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New products from Monsoon cooling - Page 278

post #2771 of 4512
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mega Man View Post

i am missing something what is the SAP ( stand alone pump ? )

and fdp ? ( linkys would be awesome ) so would an awesome webpage for monsoon !

Regulars in here tend to refer to the different parts by some form of their part numbers as a sort of short hand. FDP usually refers to two sub-groups of parts, the molded end cap, FDP-BASE which comes in either black or white, and the "caps" that fit the base and come in two types, (standard and spacer) two styles, (round or square) and all the monsoon colors.

SAP does refer to the Stand Alone Pump and you could think of it pretty much as just what that name implies. The other pump "version" is the TRP which stands for tube reservoir pump and is the end cap that you can mount a D5 to.

The best way to get up to speed is our youtube channel https://www.youtube.com/channel/UChL1NI3fGMdBK8oV9M9cc3Q

Sorry that our website is not up to date. Pure laziness on my part.
post #2772 of 4512
it is fine, i been paying attention ... mostly i just got busy at work, which is taking most of my time
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USS CLM8-1701
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post #2773 of 4512
Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods View Post

1. The molded white parts have been released and are at Performance already. This includes the TRP pump end cap but does NOT include the SAP pump top. We do not sell the SAP pump top as a stand alone part in either white or black plastic because the SAP sells as a complete kit--molded pump top, motor mounting tube, low profile mount.

2. EV2 fittings are done and shipping now. I will update this thread when and where they are in stock.

3. The FDP and FDP cap will work fine on mesh panels. As for how you drill the hole it depends on a few things. Steel or aluminum case? What tools do you own or have access to?

As a best practice:

1. Cut two small squares of either 1/8" or 1/4" plywood or similar material about 3 or 3 1/2 inches on a side. On one of them use the included template and mark the 44mm hole and the four mounting holes. Clamp the two pieces together and carefully drill the four mounting holes thru both pieces. While you have that drill bit loaded, and the pieces still clamped together, drill a 5th hole in the center of the 44mm hole location. This will be used as a pilot hole later when you drill the larger hole.

2. Unclamp the two pieces. Use the one you marked on the outside of the case and locate where you want to install the reservoir and FDP cap. Essentially what you are going to do is create a "sandwich" with the case panel as the "meat" and the two wood pieces as the "bread". Use small scrap screws and nuts to lock this sandwich together.

3. Make sure the sandwich is securely locked together AND is exactly where you want it. Use the 44mm diameter spade bit (available at the store where you bought your MMRS parts) and drill your 44mm hole using the small pilot hole you drilled nto your wood parts earlier. Remove the screws and wood pieces and use sand paper or a small file to deburr the edges of the hole as needed.

So why does the "Best Practice" method include the two scrap wood blocks? Because any type of drill bit will require solid material in the exact center of your 44mm hole and the chances are good you won't have that on the mesh back panel. You can't use a step or spade type bit without doing these steps because the drill bit will jump all over the place and end up beating the crap out of your case.

OK. With the Best Practices stuff out of the way the more likely method for most home shop builders is you throw blue painters tape over the area where you will be mounting the reservoir, use the included template and a sharpie to mark the 44mm hole and the 4 screw holes. Push the blue tape into the mesh pattern a bit so you can see where the solid material is. Use wire cutters or the spare blade from the Hardline cutting kit to "clip" out most of the mesh material from the big 44mm hole. Get within a few mmof the line (but not too close). Then use either a dremel sanding drum, round sanding block, or a curved file and "creep up" on the line gradually. Use a drill bit for the four mounting holes as needed.

The FDP Cap has a nice wide flange on it that will cover a multitude of sins and once installed everything will look nice and clean.

*EDIT*

If you are using a drill, or motor tool, wear eye protection.

Amen brother that is 1000% the right way to do it with a step bit
post #2774 of 4512
Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
1. The molded white parts have been released and are at Performance already. This includes the TRP pump end cap but does NOT include the SAP pump top. We do not sell the SAP pump top as a stand alone part in either white or black plastic because the SAP sells as a complete kit--molded pump top, motor mounting tube, low profile mount.

