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Alphacool GPX Owners Club and Information Thread - Page 27

post #261 of 387
Sounds like you may need to take it apart again and double check the contact you're getting. 80oC is very high so that seems the most likely. Even with a single DC-LT at reduced speed and a 30oC ambient I don't think I've ever gone over 60oC with my 390. Does the card / rad feel hot to the touch?

That said would obviously also be good to sort out the software side to make sure you're confident in what the card is doing and what temps it's reporting back.

Be good to see a pic of the two DC-LTs when you get chance!
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post #262 of 387
Quote:
Originally Posted by bichael View Post

Sounds like you may need to take it apart again and double check the contact you're getting. 80oC is very high so that seems the most likely. Even with a single DC-LT at reduced speed and a 30oC ambient I don't think I've ever gone over 60oC with my 390. Does the card / rad feel hot to the touch?

That said would obviously also be good to sort out the software side to make sure you're confident in what the card is doing and what temps it's reporting back.

Be good to see a pic of the two DC-LTs when you get chance!

Can I reuse the thermal pads or would I need to get the new ones? Because when installing the block I already used the ones for that which were packaged with the cooler.

TBH I would really prefer if I would not need to do that as tthe loop is already filled and I'm not sure I can access the PCI-e lever needed to release the card. The backplate of the GPX is pressed quite firmly against the CPU cooler so you cant squeeze even a sheet of paper in there not to mention finger (Sytche big shuriken). Taking out the whole motherboard would be basically redoing the whole system which take me a full day (it's a heavily modded case which goes together and comes apart in a very specific order for everything to work).

Using only 3 screws for the core part I would expect somewhat worse temps, but not 20C worse. More like somewhere between 5 .... 10 C or so worse. I have every other screw installed but the one of adjacent to the GPU core part. The block itself is relatively rigid and should do enough to ensure that at least some contact exists between the core and the block.

But yeah. 80 ... up to 85C is not a water cooling territory for a card at its stock settings. While the GPU-z (without drivers installed) claims that the card is running at full speed I see that it only seems to draw 6 to 8 amps on one of the PCIe connectors attached it - under the full speed that number should be much higher so I might be in for a lot of trouble if I don't get the temps lower somehow.

Edit: I tightened up the screws I could access as much as I would dare with the card in place (ironically the part where pressure has been provided only by one screw is covered by the cpu cooler) and that dropped the temps approx 15 .. 20C down to 60 .. 65 C - mind, though, that this is with the card basically "idle" (no drivers installed, according to cpu-z running at 100% load but drawing only approx 100W) - thats about the same temps which the card has under air when at low or no load. I took also another look at the PCI-e release lever, I honestly do not think I can access that - the card is already tilted downwards few mm too much by the cpu cooler and if I tilt it a bit more I'm afraid I might damage the PCI-e slot and I would rather not do that if at all possible as although by now some years old X79 boards still cost more than pennies. Plus all the added hassle of redoing basically the whole system if motherboard goes.

Edit2: I'll add that the radiator is Nexxos 45mm 280mm with 140mm 1000 rpm fans in push-pull, but it's sucking air through the case and blows outside so the airflow is kind of restricted - so I did not expect much better temps that under air but insteads did it because the stock cooler in gigabyte 390x is so spectacular howler that I had to down-clock the card so that it would not irritate missus watching TV downstairs (yeah that bad). I could literally hear it through my headphones when gaming about 1 m from the closed chassis.

Edit3: I got it sorted (I think).

The "driver issue" was afterall an temperature one. After I tightened the screws which I had access to I managed to get into windows with drivers installed and managed to see the card at 95 C and climbing and then displays went blank at 100C when card went into safe mode to save itself. That made it clear that I must get the card out so I did - I'm amazed to be honest I did not break off the PCI-e slot from motherboard considering manuevers I did to get it out. Used an L shaped PCIe slot bracket which was relatively thin, wiggled it between the GPU and CPU cooler and after about 15 minutes of forcing this crap I got the PCI-e slot lock disengaged. I hope I do not have to do it before I'm ready to replace the motherboard though. I'm amazed it did not leak considering how bad the tubing kinked when I got it out.

I tightened all the screws to the point I dared (including the one which I did not have access to because of cpu cooler) and then a little bit more and now my temps are as they should be, even without the 4th screw. About 40ish idle I'll see about under load in abit.
Edited by Carniflex - 8/2/16 at 12:38pm
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post #263 of 387
OK - now that I have my block installed I'll post my impressions of the undertaking with some pictures as well ofc.

For a start I added a bit more paste between the core block and the passive aluminium heatsink part as there was not too much of it apparently.


