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EK releases new L series kits (R2.0)

post #1 of 3
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EK releases new L series kits (R2.0)

EK Water Blocks, Ljubljana based premium water cooling gear manufacturer, is excited to introduce the new updated (R2.0) line of EK-KIT L series value orientated, yet powerful liquid cooling kits.

These new and improved kits are direct successors of world renown EK-KIT L series kits. In new revision EK Water Blocks has again prepared three differently sized models: EK-KIT L120 R2.0, L240 R2.0 and L360 2.0, the only difference between them being the size of the radiator and the number of accompanied fans.

The EK-KIT L series Revision 2.0 liquid cooling kits are designed for all users who seek simple, yet quality and efficient all-in-one solution, assembled from selected market proven components.

The main change is from the original revision is the new high-performing EK-Supremacy MX UNI water block and a more reliable and powerful pump/reservoir combo unit with Laing/Xylem DDC series PWM liquid cooling pump. EK-Vardar high-static pressure fans are now also standard on every L series kit.

Kits are easy to install, use and maintain, a thorough installation manual is included. Further descriptions and specifications of individual items can be found in EK Webshop.

These kits are fully upgradeable with additional EK-Thermosphere, EK-FB, EK-FC or EK-RAM series water blocks and are compatible with the following CPU sockets:
- Intel LGA-775
- Intel LGA-1366
- Intel LGA-1150/1155/1156
- Intel LGA-2011(-3)
- AMD Sockets: 939, 754, 940
- AMD Sockets: AM2(+), AM3(+), FM1, FM2(+)

Made in Slovenia - Europe!

All kits are readily available for purchase through EK Webshop and Partner Reseller Network. Bellow are the specs and MSRP with VAT included:


EK-KIT L120 R2.0
CPU Water Block : EK-Supremacy MX UNI
Radiator : EK-CoolStream PE 120
Water pump / reservoir unit : EK-XRES 100 DDC MX 3.1 PWM
Radiator fan : 1 x EK-Vardar F3-120 (1850rpm)
Tubing : EK-Tube ZMT Matte Black 15,9/9,5mm
Compression fittings : EK-ACF Fitting 10/16mm - Nickel
Coolant concentrate : EK-Ekoolant EVO CLEAR (conc.100mL)
MSRP (incl.VAT) 244,95€

EK-KIT L240 R2.0
CPU Water Block : EK-Supremacy MX UNI
Radiator : EK-CoolStream PE 240
Water pump / reservoir unit : EK-XRES 100 DDC MX 3.1 PWM
Radiator fan : 2 x EK-Vardar F3-120 (1850rpm)
Tubing : EK-Tube ZMT Matte Black 15,9/9,5mm
Compression fittings : EK-ACF Fitting 10/16mm - Nickel
Coolant concentrate : EK-Ekoolant EVO CLEAR (conc.100mL)
MSRP (incl.VAT) 259,95€

EK-KIT L360 R2.0
CPU Water Block : EK-Supremacy MX UNI
Radiator : EK-CoolStream PE 360
Water pump / reservoir unit : EK-XRES 100 DDC MX 3.1 PWM
Radiator fan : 3 x EK-Vardar F3-120 (1850rpm)
Tubing : EK-Tube ZMT Matte Black 15,9/9,5mm
Compression fittings : EK-ACF Fitting 10/16mm - Nickel
Coolant concentrate : EK-Ekoolant EVO CLEAR (conc.100mL)
MSRP (incl.VAT) 279,95€



Edited by akira749 - 5/8/15 at 6:02pm
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post #2 of 3
I just bought an L360 and I have some questions.

I have never tried to deal with a custom loop before so I have some questions. I got an L360 2.0 kit and I am going to be installing it on a Crosshair Z motherboard with an FX 8370E.

1) I have read conflicting information about which jet plate should be used with the MX. Some say the J4 is better because it's the least restrictive and was designed for an Intel chip which has cores nearer to the edges of the spreader (like an AMD FX). The J2 plate, as I recall, is thicker than even the J1, which is the opposite, then, of the J4 suggestion (that the FX would benefit from the thinnest plate). So, I'm confused about these recommendations. Also, some have said the jet plate makes a minimal difference (less than a degree).

Since there is no J4 with this kit I am wondering if J3 would then be the most optimal. Has anyone actually tested these inserts with the FX 8 cores to see if there is a real difference? Why would the thicker plate work better with the FX but not with 2011 v3?

2) The next thing is that I read a review of the EVO block and it had two inserts. The J2 insert was for AMD. I only see one loose insert with this kit and it's labeled I1. So, I assume insert 2 is already installed in the preassembled block?

Can I just use the preinstalled insert 2 with the J3 jetplate that's already installed (basically the 2011 v3 setup that's already there) and just swap the mounting plate for AMD? Or, will this significantly hamper performance. I really would like to avoid any extra steps where I could muck things up.

There is also a typo in the manual, it seems, under "Step 2: Table of Content." It says under "Additional Inserts and Jet plates" that the J1 plate is .3mm thick but the picture below and to the right says it's the J2 that's .3mm thick (J1 being .25mm thick).

3) The rotated "goofy" placement of the MX, according to one or two reviews, yielded better results with 2011 v3. Has anyone tested standard vs. rotated orientations with AMD FX 8 cores? It's only a degree of difference from what I've seen but I think I'd rather have that extra degree.

4) I assume I should flush the tubing and rinse the other stuff before filling up for the first time. Should I boil distilled water and let it cool down to the point where it's warm but not boiling? People suggested using hot tap water but I don't want any tap water near my stuff. Our tap water is loaded with minerals. I have also heard the suggestion of rinsing with vinegar and then flushing with distilled prior to installation. Is this a good idea?

