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post #2711 of 4504
Quote:
Originally Posted by red eye View Post

twice this has happened three times. Twice on the same tube each end, res to soft tube while sorting out wiring and cleaning filter. And on cpu to soft tube join, this one was a squirted happened while gaming make sure to key the surfaces or the glue won't stick, specially if it's a hard line joined to soft tube.

Just like to add that there is nothing wrong with the product, the idea is sound. I know that smooth surfaces need keying. I missed that trying to get my of back together.

Not entirely sure what is being said here--likely it is a translation issue--but based on that picture I can say...if the surfaces you are trying to bond together are waxed like a mold or coated with oil this is exactly what you would expect for a result. Before you bond on the lock collars it is a best practice to wash both the lock collar and the end of the tube in hot soapy water and rinse them thoroughly. Then allow them to air dry for 5 or 10 minutes.

Do not use Windex or any cleaners normally used for cleaning glass. Plain old dish soap and hot water work best.

There is no need to "key" either the tube or the lock collar as the UV cure adhesive forms a chemical bond with the tube. They do however need to be clean and free of any oil or dirt from handling, so after you wash them avoid touching the cleaned surfaces.
post #2712 of 4504
Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods View Post

Not entirely sure what is being said here--likely it is a translation issue--but based on that picture I can say...if the surfaces you are trying to bond together are waxed like a mold or coated with oil this is exactly what you would expect for a result. Before you bond on the lock collars it is a best practice to wash both the lock collar and the end of the tube in hot soapy water and rinse them thoroughly. Then allow them to air dry for 5 or 10 minutes.

Do not use Windex or any cleaners normally used for cleaning glass. Plain old dish soap and hot water work best.

There is no need to "key" either the tube or the lock collar as the UV cure adhesive forms a chemical bond with the tube. They do however need to be clean and free of any oil or dirt from handling, so after you wash them avoid touching the cleaned surfaces.

I wiped mine with a bit of kitchen towel and it worked fine, my issue was using too much glue because I cut the nib on the applicator wrong (hole too large) then only applying it to the collar. Again I've not fixed the issue with the remaining tube I need collars and more tubing for that.
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post #2713 of 4504
@ box gods
It's not a translation issue more of a little keypad, no mouse and a bit of auto correct issue.
I didt wash the collars but I used dish soap and a little water on the insert so it was all over my hands and the tube.
Edited by red eye - 7/12/16 at 5:29pm
post #2714 of 4504
Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Radnad View Post

Was this ever confirmed by @BoxGods? I can't seem to find it if it was. Also, is the lightport made in 1/2"? I can only find 3/4" and 5/8" on PPCS.

It will work but because of the recess on the plug side of the rotary, you will need to double up on the O-rings.

No. We do not make the Light Port Rotaries in 1/2" OD as there simply is not room for the second port on the 45-degree fitting.

Gotcha. Thanks for the explanation.
 
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post #2715 of 4504
Quote:
Originally Posted by Benjiw View Post

Is there a way to melt the glue on the collars? I have an air bubble that I've missed or I might of not used enough glue so now its leaking out the collar gap. Please help ASAP I need my PC badly.

EDIT:
I managed to suck glue into the gap between the collar and the tube to seal it but then the UV rays went to sleep, I now have another leak however on my gpu to cpu fitting but its probably due to too much strain because of how they both line up and the type of look I'm going for. I'll try re-gluing it and make do but I'm not 100% yet.
I got my tube measured and collard heated the tube and attached the tube, doing up the collars will pull the tube in to place. You won't end up with a perfectly straght tube. You don't want to heat it up to much just enough to bend it with a bit of force and were you want the kink.
It'll look something like this

And that device is an inspection lamp
Edited by red eye - 7/12/16 at 5:21pm
post #2716 of 4504
First Bend Attempt ...

Any feedback? One thing I noted is that the insert did have some play in the tube. Everything is Monsoon (tube, bending kit, etc).


