Overclock.net › Forums › Components › Monitors and Displays › Is my QNIX dying?
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Is my QNIX dying? - Page 2

post #11 of 20
Well I guess you can't have everything you know? I'd rather have it have lead or or something inside than start on fire. I mean unless it's electrically better there isn't a point of buying it. I'm not downplaying the importance of RoHS compliance, it's just that the selection is almost zero anyway.

I can get to 132Hz before things start to get really bad. I start getting scan lines somewhere around 116Hz.
BTW you know about the custom timings right?

I can't get nearly that far without these to reduce pixel clock. I've also got a MASSIVE 24AWG wire. It must weigh 5 pounds. It's a full CM thick at least. It didn't help much though.

Anyway here's my timings:



Any lower and it flips out. Be careful with the 1443 and 2648. Start at 1445 and 2650 and work your way down slowly. I found that setting polarity settings negative let me set it from 1444 to 1443, any lower and the screen does the color patterns.
Also, for easy resetting when you go to far, turn on snap mouse pointer to default dialog box. Then you can just click once if you can't see since it snaps to "No" on the keep resolution dialog. thumb.gif

The downside of this is that colors are washed out and the display is much dimmer. It's a lot worse than going from 60 to 96Hz. You really should be on a multiple of 24Hz though. Otherwise 24fps media will skip frames. Ideally you'd be on 120Hz since it divides evenly into 24, 30, and 60. If not at least a multiple of 12 like 108Hz so it skips evenly.
post #12 of 20
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by cookieboyeli View Post

Well I guess you can't have everything you know? I'd rather have it have lead or or something inside than start on fire. I mean unless it's electrically better there isn't a point of buying it. I'm not downplaying the importance of RoHS compliance, it's just that the selection is almost zero anyway.

I can get to 132Hz before things start to get really bad. I start getting scan lines somewhere around 116Hz.
BTW you know about the custom timings right?

I can't get nearly that far without these to reduce pixel clock. I've also got a MASSIVE 24AWG wire. It must weigh 5 pounds. It's a full CM thick at least. It didn't help much though.

Anyway here's my timings:



Any lower and it flips out. Be careful with the 1443 and 2648. Start at 1445 and 2650 and work your way down slowly. I found that setting polarity settings negative let me set it from 1444 to 1443, any lower and the screen does the color patterns.
Also, for easy resetting when you go to far, turn on snap mouse pointer to default dialog box. Then you can just click once if you can't see since it snaps to "No" on the keep resolution dialog. thumb.gif

The downside of this is that colors are washed out and the display is much dimmer. It's a lot worse than going from 60 to 96Hz. You really should be on a multiple of 24Hz though. Otherwise 24fps media will skip frames. Ideally you'd be on 120Hz since it divides evenly into 24, 30, and 60. If not at least a multiple of 12 like 108Hz so it skips evenly.

That's true. I guess I'll settle for what I have now then. I plan on getting a PG279Q anyway in a few month anyway.

As far as timings, I have tried custom timings in the past but could never achieve 120hz without scan lines. Even at 110hz, I do get scan lines, although they are much less noticeable. They look like shadowy horizontal lines flickering, and I can only really notice them if I stare at my monitor with a bright background. Also, going from 110 to 120hz makes the screen noticeably darker and more washed out, at least to me, and I don't notice a huge difference in 10hz, so that is why I keep it at 110hz. As for as media playback, I can't say my discerning eyes have ever noticed skipped frames. Does that happen frequently in 24fps media? I usually stream media to my TV, but there are some exceptions, like anime that I watch on my monitor. But with anime, I use Smooth Video Project to watch shows in 110fps. I normally hate that soap opera effect seen on TV's with motion interpolation, but I enjoy it with anime. I don't think I have ever noticed dropped frames in gaming either, and this monitor is notorious of doing that when overclocked.
post #13 of 20
I also use SVP, which is allll the more reason to set your display AT LEAST to 108Hz. You're probably creating a lot of extra work and artifacts by having 110Hz instead of 108Hz. I mean SVP has to multiply your frames by 4.583333333333333∞ which can't end well redface.gif where as with 108Hz it's a much cleaner 4.5. And if you don't notice dropped frames then you definitely won't notice 2Hz. thumb.gif

That flickering happens to me when I turn display brightness all the way down in a hot room. That's unlike any bad overclock scan lines I've ever seen. I'd actually wager that IS the power brick being shoddy. Especially because your Max OC before total failure is much, MUCH higher than mine, which I can still achieve 120Hz with. Usually you'd be seeing colored lines only on BLACK screens. Your flickering is probably present on black and white backgrounds at that Hz but it's just not visible to the human eye on black.
Edited by cookieboyeli - 9/9/15 at 2:08pm
post #14 of 20
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by cookieboyeli View Post

I also use SVP, which is allll the more reason to set your display AT LEAST to 108Hz. You're probably creating a lot of extra work and artifacts by having 110Hz instead of 108Hz. I mean SVP has to multiply your frames by 4.583333333333333∞ which can't end well redface.gif where as with 108Hz it's a much cleaner 4.5. And if you don't notice dropped frames then you definitely won't notice 2Hz. thumb.gif

That flickering happens to me when I turn display brightness all the way down in a hot room. That's unlike any bad overclock scan lines I've ever seen. I'd actually wager that IS the power brick being shoddy. Especially because your Max OC before total failure is much, MUCH higher than mine, which I can still achieve 120Hz with. Usually you'd be seeing colored lines only on BLACK screens. Your flickering is probably present on black and white backgrounds at that Hz but it's just not visible to the human eye on black.

If that's the case, would it make more sense to drop my monitor's refresh rate to 96hz when watching anime with SVP, or even with any 24fps media? 96hz would be even better than 108hz right?

