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post #4401 of 4504
Quote:
Originally Posted by Radnad View Post

Redid my MMRS with my vert gpu upgrade, couldn't be more happy with the outcome! After over a year released and all the other reservoirs released since then MMRS is still my favorite and I recommend it every chance I get!


I love LOVE that yellow.
post #4402 of 4504
Quote:
Originally Posted by garyd9 View Post

On second thought (and after installing a completely frosted tube,) this probably isn't needed. I can see the water level through the frosting well enough if I have a CCFL inside the res (or I shine a light at the res.)

However, it leads me to a question I think I asked a few months ago: LED strips inside the reservoir instead of CCFL's. I know that most strips available today use 5050 LEDs which would be too wide. However, there's a fairly new product (difficult to find right now, but should be spreading) that uses AP102 2020 LED's. The strips are about half as wide as the currently available strips, and I think they'd fit inside the tube used for the CCFL (if the opening was larger.)

AP102's are fully and individually addressable. Try to imagine the effects possible with a dense strip of them (144/meter) diffused inside a frosted reservoir tube. Clear water in a clear frosted tube could suddenly be any color you wanted, or could take on various effects with moving colors. Monsoon could even sell optional controllers for the LED's (for those not wanting to wire some on their own.)

Oh, and I love this MMRS system. Even if I can't talk you into introducing a new product, I can always buy various parts to try the idea out on my own.

Edit: Just to better "explain", I taped a strip of addressable LED's inside my "warp core" (or whatever it's called) tube and made a very quick video through the frosted area. (You can see the reflection of the strip in the clear areas of the res, but my intention would be to have this in a fully frosted tube.) This is just a "rainbow" sequence of colors which is kind of boring compared to what can really be done:




Take care
Gary

Edit II: I found the company in Taiwan (or China?) that makes those 2020 LED's. Mounted on strips, they are 4mm wide and 1mm tall (2mm tall for water proof.) What is the diameter of the Monsoon MMRS CCFL tube? If it's 4mm or less, I should be able to shove one of these strips into the outer tube used to keep the CCFL's dry. Otherwise, I might be able to cobble together some fittings and a piece of PETG or acrylic tubing to at least prove the concept.

I could easily add LED plugs to the product line--the issue is what to control those awesome addressable LED's. Most people are not going to be comfortable using an arudriono or similar and writing their own code. That does look amazing, and the ability to use color as a visual temp indicator is something we could all get behind of course.
post #4403 of 4504
Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods View Post

I could easily add LED plugs to the product line--the issue is what to control those awesome addressable LED's. Most people are not going to be comfortable using an arudriono or similar and writing their own code. That does look amazing, and the ability to use color as a visual temp indicator is something we could all get behind of course.

I think the first question would be what the inside diameter of CCFL acrylic "lense" is. It's possible that a thicker (and much easier to source) LED could fit in there. I'm only able to find the AP102 2020 _strips_ from a single source in Taiwan (or China?) and they want an arm and the leg to ship to the US. (A single 1 meter spool is 38 USD for the spool and an additional 35 USD shipping.) There are also 3535's that might still be able to fit.

As for controllers, you have a valid point. What if the MMRS system included some type of generic water tight clear tube (similar to the CCFL "lens" for the black/UV CCFL) with a much larger opening? That would give people the chance to shove whatever they want in there (assuming it fit.) For most, it might only be an LED strip controlled by their motherboard. For others, they might purchase a dedicated controller (or even build their own.)

I just don't know if the profit margin exists for that type of thing. I know _I_ would buy a couple, but I can't speak for anyone else. If this "tube" used the same (or mostly the same) parts as the CCFL tube, I think it'd lower production costs so that only the end (threaded) part would be needed (which is why I keep asking about that inside diameter.)

For the person suggesting I just tape it to the back: Yes, I can do that. In fact, I did almost exactly that in a previous build. I could also use the MMRS rear mounted CCFL double tubes instead of inserting a tube inside my res. However, that isn't the effect I'm trying to create. As well, my current case is glass panels on both sides, so the "rear" of my res is visible and that'd just look bad.
    
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post #4404 of 4504
The diameter of the tube is dictated by the G 1/4 opening in the reservoir--and we are already maxed out.
post #4405 of 4504
Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods View Post

The diameter of the tube is dictated by the G 1/4 opening in the reservoir--and we are already maxed out.

On the other hand, unless you reveal the information, the only way I'd have to figure it out what the ID is would be to break apart one of the CCFL-PLG assemblies... (and I really don't have any spares.)