LiqAsrt-0332-Bend.jpg
LiqAsrt-0333-Bend.jpg


Edit: The hard tube is 12.45mm external (sounds like 1/2" to me) and 9.5mm internal. The rubber tube ia a little hard to get a measure on but it (max) 8.2mm.

LiqAsrt-0334-Bend.jpg
Edited by ruffhi - 7/12/16 at 7:51pm
post #2717 of 4504
@ruffhi

It looks like that your bending tube is too small. I know you've mentioned that it's all monsoon products and therefore should fit together. Personally I also used only monsoon products when I did my build, however I used the red kit(1/2-5/8) and my bending tube didn't have that much room when inserted to the petg tube. I believe your "space" between the bending tube and the inside "wall2 of your rigid tube may be a reason to the looks in your second picture.

The first picture it seem you "overbend" your 90 degree. And that seem to be because you didn't use the mandrell "correct". The only reason I see why your tube overbend using the mandrell is that you didn't make sure that the rigid tube was "following" the curve of the mandrell while bending it.
Kind of like "you were going too fast" to make a turn at a junktion. Meaning you went too far straight out, before you were able to actually turn right.... If that makes any sense...

Anyway reguarding tube bending just practice, practice... It will become easier as times go by, and soon you'll be mastering it to perfection wink.gif

Good luck with your build..
post #2718 of 4504
Thx Malum ... I c&p'd your feedback to my thread.

I know exactly what you mean by 'missing the bend'. I have another few bends under my belt now and #2 was worse, #3 was about the same as #1 and #4 I am actually happy with.

I do need another silicone insert that fits(!).
post #2719 of 4504
The silicone bending rod should not be a tight fit and it is better if it isn't. If you have to sand on the silicone or oil it to get it in and out of the tube that leads to a lot of other issues. The example pictured in the green tube looks like it was not heated in a wide enough area along the tube, or the heated area was not centered on the bend. The silicone insert is soft--even if it was a tight fit incorrect temperature, uneven heating, incorrect location of heat application, incorrect bend speed, too mich pressure (pressing the tube into the mandrel too hard) etc. will cause issues because the insert can be easily deformed.

Bending tube is as much about feel and "hand skill" as anything else so there really isn't a substitute for practice. Get a few extra sticks of tube to practice on. Cut it into shorter pieces so it is easier to work with and see what is going on. Don't just keep doing the same things (heat time and area, bend speed, pressure, etc.) and expect a different / better result.

The reason I mention feel and hand skills is that there is no one EXACT formula. Like xx heat over xx area bent at xx speed with xx pressure. Some guys will prefer the tube slightly hotter and will bend a little faster with less pressure. Others might be more comfortable with less heat, slower bend speed, and more pressure. I have bent a fair amount of tube but I still do a few practice bends if I have not bent any tube in a month or two, or if I am using a new color or tube size or switching from acrylic to PETG etc.

Some common issues I see with new benders. Improperly prepared work area. Have everything set up and the area cleared of any obstacles--do a "cold" rehearsal of the actions you will take for the bend cycle to make sure everything is in place and there are no obstructions. Make sure you are applying the heat fairly close to where you will actually be bending and once you make the move from heat to mandrel don't dilly dick around. Being unsure where to heat is the number one cause of applying the heat to the wrong location on the tube. use a pencil (not a marker) and mark the center and each end of your bend. Be consistent with your marking habits so you can practice where you will heat in relation to your marks. Excessive force. Try to push and pull and press with as little pressure as will work. Almost everyone under heats the tube their first few practice bends and "cold" tube requires a lot more force. After they get the tube hot enough the inclination is to apply as much force as they did previously on the cold bends
post #2720 of 4504
I should also point out that a silicone bending rod that is a tight fit for a single bend becomes more and more unworkable with multiple bends in close proximity to each other. Our bending rods are not a stock off the shelf size. We have those extruded custom just for bending because stock sizes are way too tight.
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