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post #1361 of 4442
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jiryama View Post

Exact reason why I am choosing the Modular Reservoir system. biggrin.gif

@BoxGods
Anyways, for the CCFL project you have going on, will they include the cathodes or would they be sold separately in case people already have their own? I might have to wait for the Sketchup of it to see exactly how you are implementing it.

Also, do you have any new information on your collaboration with JustABunchOfGeeks project that you consulted on? (I believe it was the Guardian Monitoring LCD that you had mentioned something and they postponed?) It looked liked it had a lot of potential.

They are likely to ship with the CCFL bulbs. Those things are so fragile I don't know how we could ship them not already in a tube.

They are a simple matter to swap out though and you don't have to uninstall the tube to do it so no loop draining or any of that. Unscrew the end cap, slide out the bulb, slide the new bulb in and replace the grommet and cap. The hard part of a replacement will be having enough "out feed" room--if you are changing 300mm bulbs and there is only 100mm of space in the case.
post #1362 of 4442
I found another leak. I'm still installing software on the HTPC and learning how to use it, so luckily it's where I can see it instead of tucked away where this sort of thing could kill it. The culprit, again, is a cracked lock collar. This time I took pictures (see below). I believe they show two things: (1) Uneven glue application (2) cracked collar.

I just hate the stupid glue. I made my best effort to apply enough of it and do it evenly, but it appears not to have been successful. This stuff appears to require unusual skills to apply effectively. I don't know if the collar cracked as a result of the glue issues, or for some other reason. The tube in question is absolutely perfect: each end sits flush and snug against its respective fitting, and the compression rings screw on and off effortlessly, so this is not a case of a slight misalignment stressing the collar and causing it to fracture.

I'm posting this, and the supporting pictures, with the full expectation that the explanation will turn out to be user error. I'd just like to figure it out before I destroy my system. Nevertheless, I still maintain that these fittings are a bad idea. They violate the KISS principle, they are complex, fiddly, and prone to failure. All they have going for them is their undeniable good looks, but that's not enough to counterbalance their shortcomings. A product like this should not require a master artisan to install correctly.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


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post #1363 of 4442
I am just not sure why you are having so much trouble. The poly carbonate lock collars are virtually impossible to crack as poly will deform LONG before it separates. The resistance to cracking and shattering is why PC is used for riot shields and safety glasses.

It is hard to see in the picture which item you think is a crack in the lock collar with all the voids but the only thing I see that looks "crack like" is under the cap. Almost like there was a crack in the end of the tube. Is the tube acrylic?

Are you using alcohol or some other chemical to clean these parts prior to bonding on the cap? What is the serious abraded areas on the outside of the cap? The only time I have seen massive abrasions like that are when people try to pry a partially cured cap off the tube with pliers.
post #1364 of 4442
Quote:
Originally Posted by jvillaveces View Post

I found another leak. I'm still installing software on the HTPC and learning how to use it, so luckily it's where I can see it instead of tucked away where this sort of thing could kill it. The culprit, again, is a cracked lock collar. This time I took pictures (see below). I believe they show two things: (1) Uneven glue application (2) cracked collar.

I just hate the stupid glue. I made my best effort to apply enough of it and do it evenly, but it appears not to have been successful. This stuff appears to require unusual skills to apply effectively. I don't know if the collar cracked as a result of the glue issues, or for some other reason. The tube in question is absolutely perfect: each end sits flush and snug against its respective fitting, and the compression rings screw on and off effortlessly, so this is not a case of a slight misalignment stressing the collar and causing it to fracture.