If you were to tell me it's 1mm, then I'd stop thinking about shoving LEDs in there. If you were to say it's 5mm, then there'd be some hope of using your existing CCFL-PLG tube.

Again, will you tell me what the inner diameter of the CCFL-PLG outer "lens" tube is? Please? Pretty please? biggrin.gif If you tell me, I promise to keep buying Monsoon products. (Well, I probably would anyway.)

Thanks
Gary
    
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post #4406 of 4504
Quote:
Originally Posted by garyd9 View Post

For the person suggesting I just tape it to the back: Yes, I can do that. In fact, I did almost exactly that in a previous build. I could also use the MMRS rear mounted CCFL double tubes instead of inserting a tube inside my res. However, that isn't the effect I'm trying to create. As well, my current case is glass panels on both sides, so the "rear" of my res is visible and that'd just look bad.

I don't see how the effect is any different other than wanting to see it from other angles. My strips are 144/m density Neopixels so I can do those effects if I actually code it to, unless I'm completely misunderstanding you. One issue I do see is having shadows in there since the leds are directional. You'd have to shove two strips (back-to-back) in there for the backside to look as good as the front.

My case actually has glass side panels on both sides as well, but I can't really see the backside of my case where I have it. I'm also considering changing it to solid because I really don't want to look back there anyways. All the custom wiring I've done on my fans and the two arduinos don't make it look good.
 
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post #4407 of 4504
Quote:
Originally Posted by garyd9 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods View Post

The diameter of the tube is dictated by the G 1/4 opening in the reservoir--and we are already maxed out.

On the other hand, unless you reveal the information, the only way I'd have to figure it out what the ID is would be to break apart one of the CCFL-PLG assemblies... (and I really don't have any spares.)

If you were to tell me it's 1mm, then I'd stop thinking about shoving LEDs in there. If you were to say it's 5mm, then there'd be some hope of using your existing CCFL-PLG tube.

Again, will you tell me what the inner diameter of the CCFL-PLG outer "lens" tube is? Please? Pretty please? biggrin.gif If you tell me, I promise to keep buying Monsoon products. (Well, I probably would anyway.)

Thanks
Gary

If you measure the opening where the cfl tube slides in, its about 4.5mm. I don't have a caliper or anything so that is really just my best estimate with what I had to measure.
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post #4408 of 4504
Quote:
Originally Posted by garyd9 View Post

On the other hand, unless you reveal the information, the only way I'd have to figure it out what the ID is would be to break apart one of the CCFL-PLG assemblies... (and I really don't have any spares.)

If you were to tell me it's 1mm, then I'd stop thinking about shoving LEDs in there. If you were to say it's 5mm, then there'd be some hope of using your existing CCFL-PLG tube.

Again, will you tell me what the inner diameter of the CCFL-PLG outer "lens" tube is? Please? Pretty please? biggrin.gif If you tell me, I promise to keep buying Monsoon products. (Well, I probably would anyway.)

Thanks
Gary

Not like it is a secrete...I have posted the dimensions many times...and the product page for the plugs at most re-sellers includes a dimension chart =)

I am not at my workstation but if memory serves, the ID is 5mm and the wall is the minimum you can safely use--1.5mm I believe. That is 8mm so far. A G 1/4 hole has about 11mm of usable diameter. So you have 1.5mm of wall in the brass plug to fit the O-ring seals and threads etc.

Like I said--a 5mm ID is about the maximum you can safely get by with on a consumer level product submerged in water.

Also, as I mentioned before, putting LED's into the tube is not even a tiny issue--I could have that product ready in a week--it is how to drive the controllable LED's. Maybe 1 customer in 500 would want to spend the time and effort installing and programming an arduino. I have worked with two other companies that were all set to release "killer" LED controllers for PC use...and both ended up abandoning their projects because they felt the market just was not big enough to make it a profitable product.
Edited by BoxGods - 9/8/17 at 4:35pm
post #4409 of 4504
Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods View Post

Not like it is a secrete...I have posted the dimensions many times...and the product page for the plugs at most re-sellers includes a dimension chart =)
My apologies, then. I searched and the closest I was able to find was something that referred to the outer dimension of the acrylic colored piece that the CCFL inserts into as being 6mm. (Nothing I found mentioned the ID of that tube.)
Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods View Post

Also, as I mentioned before, putting LED's into the tube is not even a tiny issue--I could have that product ready in a week--it is how to drive the controllable LED's. Maybe 1 customer in 500 would want to spend the time and effort installing and programming an arduino. I have worked with two other companies that were all set to release "killer" LED controllers for PC use...and both ended up abandoning their projects because they felt the market just was not big enough to make it a profitable product.

