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NEED ADVICE FOR BUYING 8GB RAM

561 views 22 replies 5 participants last post by  Kleer Kut 
#1 ·
Guys, I am a bit tight on budget so building my rig gradually. I currently have

Phenom II X2 555BE
MSI 760GM P23 FX mobo
planning to buy MSI Gaming GTX 960
PSU Corsair GS700
Planning to buy a DEEPCOOL Kendomen RED

Now i am stuck with RAM

I want to get a 8gb stick now & buy another 8GB stick later....

Now the problem is my current mobo support only 1333Mhz DDR3 RAM. But i am planning to switch to i5 & intel based mobo later which will support higher frequency like 1600 or 1800...

SO i dont know which RAM to buy. PLEASE HELP

Thanks in advance
 
#2 ·
Without knowing what motherboard you're going to buy it's pretty hard to say what memory will work with it.
And most newer motherboards have switched to DDR4 memory.
 
#4 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by billbartuska View Post

Without knowing what motherboard you're going to buy it's pretty hard to say what memory will work with it.
And most newer motherboards have switched to DDR4 memory.
well i will buy any decent msi mobo thats works well with i5 ...that you all would again have to advise me when i plan to switch to intel based
 
#5 ·
Hello.
I would go with something like these: HyperX Savage.Good RAM with nice price. It have nice timings and can be OCed nicely (even up to 2133 and nice timings if you like those things), reliable brand. I have 2 of these and I am very pleased
tongue.gif
(firstly i went just like you, 1 now and the second one later). If you wanna a cheaper one but still very nice you can go with HyperX Fury, its cheaper but does not OC so well. If you are going to just stick with XMP profile then go with FURY, if you like OC and have some fun with timings than add some $$$ and go with Savage
smile.gif

Good Luck & Have Fun with your build
 
#6 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by delgon View Post

Hello.
I would go with something like these: HyperX Savage.Good RAM with nice price. It have nice timings and can be OCed nicely (even up to 2133 and nice timings if you like those things), reliable brand. I have 2 of these and I am very pleased
tongue.gif
(firstly i went just like you, 1 now and the second one later). If you wanna a cheaper one but still very nice you can go with HyperX Fury, its cheaper but does not OC so well. If you are going to just stick with XMP profile then go with FURY, if you like OC and have some fun with timings than add some $$$ and go with Savage
smile.gif

Good Luck & Have Fun with your build
Sir, I said my present mobo supports only 1333MHz...i need a ram which can work on it & versatile enough to work on the new mobo @ 1600 or 1800MHz
 
#8 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by delgon View Post

you can set in bios 1333 if you want to. . You can buy these 1600, even 1866 and they will work with your current rig and will work with new/future intel build
smile.gif
. Remember, you can always set 1333 in bios. 1600 is standard right now. If RAM say that its 1866 or something it doesnt mean that you cant run it at 1333 to match you current rig so dont worry.
^ This! DDR3 is DDR3, whatever is cheapest and 1333 or above should work fine. There are a couple things to look out for:

Voltage - Some RAM has higher speed and lower timings, but require increased voltage. These are almost always slower chips that are overclocked and require voltage to get there. Since you are limited to 1333, you might as well stick with RAM that is at 1.5 volts. Generally speaking, when not on sale the 'faster' RAM will cost more, even though they are the same chips that passed testing at higher speed and voltage. Often, the timings will be loosened up to achieve this overclocked setting and will not perform as well as RAM native to that speed with stock 1.5 volts.

Timings - Given the same voltage and speed (say 1.5V and 1600 for example) a stick with 9-9-9-24 will perform better than a stick at 11-11-11-28. These timings can be loosened to get higher speeds (say overclocking to 1866), but this is a two way street. If you use a program like CPU-Z and check out the memory tab, they usually list what timings can be set for a given speed. So the same stick may say 8-8-8-21 @ 667 (1333). If you aren't familiar with it, then you should look into methods people use for overclocking and adjusting RAM timings.

Often times the motherboard will default to slower timings and the result is mediocre performance. I have a similar situation where my RAM is much faster, but I currently have it running 6-7-6-18 @ 1400. It had defaulted to 9-9-9-24. There was quite a bit of a performance jump simply by getting the timings tightened up. To me, this is the biggest separation between store bought PCs and DIY. Selecting specific parts and optimizing settings gives you a PC that you can't get off of a shelf for the same price point, if anywhere.
 
