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[Official] AMD R9 390/390X Owners Club - Page 640

post #6391 of 11900
Quote:
Originally Posted by tolis626 View Post

Been playing more these last few days (I finally have time to get to finishing WItcher 2. I want to play 3 so bad, but want to finish 2 first.) and the only thing I can say is, man, these cards do NOT like voltage or temps. I can run 1100/1625MHz at -40mV no problem, but need like +70mV for 1150MHz to get no artifacts or driver crashes in Witcher 2. Then there's the fact that, for a while, I can run 1160/1625MHz at +30mV or something stupid like that and games like BF4 are fine, for the most part. Not Witcher 2 though, the driver crashes after a while. Like, seriously, what's up with this game? I'm running it at 1440p VSR, everything max and ubersampling off.

Then again, going past 1150MHz on the core (and thus needing more voltage) doesn't improve my benchmarks at all and just adds heat when gaming. My cooling can handle it, but there's the noise. If it was improving performance I wouldn't really mind, but it's not, so... Yeah.

And one more thing. How the hell are people getting 1750MHz on their cards? Especially MSI ones. Or is it mine that's a bad overclocker? I'm depressed... frown.gif

Witcher 2 is a killer. I had three OC settings for my 290, all tested to be stable through dozens of games and benchmarks, including such favorites as Crysis 3, Sleeping Dogs, looped 3DMark11, FFXIV benchmark... I'm talking about hundreds of hours of usage through a whole bunch of graphics-heavy titles.

Then I finally got to Witcher 2 and it artifacted within a couple of minutes, throwing black texture bugs and finally crashing the driver. With all three "stable" settings. It's possible that it was just the temperatures since I had ubersampling on and seriously, nothing else that I've run with VSR or resolution scaling up to 2160p hasn't raised the temps like W2 with ubersampling. So clearly W2 is one of the most critical Hawaii stability tests, in my experience even the most difficult one. Of course, I haven't even tried W3 yet... redface.gif
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post #6392 of 11900
Replaced thermal paste on my MSI 390x. Dropped temps by 10c in a 30 min heaven run at 1150/1650 +35Mv fan 80% Pretty awesome.
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post #6393 of 11900
I did something similar. Put CLU on the die and my temps went from 83->75C and fan speed went from 83->59%. This is also with a MSI 390X. VRM temps went down by 1C. Gotta love liquid metal.
post #6394 of 11900
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stige View Post

Just standard solder there between the pipe and the copper block? I will so frickin do this soon myself, it should be a massive improvement in VRM temps.

Using 13mm copper tubing, I can just tighten the tubing straight into the copper pipe not having to worry about fittings.

Copper should be easy to work with so I think I can mold the block with just a dremel for precision and style.

I think you can even slap a black paint on it because it isn't being cooled by air, only the contect between the pipe and the block which is obviously covered by the solder.

Yes, I used plain solder like used in home plumbing.
     
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post #6395 of 11900
Quote:
Originally Posted by Agent Smith1984 View Post

List updated!!! WOOOHOOOO

Just went through 100 pages and added all appropriate submissions!

Congrats to new members on their cards. I am back home again (ran a Fury for a little bit.... then a 980 for a little bit, and now going back to 390X-going to add a second soon also, lol)

Sooo..... EK has a waterblock for he MSI now eh??? Guess they got more interest than they thought they would!

prodigal has returned, give him water thumb.gif
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post #6396 of 11900
Quote:
Originally Posted by Worldwin View Post

I did something similar. Put CLU on the die and my temps went from 83->75C and fan speed went from 83->59%. This is also with a MSI 390X. VRM temps went down by 1C. Gotta love liquid metal.


So CLU is OK on the MSI? Happy to hear that, I want to get some too but didn't know whether the heatsink contact plate is bare copper or not. If you're using CLU without problems, I guess it's nickel plated, right? Would you recommend it as far as the ease of the process is concerned? How careful would one need to be when applying CLU or similar liquid metal compounds?

Too many questions, I know. Sorry. tongue.gif
post #6397 of 11900
Quote:
Originally Posted by THUMPer1 View Post

Replaced thermal paste on my MSI 390x. Dropped temps by 10c in a 30 min heaven run at 1150/1650 +35Mv fan 80% Pretty awesome.
Quote:
Originally Posted by tolis626 View Post

So CLU is OK on the MSI? Happy to hear that, I want to get some too but didn't know whether the heatsink contact plate is bare copper or not. If you're using CLU without problems, I guess it's nickel plated, right? Would you recommend it as far as the ease of the process is concerned? How careful would one need to be when applying CLU or similar liquid metal compounds?