I'm posting this, and the supporting pictures, with the full expectation that the explanation will turn out to be user error. I'd just like to figure it out before I destroy my system. Nevertheless, I still maintain that these fittings are a bad idea. They violate the KISS principle, they are complex, fiddly, and prone to failure. All they have going for them is their undeniable good looks, but that's not enough to counterbalance their shortcomings. A product like this should not require a master artisan to install correctly.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)



Ya dude something else is wrong, are you using chemicals on them like gene said. I have seen PETG smashed with a hammer and it still doesn't crack it isn't that easy to crack. That either isnt PETG, or there is something else going on because PETG doesn't crack.
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post #1365 of 4442
Does anyone else have issues with PPCS website being the SLOWEST SITE EVER CREATED. I feel like they use geocities for hosting or something
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post #1366 of 4442
Quote:
Originally Posted by DaClownie View Post

Does anyone else have issues with PPCS website being the SLOWEST SITE EVER CREATED. I feel like they use geocities for hosting or something

Yea their website is really slow, they need to upgrade their server. At first I thought there is some serious issue with their website or the person that created it. But now after years and years, I came back and it still slow.
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post #1367 of 4442
Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods View Post

I am just not sure why you are having so much trouble. The poly carbonate lock collars are virtually impossible to crack as poly will deform LONG before it separates. The resistance to cracking and shattering is why PC is used for riot shields and safety glasses.

It is hard to see in the picture which item you think is a crack in the lock collar with all the voids but the only thing I see that looks "crack like" is under the cap. Almost like there was a crack in the end of the tube. Is the tube acrylic?

Are you using alcohol or some other chemical to clean these parts prior to bonding on the cap? What is the serious abraded areas on the outside of the cap? The only time I have seen massive abrasions like that are when people try to pry a partially cured cap off the tube with pliers.

In the first picture there is a vertical line from the top to the bottom of the collar. That's a crack, My tubing is Monsoon PETG. I've only run distilled water in the loop up to this point, and I've never used alcohol on any part of the loop. The tubing was cut with a tubing cutter, and the end is actually nice and smooth, what appears to be cracks on it is actually uneven glue between tube and collar. The abrasions on the outside are caused by the compression ring rubbing against the lock collar when screwed on and off.

EDIT: I will remake that tube segment tonight, which will require cutting in half to recover the compression rings. Geno, if you are interested, I can mail you the pieces so that you can inspect them in person.
Edited by jvillaveces - 2/2/16 at 2:03pm
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post #1368 of 4442
Quote:
Originally Posted by jvillaveces View Post

In the first picture there is a vertical line from the top to the bottom of the collar. That's a crack, My tubing is Monsoon PETG. I've only run distilled water in the loop up to this point, and I've never used alcohol on any part of the loop. The tubing was cut with a tubing cutter, and the end is actually nice and smooth, what appears to be cracks on it is actually uneven glue between tube and collar. The abrasions on the outside are caused by the compression ring rubbing against the lock collar when screwed on and off.

EDIT: I will remake that tube segment tonight, which will require cutting in half to recover the compression rings. Geno, if you are interested, I can mail you the pieces so that you can inspect them in person.

I would actually like to see them if it is not a huge amount of trouble for you. I feel a little bad when I have to ask questions to figure out what is going on because I know it sounds like I am trying to point the finger at you--there really is no other way to gather information and not sound that way. You said you used a tube cutter? A rotary wheel type? Those are intended for metal tube and cut by applying a LOT of pressure to the tube to create that break point. They are not really intended for cutting plastic tube--maybe they are OK on semi flexible tube like poly pipe but not so much on rigid plastic tube.

When we mention alcohol the intent is not that you might be running alcohol in your loop. There is a sort of "initiation" type mistake that pretty much everyone that is new to modding makes (I did it myself in a HUGE way) where you take Windex or a similar window cleaner or denatured alcohol and clean acrylic parts with it prior to a bonding or painting operation. Alcohol causes some plastics to crack like ice trays. Sometimes you wipe the part down and within minutes it is just destroyed. Other times it might take hours or even weeks for the cracks to form. That is why you should always clean plastic parts with warm soapy water (aka dish soap) and never use any type of glass cleaner.

