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post #2761 of 4492
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Quote:
Originally Posted by ruffhi View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Radnad View Post

Using tools properly is key to a good outcome. It does work, at least for 1000's of modders over about 20 years, but then each to their own also.

I totally agree. But I think Tomiger's question includes some wrinkles that I am not sure if your answer has address.

Part One - the hole will be 44mm diameter ...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tomiger View Post

3.) Now a question unrelated to product availability. I will be installing the FDP at the back of my case.

If you can find a reamer (is that really what they are called? I've been calling them step-drills) that goes all the way up to 44mm (that is 1.75") then great.

Part Two - the hole is being put into a sheet of mesh ...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tomiger View Post

However, the place where I need it installed has that mesh/hole surface, as shown below:


Processed By eBay with ImageMagick, z1.1.0. ||B2


I've used step-drills. When they step up in size, there is some drill kickback. You can just work straight through a solid piece ... but a piece that is mainly empty (ie the above mesh) may give some very unpleasant results as it steps up to the next size.

All of that said ... the FDP part includes a metal piece were only the inside part goes into the hole ... there is a lot of flang that can and (in the case of my 44mm hole) does cover up a lot of rough edges.
Step drill is the more appropriate name, but redneck slang we call em reamers. They make them pretty big, even bigger than 44mm. You just need a little practice to learn them and they work great. Should be one in every modders/rig builders tool kit.
Processed By eBay with ImageMagick, z1.1.0. ||B2
 
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post #2762 of 4492
Quote:
Originally Posted by Radnad View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Step drill is the more appropriate name, but redneck slang we call em reamers. They make them pretty big, even bigger than 44mm. You just need a little practice to learn them and they work great. Should be one in every modders/rig builders tool kit.
Processed By eBay with ImageMagick, z1.1.0. ||B2

The are great for solid panels, but personally i would never use one on mesh or recommend for someone to do that. Too easy to mess up the mesh with the if the cutting side grabs will bend the mesh or worse. Margin for error is 2 great to use imho.
post #2763 of 4492
Quote:
Originally Posted by seross69 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Radnad View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Step drill is the more appropriate name, but redneck slang we call em reamers. They make them pretty big, even bigger than 44mm. You just need a little practice to learn them and they work great. Should be one in every modders/rig builders tool kit.
Processed By eBay with ImageMagick, z1.1.0. ||B2

The are great for solid panels, but personally i would never use one on mesh or recommend for someone to do that. Too easy to mess up the mesh with the if the cutting side grabs will bend the mesh or worse. Margin for error is 2 great to use imho.

Each to their own, great thing about modding, no right or wrong way, end result is whats awesome.
 
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post #2764 of 4492
Depends on the thickness of the mesh and how well you have it clamped down IME. Step bits are a must in your tool kit.
post #2765 of 4492
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bear907 View Post

Depends on the thickness of the mesh and how well you have it clamped down IME. Step bits are a must in your tool kit.

Its all about the proper pressure of using the tool. Just like I see so many posts that people can't cut acrylic tube with a hacksaw because it breaks and cracks. You have to mod with your head, not your muscles.
 
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post #2766 of 4492
post #2767 of 4492
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tomiger View Post

A couple questions:

1.) I noticed a picture that was posted around the time that the white parts were made available to PPCs. It had the SAP pump with the white molded top. Is that white top available on PPCs? I don't believe you can order just the molded top, let alone in white. I've already painted one myself a while ago, but I plan on getting the other molded parts and would prefer to have everything was the same shade of white.

2.) I don't know if I've missed it somewhere in this thread, but is there an estimated date for the EV2 fittings being available?

3.) Now a question unrelated to product availability. I will be installing the FDP at the back of my case. I've seen examples of the FDP installed and I understand how it works. However, the place where I need it installed has that mesh/hole surface, as shown below:



What do you guys think is the best way to cut the circular hole for the FDP? Would the drill bit that is meant for the FDP work in this scenario or would it be easier/cleaner to just dremel out the tiny pieces of metal between the holes? And overall, is there anything that would prevent the FDP from working on such a surface? I don't have much hands-on experience with this type of work, so I don't want to try something that will not work and/or damage the case.

Thanks!

1. The molded white parts have been released and are at Performance already. This includes the TRP pump end cap but does NOT include the SAP pump top. We do not sell the SAP pump top as a stand alone part in either white or black plastic because the SAP sells as a complete kit--molded pump top, motor mounting tube, low profile mount.