After removing the stock heatsink on Gigabyte 390X G1 Gaming and taking a good look on the manual it is clear that the photo of the card in the manual is NOT the same as the card I have in my hand. That said it was possible to apply some common sense and do my best to match the manual as good as possible. I mean pads go to VRM regardless if in the picture in manual there is few less of these.



Then the other side, apply pads, remove second layer of foil - I'll add a note that for me it was not clear from the manual where, exactly, should the 3mm pads go as there was less clear landmarks on the back side. I made an assumption that the main purpose of these pads is insulation so that the backplate could not short out something on the back side so I applied these on the higher components in the back side matching the manual given layout as good as I could.


Then it's tightening the screws and putting the card in.



Note that I used one of the M3 screw holes to add a small bracket to the backplate and then arranged a chain of zip ties to support the card. If you notice the handle it's kind of mobile system and the GPX is a bit heavier than the stock cooler on that card. I'll add also a note that the backplate makes the card about 2-3 mm "too thick" on the CPU cooler side so when installing the card I had to insert it at an slight angle and then force it up with my hand to be able to put in the bracket screws - this will probably put some stress on the PCI-e slot and also on the CPU socket with the pressure the CPU cooler and GPX go against each other. As already noted in the previous post this is quite an issue if you want or need to remove the card.

Even though I tightened the screws as much as I would dare after about day of trying to get the card working when I ripped it off system when seeing it hit 100C it turned out almost all the screws could be turned for another turn or even two dropping the temps by a good 40+ C's meaning there was practically no contact with the GPU core. They do mean it when they say you must tighten the screws after 12h of use! Probably the thermal pads compressing over time when exposed to heat.

And then there is the elephant in the room - one of the GPU core screws just did not go in. I even applied as much pressure as I would dare to try to make it catch a thread, wiggled it around but nothing - there was one other screw as well which seemed to be misaligned by a tiny fraction but it caught some thread and I had to use some force to screw it in but in it went. All the rest of the screws aligned fine and went in fine other than one of the corner ones for the GPU core area. That said with all three (and the rest of them further away as well) properly re-tightened the temperatures are quite good - I would go as far as to say that in the same ballpark as a proper full cover block. As you can note the passive heatsink part has quite good airflow with CPU cooler pushing practically straight into it from the top and 4x 140mm fans in the front pulling all the air they can through the chassis from back to front so my PCB temperature is the same as my core temperature now at stock settings. At the time of writing this 42C for the VRM's and 41.9C for the GPU core (idle on desktop)

And a bonus picture of two DC-LT pumps with plexi tops for the system:

At full rpm they do whine btw. I added a little piece of felt under then which helped a bit but they are still audible a bit when sitting next to the chassis - will probably have to drop them down a bit. One of the pumps is the very first revision (3600 rpm, only 2 wires) the second is the second revision (3400 rpm, 3 wires including the rpm one). At the moment both are running straight off the 12V from the PSU.
Edited by Carniflex - 8/2/16 at 10:38pm
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post #264 of 387
Nice work! Glad that you managed to get it sorted - hopefully - what temps are you getting under load? I think you should be fine to reuse the thermal pads if needed by the way though hopefully not necessary to take apart again now.

Did you try swapping screws in case there was some variation causing an issue with the one that wouldn't go in? In terms of tightening then yeah probably it was the thermal pads that threw it off - for those where there are standoffs either side I think it's almost impossible to over tighten so I would give them plenty. Those without standoffs are a bit more of a judgement call though, seem to remember my older 270x didn't have any at all like that but think it was one of the trade offs for the reduced backplate thickness near the bottom - I prefer the older design but then I was lucky it fit my motherboard.

Can you not release the card by using something to release the pci-e clip from below, ie on the non-cpu side?
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post #265 of 387
Quote:
Originally Posted by bichael View Post

Nice work! Glad that you managed to get it sorted - hopefully - what temps are you getting under load? I think you should be fine to reuse the thermal pads if needed by the way though hopefully not necessary to take apart again now.

Did you try swapping screws in case there was some variation causing an issue with the one that wouldn't go in? In terms of tightening then yeah probably it was the thermal pads that threw it off - for those where there are standoffs either side I think it's almost impossible to over tighten so I would give them plenty. Those without standoffs are a bit more of a judgement call though, seem to remember my older 270x didn't have any at all like that but think it was one of the trade offs for the reduced backplate thickness near the bottom - I prefer the older design but then I was lucky it fit my motherboard.

Can you not release the card by using something to release the pci-e clip from below, ie on the non-cpu side?

