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ASUS X99 Sabertooth Owners Thread - Page 58

post #571 of 2007
Quote:
Originally Posted by m0n4g3 View Post

Dude... i've never had to do this once in the time i've had the board, and i've had PLENTY of times where i needed to clear the cmos, and the jumper has done fine. The whole point of the jumper is to cut power from the battery to the CMOS to clear it AFAIK.

Read the manual a bit closer, it clears RTC ram, but not the CMOS. That's why they show two procedures in the manual..

Not needing to do this, hey if it works for you then great, but if you're having hardware issues after changing the BIOS then it's worth the troubleshooting effort.

I'm going to buy an Android device just for my Sabertooth x99, so I never have to remove the battery again (I too have 2 video cards).
post #572 of 2007
Quote:
Originally Posted by m0n4g3 View Post

Dude... i've never had to do this once in the time i've had the board, and i've had PLENTY of times where i needed to clear the cmos, and the jumper has done fine. The whole point of the jumper is to cut power from the battery to the CMOS to clear it AFAIK.

+1 on this. You really don;t need to go that far to erase BIOS settings. This is 128MB fully programmable UEFI we are talking about, not the old school 128k CMOS.
post #573 of 2007
Quote:
Originally Posted by Undermoose View Post

What is AIO?

OC?, I have no idea what I'm doing! Sure, bump the speed, bump the voltage, bump this, bump that, but really I love XMP biggrin.gif

If you detail an OC spec I'll give it a shot.
I have 2 R9 Fury, tried unlocking them both and got massive artifacts in 3D Mark, reverted back. I have one being replaced now due to a bad display port, so I might try again one at a time, but honestly with 2 in Crossfire I am simply not going to notice any significant performance increase unlocking them. 5 percent maybe? It's not worth the risk of bricking them fiddling.
I said I think XMP has been improved for my rig, but I'm the only report so far with Corsair Dominator ram.

I have everything on Auto, so it set CPU & BLCK @ 100, I didn't adjust anything. It looks like XMP behaves differently for other ram manufacturers / kits, I'm not surprised.

I may never update this system BIOS since 2101 is working great! thumb.gif

Well once Broadwell-E comes out and you want some new CPU then you will have no choice but to update BIOS.tongue.gif

AIO is All In One closed loop liquid CPU cooling.

OC and XMP goes well together. Are you ready for some OC? Let's go!

1. Go to AITuning in advanced settings.
2. Sync All Core ratio together
3. Since you are using 100BCLK, set core multiplier to 41. This should give you a 4.1GHz OC.
4. Set vcore to offset mode, enter +190mv. This should be more than enough for a solid 4.1GHz OC.
5. Run some tests and let us know the result.





However I can already predict what the result is gonna be: biggrin.gif

"Yeah the system OC pretty good, score bumped up xxx in xxx benchmark, but I am gonna go back to my sweet XMP default setting." hahahaha
post #574 of 2007
Woohoo! We're back. Thanks to @xkm1948, @Undermoose, @m0n4g3, I'm back in my happy place (that is, a 4.375 OC, 125 x 35) at DDR4-3000 using BIOS 2101.

Here's what worked for me thanks to the guys above:

1. Power off, pull power cable
2. Move the CLRTC over
3. Wait 10 secs
4. Move the CLRTC back
5. Power up, enter BIOS
6. Set overclocking to XMP, select the only profile I have (DDR4-3000, 1.35v)
7. Set ram voltage to 1.36 (may not be needed)
8. Set VCCIN to 1.905 (the board rounded it to 1.910)
9. Change SA from Auto to 1.18 (I chose dead in the middle from the numbers m0n4g3 posted)
10. Save and exit

At this point the machine powered off instead of rebooting but that's back to the way it was before I moved to 2101 so I'm used to that.

Ran Prime95, no problem,
Ran RealBench and came up with 100,641. That'll do for now until I can get back to pushing the OC.

Glad you guys and this forum are here!
post #575 of 2007
Quote:
Originally Posted by InfiniteImp View Post

Woohoo! We're back. Thanks to @xkm1948, @Undermoose, @m0n4g3, I'm back in my happy place (that is, a 4.375 OC, 125 x 35) at DDR4-3000 using BIOS 2101.

Here's what worked for me thanks to the guys above:

1. Power off, pull power cable
2. Move the CLRTC over
3. Wait 10 secs
4. Move the CLRTC back
5. Power up, enter BIOS
6. Set overclocking to XMP, select the only profile I have (DDR4-3000, 1.35v)
7. Set ram voltage to 1.36 (may not be needed)
8. Set VCCIN to 1.905 (the board rounded it to 1.910)
9. Change SA from Auto to 1.18 (I chose dead in the middle from the numbers m0n4g3 posted)
10. Save and exit

At this point the machine powered off instead of rebooting but that's back to the way it was before I moved to 2101 so I'm used to that.

