought was that soldering the wire to the crimp terminal before crimping would help ensure I get a strong/unbreakable crimp. Its effectively the same principle as using a dab of superglue on the wire ahead of actually pulling the sleeve taught as done by Lutro0 in his video guides for shrinkless sleeving.

I will see if I have a pic of the tinned ends and the temrinal in the crimp - and if I dont have one I will make a few pics the next time I am doing some crimping/sleeving.

In terms of amount of solder used - I just tin the ends of the wire so the wire is covered (without making a bulge) and then I melt that into the crimp by briefly resting the iron on top of the tinned wire. I don't ever add any solder because you still want the crimp tool to be able to close properly, and you definitely don't want to risk completely melting the wire's insulation as that would make the crimp weaker where it usually holds the insulation tight.
post #79 of 80
Awesome skillz !! +10^10 rep biggrin.gif
post #80 of 80
Quote:
Originally Posted by alstorm View Post

In terms of amount of solder used - I just tin the ends of the wire so the wire is covered (without making a bulge) and then I melt that into the crimp by briefly resting the iron on top of the tinned wire. I don't ever add any solder because you still want the crimp tool to be able to close properly, and you definitely don't want to risk completely melting the wire's insulation as that would make the crimp weaker where it usually holds the insulation tight.
That was indeed my main concern. Thanx for explaining your method more deeply, pics are always welcomed but I guess I understand how to proceed now.
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