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post #4391 of 4504
Quote:
Originally Posted by pgdeaner View Post

First of all, forgive my artwork.



But is this essentially what you are describing?

That is one (of many) options. The mate kit can be a divider or a sort of...joiner for want of a better word. You could also put one of the couplers right up against the D5 end cap if you wanted the ports on that end.
post #4392 of 4504
Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods View Post

This one is above my pay grade...hopefully one of the arduino guys in here can advise you.

Not really. I did some checking and the answer to my question would have been answered if I'd bothered to use my eyeballs before asking: It's not really even a switch. It's a jumper, likely at the 12v line (before the voltage conversion) and it controls all the inverter jacks.

So... Let me ask this: What kind of voltage/amperage do your CCFL's pull? A google search suggest s up to around 3,000 volts (at extremely low amperage.)

I'm not accustomed to using very high voltage, and I have a great respect for electricity. It's shocking what it can do to you. tongue.gif It might actually be easier/cheaper (less risky) for me to use two inverters (one for each CCFL) and take advantage of the on/off jumper you already have in there.
    
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post #4393 of 4504
Quote:
Originally Posted by garyd9 View Post

Not really. I did some checking and the answer to my question would have been answered if I'd bothered to use my eyeballs before asking: It's not really even a switch. It's a jumper, likely at the 12v line (before the voltage conversion) and it controls all the inverter jacks.

So... Let me ask this: What kind of voltage/amperage do your CCFL's pull? A google search suggest s up to around 3,000 volts (at extremely low amperage.)

I'm not accustomed to using very high voltage, and I have a great respect for electricity. It's shocking what it can do to you. tongue.gif It might actually be easier/cheaper (less risky) for me to use two inverters (one for each CCFL) and take advantage of the on/off jumper you already have in there.

I see what you did there =)

They come in a 4 bulb version also but that would defeat your purpose of course.
post #4394 of 4504
A quick product idea:

Reservoir tubes are currently clear, frosted, or "warp core." The completely frosted looks really nice with a CCFL inside (as it defuses the light very nicely.) However, it also makes it difficult to see the water level.

Clear (and to some extent the "warp core") lets the vertical bright CCFL be seen with no diffusion... but it's easy to see the water level.

What might be nice is a frosted tube that has just a thin (2-5 mm) vertical strip that is un-frosted (clear.) That would allow seeing the water level through the thin unfrosted area... but that unfrosted strip could be normally positioned so that it's not visible.

Take care
Gary
    
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post #4395 of 4504
Redid my MMRS with my vert gpu upgrade, couldn't be more happy with the outcome! After over a year released and all the other reservoirs released since then MMRS is still my favorite and I recommend it every chance I get!

 
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post #4396 of 4504
Quote:
Originally Posted by Radnad View Post

Redid my MMRS with my vert gpu upgrade, couldn't be more happy with the outcome! After over a year released and all the other reservoirs released since then MMRS is still my favorite and I recommend it every chance I get!


Looks good, did you make a build log for that? I need to see more pics of that camo mod thumb.gif
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post #4397 of 4504
It looks like that pump is mounted at a 45 degree angle. How did you support that? It looks great!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Radnad View Post

Redid my MMRS with my vert gpu upgrade, couldn't be more happy with the outcome! After over a year released and all the other reservoirs released since then MMRS is still my favorite and I recommend it every chance I get!

post #4398 of 4504
Quote:
Originally Posted by garyd9 View Post

What might be nice is a frosted tube that has just a thin (2-5 mm) vertical strip that is un-frosted (clear.) That would allow seeing the water level through the thin unfrosted area... but that unfrosted strip could be normally positioned so that it's not visible.

On second thought (and after installing a completely frosted tube,) this probably isn't needed. I can see the water level through the frosting well enough if I have a CCFL inside the res (or I shine a light at the res.)

However, it leads me to a question I think I asked a few months ago: LED strips inside the reservoir instead of CCFL's. I know that most strips available today use 5050 LEDs which would be too wide. However, there's a fairly new product (difficult to find right now, but should be spreading) that uses AP102 2020 LED's. The strips are about half as wide as the currently available strips, and I think they'd fit inside the tube used for the CCFL (if the opening was larger.)