Ran Prime95, no problem,
Ran RealBench and came up with 100,641. That'll do for now until I can get back to pushing the OC.

Glad you guys and this forum are here!

What mhz + voltage on the core?

I would put it to 1.3v and see how far you can push the cpu multi.

Set it to 36 and see if it boots @ those voltages.

Also i set my LLC to 6 anymore seems to be a waste.

Edit: nvm seen up the top the mhz, just let me know voltage.
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(23 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
Intel I7-5930k Asus Sabertooth X99 MSI 980ti Reference MSI 980ti Reference 
RAMHard DriveCoolingCooling
16GB (4x4GB) Corsair LPX DDR4 3000 CL15 Samsung 840 PRO SSD XSPC 360MM RAD XSPC 360MM RAD 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
DangerDan BayRES EK Supremacy EVO Copper Acetal EK 980TI Waterblock EK 980TI Waterblock 
CoolingOSMonitorKeyboard
D5 Pump Windows 10 Home Retail Phillips 40" 4k Logitech G910 Orion Spark 
PowerCaseMouseMouse Pad
Silverstone 1100w PSU Xigmatek Elysium Logitech G500s Razer Goliathus Control edition 
AudioAudioAudio
Hifiman HE-400 Matrix M-Stage headphone amp Cambridge Audio DACMagic 100 
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Primary
(23 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
Intel I7-5930k Asus Sabertooth X99 MSI 980ti Reference MSI 980ti Reference 
RAMHard DriveCoolingCooling
16GB (4x4GB) Corsair LPX DDR4 3000 CL15 Samsung 840 PRO SSD XSPC 360MM RAD XSPC 360MM RAD 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
DangerDan BayRES EK Supremacy EVO Copper Acetal EK 980TI Waterblock EK 980TI Waterblock 
CoolingOSMonitorKeyboard
D5 Pump Windows 10 Home Retail Phillips 40" 4k Logitech G910 Orion Spark 
PowerCaseMouseMouse Pad
Silverstone 1100w PSU Xigmatek Elysium Logitech G500s Razer Goliathus Control edition 
AudioAudioAudio
Hifiman HE-400 Matrix M-Stage headphone amp Cambridge Audio DACMagic 100 
  hide details  
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post #576 of 2007
Quote:
Originally Posted by xkm1948 View Post

+1 on this. You really don;t need to go that far to erase BIOS settings. This is 128MB fully programmable UEFI we are talking about, not the old school 128k CMOS.

Read the manual. They wouldn't list a procedure to clear RTC ram AND then another to clear CMOS if it wasn't something that needs to be done at times. Oh how I wish this wasn't the way it is...

Go buy an Andriod like I'm going to do and you'll never need to pull the battery again.
post #577 of 2007
Quote:
Originally Posted by Undermoose View Post



Read the manual. They wouldn't list a procedure to clear RTC ram AND then another to clear CMOS if it wasn't something that needs to be done at times. Oh how I wish this wasn't the way it is...

Go buy an Andriod like I'm going to do and you'll never need to pull the battery again.

I have an old S4 and I have been using the TUF Detective since day1. It is pretty neat.
post #578 of 2007
Quote:
Originally Posted by m0n4g3 View Post

What mhz + voltage on the core?

I would put it to 1.3v and see how far you can push the cpu multi.

Set it to 36 and see if it boots @ those voltages.

Also i set my LLC to 6 anymore seems to be a waste.

Edit: nvm seen up the top the mhz, just let me know voltage.

CPU voltage is on auto and the board is setting it to 1.28. Max I saw (AISuite) while stressed with Prime95 was 1.344.

LLC is on auto - Looks like the board is running it at level 9.

I'll mess with the multiplier later. Enough for one day, but you can be assured that I WILL push it. With a really good loop and the low temps I'm seeing I really should be able to do way better.
post #579 of 2007
Quote:
Originally Posted by xkm1948 View Post

I have an old S4 and I have been using the TUF Detective since day1. It is pretty neat.

Didn't even know about that one. I have a Galaxy S6 Edge+. What's the process to get that working with the board? I'm guessing it has something built in to clear the BIOS?
post #580 of 2007
There is a horizontal usb port on the back. Plug in with a micro-usb cable and connect it to your phone. It will be able to give you control over your system. You need to install TUF detective from Google Play Store though. TBH the andriod software is supper buggy, check google reviews in the store for yourself.

I kinda want the new TUF Detective 2 on the new Z170S, because the new one is through WiFi. Honestly speaking I rarely use the function. It serves as a POST code display as well as hardware monitor. I had one on my old Maximus Formula. Since TUF is a thinned down version of R5E this is offered as a replacement of the OC Panel.
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