#9 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kleer Kut View Post

^ This! DDR3 is DDR3, whatever is cheapest and 1333 or above should work fine. There are a couple things to look out for:

Voltage - Some RAM has higher speed and lower timings, but require increased voltage. These are almost always slower chips that are overclocked and require voltage to get there. Since you are limited to 1333, you might as well stick with RAM that is at 1.5 volts. Generally speaking, when not on sale the 'faster' RAM will cost more, even though they are the same chips that passed testing at higher speed and voltage. Often, the timings will be loosened up to achieve this overclocked setting and will not perform as well as RAM native to that speed with stock 1.5 volts.

Timings - Given the same voltage and speed (say 1.5V and 1600 for example) a stick with 9-9-9-24 will perform better than a stick at 11-11-11-28. These timings can be loosened to get higher speeds (say overclocking to 1866), but this is a two way street. If you use a program like CPU-Z and check out the memory tab, they usually list what timings can be set for a given speed. So the same stick may say 8-8-8-21 @ 667 (1333). If you aren't familiar with it, then you should look into methods people use for overclocking and adjusting RAM timings.

Often times the motherboard will default to slower timings and the result is mediocre performance. I have a similar situation where my RAM is much faster, but I currently have it running 6-7-6-18 @ 1400. It had defaulted to 9-9-9-24. There was quite a bit of a performance jump simply by getting the timings tightened up. To me, this is the biggest separation between store bought PCs and DIY. Selecting specific parts and optimizing settings gives you a PC that you can't get off of a shelf for the same price point, if anywhere.
Which of these would be better ...

http://www.flipkart.com/g-skill-ripjawsx-ddr3-4-gb-1-x-gb-pc-dram-f3-12800cl9s-4gbxl/p/itmd2rys8pgq3keh?pid=RAMD2RYRXBBF4WC8&ref=L%3A-4751793088971650441&srno=p_19&query=ram&otracker=from-search

OR

http://www.flipkart.com/kingston-hyperx-blu-ddr3-4-gb-pc-dram-khx1600c9d3b1-4g/p/itmd9zdfmetkss2t?pid=RAMD9ZDYDQQCWGAQ&ref=L%3A-4751793088971650441&srno=p_20&query=ram&otracker=from-search

AND SHOULD I BUY 1x8gb or 2x4gb
 
#10 ·
G.Skill RipjawsX DDR3 4 GB (1 x 4 GB) PC DRAM (F3-12800CL9S-4GBXL)
★★★★★ ★★★★★
DDR3-1600/PC3-12800
DIMM Memory Module
240-pin Configuration
9-9-9 CAS Latency


Kingston HyperX Blu DDR3 4 GB PC DRAM (KHX1600C9D3B1/4G)
★★★★★ ★★★★★
DDR3-1600
DIMM Memory Module
240-pin Configuration
6-7-8-9 CAS Latency


1 x 8 gig will not run in dual channel.
 
#11 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by billbartuska View Post

G.Skill RipjawsX DDR3 4 GB (1 x 4 GB) PC DRAM (F3-12800CL9S-4GBXL)
★★★★★ ★★★★★
DDR3-1600/PC3-12800
DIMM Memory Module
240-pin Configuration
9-9-9 CAS Latency


Kingston HyperX Blu DDR3 4 GB PC DRAM (KHX1600C9D3B1/4G)
★★★★★ ★★★★★
DDR3-1600
DIMM Memory Module
240-pin Configuration
6-7-8-9 CAS Latency


1 x 8 gig will not run in dual channel.
WHICH 1 should i buy????
 
#13 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by x.nemesis View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by billbartuska View Post

G.Skill RipjawsX DDR3 4 GB (1 x 4 GB) PC DRAM (F3-12800CL9S-4GBXL)
★★★★★ ★★★★★
DDR3-1600/PC3-12800
DIMM Memory Module
240-pin Configuration
9-9-9 CAS Latency


Kingston HyperX Blu DDR3 4 GB PC DRAM (KHX1600C9D3B1/4G)
★★★★★ ★★★★★
DDR3-1600
DIMM Memory Module
240-pin Configuration
6-7-8-9 CAS Latency


1 x 8 gig will not run in dual channel.
WHICH 1 should i buy????
Latencies (which I bolded above) are the amount of time it takes memory to do what it has to do, that is read , write or move data around on the memory sticks.
The lower the timing the faster it can do each step of what it has to do. So when comparing memory with the same speed, the one with the lower timings is always better (ie. faster).
 