This I can understand, which is why I was considering the alternative of trying to repurpose the outer tube that comes with the existing CCFL product. It appears it'll require thinner LED's than I currently have access to. At the moment, getting those 2020 sized AP102 strips is just too expensive for me. (In USD: 38 for a 1m strip + 40 shipping/processing.)

As for general public (who doesn't want to make their own controller), I considered the possibility of using a off the shelf controller (even a mass market one such as Corsair's "lighting pro" thing), but most of those only control WS2811 LED's, and I haven't seen even a hint of them coming in the thinner form factor that would be needed to fit into the EXISTING tube's made for the CCFL inserts.

Something could still be done (not by Monsoon or even mass market) by individual people by cutting a piece of 16 OD acrylic tubing with a big enough ID for a LED strip (12mm is fine)... then plugging one end and putting a standard compression fitting on the other. Insert the LED strip into that with the wires coming out of the compression fitting. The compression fitting would screw up to the INSIDE of the MMRS cap with the wires sticking up through the cap. (That handles the functional, but not cosmetic, requirements.) If the ID of the acrylic tube is large enough for the LED strip width, two strips can be inserted facing away from each other (and with a thin insulating layer between them to prevent shorts) to allow LED light to emit from both directions and prevent shadows.

(No, I don't know the best way to plug the end of the acrylic tube. In theory, a small flat circular piece of acrylic could be cut with a diameter matching the diameter of the tube, and then be chemically welded (acrylic solvent) to the tube.)

It's not a complicated problem. I was just trying to see what might be doable using the tubes that are sold with the CCFL's. That would be a more cosmetically appealing solution than having a compression fitting shoved up inside the cap and having loose wires sticking outside the top of the res without the pretty plug piece that the CCFL uses.
    
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post #4410 of 4504
Quote:
Originally Posted by garyd9 View Post

My apologies, then. I searched and the closest I was able to find was something that referred to the outer dimension of the acrylic colored piece that the CCFL inserts into as being 6mm. (Nothing I found mentioned the ID of that tube.)
This I can understand, which is why I was considering the alternative of trying to repurpose the outer tube that comes with the existing CCFL product. It appears it'll require thinner LED's than I currently have access to. At the moment, getting those 2020 sized AP102 strips is just too expensive for me. (In USD: 38 for a 1m strip + 40 shipping/processing.)

As for general public (who doesn't want to make their own controller), I considered the possibility of using a off the shelf controller (even a mass market one such as Corsair's "lighting pro" thing), but most of those only control WS2811 LED's, and I haven't seen even a hint of them coming in the thinner form factor that would be needed to fit into the EXISTING tube's made for the CCFL inserts.

Something could still be done (not by Monsoon or even mass market) by individual people by cutting a piece of 16 OD acrylic tubing with a big enough ID for a LED strip (12mm is fine)... then plugging one end and putting a standard compression fitting on the other. Insert the LED strip into that with the wires coming out of the compression fitting. The compression fitting would screw up to the INSIDE of the MMRS cap with the wires sticking up through the cap. (That handles the functional, but not cosmetic, requirements.) If the ID of the acrylic tube is large enough for the LED strip width, two strips can be inserted facing away from each other (and with a thin insulating layer between them to prevent shorts) to allow LED light to emit from both directions and prevent shadows.

(No, I don't know the best way to plug the end of the acrylic tube. In theory, a small flat circular piece of acrylic could be cut with a diameter matching the diameter of the tube, and then be chemically welded (acrylic solvent) to the tube.)

It's not a complicated problem. I was just trying to see what might be doable using the tubes that are sold with the CCFL's. That would be a more cosmetically appealing solution than having a compression fitting shoved up inside the cap and having loose wires sticking outside the top of the res without the pretty plug piece that the CCFL uses.

You should avoid acrylic for the tube if you can as it is prone to cracking--and much more so in the smaller diameter tubes. PETG would not do well with the heat. Your best bet is polycarbonate. Some sort of adhesive would work for a while but if at all possible welding the cap on the end of the tube is your best bet. I would love to make these and I think they would sell well enough to at least break even if there was a decent controller for them--therein lies the rub. I could easily manufacture the LED plugs and even the controller itself if I had a clue how to design the thing. It is a lot harder (and more expensive) to bring a product to market than people think. It is one thing to think something will sell. It is another to risk a month and $30,000 or more on it =)
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