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New products from Monsoon cooling - Page 47

post #461 of 4492
Quote:
Originally Posted by ruffhi View Post



Thanks for the comments. Good suggestion re the couplers / covers ... but I don't think I can do that short of cutting down one of the glass tubes. I think I will go with #1 for the initial view with BoxGods' #2 variant as a backup.

No cutting down of the tubes is required...the 9mm long tube in the mating kit (at 9mm I guess it is really a "ring" not a tube) is used between the two couplers--or between a TRP and a coupler if space constrained. Depending on the thickness of the divider panel you might be able to leave the flange on the ring. If not it is only 1mm thick plastic and could be easily and quickly removed--probably a 10 minute job--and since it is not seen it doesn't matter how it looks after you hacked off the flange. The ring would also be an excellent template for locating and drilling the holes thru your case divider panel.

Here is what the mating kit ring looks like. The kit will likely be at or about $10, (I still don't know costs yet so that is only an estimate) and will also include a second ring that is solid in the center for those who want to divide a reservoir into two reservoirs.



I am not pushing you that way of course--just making sure you know all of your options so you have the best chance of success =)
post #462 of 4492
I think we have some level of mis-communication going ... as I don't see how to do what I want to do and include this mating 'ring'.

The distance from the top of the case to the mid-chassis is 227mm (inner dimension). The panels are 2mm thick. I definitely want to anchor the top of the reservoir to the top of the case ... so ... how do I make sure that the body of the reservoir finishes just at the right place to put the mating ring on? Isn't cutting the glass tube down my only option?

Top section - 41mm high ... distance from top of case is 41mm
1st glass tube - 100mm ... distance from top of case is 141mm
2 port coupler - 29mm ... distance from top of case is 170mm
2nd glass tube - 50mm ... distance from top of case is 230mm

That is 3 mm too much ignoring the width of your mating ring. So if I cut a 50mm down to 45mm, assuming the mating ring is 2mm thick ... it would all line up.

Here is another idea ... what if your mating ring ...
pic of mating ring (Click to show)

... didn't have that 'flan' in the middle ... instead it allowed for a glass tube to pass right through the middle. That would make the mating ring also act / work as a collar and you could slide it up and down the glass tube as required to hide any drilling dings.
post #463 of 4492
The FDP part has the ability to add spacers. There is a spacer version of the round cap that lets you add up to 12mm of spacers. So...too long doesn't work but if you can figure out a configuration that is 1 to 12mm too short you are all set.

In the FDP video I mention that I was 6mm too short so I used a 3mm spacer on each end...same principle. I point to where they go though they are a bit hard to see.
post #464 of 4492
Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods View Post

I am still not clear what the exhaust tube is for--are you going to use it as your mandrel or "form"?

Speaking of hindsight...agreed--the second I saw "hemp rope" I had a DOH moment bigeyedsmiley.png

Are you going to try using a heat gun still or just go for the oven approach?

Yeah, it's the mandrel. What do you think on the heating process? I got 2 heat guns, so in my head I was picturing using one to heat up the pipe being used for the mandrel while having the 2nd warming on around the tube.

edit: oh and I got the paper and such off the silicone today. has done a pretty good job of curing, but the only thing I could think about as it hung limp in my hand was your sex toy comment. Once this is all said and done, I'll have to figure out how to turn it into a Christmas ornament. I'm sure my girlfriends parents will love it when I sneak it onto their tree.
Edited by DNMock - 11/6/15 at 11:50pm
post #465 of 4492
Quote:
Originally Posted by DNMock View Post

Yeah, it's the mandrel. What do you think on the heating process? I got 2 heat guns, so in my head I was picturing using one to heat up the pipe being used for the mandrel while having the 2nd warming on around the tube.

edit: oh and I got the paper and such off the silicone today. has done a pretty good job of curing, but the only thing I could think about as it hung limp in my hand was your sex toy comment. Once this is all said and done, I'll have to figure out how to turn it into a Christmas ornament. I'm sure my girlfriends parents will love it when I sneak it onto their tree.

Ho-Ho-Ho...

Not sure I would heat the mandrel...not sure I would use a round tubular item as the mandrel for that matter. Unless you cut it in half along the length and intend to use the inside of one half maybe? As for heating...I guess two heat guns would work if you had them positioned about 180 degrees frome each other and slightly off set--be sure to keep the tube moving and heat the entire length of the bend zone.