5) The manual suggests pull orientation for the fans but every review, including watercooling shootouts, I've seen shows pull is the least optimal fan position. (Push is the most optimal for those with few fans and/or a thin radiator and push-pull the most optimal for thicker radiators. The radiator that comes with this kit was found, in one review, to have optimal performance for the push, not push-pull, configuration, when compared to the competition.) Some reviews don't even test pull only, which implies it's not worthwhile. Also, wouldn't having the fans inside the case pushing air through drop the noise level some?

6) Since nickle apparently isn't very compatible with silver coils, why use nickle at all? It seems like it would be simpler to just have people use plain distilled with a silver coil. Why bother with glycol, which has worse thermal qualities than distilled?

7) I am considering getting a VRM/northbridge EK block for my board (EK-FB ASUS C5F-Z). I found a supplier who still has it. What extras would I have to specifically get to use this block (adapters, fittings, etc.). I assume I would need to get a compression fitting but I don't know if there's anything else I would need, like some sort of adapter.
post #3 of 3
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by superstition222 View Post

I just bought an L360 and I have some questions.

I have never tried to deal with a custom loop before so I have some questions. I got an L360 2.0 kit and I am going to be installing it on a Crosshair Z motherboard with an FX 8370E.

1) I have read conflicting information about which jet plate should be used with the MX. Some say the J4 is better because it's the least restrictive and was designed for an Intel chip which has cores nearer to the edges of the spreader (like an AMD FX). The J2 plate, as I recall, is thicker than even the J1, which is the opposite, then, of the J4 suggestion (that the FX would benefit from the thinnest plate). So, I'm confused about these recommendations. Also, some have said the jet plate makes a minimal difference (less than a degree).

Since there is no J4 with this kit I am wondering if J3 would then be the most optimal. Has anyone actually tested these inserts with the FX 8 cores to see if there is a real difference? Why would the thicker plate work better with the FX but not with 2011 v3?

2) The next thing is that I read a review of the EVO block and it had two inserts. The J2 insert was for AMD. I only see one loose insert with this kit and it's labeled I1. So, I assume insert 2 is already installed in the preassembled block?

Can I just use the preinstalled insert 2 with the J3 jetplate that's already installed (basically the 2011 v3 setup that's already there) and just swap the mounting plate for AMD? Or, will this significantly hamper performance. I really would like to avoid any extra steps where I could muck things up.

There is also a typo in the manual, it seems, under "Step 2: Table of Content." It says under "Additional Inserts and Jet plates" that the J1 plate is .3mm thick but the picture below and to the right says it's the J2 that's .3mm thick (J1 being .25mm thick).

3) The rotated "goofy" placement of the MX, according to one or two reviews, yielded better results with 2011 v3. Has anyone tested standard vs. rotated orientations with AMD FX 8 cores? It's only a degree of difference from what I've seen but I think I'd rather have that extra degree.

4) I assume I should flush the tubing and rinse the other stuff before filling up for the first time. Should I boil distilled water and let it cool down to the point where it's warm but not boiling? People suggested using hot tap water but I don't want any tap water near my stuff. Our tap water is loaded with minerals. I have also heard the suggestion of rinsing with vinegar and then flushing with distilled prior to installation. Is this a good idea?

5) The manual suggests pull orientation for the fans but every review, including watercooling shootouts, I've seen shows pull is the least optimal fan position. (Push is the most optimal for those with few fans and/or a thin radiator and push-pull the most optimal for thicker radiators. The radiator that comes with this kit was found, in one review, to have optimal performance for the push, not push-pull, configuration, when compared to the competition.) Some reviews don't even test pull only, which implies it's not worthwhile. Also, wouldn't having the fans inside the case pushing air through drop the noise level some?

6) Since nickle apparently isn't very compatible with silver coils, why use nickle at all? It seems like it would be simpler to just have people use plain distilled with a silver coil. Why bother with glycol, which has worse thermal qualities than distilled?

7) I am considering getting a VRM/northbridge EK block for my board (EK-FB ASUS C5F-Z). I found a supplier who still has it. What extras would I have to specifically get to use this block (adapters, fittings, etc.). I assume I would need to get a compression fitting but I don't know if there's anything else I would need, like some sort of adapter.

1) I'm not familiar with AMD CPU's so it would be hard for me to tell you which Jet Plate would be better. Maybe @EK_tiborrr knows it.

2) Yes, the I2 insert is the one already installed in the MX thumb.gif I'm pretty sure you could keep the pre-install setup (no inserts or jet plates switch) and obtain some very nice performances. Thanks for the typo I will inform our guys.

3) Good question....I don't recall seeing a reviewer did those tests frown.gif

4) You don't need to clean any block or tubing out of the box. The only thing I would do is to flush the radiator with distilled water. Fill the rad and do the "shaky dance" and flush the water....do this 2-3 times and you should be good to go.

5) We used pull configuration on our Predator AIO which is mostly the same rad/fans config that you have in your kit. The Vardar fans are very good performers in pull config.

6) The kit comes with our EK-Ekoolant EVO so you don't need to use any kill coil or PT-Nuke. All the additives are already included in the coolant.

7) You only need to buy 2 more fittings. You should have enough extra tube from the kit. These are the fittings that would match the ones included in the kit : EK-ACF Fitting 10/16mm - Nickel
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i7 4790K EVGA Z97 Stinger WiFi EVGA GTX 980 Superclock G. Skill Ripjaws Z 8Gb DDR3-2400 
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