Oh and that's good to know! Now that I'm using a different power break I guess I will try and see if I can tweak my timings and get it stable at 120hz. Though even at 110hz my screen does have bad image retention if I leave the same thing up for a long time (ie toolbar from browser will still be "burned in" my screen even when I have my browser minimized). I guess that's another aftereffect of the overclock.
post #15 of 20
Yes 96Hz would be a much better option than 108Hz.

Yea I think a higher overclock can amplify burn in, probably because it's based on the amount of refreshes. At 96Hz I have no image retention at all, but I do remember getting some at 120Hz after a few days.
post #16 of 20
reporting back i've been at 60hz since my last post and there have been no issues since then.
    
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5-2550k @ 4.5GHz - 1.375v Asus P8Z68-V Pro/Gen3 EVGA GTX 980 Corsair 8GB Vegeance DDR3-1600 1.5v 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveCooling
Crucial 128GB SSD Two 2TB Samsung F4 HDDs 3TB Toshiba HDD Noctua NH-D14 
OSMonitorMonitorKeyboard
Windows 7 x64 Ultimate QNIX QX2710LED Achieva Shimian QH270-LITE Ducky Shine II Brown MX Switches w/ Green Backl... 
PowerCaseMouseMouse Pad
Seasonic X750 Corsair 400R Logitech G500 Steelseries 
AudioAudioAudioAudio
Gustard H10 Headphone Amplifier Audio-Technica AD900X HE-560 Headphone Sennheiser HD 650 
  hide details  
Reply
    
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5-2550k @ 4.5GHz - 1.375v Asus P8Z68-V Pro/Gen3 EVGA GTX 980 Corsair 8GB Vegeance DDR3-1600 1.5v 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveCooling
Crucial 128GB SSD Two 2TB Samsung F4 HDDs 3TB Toshiba HDD Noctua NH-D14 
OSMonitorMonitorKeyboard
Windows 7 x64 Ultimate QNIX QX2710LED Achieva Shimian QH270-LITE Ducky Shine II Brown MX Switches w/ Green Backl... 
PowerCaseMouseMouse Pad
Seasonic X750 Corsair 400R Logitech G500 Steelseries 
AudioAudioAudioAudio
Gustard H10 Headphone Amplifier Audio-Technica AD900X HE-560 Headphone Sennheiser HD 650 
  hide details  
Reply
post #17 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by doco View Post

reporting back i've been at 60hz since my last post and there have been no issues since then.
Interesting. I'll let you know if there's any improvement in stability etc. after I test my new power brick. I just don't want to believe that the PCB isn't good enough.
post #18 of 20
My power brick is in, although it did take FOREVER to get here.

Results are, it's only lukewarm! biggrin.gif Which is much better already than practically burning me like the original did! There is a spot on the bottom that is slightly warmer than the rest, but again, only warm.
It IS rated for 6 amps output which is better than the stock 5 amps. Input is 1.6 amps as well. This means it can output 72w instead of 59w.
It is a bit bigger, but not much. The cord seems a little thicker and higher quality as well as the casing. The wall plug is NOT grounded as it plugs into the charge by a two prong plug, but I knew this when buying. I don't think it will be an issue because it is absolutely much higher quality and UL certified.

More importantly, it still flickers quite noticeably on the lowest brightness setting, although slightly less then before, AND it's NOT going blank or shutting off on the lowest setting no matter what I do. This was an issue before.

And now what you've all been waiting to hear...
I can overclock to 120Hz WITHOUT GETTING COLORED LINES! Yes, that's right. Using the same exact timings as before, I was able to overclock the monitor to 120Hz without getting horizontal lines across the screen occasionally. Maybe it's a little too early to say for sure, but I think it would have artifacted by now. I will be keeping it on 120Hz for a while just to verify.

And now I can sell the original adapter on Ebay for $20. The new adaptor cost $11.89. Making money by upgrading lol! thumb.gif
post #19 of 20
i bought a nice power brick from radio shack over 2 years ago, been at 110hz full brightness for that entire two years with 0 issues or overheating anywhere. biggrin.gif
    
CPUGraphicsRAMHard Drive
i7-7820HK Kaby Lake @ 4.2Ghz GTX 1070 @ 2Ghz boost @ 9008Mhz Vram 16GB 2x8 DDR4 2133 Samsung 960 EVO 500GB NVMe 
Hard DriveCoolingOSMonitor
5TB Seagate 2.5" 5400RPM Grizzly Conductonaut on GPU and CPU Win 10 Bloatware Free Edition 17.3" 1080p IPS oc'd 100hz GSYNC 
  hide details  
Reply
    
CPUGraphicsRAMHard Drive
i7-7820HK Kaby Lake @ 4.2Ghz GTX 1070 @ 2Ghz boost @ 9008Mhz Vram 16GB 2x8 DDR4 2133 Samsung 960 EVO 500GB NVMe 
Hard DriveCoolingOSMonitor
5TB Seagate 2.5" 5400RPM Grizzly Conductonaut on GPU and CPU Win 10 Bloatware Free Edition 17.3" 1080p IPS oc'd 100hz GSYNC 
  hide details  
Reply
post #20 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by caenlen View Post

i bought a nice power brick from radio shack over 2 years ago, been at 110hz full brightness for that entire two years with 0 issues or overheating anywhere. biggrin.gif
Yup, seems that UL rating is a pretty good indicator of overheating. My brothers chinese adapter just melted itself the other day. He came in with it dangling by the cord and said "here touch this" and I grabbed it and burnt my hand. Little schiit. haha tongue.gif My fault for not being suspicious and grabbing it. Still, instant burn.
Edited by cookieboyeli - 10/3/15 at 6:08pm
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Monitors and Displays
Overclock.net › Forums › Components › Monitors and Displays › Is my QNIX dying?