#14 ·
That 6-7-8-9 is an obvious typo. A quick search of the part numbers brings up better info. The latencies seem to be the same but the Kingston RAM requires 1.65 volts to achieve the same specs that the G.Skill can at stock 1.5 volts. I would go with the G.Skill personally.
 
#15 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kleer Kut View Post

That 6-7-8-9 is an obvious typo. A quick search of the part numbers brings up better info. The latencies seem to be the same but the Kingston RAM requires 1.65 volts to achieve the same specs that the G.Skill can at stock 1.5 volts. I would go with the G.Skill personally.
If i get two of these will it work on my current mobo which support only 1333MHz RAM???

http://www.flipkart.com/g-skill-ripjawsx-ddr3-4-gb-1-x-gb-pc-dram-f3-12800cl9s-4gbxl/p/itmd2rys8pgq3keh?pid=RAMD2RYRXBBF4WC8
 
#19 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by delgon View Post

Best case scenario is that it will just set itself as 1333.
Worst case scenerio is that you will have to go to BIOS (F9 or F2) and search for memory setting an set speed to 1333, thats all.
Worst case is really not that bad. You will have to lose like 1 minute. It will not make your system unstable, to tell the truth it will even make it more stable.
Thanks sir, i will let you know after i buy it & fix it...THANKS all of you guys for your valuable opinions
 
#21 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by timisyourfriend View Post

You should just buy a cheap DDR3-1333 CL9 1.50V, plug and play and not worry about it.

Getting a DDR3-1600 you may need to adjust settings and stuff

If you upgrade to a new system,everything should be upgraded from this system so you shouldn't be using any of the same parts anyway.
I'm going to have to disagree with two of these three sentences. DDR3 1600 is plug and play for all of the systems I have used it on, none of which are capable of using it at full speed. It works on my Haswell Celeron, works on my Core2Duo, works on a J1900. No errors, no reboots, just stock timings at the slower speed which was max for the system. The cost difference is minimal to none, quite often that the 1333 can cost MORE since it isn't the most popular RAM anymore. Yes, you can compare a single sale at a single place vs a full retail price in a specfic instance, but that would be the exception.

I DO agree that getting faster RAM means you may need to adjust settings. Actually I wouldn't use the word need. I would say want. If you want optimum performance, then you go through the RAM timings and tighten them up. Takes a few minutes of your life which you will easily get back over the lifetime of a typical stick of RAM, as the system will respond much faster with a latency of 6 or 7 vs the typical 9-11 of many other sticks. If these are simply placeholders until new gear arrives, then maybe it isn;t worth the time to optimize unit the new gear shows up. But I would do it.

It has been a solid decade since I have built a computer for myself that I replaced every single component at once. Last year they released the G1850 Celeron and I bought it the next day. It was cheaper than the rest of the lineup, and cost me $44 shipped plus $55 shipped for the mobo. Stole a stick of RAM from the C2D, old case/PSU/HDD and I was in business for hardly $100. The other stick of RAM in the C2D crapped out on me several months later, so I upgraded to a faster stick for the new PC, and slid the old stick back to the C2D. I got about 4 years out of the old stick so I can hardly complain about it (I didn't pay for the old stick either, it was given to me in exchange for building a computer for a friend). I would question the idea of upgrading today, just to buy new stuff 6 months down the line. Especially with Skylake around the corner, as far as I know using DDR4 exclusively. But if the OP already has an upgrade path lined up using DDR3, and can buy the RAM today to get a little more out of his current rig, then I see no reason not to do it.
 
#22 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kleer Kut View Post

I'm going to have to disagree with two of these three sentences. DDR3 1600 is plug and play for all of the systems I have used it on, none of which are capable of using it at full speed. It works on my Haswell Celeron, works on my Core2Duo, works on a J1900. No errors, no reboots, just stock timings at the slower speed which was max for the system. The cost difference is minimal to none, quite often that the 1333 can cost MORE since it isn't the most popular RAM anymore. Yes, you can compare a single sale at a single place vs a full retail price in a specfic instance, but that would be the exception.