Too many questions, I know. Sorry. tongue.gif

You are correct in that it is nickel plated. The thing about using CLU on the TF5 cooler is that if you put it on the die only the CLU doesn't contact with the heatsink. You have to put it on both the cooler and die for it to contact. In terms of ease I would advise against it unless you are comfortable doing so. There is no mark or place that tells you where exactly the heatsink will line up with the die. This means that you wont know exactly where to put the CLU on the heatsink. WRT how careful a person needs to be during application it would be very. Liquid metal is conductive and you can easily kill your chip.

Another note with putting CLU on the heatsink. If you put it on the die only it might still work meaning that the CLU heats up and then contacts the heatsink. I did this with my 280X and not all of the CLU was contacting the heatsink giving less than optimal heat transfer.

What i mean by the "mark" on the heatsink. On the MSI 280X cooler there is a bulge that makes it extremely apparent where to put the CLU.
https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/MSI/R9_280X_Gaming/images/cooler2.jpg

Whereas
https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/MSI/R9_390X_Gaming/images/cooler2.jpg
it is a flat surface. Meaning you have to guess where to apply the CLU once you clean the stock TIM.
post #6398 of 11900
Quote:
Originally Posted by tolis626 View Post

So CLU is OK on the MSI? Happy to hear that, I want to get some too but didn't know whether the heatsink contact plate is bare copper or not. If you're using CLU without problems, I guess it's nickel plated, right? Would you recommend it as far as the ease of the process is concerned? How careful would one need to be when applying CLU or similar liquid metal compounds?

Too many questions, I know. Sorry. tongue.gif

I already posted you can use CLU with any GPU pretty much, none of them have aluminum heat sinks as far as I know, not the high end cards anyway cause aluminum is crap.
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post #6399 of 11900
I used thermal grease anyway. Arctic Silver 5 actually. I'm sure there are better alternatives but I don't have any on hand.
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post #6400 of 11900
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stige View Post

I already posted you can use CLU with any GPU pretty much, none of them have aluminum heat sinks as far as I know, not the high end cards anyway cause aluminum is crap.

I think it causes problems with bare copper. If I'm not mistaken, there are cases where the TIM dries up completely and those people are left with a crust of material on their chips that's really hard to get off. I was worried about copper, not aluminum. smile.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by Worldwin View Post


You are correct in that it is nickel plated. The thing about using CLU on the TF5 cooler is that if you put it on the die only the CLU doesn't contact with the heatsink. You have to put it on both the cooler and die for it to contact. In terms of ease I would advise against it unless you are comfortable doing so. There is no mark or place that tells you where exactly the heatsink will line up with the die. This means that you wont know exactly where to put the CLU on the heatsink. WRT how careful a person needs to be during application it would be very. Liquid metal is conductive and you can easily kill your chip.

Another note with putting CLU on the heatsink. If you put it on the die only it might still work meaning that the CLU heats up and then contacts the heatsink. I did this with my 280X and not all of the CLU was contacting the heatsink giving less than optimal heat transfer.

What i mean by the "mark" on the heatsink. On the MSI 280X cooler there is a bulge that makes it extremely apparent where to put the CLU.
https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/MSI/R9_280X_Gaming/images/cooler2.jpg

Whereas
https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/MSI/R9_390X_Gaming/images/cooler2.jpg
it is a flat surface. Meaning you have to guess where to apply the CLU once you clean the stock TIM.
I see... Well, count me disappointed. I had hoped for a "Yes it's quite easy actually!" kind of answer, and I would have ordered a bottle of CLU (Or even the even better, allegedly, Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut) instantly. Well, that plan's going down the drain, it seems. smile.gif

Damn... Maybe I'll try putting some of the MX4 I have leftover on that GPU and see how it fares. Thanks for your input though!

PS : On second thought, why would it not make contact? That would mean there is a gap between the heatsink and GPU that needs to be filled by the TIM. That by itself means more TIM is needed, so it instantly makes the whole thing's performance drop because it will act as an insulator. I'd guess the contact plate would be squeezing onto the GPU die. Or shouldn't it? With that said, even the prospect of an overspill that causes the a short somewhere sends chills down my spine...
Edited by tolis626 - 2/22/16 at 4:55pm
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