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post #2721 of 4492
Thx BoxGods for your posts. I watched and re-watched your bending videos. Someone else here actually mentioned that I over-heated. I have about 11 rods and I expect I only need about 1½ so I have more than enough to 'play' with. I'll keep cutting short runs and test bending.

BTW - I tried the pencil marking for the heating location and I couldn't readily see the pencil marks while heating. I might need a softer pencil.
post #2722 of 4492
Quote:
Originally Posted by ruffhi View Post

Thx BoxGods for your posts. I watched and re-watched your bending videos. Someone else here actually mentioned that I over-heated. I have about 11 rods and I expect I only need about 1½ so I have more than enough to 'play' with. I'll keep cutting short runs and test bending.

BTW - I tried the pencil marking for the heating location and I couldn't readily see the pencil marks while heating. I might need a softer pencil.
A 2B rated pencil is perfect, you didn't over heat imo but to get the tube nice and soft before bending rotate it half as fast if you want to see how quick your tube is heating up it you put water in the tube it will start bubbling as it boils like I did when teaching myself. I didn't use the Monsoon bending tube I got one from somewhere else and it was slightly larger but it didn't stop kinking etc so I believe BoxGods when he says that the tube doesn't need to be the full bore size.
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post #2723 of 4492
Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods View Post

I should also point out that a silicone bending rod that is a tight fit for a single bend becomes more and more unworkable with multiple bends in close proximity to each other. Our bending rods are not a stock off the shelf size. We have those extruded custom just for bending because stock sizes are way too tight.

Oh god he's right, I broke some acrylic into my hand trying to remove the rod and I have a scar on my palm now, it took a good while to heat because it was a deep cut. mad.gif
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post #2724 of 4492
I was lucky to have some "old pro's" around to teach me how to bend tube. Guys who have worked in sign shops forever. Plastic tube is a walk in the park compared to some of the exotic glass tube they bend.
post #2725 of 4492
Still haven't seen PPCS put up the inverters yet. Looking forward to getting one though as a sata connection will be much cleaner then having to add a 4 pin molex just for an inverter.

I picked up a couple of the new ccfl fittings. The engineering on them is pretty slick. They work quite well. I also picked up a darkside rigid LED strip in hopes of using the outer tube of the fitting for the water seal and just install an LED strip inside instead of a ccfl. At least for the darkside strips, the tube is just a hair too small in diameter to allow this mod - like 1mm too small. It is so close, but no go. You could certainly daisy chain single LED's and stuff them inside though. Just food for though if anyone was thinking along the same lines.
post #2726 of 4492
I can see LED's for the white tubes as those diffuse the light pretty evenly...

Be REALLY careful modding the CCFL plugs. On the plug end of the tube, there is an O-ring seal in a groove that seals to the side of the tube. The tube is then bonded into the brass plug body after that seal so the adhesive is not exposed to water. You can mod in a smaller tube but you would need to replace the O-ring with a thicker one to ensure a positive seal.

I would not do it that way personally. I would just replace the guts (the rigid LED strip). The cap screws off and the inside of the tube is open and right there. Pretty simple.
post #2727 of 4492
That's basically what I was going to do. I installed the outer tube plug for the water seal, and was going to mod the LED strip to the replace the ccfl tube/wiring, but that brand of strip just doesn't fit that outer tube of the fitting. Other rigid led strips may, but the darkside ones are just a touch too big. I agree too, I wouldn't mess with that outer tube fitting at all or risk messing up the seal.
post #2728 of 4492
When I get time I will add an LED version of the plugs. Will be a while tho.
post #2729 of 4492
I'm finally getting around to finishing my new Skylake build after tons of delays. Today I discovered two things with the MMRS while testing it with the pump and flow meter outside the case. It's just the res, pump, mechanical flow meter, and 2 pieces of tubing.

1. The recessed ports on the FDP are only big enough for a plug, is this by design? I know fittings aren't meant to fit but I planned to use an extender to connect the pump. The only way I could get it to work without leaking was to double up on the o-rings on the extender, but this left almost no thread and made it difficult to get it started. It is currently working as I intended, but it would be nice if the recess was a little wider to at least accommodate extenders, or maybe I'm just the only fool who will ever use it that way.

2. I have my res return line going into a coupler in the middle of the res. It is creating a massive vortex which I wasn't expecting. After completly filling up and bleeding all the air out the vortex is almost gone, but a tiny sliver still remains. Once I add the restriction of the blocks, radiators, and elbows it could slow the flow enough so the vortex is non-existent, does that seem logical or should I plan to figure out some kind of anti-cyclone device.
 
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post #2730 of 4492
Quote:
Originally Posted by Radnad View Post

I'm finally getting around to finishing my new Skylake build after tons of delays. Today I discovered two things with the MMRS while testing it with the pump and flow meter outside the case. It's just the res, pump, mechanical flow meter, and 2 pieces of tubing.

1. The recessed ports on the FDP are only big enough for a plug, is this by design? I know fittings aren't meant to fit but I planned to use an extender to connect the pump. The only way I could get it to work without leaking was to double up on the o-rings on the extender, but this left almost no thread and made it difficult to get it started. It is currently working as I intended, but it would be nice if the recess was a little wider to at least accommodate extenders, or maybe I'm just the only fool who will ever use it that way.

2. I have my res return line going into a coupler in the middle of the res. It is creating a massive vortex which I wasn't expecting. After completly filling up and bleeding all the air out the vortex is almost gone, but a tiny sliver still remains. Once I add the restriction of the blocks, radiators, and elbows it could slow the flow enough so the vortex is non-existent, does that seem logical or should I plan to figure out some kind of anti-cyclone device.

1. The recess for the plug on the FDP is so it has a nice clean look as this part is used on the outside of the case probably 99% of the time. Sorry about that =( You could fairly easily increase the diameter of the recess with your dremel and a drum bit.

2. The anti-vortex tridents-the press in version, not the bolt on used with the TRP--can be installed in any of the molded parts. End Caps and couplers included. So you can use one in your coupler and it will kill any vortex resulting from a side facing inlet.
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