The lock collars are Poly Carbonate which is often referred to as "Lexan". It is virtually shatter proof which is why it is often used in safety goggles. Below is a picture of the old/original acrylic lock collars and the newer poly carbonate we switched to. It is the highly scientific stomp test. Put the lock collars on the floor and stomp the crap out of them. The PC collar was compressed with so much force that it creased on each side and it still deformed rather than cracking.

post #1369 of 4442
Also, one other item. I have never seen the compression ring tear up a lock collar like that. Because all of the abrasion is on one side it suggests that the tube was pretty far out of alignment and you hat to force it over into place pretty severely when you installed it. That causes the tube to hit the fitting base at a pretty steep angle. Not optimal for obvious reasons

Before you cut the tube I would suggest trying two seals (double them up) as you might just be very unevenly "mapped" onto the base because of that angle and that could be causing the leak.
post #1370 of 4442
Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods View Post

Also, one other item. I have never seen the compression ring tear up a lock collar like that. Because all of the abrasion is on one side it suggests that the tube was pretty far out of alignment and you hat to force it over into place pretty severely when you installed it. That causes the tube to hit the fitting base at a pretty steep angle. Not optimal for obvious reasons

Before you cut the tube I would suggest trying two seals (double them up) as you might just be very unevenly "mapped" onto the base because of that angle and that could be causing the leak.

Geno, I'm well aware of the effects of alcohol on acrylic, so no alcohol, or Windex, or anything similar, near my loop. Your advice about a double gasket sounds appealing, but even if it worked, I'd be forever nervous about that joint, so I'm still going to redo the whole thing. You won't believe me until you see it with your own eyes, but the abrasion is not localized, it's more circular in nature. As soon as I'm done posting this, I'll get to work on the new tube. PM me a mailing address and I will send you the pieces so you can do a proper necropsy. If I have caused this situastion through some stupid mistake, I'm very interested in learning about it so I don't keep repeating it. If (as I would obviously prefer to think) the problem is with the product and not with the consumer, I'm sure YOU would be interested in finding out.
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(24 items)
 
Quantum
(24 items)
 
Overkill HTPC
(18 items)
 
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i7 4790k Asus Z97-Deluxe EVGA GeForce GTX980 Ti SC ACX2.0 EVGA GeForce GTX980 Ti SC ACX2.0 
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Corsair Dominator Platinum 2133 MHz Intel 730 Samsung 850 Pro Asus DRW-24B1ST 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
EK Supremacy EVO nickel-plexi Monsoon Free Center compression fittings (gold) PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT crystal clear Alphacool 140mm 
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Aquaero 6 Pro EK-FC Titan X - Nickel (x2) Alphacool Nexxxos XT45 280 mm Black Ice GTS 280 x 60 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
aquacomputer d5 pump mechanics with usb and aqu... Bitspower Dual D5 Mod Top - POM Version Bitspower D5 / MCP655 Pump Mod Top S Model - Ac... Bitspower Water Tank Z-Multi 150 Inline Reservo... 
OSKeyboardPowerCase
Windows 10 Pro x64 Razer Ultimate Corsair AX 1200i Corsair 760T 
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i7 5930k Asus X99 Deluxe EVGA Titan X SC Corsair Vengeance 
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WD Black Kingston HyperX Intel 730 Bitspower D5 upgrade kit 
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EK Supremacy EVO Nickel Plexi EK Titan X Original CSQ Monsoon free center compression fittings 1/2-3/4 Masterkleer Clear UV 1/2-3/4 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Mayhems X1 UV clear coolant Aquacomputer Aquaero 6 Pro Aquacomputer Flow Sensor MPS 400 USB EK Coolstream XE 240 mm 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Noctua NF-F12 Industrial PPC 2000 pwm Aquacomputer D5 PWM Bitspower D5 mod top Bitspower D5 mod kit 
CoolingOSPowerCase
Bitspower Water Tank Z Multi 100 Windows 10 Pro Corsair HX1000i NZXT Phantom 630 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
core i5 6500 Asus Maximus VIII Gene  EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB SC+ GAMING ACX 2.0+  Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR4 DRAM... 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingCooling
Samsung 950 PRO -Series 256GB PCIe NVMe - M.2 I... Pioneer Electronics Internal Blu-Ray Writer (BD... EK Coolstream SE 240  EK Coolstream SE120 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Swiftech MCP655 PWM EK-XRES 100 Revo D5 Pump Top/Reservoir - Acetal EK-FB ASUS M8G Monoblock - Nickel EK-FC Titan X/GTX980 Ti Waterblock - Nickel 
CoolingCoolingCoolingOS
Monsoon Free Center Hardline Compression Fittin... Monsoon PETG Hardline Tube 1/2 x 5/8  EK-Vardar F4-120 (2200rpm) High Performance Liq... Windows 10 Home 
PowerCase
Seasonic 1050 Watt Gold Steiger Dynamics LEET Chassis 
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Eldorado
(24 items)
 