2. EV2 fittings are done and shipping now. I will update this thread when and where they are in stock.

3. The FDP and FDP cap will work fine on mesh panels. As for how you drill the hole it depends on a few things. Steel or aluminum case? What tools do you own or have access to?

As a best practice:

1. Cut two small squares of either 1/8" or 1/4" plywood or similar material about 3 or 3 1/2 inches on a side. On one of them use the included template and mark the 44mm hole and the four mounting holes. Clamp the two pieces together and carefully drill the four mounting holes thru both pieces. While you have that drill bit loaded, and the pieces still clamped together, drill a 5th hole in the center of the 44mm hole location. This will be used as a pilot hole later when you drill the larger hole.

2. Unclamp the two pieces. Use the one you marked on the outside of the case and locate where you want to install the reservoir and FDP cap. Essentially what you are going to do is create a "sandwich" with the case panel as the "meat" and the two wood pieces as the "bread". Use small scrap screws and nuts to lock this sandwich together.

3. Make sure the sandwich is securely locked together AND is exactly where you want it. Use the 44mm diameter spade bit (available at the store where you bought your MMRS parts) and drill your 44mm hole using the small pilot hole you drilled nto your wood parts earlier. Remove the screws and wood pieces and use sand paper or a small file to deburr the edges of the hole as needed.

So why does the "Best Practice" method include the two scrap wood blocks? Because any type of drill bit will require solid material in the exact center of your 44mm hole and the chances are good you won't have that on the mesh back panel. You can't use a step or spade type bit without doing these steps because the drill bit will jump all over the place and end up beating the crap out of your case.

OK. With the Best Practices stuff out of the way the more likely method for most home shop builders is you throw blue painters tape over the area where you will be mounting the reservoir, use the included template and a sharpie to mark the 44mm hole and the 4 screw holes. Push the blue tape into the mesh pattern a bit so you can see where the solid material is. Use wire cutters or the spare blade from the Hardline cutting kit to "clip" out most of the mesh material from the big 44mm hole. Get within a few mmof the line (but not too close). Then use either a dremel sanding drum, round sanding block, or a curved file and "creep up" on the line gradually. Use a drill bit for the four mounting holes as needed.

The FDP Cap has a nice wide flange on it that will cover a multitude of sins and once installed everything will look nice and clean.

*EDIT*

If you are using a drill, or motor tool, wear eye protection.

Thanks for the info! Due to my lack of space and materials, I will probably be going the quick and dirty route and covering up all of the screw-ups with the FDP cap.
 
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post #2775 of 4512
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tomiger View Post

Thanks for the info! Due to my lack of space and materials, I will probably be going the quick and dirty route and covering up all of the screw-ups with the FDP cap.

Most of us do =)
post #2776 of 4512
Any updates on the cold cathode inverters? I am getting close to finishing my build need a solution for these bad boys. I am running x4 total.

Thank you!

thumb.gif
post #2777 of 4512
Quote:
Originally Posted by ToxM82 View Post

Any updates on the cold cathode inverters? I am getting close to finishing my build need a solution for these bad boys. I am running x4 total.

Thank you!

thumb.gif

They should have arrived at Performance on Friday--or be there Monday depending on ship time. Will take them a day or two to have them up on the site I would guess so pretty much any time now.
post #2778 of 4512
Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods View Post

On an unrelated note.

If any of you guys happen to be into Trading Card Games, we just launched a pretty awesome Deck Box. A project I worked on with my son so a lot of fun.

You can check it out at www.boxgods.com

This is definitely an interesting product you've come up with. However, I feel that perhaps if you could come up with a version that can be used as a dice box (d20 FTW!), you would be able to diversify sales.
post #2779 of 4512
Quote:
Originally Posted by JbstormburstADV View Post

This is definitely an interesting product you've come up with. However, I feel that perhaps if you could come up with a version that can be used as a dice box (d20 FTW!), you would be able to diversify sales.

Well, the design is fairly modular so building it into different products is not all that hard. If you like you can PM me and we can discuss what you would want to see in a dice box =)
post #2780 of 4512
Update on EU resellers.

OCUK has received their first MMRS order--FINALLY biggrin.gif

Should start showing up on their site this week. They ordered fairly lightly to test the market so if you are in the EU and need MMRS parts I would not wait too long, just in case.
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