I'm getting about 55 .. 60C under full load (3DMark - fire strike ultra) so it seems it got sorted indeed. At stock settings - I'll probably overclock the card a bit now that I have it under decent cooling but as it's already factory OC'd a bit I'm not planning to go nuts with clocks. Probably bump up the core to 1100 if it can handle it stable and RAM probably a bit as well (running 4K so I'm willing to take all the bandwidth I can get). Gonna stay with stock volts, just increase the power/TDP allowance a bit from the default.

As far as the screw that did not go in went - I tried 5 other screws as well, none went in, the same screw itself went fine into other locations as well so it was most likely something in the receiving end side that threw it off. Probably big enough misaligment to prevent the screw catching the thread. Visually checking from the side I could see that the screw went and touched the standoff just fine - looking in from the top I could see the hole into which it was supposed to go - no clue what was the issue. Fortunately it seems to do fine without that one screw so I'm gonna just live with that. I'm not 100% sure it's the quality issue of block - could be something I did as well, say, for example, when I applied that additional paste between the aluminium part and the core block might have knocked the standoff off the alignment when tightening these screws that hold the GPU-core part to the larger aluminium heat-sink part. I did use a bit too large screwdriver for that in retrospective.

I tried to press the lever from below but I could not reach it because the bracket I used did not have long enough angled part, would need probably at least 30mm long angled part to press it from below blind (as its covered with the GPU core side of the block). If I would have been truly unable to press the lever from between the CPU cooler and top plate I would have probably went out to hardware shop and get something that would have done that job from below.

Anyway - now that I have it making more or less proper contact (I believe) I'm quite happy with the block. Installing it was a bit chore TBH comapred to core-only blocks I have used in the past but the VRM temperatures are quite a lot better than with core only blocks and I dont have to worry about one of the little glue-on heatsinks falling off and shorting something (like, for examp le, the second GFX card below).

Edit: It's a good block - core is approx +20C over water temperature and VRM's are about the same at +20..25C over water temperature. My loop is apparently not particularly effective with approx 20C delta between ambient and water temperature as well but then again when picking parts compromises had to be made to keep the noise down. After few hours of gaming on 390X all the relevant temps are a bit under 70C which is in practice just approx 5C over what this card used to run idle. My 390X is at the moment 1100 core 1565 memory +20% power. According to OCCT it's not 100% stable because when temperature hits approx 62 C on VRM's single errors start appearing, when temperature hits about 68C then errors start appearing in the hundreds in the OCCT test. I'm a bit worried about the pumps TBH - a bit under 50C water temp is a bit on the high side. Although to be precise these pumps are rated for up to 65C water temp in their product page so there is a fair bit headroom.
Edited by Carniflex - 8/3/16 at 12:29pm
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post #266 of 387
had a screw that wont go in too. Uses a bit of force and it went in.

Had something "special" yesterday. My vrm temps went in secounds from 60 to 80+ in firestrike bench demo. not so good because i get artefacts, wehn the vrm 1 or 2 reach 65+.
I tried Metro last light redux and the temps of vrm stayed at ~50-55° with full load...Still better then air with +143mv but next time i go for a real full block.

@Alphacool -> Do you think you will sell a full waterblock for AMD Vega in the future?
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post #267 of 387
@Streetdragon
With the Eiswolf GPX-Pro you will have better vrm tems. That cooler has some nice features and it has a special design for graphic cards with HBM V-Ram wink.gif
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post #268 of 387
Quote:
Originally Posted by orbitalwalsh View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Stige View Post

Core temps don't mean much these days though, VRM is where the real temperatures are measured at.

Until nvidia follows amd with monitoring it, cant even stick a temp sensor ay it due to shroud

Also, recieved the second 970 M07 had the hole cut out for the Turbo board, unlike the first


So I searched this thread and based on this post I can assume that these two are compatible now without modification?



I found a really good deal on the Turbo and even though it's not what I really want I need something fast, and of course this is the only block I know of in the world that "might" work with it. Has anyone else had any other issues fitting these two together?
 
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post #269 of 387
Quote:
Originally Posted by AT-Eduard View Post

*snip*

Hey there, Eduard.

I talked to Janusch at Alphacool about the 1070/1080 Amp Extreme blocks at the beginning of the month. He said they'll be in about 6-7 weeks. Have you heard anything from them on when you guys will be getting stock in? Thanks!
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post #270 of 387
Hi,

i have no infos, sorry. I know that they are working on different custom designs (Palit, Asus, Gainward, MSI, Gigabyte, Zotac). But i have also only the info that they will come in around 4-5 weeks.
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