Also...just from my personal experience bending plastic over the years don't be discouraged if you don't get it right the first time as you almost never will because as a process a lot of it relies on feel or touch. A bit more "art" than mechanical in other words.
post #466 of 4492
Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods View Post

Ho-Ho-Ho...

Not sure I would heat the mandrel...not sure I would use a round tubular item as the mandrel for that matter. Unless you cut it in half along the length and intend to use the inside of one half maybe? As for heating...I guess two heat guns would work if you had them positioned about 180 degrees frome each other and slightly off set--be sure to keep the tube moving and heat the entire length of the bend zone.

Also...just from my personal experience bending plastic over the years don't be discouraged if you don't get it right the first time as you almost never will because as a process a lot of it relies on feel or touch. A bit more "art" than mechanical in other words.

Yup, it's the inside I was planning on using for the mandrel.




Utilizing the 2nd heat in some way maybe because I'm a little worried about the overall area getting hot enough to make a decent bend without burning or melting it. Just a wee bit more surface area to cover than on a regular 12mm pipe.
post #467 of 4492
Quote:
Originally Posted by DNMock View Post

Yup, it's the inside I was planning on using for the mandrel.




Utilizing the 2nd heat in some way maybe because I'm a little worried about the overall area getting hot enough to make a decent bend without burning or melting it. Just a wee bit more surface area to cover than on a regular 12mm pipe.

For sure. I would not put them side by side though. I would have them 180 degrees of each other and slightly off set.. This should be really interesting. Whatever the outcome my hats off to you for even trying =)
post #468 of 4492
Quote:
Originally Posted by DNMock View Post

Yup, it's the inside I was planning on using for the mandrel.




Utilizing the 2nd heat in some way maybe because I'm a little worried about the overall area getting hot enough to make a decent bend without burning or melting it. Just a wee bit more surface area to cover than on a regular 12mm pipe.

Don't keep us in suspense...how did it go?
post #469 of 4492
Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods View Post

Don't keep us in suspense...how did it go?

Sorry, was letting the silicone cure a little while longer...

Anyway, heat guns were a no go. Even with two going for 30 minutes, wasn't able to get it heated fast enough evenly to get it work.

So went to the oven and that did the job, was able to get it to bend. Unfortunately, hadn't tried the oven method before and didn't realize gas ovens were a bad idea...

So after all that I got a curved reservoir that looks like an aborted fetus and a dildo...
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

With an electric oven, and a few more trial runs seems like it should be doable.

Before sacrificing another reservoir though, I'm gonna try a different approach...
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

The inner diameter is at 60mm so in theory I should be able to just use a hose clamp and maybe some silicone gasket maker and get the curve just fine.

This brings me to my next question...

That silicone hose elbow, think it would be reasonable to attach it to the a fill/drain port base? As in Reservoir ---> Fill port base ----> silicone hose ---> Fill port base ---> Reservoir? Or, should I go Reservoir ---> Silicone hose ---> Reservoir?
Edited by DNMock - 11/9/15 at 6:37pm
post #470 of 4492
Quote:
Originally Posted by DNMock View Post

Sorry, was letting the silicone cure a little while longer...

Anyway, heat guns were a no go. Even with two going for 30 minutes, wasn't able to get it heated fast enough evenly to get it work.

So went to the oven and that did the job, was able to get it to bend. Unfortunately, hadn't tried the oven method before and didn't realize gas ovens were a bad idea...

So after all that I got a curved reservoir that looks like an aborted fetus and a dildo...
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

With an electric oven, and a few more trial runs seems like it should be doable.

Before sacrificing another reservoir though, I'm gonna try a different approach...
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

The inner diameter is at 60mm so in theory I should be able to just use a hose clamp and maybe some silicone gasket maker and get the curve just fine.

This brings me to my next question...

That silicone hose elbow, think it would be reasonable to attach it to the a fill/drain port base? As in Reservoir ---> Fill port base ----> silicone hose ---> Fill port base ---> Reservoir? Or, should I go Reservoir ---> Silicone hose ---> Reservoir?

I have had MUCH worse first attempts at bending...yours still looks like a tube...well sorta...if you hold your head sideways and squint a bit =)

Still seems like you are makng this much harder than it needs to be maybe? Use the FDP parts for external fill port on your desk top and one underneath for a drain port. FDP/50mm tube/EC-SP and connect those to the main tube via short lengths of tube.

Space not permitting...just let me machine you something custom...
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