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MSI 980 Ti Gaming 6G Card overclocks and pictures - Page 255

post #2541 of 3325
Quote:
Originally Posted by Smarmy View Post

Hello everyone!! I just got an Open Box MSI GTX 980 Ti Gaming 6GB from Amazon. I got a good deal, so I had to bite. I have it hooked up with a G10 and an H55. On 3DMark11 at Extreme I pulled X8604 and in UniEngine Heaven on the Extreme preset I got a score of 3071. I maxxed out at 48C under load.... I think I need to add some voltage to this guy!!!

SUPER impressed so far. 83.3% on ASIC quality as well!
very nice! i don't really think stock cooling can cut though even more so when i start to oc it
post #2542 of 3325
Ya the stock cooler really is underpowered, and I'm not surprised MSI capped the power limit to 300W in the bios. Although I will say that the VRMs seem to suffer more than the GPU, especially more so when you start overclocking and up the volts.
post #2543 of 3325
Quote:
Originally Posted by magnek View Post

Well I've had mine for a week now, and here are my thoughts.

First impression when I plugged the card in was UGH COIL WHINE AGAIN! mad.gif I had this exact same problem with TWO 980 Ti Classified cards, and I know it's not my system because changing the PSU made no difference, and beyond that my original Gigabyte 970 SLI setup had little to no coil whine. Now to be fair the coil whine on this particular card is what I would call "could be tolerable given enough time", whereas with the previous two Classy's it was just NOPE. Then I went to GPU-Z to check the ASIC and it was 77.5%! I decided to suck it up, find some combination of volt/clocks that didn't make it whine, or actually use headphones if I had to, but no way was I going to RMA this sucker! biggrin.gif

Second impression after gaming for a bit was they definitely could've used a beefier cooler. I have a feeling MSI prioritized acoustics over thermal performance, because even at 100% fans the cooler isn't too loud, and subjectively I can say the fans definitely felt like they pushed less air than the Classy's. Factory clocks on default fan curve always had the GPU running over 80C, and yes I have an Enthoo Primo with decent airflow so it's not that. What really frustrated me though was overclocking on air was an almost futile event, because I was definitely thermally limited. Now to be fair the first thing I did before overclocking was to flash the bios that revealed the hidden voltage sliders, and then proceeded to up the power limit to 405W so I was no longer power limited.

But you see, MSI set the power limit to 300W for a very good reason -- the stock cooler is woefully inadequate at handling over 300W of heat. With 1510/8000 at 1.25V and fans at 100%, I couldn't even get Unigine Heaven to loop for 15 minutes without crashing. I thought it was just my luck since ASIC didn't necessarily guarantee a good overclock, that is until I decided to check out the card while benching.HOLY HOT DAMN (pun intended) the backplate almost burned me when I touched it. I figured if the core was running 80+C, the VRMs must've been on fire.This despite maxing out the cooler fans. I mean I never intended to do any serious OC on air anyway, but this was disappointing to say the least.

However, once I slapped on a waterblock, this thing went into full beast mode. I'm still tweaking at the moment but 1530/7800 at 1.21V appears to be Heaven and BF4 stable, so I suspect I still have some good headroom left. As far as temps go, after 2 hours of looping Heaven the core stays between 41-43C, but keep in mind I have a 420+360, and the only other hot component in my loop is a 4930K at 4.5GHz/1.35V, so head load is fairly reasonable. Room temp is around 72F (22C) so that helps a bit.

PS: There does appear to be some combination of volts/clocks at which the coil whine is at a minimum. Hell even just bumping core to 1550 from 1530 at 1.21V made the whine quite a bit worse.
that's what i have observed with the cooler it is dead silent but does not cool well the card is so hot at idle and load to the point that you can't touch it.i tried a bit of overclocking but hits 80+c with 1465MHZ on the core and 3780 on the memory.and also the main reason why i bought this rig is to play gta 5 and it doesn't even run.
post #2544 of 3325
Quote:
Originally Posted by magnek View Post

Ya the stock cooler really is underpowered, and I'm not surprised MSI capped the power limit to 300W in the bios. Although I will say that the VRMs seem to suffer more than the GPU, especially more so when you start overclocking and up the volts.

Have you actually pointed an IR thermometer at the VRMS? The MSI 980 Ti has quite beefy VRM sinks and is actually quite good at dissipating the heat.

The problem is that the heatsink on the core is quite weak. However, I changed the TIM on my GPU to CLU and my load temps hover at around 70C - down from 77-78C.

I'd definitely recommend changing the TIM.

CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v80), default quality

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
We can measure pretty accurate temperatures at the GPUs and VRM areas. So once we start to stress the GPU the thermals quickly change. We can measure thermals down to a 10th of a degree, our thermal camera is calibrated and does not lie.

