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[Official] Crossover 2795 QHD: PWM/Flicker Free Overclock-able Matte 1440p AH-IPS. - Page 130

post #1291 of 1999
Quote:
Originally Posted by BadRobot View Post

Randomly. When I left the gif running it did it quite a bit but still no more than 3-4 times before i stopped it and posted here. From then I left it at 96Hz with a lower LCD setting in CRU.

I overclocked it to 110Hz when I got it. Still had artifacts but nothing I couldn't live with. Since Windows 10 it can't do 110 anymore so 96 is what I keep it at.
Ever since you overlocked it back to 96hz, the issue ended? or still presist? and btw Whats the difference between C1 and C2?
post #1292 of 1999
Quote:
Originally Posted by chris92 View Post

Hey there, I'm planning to de-bezel my monitors once my other 2 arrive, and I've just gone ahead and done my first one (almost).

What does it look like underneath yours? I got the C2 panel for my first monitor from Helloemart, but my other two are coming from Green-Sum and I really hope they are the same!

If yours looks like my first one does Image (Click to show)
this was taken from the top, then you should be good to go if you follow this tutorial https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLnVkA6ZcoQv5piavGXZDJv3Wj2E4MT_iE up until he removes the panel from the case.

I've taken out the backlighting cable and it looks like this Image (Click to show)

Does yours look the same?

edit: I forgot to mention, this is how it can be done http://www.overclock.net/t/1404407/how-to-create-a-vesa-mount-after-debezelling-your-monitor-qnix-qx2710 there's heaps of examples of how people have done theirs.

ALSO! For anyone with a C1 monitor (I'm looking at you BadRobot), does yours look the same? I just want to be prepared in case I receive C1 monitors as my other two. I really hope they are the same though.

Yep. Looks exactly the same.

Quote:
Originally Posted by EyeChoose View Post


Whats the difference between C1 and C2?

Difference between C1 and C2: http://www.panelook.com/modelcompare.php?ids=19614,22566 pretty much nothing except one has more data filled in and the other doesn't on this comparison site.

And my issue of the screen turning off for a second or two then back on still persists. It starts showing red artifacts then turns off as if it can't handle the overclock.

edit: been trying to get ufo test to validate 96Hz but it's always 94-95 and then says I need to close plugins even though I loaded chrome without plugins and stuff.

For those wondering, add:"" --disable-extensions --disable-plugins --disable-plugin "" to the target line for the shortcut.
Edited by BadRobot - 11/9/15 at 5:54am
post #1293 of 1999
On my issue about the monitor turning off randomly for a second and turning back on: I believe it's because it can't hold 96Hz anymore since I upgraded to Windows 10 and updated the drivers too. Ufotest kept showing 94-95 and sometimes 96 fps on screen but never validated 96. I set CRU to LCD Native with 75Hz and it validated it. I'll see how it holds up before contacting ebay.

At 90Hz ufotest says "framerate varying" and it sticks to 88 or 89fps. It validated it a moment ago but now doesn't want to. I wish there was a more reliable way to test this.

Maybe I'll just buy a 144Hz freesync monitor instead tongue.gif
post #1294 of 1999
Many browsers can't validate UFOtest at high hz and everyone complains about it. Try Chrome after doing a reset of settings. I really doubt this issue is related to the other for you.
post #1295 of 1999
Just to report... my gtx 970 died an untimely death (memory went bonkers when it went to sleep for 30 mins... zzz - second time it's happened to me on an Nvidia card). The monitor is back to clocking 110Hz.with an R9 290. So the video cards definitely do matter... and for me I have better luck with AMD it seems.
post #1296 of 1999
Quote:
Originally Posted by Advil000 View Post

Many browsers can't validate UFOtest at high hz and everyone complains about it. Try Chrome after doing a reset of settings. I really doubt this issue is related to the other for you.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rissie View Post

Just to report... my gtx 970 died an untimely death (memory went bonkers when it went to sleep for 30 mins... zzz - second time it's happened to me on an Nvidia card). The monitor is back to clocking 110Hz.with an R9 290. So the video cards definitely do matter... and for me I have better luck with AMD it seems.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BadRobot View Post

On my issue about the monitor turning off randomly for a second and turning back on: I believe it's because it can't hold 96Hz anymore since I upgraded to Windows 10 and updated the drivers too. Ufotest kept showing 94-95 and sometimes 96 fps on screen but never validated 96. I set CRU to LCD Native with 75Hz and it validated it. I'll see how it holds up before contacting ebay.