Quantum
(24 items)
 
Overkill HTPC
(18 items)
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
i7 4790k Asus Z97-Deluxe EVGA GeForce GTX980 Ti SC ACX2.0 EVGA GeForce GTX980 Ti SC ACX2.0 
RAMHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
Corsair Dominator Platinum 2133 MHz Intel 730 Samsung 850 Pro Asus DRW-24B1ST 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
EK Supremacy EVO nickel-plexi Monsoon Free Center compression fittings (gold) PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT crystal clear Alphacool 140mm 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Aquaero 6 Pro EK-FC Titan X - Nickel (x2) Alphacool Nexxxos XT45 280 mm Black Ice GTS 280 x 60 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
aquacomputer d5 pump mechanics with usb and aqu... Bitspower Dual D5 Mod Top - POM Version Bitspower D5 / MCP655 Pump Mod Top S Model - Ac... Bitspower Water Tank Z-Multi 150 Inline Reservo... 
OSKeyboardPowerCase
Windows 10 Pro x64 Razer Ultimate Corsair AX 1200i Corsair 760T 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 5930k Asus X99 Deluxe EVGA Titan X SC Corsair Vengeance 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveCooling
WD Black Kingston HyperX Intel 730 Bitspower D5 upgrade kit 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
EK Supremacy EVO Nickel Plexi EK Titan X Original CSQ Monsoon free center compression fittings 1/2-3/4 Masterkleer Clear UV 1/2-3/4 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Mayhems X1 UV clear coolant Aquacomputer Aquaero 6 Pro Aquacomputer Flow Sensor MPS 400 USB EK Coolstream XE 240 mm 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Noctua NF-F12 Industrial PPC 2000 pwm Aquacomputer D5 PWM Bitspower D5 mod top Bitspower D5 mod kit 
CoolingOSPowerCase
Bitspower Water Tank Z Multi 100 Windows 10 Pro Corsair HX1000i NZXT Phantom 630 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
core i5 6500 Asus Maximus VIII Gene  EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB SC+ GAMING ACX 2.0+  Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR4 DRAM... 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingCooling
Samsung 950 PRO -Series 256GB PCIe NVMe - M.2 I... Pioneer Electronics Internal Blu-Ray Writer (BD... EK Coolstream SE 240  EK Coolstream SE120 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Swiftech MCP655 PWM EK-XRES 100 Revo D5 Pump Top/Reservoir - Acetal EK-FB ASUS M8G Monoblock - Nickel EK-FC Titan X/GTX980 Ti Waterblock - Nickel 
CoolingCoolingCoolingOS
Monsoon Free Center Hardline Compression Fittin... Monsoon PETG Hardline Tube 1/2 x 5/8  EK-Vardar F4-120 (2200rpm) High Performance Liq... Windows 10 Home 
PowerCase
Seasonic 1050 Watt Gold Steiger Dynamics LEET Chassis 
  hide details  
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