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post #111 of 510
Eisberg can do it too, right? So the power should be similar, and it will probably be more silent. Great, can't wait to see wink.gif I hope Eisbear will be out untill the end of the year biggrin.gif
post #112 of 510
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hiryougan View Post

Eisberg can do it too, right? So the power should be similar, and it will probably be more silent. Great, can't wait to see wink.gif I hope Eisbear will be out untill the end of the year biggrin.gif

the Eisbear will be more suited to it and also dead silent tongue.gif
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post #113 of 510
Quote:
Originally Posted by AT-Pascal View Post

the Eisbear will be more suited to it and also dead silent tongue.gif

any idea what sort of pump would be inside and if it would be similar to the fractal kelvin which uses the DC-LT?
post #114 of 510
Can you guys add the copper plates from these kits so i can order extras as new gpus come out?
http://www.aquatuning.us/water-cooling/gpu-water-blocks/gpu-vrm-cooler/14786/watercool-heatkiller-microsw-x-60-diy
post #115 of 510
Quote:
Originally Posted by akromatic View Post

any idea what sort of pump would be inside and if it would be similar to the fractal kelvin which uses the DC-LT?

its a new one tongue.gif details soon.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dsmwookie View Post

Can you guys add the copper plates from these kits so i can order extras as new gpus come out?
http://www.aquatuning.us/water-cooling/gpu-water-blocks/gpu-vrm-cooler/14786/watercool-heatkiller-microsw-x-60-diy

not sure what you mean here.
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post #116 of 510
The bottom plate on the DIY block. We currently have no access to a new plate when we want to change to a new GPU and need to design that copper bottom to fit a different VRM design.


Also, will this backplate work with the GPX or Heatkiller universal gpu block?
Edited by dsmwookie - 9/14/15 at 11:05am
post #117 of 510
Guys sorry for the noob question, ALPHACOOL sent me compression fittings with this legend at the back



for what i understand that 13/10mm means i have to use this tubing ?

http://www.alphacool.com/product_info.php/info/p495_Hose-Masterkleer-13-10mm-UV--reactive--blue--3-8-ID-.html

I'm lost because i never used compressions and always used 1/2 ID Tubing and 3/4 OD

Can you clear this for me please ?

Thanks a bunch
Sergio
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post #118 of 510
Soft tubing is generally available in imperial (inches vs mm) sizing only, although some companies list them in metric anyway since there is usually enough play to approximate them to metric. Ditto with soft tube compression fittings. Either way, you will definitely need to get 1/2" x 3/8" (13 x 10mm approximated there) tubing for those fittings and your 3/4" x 1/2" tubing won't work. If those fittings are actually 13 x 10 mm in size then they will have a hard time fitting into 1/2" x 3/8" tubing.
post #119 of 510
On my first watercooling build, I used to Nexxxos ST45 280 mm radiators, which worked beautifully and still do. I use them to cool a 4790k @ 4600 MHz, and two GTX 980s @ 1524 MHz/8000 MHz. At idle, my CPU is about 24C and my GPUs are 29C, and under full load the CPU goes up to 72C and the GPUs to 45C.

Because of this positive experience, I chose Alphacool for my current build in an NZXT Phantom 630: an ST45 360 mm on top of the case, and a UT60 240 mm on the bottom. I completed the build, and filed the res for leak testing, and before I even turned on the pump, I had a major leak from the bottom rad. I disassembled the loop and removed the rad to test it by itself, and it had three leaks on one side and one on the other. No bent fins. I guess the problem was bad soldering inside the rad. At any rate, it was useless. I threw it out and replaced it with an EK rad which worked perfectly. Of course, this not only added considerable expense to my build, it also delayed it for a couple of weeks.

I posted about this on other threads here on OCN, and discovered that my experience with the UT60 was far from unique. Perhaps potential builders will become aware of this and stay away from UT60 rads until whatever the manufacturing or QC problem is gets fixed.
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Eldorado
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RAMHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
Corsair Dominator Platinum 2133 MHz Intel 730 Samsung 850 Pro Asus DRW-24B1ST 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
EK Supremacy EVO nickel-plexi Monsoon Free Center compression fittings (gold) PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT crystal clear Alphacool 140mm 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Aquaero 6 Pro EK-FC Titan X - Nickel (x2) Alphacool Nexxxos XT45 280 mm Black Ice GTS 280 x 60 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
aquacomputer d5 pump mechanics with usb and aqu... Bitspower Dual D5 Mod Top - POM Version Bitspower D5 / MCP655 Pump Mod Top S Model - Ac... Bitspower Water Tank Z-Multi 150 Inline Reservo... 
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CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
EK Supremacy EVO Nickel Plexi EK Titan X Original CSQ Monsoon free center compression fittings 1/2-3/4 Masterkleer Clear UV 1/2-3/4 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Mayhems X1 UV clear coolant Aquacomputer Aquaero 6 Pro Aquacomputer Flow Sensor MPS 400 USB EK Coolstream XE 240 mm 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Noctua NF-F12 Industrial PPC 2000 pwm Aquacomputer D5 PWM Bitspower D5 mod top Bitspower D5 mod kit 
CoolingOSPowerCase
Bitspower Water Tank Z Multi 100 Windows 10 Pro Corsair HX1000i NZXT Phantom 630 
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Samsung 950 PRO -Series 256GB PCIe NVMe - M.2 I... Pioneer Electronics Internal Blu-Ray Writer (BD... EK Coolstream SE 240  EK Coolstream SE120 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Swiftech MCP655 PWM EK-XRES 100 Revo D5 Pump Top/Reservoir - Acetal EK-FB ASUS M8G Monoblock - Nickel EK-FC Titan X/GTX980 Ti Waterblock - Nickel 
CoolingCoolingCoolingOS
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post #120 of 510
Quote:
Originally Posted by jvillaveces View Post

On my first watercooling build, I used to Nexxxos ST45 280 mm radiators, which worked beautifully and still do. I use them to cool a 4790k @ 4600 MHz, and two GTX 980s @ 1524 MHz/8000 MHz. At idle, my CPU is about 24C and my GPUs are 29C, and under full load the CPU goes up to 72C and the GPUs to 45C.

Because of this positive experience, I chose Alphacool for my current build in an NZXT Phantom 630: an ST45 360 mm on top of the case, and a UT60 240 mm on the bottom. I completed the build, and filed the res for leak testing, and before I even turned on the pump, I had a major leak from the bottom rad. I disassembled the loop and removed the rad to test it by itself, and it had three leaks on one side and one on the other. No bent fins. I guess the problem was bad soldering inside the rad. At any rate, it was useless. I threw it out and replaced it with an EK rad which worked perfectly. Of course, this not only added considerable expense to my build, it also delayed it for a couple of weeks.

I posted about this on other threads here on OCN, and discovered that my experience with the UT60 was far from unique. Perhaps potential builders will become aware of this and stay away from UT60 rads until whatever the manufacturing or QC problem is gets fixed.

That is very strange and the alphacool rads in general have a very very small RMA rate and they are all tested under pressure before leaving the factory.
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