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a small video about homemade mouse cable - Page 7

post #61 of 149
Thread Starter 

no, I use only 550. And some colors of 550 paracord are already thight and more difficult to sleeve than other. 

I see also no real benefit in using thinner paracord. For the flexibility it is better to have more room for the inner cables I think.

 

Try it by your own. 

post #62 of 149
I'm still not really following what you did. Did I miss another post detailing this? Did you take the original mouse cable and strip it? Did you remove the rubber underneath as well? I'm really interested in doing this.
post #63 of 149
Thread Starter 

Ok, it is not a DIY tutorial video but you see all components to build a complete new cable. 

I use nothing from the original cable! The inner copper wires from original cables are thick and not that flexible. 

 

The copper wires I use are thinner and more flexible (linked in the thread). 

 

Stripping is a good alternative if you would like to keep it simple. And of course really better than original.

If you could solder, it is also possible to replace the inner cables and solder the cables direct to the pcb. That is good, if you wouldn't change your mouse/cable combination. 

post #64 of 149
Quote:
Originally Posted by CeeSA View Post

Ok, it is not a DIY tutorial video but you see all components to build a complete new cable. 
I use nothing from the original cable! The inner copper wires from original cables are thick and not that flexible. 

The copper wires I use are thinner and more flexible (linked in the thread). 

Stripping is a good alternative if you would like to keep it simple. And of course really better than original.
If you could solder, it is also possible to replace the inner cables and solder the cables direct to the pcb. That is good, if you wouldn't change your mouse/cable combination. 

I've had experience with some mouse cables not working with certain mice when swapped. Is this a possible issue with some mice?

Anyway, I don't think I'll be making a full new cable. I have a scrap G100s cable that I've stripped of the rubber. Could I sleeve it through the paracord and use some heat shrink tubing at the ends to secure it? That's the simplest way I could come up with. Would the 550 paracord be too loose?
post #65 of 149
Thread Starter 

Did you set the right color code / pin arrangement? Database Link

 

Yes, you could sleeve the cable from the G100s. 550 paracord will fit great. Imo there is no "too loose". See post #61.

Try smaller paracord, but it is way harder. 

post #66 of 149
Quote:
Originally Posted by CeeSA View Post

Did you set the right color code / pin arrangement? Database Link

Yes, you could sleeve the cable from the G100s. 550 paracord will fit great. Imo there is no "too loose". See post #61.
Try smaller paracord, but it is way harder. 

Aha! That'll be the problem. No, I never changed anything about the cable, just took it straight from one mouse and put it in the other. Tried to use a G400 cable with the Ninox Aurora at one point but never worked. Thanks for that thread biggrin.gif

I'll order some 550 paracord and heat shrink tubing and see what I can cook up. Thanks
Edited by m0uz - 3/16/16 at 3:54am
post #67 of 149
Quote:
Originally Posted by m0uz View Post

I'm still not really following what you did. Did I miss another post detailing this? Did you take the original mouse cable and strip it? Did you remove the rubber underneath as well? I'm really interested in doing this.

ThuNDA posted a guide here.
post #68 of 149
Would it be cool to use solid copper wire (like in cat 5 ethernet cables) over stranded? Also, what usb housing should I use?
post #69 of 149
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by LegoFarmer View Post

Would it be cool to use solid copper wire (like in cat 5 ethernet cables) over stranded?...

sorry, I don't understand.

The cable inside a CAT5 cable are solid copper with rubber coating. Iirc they could be very stiff.

 

The cable I use and already linked in the thread are also copper with rubber coating.

The kind of rubber or plastik coating makes here the difference for a cable that thin.

 

For the USB Plug housing and internals here are some ebay sellers:

http://www.ebay.de/itm/2-x-Hearty-USB-DIY-Connector-Shell-Type-A-Male-Plug-/131660427429?hash=item1ea792b0a5:g:g6MAAOSwtExVgeA5

http://www.ebay.de/itm/10Stk-Neu-USB2-0-A-Type-Plug-4-pin-Male-Adapter-Connector-Jack-Plastic-Cover-/121627845958?hash=item1c5195a546:g:ZRgAAOSwNSxVMOD~

 

The transparent housing is from a german seller (voelkner). Did not found it at ebay...


Edited by CeeSA - 3/16/16 at 9:23am
post #70 of 149
Quote:
Originally Posted by CeeSA View Post

sorry, I don't understand.
The cable inside a CAT5 cable are solid copper with rubber coating. Iirc they could be very stiff.

The cable I use and already linked in the thread are also copper with rubber coating.
The kind of rubber or plastik coating makes here the difference for a cable that thin.

For the USB Plug housing and internals here are some ebay sellers:
http://www.ebay.de/itm/2-x-Hearty-USB-DIY-Connector-Shell-Type-A-Male-Plug-/131660427429?hash=item1ea792b0a5:g:g6MAAOSwtExVgeA5
http://www.ebay.de/itm/10Stk-Neu-USB2-0-A-Type-Plug-4-pin-Male-Adapter-Connector-Jack-Plastic-Cover-/121627845958?hash=item1c5195a546:g:ZRgAAOSwNSxVMOD~

The transparent housing is from a german seller (voelkner). Did not found it at ebay...
Where can I get that copper in the US?
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