At 90Hz ufotest says "framerate varying" and it sticks to 88 or 89fps. It validated it a moment ago but now doesn't want to. I wish there was a more reliable way to test this.

Maybe I'll just buy a 144Hz freesync monitor instead tongue.gif
How long is the average life span of a korean monitor before it breaks down?
especially crossover?
because my asus, samsung monitor is about 5-6 years old and is still working perfectly fine, im worried that crossover breaks down in a year or 2?
post #1297 of 1999
Quote:
Originally Posted by EyeChoose View Post



How long is the average life span of a korean monitor before it breaks down?
especially crossover?
because my asus, samsung monitor is about 5-6 years old and is still working perfectly fine, im worried that crossover breaks down in a year or 2?

I guess you can check back in three years or so... the monitor hasn't been out that long. There just isn't enough data to tell you how long it'll last.
post #1298 of 1999
Quote:
Originally Posted by EyeChoose View Post



How long is the average life span of a korean monitor before it breaks down?
especially crossover?
because my asus, samsung monitor is about 5-6 years old and is still working perfectly fine, im worried that crossover breaks down in a year or 2?

Hard to tell. It's not a company that's been around for years and years, so really you have other "cheap korean IPS monitors" as a base to compare it to.

The thing I've noticed seems to fail the most on them is the external power brick, which is ok, as a replacement can be had for around $40 usually. That still is something you see happen after about three years of use. Sometimes sooner, sometimes later.

I have an Auria monitor, which if I recall was just a rebranded XSTAR or something like that. It was one of the korean monitors, being resold in the US at microcenter (which a US warranty was comforting) but I've had the thing for three years now, as of last month. The power brick died two months ago. I found one on Amazon for $50. It was business as usual.

The panels in these korean monitors are always rejected LG and Samsung panels. They produce panels in batches (not sure of the number, but let's say 50) then they test a few. If a single one has an issue (example, dead pixels), they just sell off the entire batch of 50 at a very low price.
They go back and check the production to see what caused the faulty panel, dead pixels) but more often than not, most of the panels are still ok. LG and Samsung don't want to waste the time and money to test them, but the companies like Crossover just buy up the rejected panels for dirt cheap, and test them to see if they have any major flaws. If not, they chuck them in their much cheaper chassis.

So the panel you are getting is still made by a very reputable company.
post #1299 of 1999

Anyone have audible hums with these monitors?

So I almost pulled the trigger on one of these today. I'm tired of having one 1440 monitor next to one 1080. Two of the same size and resolution seems to make a lot more sense to me.

Well, I was checking eBay and I see the regular listing, "Perfect Pixel" and then one I had never seen before "Ultimate"

Ultimate was around $400 and they claimed to test everything out more, but then I noticed something that somewhat freaked me out. They said an audible hum isn't considered a defect... I could not handle my monitor making an audible, high pitched, electrical hum all the time.


(I just posted, but the last one was a response to a user. I feel like it makes more sense to do this as another post as I am asking a question to everyone now, rather than addressing the one user. Let me know if this goes against any rules and I will correct my mistake, and not make it again.)
Edited by rolfathan - 11/10/15 at 1:36pm
post #1300 of 1999
Mine is silent...confused.gif
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Overclock.net › Forums › Components › Monitors and Displays › [Official] Crossover 2795 QHD: PWM/Flicker Free Overclock-able Matte 1440p AH-IPS.