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[Build Log] SILENT IRONY - Phanteks Primo, water cooled, xfire, dual 480s, mods - Page 13

post #121 of 132
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rainmaker91 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Faster_is_better View Post

I'm not sure what they are made of, seems like brushed/textured aluminum. It doesn't feel like the type of metal that would bend though, rather just break. I can't imagine them being worth RMAing either, bought from Aquatuning so shipping would likely be killer lol.

It had to have at least a 4mm bend to it, maybe even like 7mm if you lay one end down and measured up to the other end bowed up. Maybe another day when I have to take it apart I'll see if one of them bends.... or breaks...

It actually fit fairly well with the washers, maybe just some thicker thermal pads between the card PCB and the backplate would work well also.

alu bends quite easily actually, if you want do be extra sure you can always heat it up a bit to help (put it in the oven for a bit then bend using oven mits). Most backplates are alu, but if it's from something like high carbon steel instead then you will break it imideatly if you try to bend it without heating (it would also be terribly hard to do due to the rigid nature of igh carbon steel).

I'll probably try it next time I break it down, or if it's too annoying running so warm and I decide to take it apart again anyway.

Well product description says it is Aluminum (anodized). Would anodization make it more brittle? If not it would probably bend just fine. thinking.gif
post #122 of 132
No but the anodizing can be brittle. Just go slow and you should have no issue. smile.gif

Personally I would use a heat gun on lowest setting to gradually heat it, over using an oven but that's just me. Shouldn't take too long to heat it up and keep a spray bottle set to mist to let you know when the metal is thoroughly heated. Think of it like checking an Iron to make sure it's hot. thumb.gif

~Ceadder smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif
 
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post #123 of 132
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceadderman View Post

No but the anodizing can be brittle. Just go slow and you should have no issue. smile.gif

Personally I would use a heat gun on lowest setting to gradually heat it, over using an oven but that's just me. Shouldn't take too long to heat it up and keep a spray bottle set to mist to let you know when the metal is thoroughly heated. Think of it like checking an Iron to make sure it's hot. thumb.gif

~Ceadder smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif

That could work to, I jsut figured I would mention an oven as I have no clue if Faster_Is_better has a heat gun. The best would probably be to use a Oxy Acetylene Torch and heat it like you would steel, but ehn again I guess that is more of a niche tool than a heatgun tongue.gif The great thing about aluminium is it's low melting point (660*c), so it's quite easy to heat up to work with. In fact I have even been contemplating doing some casting with aluminium since it's so easy to melt (What I really want is to build a real iron age forge, but really I can't indulge all of my interests to much).
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post #124 of 132
Thread Starter 
Yep, tools are generally no problem, my dad has basically everything lol. Only thing with using heat, I'm not sure if it would discolor the backplate. The anodizing might resist that though.

These 390 BIOS I'm using are a bit strange. It turned my best clocking card into the poorer clocking card, and I think both cards lost at least 20-30 mhz core OC potential. I haven't done any benching marathons to really compare actual performance difference between them though.

I've been PGing ARK to much to really do anything else, build still looks like frankenstein tongue.gif
post #125 of 132
Thread Starter 
Might as well add a few more pics of progress. I actually decided to just slap on all the panels to try and keep a bit of dust out for now, until I take some proper pics. That will require me to actually move the case, so I am putting it off... lol

I think my Phanteks "PWM" hub may have broke during modding, I couldn't seem to get it to work again and decided it wasn't worth messing with anymore so I put in this Lamptron controller. Probably not my final solution as I have more plans for modding on this build but it will work until then. It is controlling the 4x 24mm fans up top, my Darkside LED strip and the 140mm fan in front.


Added the Phanteks 140mm fan in front for a little extra intake


Wiring mess shots. I did attempt to do a little cable management, I used some of that plastic cable loom covering on the left side to tidy up the fan wires a bit. A few pieces of velcro strap here and there tongue.gif


Wiring mess continued. What's that saying for a mullet? Business in front and party in the back? something like that going on in this build lol...


New mod idea - Building an acrylic diffuser for the back of my sound card.
So my sound card has 2 BRIGHT red LED's and if the case is tilted just the right angle they would blind me, so I thought about making a little acrylic diffuser to insert on the back of the card and tone it down.


Little bit of templating onto the test piece


I got this chunk free at a yard sale, figured I would mess with it and see how it cuts/sands etc.



A lot thicker than I actually wanted to use anywhere but it's for testing only...


I drew out another template for a custom mounting block, but didn't even attempt to cut it out after the first mess.



I don't have the other pics for the end result of the first cutout but basically this material + jigsaw = bad. It just melted as it cut and didn't work so I'm thinking a bandsaw may do the job better or maybe even a handsaw. I don't have a bandsaw handy to test with and this mod isn't worth manually sawing tongue.gif I may play with it another day, but it is on the list of other acrylic mods that I have to outsource to get done right anyway.
Edited by Faster_is_better - 9/30/15 at 10:47am
post #126 of 132
Have you tried a coping saw? Would probably get better results from that than a jig saw which under power puts off a lot of friction heat where with the coping saw you couldn't possibly get enough momentum to cause the material to melt. Without help that is. smile.gif

~Ceadder smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif
 
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post #127 of 132
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceadderman View Post

Have you tried a coping saw? Would probably get better results from that than a jig saw which under power puts off a lot of friction heat where with the coping saw you couldn't possibly get enough momentum to cause the material to melt. Without help that is. smile.gif

~Ceadder smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif

Had to look up that one, looks a bit like a hacksaw, which I did try but promptly gave up using lol. It probably wouldn't be to bad if it wasn't super thick, to hand saw or whatever.
post #128 of 132
Quote:
Originally Posted by Faster_is_better View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceadderman View Post

Have you tried a coping saw? Would probably get better results from that than a jig saw which under power puts off a lot of friction heat where with the coping saw you couldn't possibly get enough momentum to cause the material to melt. Without help that is. smile.gif

~Ceadder smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif

Had to look up that one, looks a bit like a hacksaw, which I did try but promptly gave up using lol. It probably wouldn't be to bad if it wasn't super thick, to hand saw or whatever.

coping1.gif

Trust me the blade is 1/5 the depth of a hacksaw. If you check one out in your local hardware store, you would never mistake it for one either. thumb.gif

Basically it's the same blade as a Jigsaw. Just not powered. smile.gif

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post #129 of 132
Thread Starter 
I took some potato pics without moving my rig, shows it "complete" and some of the lighting effects.

Custom "ambient light bar" tongue.gif It's kind of nice to turn off the room lights and just leave this CCFL on.


It's a Logisys white CCFL that I have ghetto wired into my Primo 12v, actually turns on/off with the LED switch built into the case.


Dark room shot


Overall case lighting (so far) in a dark room


I have my Temp sensor hanging in the back at the moment, its best place for me to see it with the angle of my rig.


Darkside 12" LED light in the back, super bright and very nice. Brightness controlled via my fan controller.


Room has lights on here, pics make it more pinkish and also I think that dark tinted window doesn't help...



Here is the piece I cut out and gave up on. It wouldn't be so bad of a cut if it didn't immediately melt the material and reglue itself back together right after the cut.


I'll have to revisit that acrylic another time...

All of these shots were with my new (refurb) camera I picked up just to haul around and not worry about since it was cheap. Definitely doesn't handle dark shots well and overall quite a lot worse than the usual camera I use. It will do for everything else though and macro shots with lighting look good. Canon Powershot SX170 IS if anyone wondered.
post #130 of 132
Ima take a few lessons out of this....
 
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