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Alphacool GPX Owners Club and Information Thread - Page 12

post #111 of 371
Quote:
Originally Posted by orbitalwalsh View Post

Could you do me a massive favour ?

Does the heatsink squeeze into the shroud casing ?

If it doesnt ill have to change tactics and go with EK

Not without modifying the white shroud. It looks like you'll have to remove one screw mount (looking at the back of the card, top right) and possibly some of the top edge. Since I can't install the GPX on my card, I can't comment on depth. The GPX fins might be too tall when it's attached to the card but, depending on clearance, you might be able to sand them down to fit inside. I can upload some pics for ya later tonight.

Even if you go with the EK thermosphere, you'll still have to modify the white shroud.
post #112 of 371
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sky-way View Post

Not without modifying the white shroud. It looks like you'll have to remove one screw mount (looking at the back of the card, top right) and possibly some of the top edge. Since I can't install the GPX on my card, I can't comment on depth. The GPX fins might be too tall when it's attached to the card but, depending on clearance, you might be able to sand them down to fit inside. I can upload some pics for ya later tonight.

Even if you go with the EK thermosphere, you'll still have to modify the white shroud.

I was going to cut into the corners of the sink to allow the shroud to mount to the board. Only mods i was going to do to the shroud was drill holes.
Was more concerned wad with the width of the sink being the same as the shroud. And would i have to cut then length of the fin to make it slimmer . which is a bit of a mission to do

in theory the height of the sink shouldnt be a problem, looking at many of them they dont reach the height of 2 pcie brackets.

101122655f6c50aea5b9_600x600.jpg
Edited by orbitalwalsh - 1/28/16 at 12:45am
post #113 of 371
Started hacking away. 3 corners done to allow shroud to mount to board. Extended to corners to allow for the xtra cap as well as clear the fan header .



Edited by orbitalwalsh - 1/30/16 at 8:17am
post #114 of 371
Almost theres, need to shave off the top and bottom to fit within the shroud so i had to take the water block off and found this. Maybe reason for peoples high vrms .



As you can see theres a lot of paste and NO contact! No effectively no heat transfer for sink to block as advertised .

I've ordered 0.5mm heat pads may use that instead for contact. The mounting screws were solid so couldnt tighten for contact .

And AMD users with high temps might want to check.
Whats stops the contact is the slightly raised screws for the waterblocks cold plate. Might sand these down a bit.
But the answer couldnt be adding more paste, theres a life time supply applied already :/
Edited by orbitalwalsh - 1/31/16 at 2:36am
post #115 of 371
Well that is just plain... crap.

I have to check it out next time I open mine... And show those screw studs some angle grinder so I can get it fastened down enough.
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post #116 of 371
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stige View Post

Well that is just plain... crap.

I have to check it out next time I open mine... And show those screw studs some angle grinder so I can get it fastened down enough.

I wasnt expecting a perfect spread but that was god aweful. Im sure an american user could quite easily win against them in court being an american company for false advertising .
Just hope this is a once off and everyone elses have at least some contact.
For the second card im just going to get the block without both heat sinks and use a plexi back plate .
post #117 of 371
Quote:
Originally Posted by orbitalwalsh View Post

I wasnt expecting a perfect spread but that was god aweful. Im sure an american user could quite easily win against them in court being an american company for false advertising .
Just hope this is a once off and everyone elses have at least some contact.
For the second card im just going to get the block without both heat sinks and use a plexi back plate .

Same issue for me. I was appalled when I took the block off the heatsink!




I'm gonna countersink the holes a little to allow the screw to be flush with the cold plate, which will allow much better contact.

Here is mine after I drilled the hole for the capacitor.

2qlzb7l.jpg

I painted the bare metal black with some spray paint (sprayed it into the cap and used a small brush to apply) so it looks a lot better. Here it is installed on the card with plenty of clearance around the cap.

2w56epy.jpg

34t5nhi.jpg
Edited by Sky-way - 1/31/16 at 5:39pm
post #118 of 371
Okay getting a bit worrying...
99% sure I don't have the issue though as when I took the block off my old 270x heatsink pretty sure there was plenty of paste on both parts, wish I'd taken some photos now though. Also it seemed like a good fit when I upgraded to a 390 heatsink and all my temps are good.
My main worry would be if the block and heatsink aren't mating correctly then doesn't that mean there is a risk the gpu core and the block won't mate correctly??
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post #119 of 371
Quote:
Originally Posted by bichael View Post

Okay getting a bit worrying...
99% sure I don't have the issue though as when I took the block off my old 270x heatsink pretty sure there was plenty of paste on both parts, wish I'd taken some photos now though. Also it seemed like a good fit when I upgraded to a 390 heatsink and all my temps are good.
My main worry would be if the block and heatsink aren't mating correctly then doesn't that mean there is a risk the gpu core and the block won't mate correctly??

If your core temps are fine shouldnt worry, but worth checking your VRM temps, as thats the part that will be most effected as in theory its heat isnt being soaked up by the water block as advertised.
They should of counter sunk the blocks screws on the cold plate or just used thermal pads which would of been 100% then no contact.

*** lifted from Blog and isn't as clean as Sky-ways but should do the job

started to get to work on the Hybrid cooling, but whilst the card was out i had a chance to add some heatsinks 20mmx20mmx5mm to the Pro 950,


All laid out

As with the previous post, i needed to trim off more and had to get the width down on the block by rooming a fin from the top and bottom, to do this i had to take out the waterblock from the heatsink and came across this

That indeed is a lot of paste making NO contact with the heatsink. Alphcool advertises the whilst the block isnt fully watercooled, the plate can transfer heat to the block to be cooled down. looking at this I can see why users have been monitoring high VRM temps. In theory is a perfect idea but the execution is poorly lacking, so be warned with the Alphacool blocks !

top side up, fits like a glove!

Correct way up, will need to trim the bottom left fin just to make sure it clears the mount point

From this image you can see the Ram will need to be trimmed off. i Though about trimming down the fins but still won't work and dont want to cut the memory plate section and just easier to cut the ramp, and plastic glue back on in future. You can also see with the heatsink, theres plenty of height clearance too

quick poor shot of the heatsink over the current board, trimmed the pin header section to allow the fan to connect.


Hope tonight to mount the whole thing together and attach the red LEDs to the fan section to light it up.

With the second card i'll just use the universal alphacool mounting without the heatsink and use some heatsinks for ram chips.
post #120 of 371
Hmmm ... that sounds like pretty significant QA issue. I'll have to take look at my 390X block later on before I put it on the card.
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