2. EV2 fittings are done and shipping now. I will update this thread when and where they are in stock.

3. The FDP and FDP cap will work fine on mesh panels. As for how you drill the hole it depends on a few things. Steel or aluminum case? What tools do you own or have access to?

As a best practice:

1. Cut two small squares of either 1/8" or 1/4" plywood or similar material about 3 or 3 1/2 inches on a side. On one of them use the included template and mark the 44mm hole and the four mounting holes. Clamp the two pieces together and carefully drill the four mounting holes thru both pieces. While you have that drill bit loaded, and the pieces still clamped together, drill a 5th hole in the center of the 44mm hole location. This will be used as a pilot hole later when you drill the larger hole.

2. Unclamp the two pieces. Use the one you marked on the outside of the case and locate where you want to install the reservoir and FDP cap. Essentially what you are going to do is create a "sandwich" with the case panel as the "meat" and the two wood pieces as the "bread". Use small scrap screws and nuts to lock this sandwich together.

3. Make sure the sandwich is securely locked together AND is exactly where you want it. Use the 44mm diameter spade bit (available at the store where you bought your MMRS parts) and drill your 44mm hole using the small pilot hole you drilled nto your wood parts earlier. Remove the screws and wood pieces and use sand paper or a small file to deburr the edges of the hole as needed.

So why does the "Best Practice" method include the two scrap wood blocks? Because any type of drill bit will require solid material in the exact center of your 44mm hole and the chances are good you won't have that on the mesh back panel. You can't use a step or spade type bit without doing these steps because the drill bit will jump all over the place and end up beating the crap out of your case.

OK. With the Best Practices stuff out of the way the more likely method for most home shop builders is you throw blue painters tape over the area where you will be mounting the reservoir, use the included template and a sharpie to mark the 44mm hole and the 4 screw holes. Push the blue tape into the mesh pattern a bit so you can see where the solid material is. Use wire cutters or the spare blade from the Hardline cutting kit to "clip" out most of the mesh material from the big 44mm hole. Get within a few mmof the line (but not too close). Then use either a dremel sanding drum, round sanding block, or a curved file and "creep up" on the line gradually. Use a drill bit for the four mounting holes as needed.

The FDP Cap has a nice wide flange on it that will cover a multitude of sins and once installed everything will look nice and clean.

*EDIT*

If you are using a drill, or motor tool, wear eye protection.
Edited by BoxGods - 7/20/16 at 6:03pm
post #2768 of 4492
Best part of BoxGods' quote is ...
Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods View Post

The FDP Cap has a nice wide flange on it that will cover a multitude of sins and once installed everything will look nice and clean.

Ok, this part is pretty good too ...
Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods 
If you are using a drill, or motor tool, wear eye protection.
post #2769 of 4492
i am missing something what is the SAP ( stand alone pump ? )

and fdp ? ( linkys would be awesome ) so would an awesome webpage for monsoon !
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post #2770 of 4492
Quote:
Originally Posted by ruffhi View Post

Best part of BoxGods' quote is ...
Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods View Post

The FDP Cap has a nice wide flange on it that will cover a multitude of sins and once installed everything will look nice and clean.

Ok, this part is pretty good too ...
Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods 
If you are using a drill, or motor tool, wear eye protection.

Haha, BoxGods basically said when he made FDP, "be as bad as you want I will CYA"!
 
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Corsair AF140 Bitspower VG-NGTX960 Windows 7 Ultimate 64 bit Samsung Curved 27" S27D590C 
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Corsair Strafe RGB Apevia Iceburg 680 watts Apevia X-Sniper 2 EVGA Torq X3 Laser 
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AMD Phenom 9750 ASUS M3A78-CM PNY XLR8 GTX 460 Corsair XMS2 (4 x 1GB) 
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Hitachi 5K500 Silenx 92mm EFFIZIO Corsair SP 120 Red LED Antec 500watt 
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Intel Core i5-6400 Skylake ASRock A170A-X1/3.1 Gigabye G1 Gaming GTX 970 Windforce CORSAIR Vengeance LPX 16GB (4 x 4GB) 288-Pin DD... 
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Bykski CPU-XPR-A High Performance Acrylic Nicke... EKWB Acrylic Nickel GPU Block Monsoon MMRS Reservoir Bykski BY-PUMP-XPH-PA Water Cooling Pump 
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Koolance 240 30 FPI Radiator Magicool 280 14 FPI Radiator Bitfenix Spectre PWM 120mm Fan ML140 140mm PWM Premium Magnetic Levitation Fan 
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Windows 10 Pro Corsair RM Series 850 Thermaltake Suppressor F31 
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