AP102's are fully and individually addressable. Try to imagine the effects possible with a dense strip of them (144/meter) diffused inside a frosted reservoir tube. Clear water in a clear frosted tube could suddenly be any color you wanted, or could take on various effects with moving colors. Monsoon could even sell optional controllers for the LED's (for those not wanting to wire some on their own.)

Oh, and I love this MMRS system. Even if I can't talk you into introducing a new product, I can always buy various parts to try the idea out on my own.

Edit: Just to better "explain", I taped a strip of addressable LED's inside my "warp core" (or whatever it's called) tube and made a very quick video through the frosted area. (You can see the reflection of the strip in the clear areas of the res, but my intention would be to have this in a fully frosted tube.) This is just a "rainbow" sequence of colors which is kind of boring compared to what can really be done:




Take care
Gary

Edit II: I found the company in Taiwan (or China?) that makes those 2020 LED's. Mounted on strips, they are 4mm wide and 1mm tall (2mm tall for water proof.) What is the diameter of the Monsoon MMRS CCFL tube? If it's 4mm or less, I should be able to shove one of these strips into the outer tube used to keep the CCFL's dry. Otherwise, I might be able to cobble together some fittings and a piece of PETG or acrylic tubing to at least prove the concept.
Edited by garyd9 - 9/6/17 at 6:34pm
    
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post #4399 of 4504
Quote:
Originally Posted by garyd9 View Post

On second thought (and after installing a completely frosted tube,) this probably isn't needed. I can see the water level through the frosting well enough if I have a CCFL inside the res (or I shine a light at the res.)

However, it leads me to a question I think I asked a few months ago: LED strips inside the reservoir instead of CCFL's. I know that most strips available today use 5050 LEDs which would be too wide. However, there's a fairly new product (difficult to find right now, but should be spreading) that uses AP102 2020 LED's. The strips are about half as wide as the currently available strips, and I think they'd fit inside the tube used for the CCFL (if the opening was larger.)

AP102's are fully and individually addressable. Try to imagine the effects possible with a dense strip of them (144/meter) diffused inside a frosted reservoir tube. Clear water in a clear frosted tube could suddenly be any color you wanted, or could take on various effects with moving colors. Monsoon could even sell optional controllers for the LED's (for those not wanting to wire some on their own.)

Oh, and I love this MMRS system. Even if I can't talk you into introducing a new product, I can always buy various parts to try the idea out on my own.

Edit: Just to better "explain", I taped a strip of addressable LED's inside my "warp core" (or whatever it's called) tube and made a very quick video through the frosted area. (You can see the reflection of the strip in the clear areas of the res, but my intention would be to have this in a fully frosted tube.) This is just a "rainbow" sequence of colors which is kind of boring compared to what can really be done:




Take care
Gary

Edit II: I found the company in Taiwan (or China?) that makes those 2020 LED's. Mounted on strips, they are 4mm wide and 1mm tall (2mm tall for water proof.) What is the diameter of the Monsoon MMRS CCFL tube? If it's 4mm or less, I should be able to shove one of these strips into the outer tube used to keep the CCFL's dry. Otherwise, I might be able to cobble together some fittings and a piece of PETG or acrylic tubing to at least prove the concept.

You can mount them outside the reservoir and get the same effect. I have 2 strips of 144/m density leds mounted on the back. I just taped them in out of laziness but it shouldn't be too hard to build something that attaches to the mounting points in the back which can hold a led extrusion up next to the reservoir tube.
 
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post #4400 of 4504
Quote:
Originally Posted by garyd9 View Post

A quick product idea:

Reservoir tubes are currently clear, frosted, or "warp core." The completely frosted looks really nice with a CCFL inside (as it defuses the light very nicely.) However, it also makes it difficult to see the water level.

Clear (and to some extent the "warp core") lets the vertical bright CCFL be seen with no diffusion... but it's easy to see the water level.

What might be nice is a frosted tube that has just a thin (2-5 mm) vertical strip that is un-frosted (clear.) That would allow seeing the water level through the thin unfrosted area... but that unfrosted strip could be normally positioned so that it's not visible.

Take care
Gary

Not a bad idea...though I think the water level is pretty visible already in the frosted. Will have to do a little experimenting and see.

Thanks for taking the time to post your idea =)
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