I DO agree that getting faster RAM means you may need to adjust settings. Actually I wouldn't use the word need. I would say want. If you want optimum performance, then you go through the RAM timings and tighten them up. Takes a few minutes of your life which you will easily get back over the lifetime of a typical stick of RAM, as the system will respond much faster with a latency of 6 or 7 vs the typical 9-11 of many other sticks. If these are simply placeholders until new gear arrives, then maybe it isn;t worth the time to optimize unit the new gear shows up. But I would do it.

It has been a solid decade since I have built a computer for myself that I replaced every single component at once. Last year they released the G1850 Celeron and I bought it the next day. It was cheaper than the rest of the lineup, and cost me $44 shipped plus $55 shipped for the mobo. Stole a stick of RAM from the C2D, old case/PSU/HDD and I was in business for hardly $100. The other stick of RAM in the C2D crapped out on me several months later, so I upgraded to a faster stick for the new PC, and slid the old stick back to the C2D. I got about 4 years out of the old stick so I can hardly complain about it (I didn't pay for the old stick either, it was given to me in exchange for building a computer for a friend). I would question the idea of upgrading today, just to buy new stuff 6 months down the line. Especially with Skylake around the corner, as far as I know using DDR4 exclusively. But if the OP already has an upgrade path lined up using DDR3, and can buy the RAM today to get a little more out of his current rig, then I see no reason not to do it.
Sir how would i do the tightening specs on ram to get it work super fast on my 1333mhz system ?
 
#23 ·
If you are in Windows you start by looking in CPU-Z to see what it says on the tables. The memory tab should give you the speed you are currently running. Generally it will say something such as 665.7 MHZ for 1333 RAM (I believe they derive the 1333 number from dual channel, so 1333 divided by 2 is 666 for the speed each stick is running). The SPD tab will have a table that lists different default speeds and suggested timings. You want to find the speed closest to the MHZ number in the memory tab. If there isn't a number really close to your current MHZ, then use the next higher number as your starting point. Compare the numbers in the table under that number to the numbers in the memory tab for the timings. If your numbers are higher than the numbers in the table, it should be safe to set it to the lower numbers. If your numbers are lower than the table then you are probably pretty close to being optimized.

I would use SuperPi to test the memory. It seems to be the best and fastest indicator of what effect each change has when you change the timings. Also, if you set something a little too low, SuperPi is one of the best programs to cause it to hang up so you will know when you have gone a bit too far. If you go way too far it generally won't go past POST, or not POST at all. Different motherboards act differently, so you may have to clear BIOS to get it to boot up again. My Gigabyte boards usually reboot themselves and get going, or I may have to reboot manually, rarely needing to clear BIOS. I haven't used other brands in a long time so I don't know how they all react. Also, you probably want to backup all of your information, and if you can, use a different drive completely. If the memory errors out while writing to the drive it can completely ruin your operating system and may or may not be easy to recover from. I haven't had that happen since early Windows XP days but this stuff is all at your own risk. It won't cause any physical damage to any hardware but you can easily lose data at any time on any computer and should always backup any data you can't easily replace. Multiple backups and periodic testing of backups is encouraged.

I would first do a run of SuperPi just to make sure the system is stable from the beginning and to see what time you get. Maybe do a few runs to get an average and do it after a fresh boot up, giving the system time to settle down so background programs trying to run don't skew the numbers. Then go through the stuff I mentioned above and make sure you are running stable if you had to lower your timings to match the table for your speed. Once that is all set and working, try lowering each number, one at a time, and testing with SuperPi. This takes a bit of time to go through. Lowered it by 1, reboot, test, it works so I go back to BIOS and lower again, repeat until failure, raise back up one and test again to be sure it works. I write down the numbers from the table in CPU-Z and keep track of what changes worked and didn't. After reaching the lowest working speed for CAS, I put it back to the speed from the table and start on the next timing, so I am doing each individually. Go through this process with all of the listed timings from the table. Once you get the fastest speed for each number, you can try them all at once. You kinda have to fuss with it sometimes to get the absolute fastest speed. SuperPi will let you know which timing is having the greatest effect (generally CAS latency). If you can get the system stable at lower timings then you should see a noticeable drop in SuperPi times. It can take an hour or more to go through this whole process, but since you are using faster RAM on a slower system, you are almost guaranteed to get a decent jump in performance by optimizing the timings. I have been using this method for a long time and it works for me. You may want to search out other threads to learn more.
 
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