We reach roughly 72 degrees C on M2 and M3, the GPU, which is spot on with what the thermal sensor reports back.
At M1/M4 (Measure Point 4) the VRM area can be spotted, it runs just close to 80~85 Degrees C on that spot, that is considered to be a very normal temperature. Make sure you have plenty airflow inside your chassis as that will always help.

Edited by Kommanche - 10/2/15 at 1:19am
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post #2545 of 3325
If you are worried about the warranty sticker, why don't you just take a pair of needle nose pliers, grip th side of the screw and remove it?
post #2546 of 3325
Quote:
Originally Posted by cushman View Post

got mine 2 weeks ago runs ok asic is very low it's in the high 60s




one i want to know why is it that heaven benchmark showing just over 4 gb of vram?
ASIC quality in the high 60's is actually not that low on average around 60%-65% is average your would be above average.
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post #2547 of 3325
Quote:
Originally Posted by applehusky View Post

Why thank you ^^

Just ordered two more NF-A14s to go in the top and a fan hub. Hopefully they'll arrive the same time as the kraken g10 so I can just install everything in one go. Right now, playing battlefield at least, my card is throttling to 1350mhz on the core from 1500. It just gets too hot.

Pics when it's all done. biggrin.gif

I really think the MSI Gaming 6G cooler is not adequate enough. The reviews are widely inaccurate. At first I thought that was the go-to card for the best of silence, performance, looks, price and availability, but it's only quiet at the expense of temperatures. As said in this thread multiple times, the GM200 chip, if you want to have low noise and high performance, needs a full-cover waterblock, or at the very least, an extremely efficient 3-fan cooler or Kraken G10.
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post #2548 of 3325
Quote:
Originally Posted by SlimJ87D View Post

If you are worried about the warranty sticker, why don't you just take a pair of needle nose pliers, grip th side of the screw and remove it?
I've spoken to a representative of MSI face to face, and he told me literally that the warranty will NOT be void when the sticker is removed. As long as you put the original cooler back on and do NOT modify the PCB in any way, then you will simply retain your warranty thumb.gif
MSI Europe confirmed this thumb.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by AngryGoldfish View Post

Pics when it's all done. biggrin.gif

I really think the MSI Gaming 6G cooler is not adequate enough. The reviews are widely inaccurate. At first I thought that was the go-to card for the best of silence, performance, looks, price and availability, but it's only quiet at the expense of temperatures. As said in this thread multiple times, the GM200 chip, if you want to have low noise and high performance, needs a full-cover waterblock, or at the very least, an extremely efficient 3-fan cooler or Kraken G10.
I tried it out on my own MSI card, 100% fanspeed, I agree that's bearable, not awfully loud, but I got it to 75C, it's simply not adequate imo... I have an Accelero Xtreme III on it now, when I put that at 100% it's even quieter, VERY bearable, and 57C max smile.gif
I'm considering watercooling it, but the solution I have now, the Xtreme III, makes it so easy to take out of the case wink.gif
Ah choices choices...
post #2549 of 3325
http://www.overclock.net/t/1573621/ek-releases-msi-gtx-980-ti-tf5-full-cover-water-block#post_24469189

For those wanting to go full water block, I got the above response that it's okay that the block doesn't cover all the components the stock MSI midplate used to. My 71.5% ASIC is stuck at 1421MHz stable @1.187v for long durations of BF4 and Witcher 3. I'm really interested in trying out magneks advice.
post #2550 of 3325
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kommanche View Post

Have you actually pointed an IR thermometer at the VRMS? The MSI 980 Ti has quite beefy VRM sinks and is actually quite good at dissipating the heat.

The problem is that the heatsink on the core is quite weak. However, I changed the TIM on my GPU to CLU and my load temps hover at around 70C - down from 77-78C.

I'd definitely recommend changing the TIM.

CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v80), default quality

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
We can measure pretty accurate temperatures at the GPUs and VRM areas. So once we start to stress the GPU the thermals quickly change. We can measure thermals down to a 10th of a degree, our thermal camera is calibrated and does not lie.

We reach roughly 72 degrees C on M2 and M3, the GPU, which is spot on with what the thermal sensor reports back.
At M1/M4 (Measure Point 4) the VRM area can be spotted, it runs just close to 80~85 Degrees C on that spot, that is considered to be a very normal temperature. Make sure you have plenty airflow inside your chassis as that will always help.

Yes I've seen those IR images. Now think about it, if the PCB is being heated to 83C, what temp do you think the actual mosfets are running at? And this is at stock no less with no voltage adjustment.
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