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Software for R9 285 bios edit - Page 72

post #711 of 1078
@m42BMW

Nice setup man! The memory controller of the R9 380 is the same as say R7 370 and 380X, among even the new cards RX460/470/480. They achieve much higher clocks at lower memory voltage on the newer spec cards however.

To get to what speeds can these cards do? Well if your on the R9 380, it has 32 ROP units and 112 TMU units. Unlike the 380X which has 128 TMU units.

I have been able to achieve as high as 1641Mhz on the memory, and up to 1235Mhz on the core on air as well. High emphasis on thermal material on the voltage regulators, the memory modules, and the core contact and pressure. You want it tight to get the big clocks. You also want to re torque the core screws after a good load run because the screws loosen you will find after load the first time. Just like the lug nuts on a car, requiring a retorque from heat expansion. The same applies to any computer part.

Stock memory vddci, and mvdd is 1100mv to 1000mv... On these voltages even 1000mv/1000mv 1563Mhz is doable. If you want 1600 to 1641Mhz max you need 1175mv/1175mv error free which is only possible via hex modding.

The core of the R9 380/X can do 1.45v max to obtain peak clocks but only for benchmarks and getting 1200Mhz stable even on air is tough but on water might be possible.

One other thing I found is even in the 1.300v range, a 225w tdp limit may be reached... So pushing beyond puts the TDP up-in-the-air. Load spikes to the limit can be seen to push up into the 230 Watt range. So realistic voltage shouldn't go beyond say 1.375v for long continous gaming stability. Plus we want voltage overhead, meaning a bit too-much voltage for a given clock. Meaning when you find a clock that is stable at said voltage say 1150mhz at 1.35v, it's only really stable at 1.375v for those spikes that can be controlled or not and cause driver crash. All in all these cards are troubling overclockers.

Send your BIOS .rom file here and I'll prepare it for you to see what it can do. I am interested to see your results, Thank You.

Just as a side not when pushing to the limit, first open a windowed and fullscreen GPU-Z rendering test to observe artifacts if any and monitor what voltages and stability is found before going straight in-game(Because going straight in-game might cause an insta-crash). If you don't have a backplate, I'm uncertain of thermals even on water because a pad covering the backside from edge-to-edge is ideal to transfer pcb heat to the backplate to keep unknowingly hot thermals under control. You also want lots of air blowing directly over the pcb from case fans at good CFM levels to keep the regulators which are not in direct contact with the heatsink within an acceptable range.
Edited by chris89 - 10/8/16 at 3:54pm
post #712 of 1078
TongaM42BMWPowerColorR93804GBStock.zip 99k .zip file

Messed up the quote system lol.... I'll just edit and upload a screen!

And then upload my stock and modified .rom

TongaM42BMWPowerColorR93804GBVoltMod.zip 101k .zip file


Edited by m42BMW - 10/8/16 at 4:56pm
post #713 of 1078
Thanks for the info! I'll figure out the .rom upload tonight. EK block is a full cover, vrm and ram along with gpu are all covered by water and squeezed tight by a full backplate with thermal pads as well. Just got a valid firestrike at 1220/1525,9861 gfx score, still haven't broke 50c. Will upload screens when I figure out why chrome died on me...
post #714 of 1078
Nice, try this man and this is all I've been able to pull off with my card (pre-dvi removal/ which opened up a good deal more headroom).

The GPU-Z shot shows a HD5450, which is actually AMD Cedar HD6350 low profile only uses a couple watts at load. Though its overclocked from 650Mhz to 825Mhz so it can play gta v smoothly even for the moment. My Samsung HDMI ports failed(master controller board $50ish) and I don't have a dvi port for dvi to hdmi, so I had to use this card for vga for the moment.





Edited by chris89 - 10/8/16 at 5:15pm
post #715 of 1078
I think I'll call this winning. Using the volt-modded bios, then overclocking further with AB. Seems stable, and definitely within temps. Thanks to everyone who's put time and effort into decrypting these AMD bios!

post #716 of 1078
@m42BMW

First test 30 seconds of GPUZ Rendering test Windowed and Fullscreen - If no Artifacts and HWInfo reports correctly - Move on to benchmarks etc
M42BMW-ModdedBIOS-R9380-PowerColor.zip 100k .zip file

Cool dude, sorry didn't see the BIOS above. I'll post back shortly.

I guess no one mentioned that VDDCI higher than stock is not ideal and your pushing it nearly 1.300v on the vddci which will burn out the card really quick.

Stock 65288, has a -50 millivolt offset to core base voltage, so 1225 in dpm 7 is 65288, yielding 1175 on the vddci offset. When you set dpm 7 to 1350, the vddci goes to 1300mv...

AMD set the offset to -50 millivolts for a reason, to stay at 1175.

So if you want to stay safe, core base voltage of 1400, would need an offset of -225...

If you wish to have the card last, I'd be happy to correct this for you and wax your previous records.

Thank you thumb.gif



Edited by chris89 - 10/8/16 at 11:10pm
post #717 of 1078
I would love to try out a properly tuned bios! I would also like to know how to properly tune VID vs VDDCI, as I just used the TongaBiosEditor program posted early in this thread and removed the PowerPlay settings from the registry. I will be able to do some overclocking tomorrow morning and run some benches tomorrow night after work if you find the time to clean that bad boy up. I was needing 1.375+v and +125 power level for 1280 to be benchable/stable without throttle, and adding .1 of that with AB. I've got the thermal headroom for 1.4+ and 1300+ I'm guessing. Pretty cool ****! I was also stable gaming for about an hour at 1220/1525 and ~1.3v
post #718 of 1078
It's amazing enough you completed a benchmark at 1280Mhz.

Maybe I made the BIOS above too beefy, but if your water cooling is as good as you say it is. You should be able to surpass my 380x...

You should be able to do 1300Mhz+ on the bios I modded up.

I could explain how to mod the bios you need Java 8u102 and TongaBiosReader .jar to open your stock bios .rom and read through the parameters to know the offsets.

Or I could just tell you where are all your offsets, but it doesn't really matter because the bios I sent is the absolute edge of possibility, so you couldn't push any further than whats in that BIOS. Voltage wise and Power Limit wise, you don't need to touch anything except the core clock and memory clock... Heck you might be able to do 1333mhz on the core and 1700mhz on the memory with that bios... No need to use the sliders for voltage or power any more. Just focus on clocks. Unless the voltage is too high, which it very likely could be so. Something like 1400 to 1425mv might be more plausable.

If you needed you could go down on the dpm 7 value... to say 1425.. which would bring the offset to 1150 which is okay or 1400 which is 1125 which is okay as well.

Try it and if you need less core voltage, I could quickly make it for you if you feel you need less voltage.

Good luck man biggrin.gif
Edited by chris89 - 10/8/16 at 11:24pm
post #719 of 1078
Too cool. Much appreciated! I will have a look at it in the AM and post back results as they arrive! May have to back down the OC on my CPU in order for my power supply to keep up with GPU benchmarks lol maybe just time to invest in the 1000w+ power!? Thanks again, really excited to see how much further she will go!
post #720 of 1078
Your welcome and good luck! You should be okay with your psu as long as you monitor the droop on the 12 volt rail.

For example if your idle is 12.096v, and load is 11.85v and above your totally golden.

Though for example if idle is 12.096v and load is 11.60 to 11.75v then it could pop at any moment.

A good way to know if your golden is, if under load you see a minimum of 11.90v or more your just fine because even 1000w PSUs will droop that much.

Good Luck Man! thumb.gif
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