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[Official] BenQ XL2730Z Owner's Club - Page 8

post #71 of 837
Quote:
Originally Posted by Falkentyne View Post

Vega,
Can you run this test with blur reduction on:

http://www.testufo.com/#test=photo&photo=alien-invasion.png&pps=960&pursuit=0&height=-1

(Try to use 120hz as I think the strobe crosstalk at 144hz covers almost half of the screen).

Then with blur reduction already on, set the AMA to 'high'. Make sure MBR is already on as you will be overwriting the AMA high default parameters. If it's already on high, move it to off/premium then back to high or just highlight the "High" setting then press button #4 instead of button #3.

Does this reduce the overdrive to a "Low" setting? On the XL2720Z, this changes the AMA high to an AMA low setting
(verified by testing on lagom.nl:

http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/response_time.php

)

(if it changes all of the inverse overshoot to normal ghosting, then it set it to low).

if it does, check black to white ghosting on a windows background, then lower the contrast to 0 in this mode.
Does this remove all of the "Normal" ghosting on the AMA Low setting?

(this setting can't seem to be activated if blur reduction is off, unfortunately).

Test had no affect. I think the 30Z controller is just too different. 120 Hz also looked identical as far as cross-talk to 144 Hz. Also confirmed 60 and 100 Hz strobing broken.
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post #72 of 837
Just ordered from amazon, should be here tomorrow! Can't wait.
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post #73 of 837
Thread Starter 
Nobody else wants to be on the owner's spreadsheet? wink.gif
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post #74 of 837
So I put the 30Z and Rog Swift next to each other. The Swift definitely has less strobe cross-talk. But of course you do lose quite a bit of brightness with the Swift vs 30Z strobing.

The panels are almost identical 8-bit, same AR film, etc. Unfortunately my idea to have a 144 Hz strobing display didn't pan out the best with the 30Z. The cross-talk just took back some of the clarity you gain with strobing, it's quite hard to keep a 144 FPS minimum and/or require V-Sync for tear free experience.

I prefer the Swift in 144 Hz G-Sync mode and the 30Z would be basically an identical display but with Freesync for AMD users.

While of course the clarity is a bit better with ULMB, the reduced brightness, less smooth/more stutter and V-Sync requirement doesn't offset the 144 Hz G-Sync's perfect smooth, virtual no input lag (max_fps 143), tear free and bright (when you need it) experience. The same goes for the 30Z in Freesync mode.
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post #75 of 837
Vega,
If you have the cash flowing around (you might, since I know you were in the (rangers?) and had some very expensive setups, you might want to try picking up an XL2720Z (the previous 1080p version) and then compare the strobing.

Maybe it might be a waste of money for you, but I think you will have a LOT of fun with it.

The crosstalk at 144hz will be the exact same as the XL2730Z, but you will be able to reduce the crosstalk by 25% by using some vertical total tweaks that the Mstar 8556T scaler uses to calculate the crosstalk size; the XL2730Z for some reason does NOT respond to vertical total changes for strobe crosstalk, even though it can accept a VT up to 1849, it is not used for crosstalk calculation (The XL2720X/mstar scaler uses the VT to create an internal resolution for processing that may be DIFFERENT from the physical resolution..from my own tests, the VT 1497-1502 range is equal to Lightboost and may be used internally by the scaler for both), and you can also use strobing at every single refresh rate, incuding custom ones like 77hz, 91hz, etc. 76hz and 60hz are the only two refresh rates that will not work with VT tweaks, although there is a VT workaround for 60hz (courtesy of masterotaku). (oddly enough 61hz works with VT 1502 while 60hz does not).

VT tweaks work at every refresh rate from 61hz to 128 hz (129hz works with some difficulty)
Only 76hz will give an out of range error.

Here are the usual settings you will use for 120hz and 100hz:
use DVI toastyX pixel clock patcher for AMD/Nvidia for DVI
Displayport will not need a patch.

1920x1080@100, 120hz
front porch 48 pixels, 3 lines
sync width 32,5
horizontal total: 2080
vertical total 1500.

(For 100hz, VT 1502 works but causes random sync issues at 120hz)
(For 85hz, you must use VT 1501, VT 1500 and VT 1502 cause almost 100% sync issues).
(for 91hz, VT 1502 is fine)
(for 125hz, both VT 1498 and VT 1502 work fine).

Note: 120hz over displayport with this vertical total will revert to 6 bit color due to bypassing the 360 hz Displayport 1.1a limits for 8 bit color (6 bit color works up to 480 hz).
You can get 8 bit color back by using a reduced timing: crosstalk will be the same as the scaler will think the "internal" resolution is 1440 vertical:

120hz with 8 bit color and VT:
1920x1080
front porch 48,3
sync width 32,5
horizontal total 2001
vertical total 1499
Pixel clock 359.94 MHz (JUST in range, whew!).

For 125hz: ENJOY 6 bit color smile.gif

For 60hz:
try : http://forums.blurbusters.com/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=560

And the AMA low trick:
1) set contrast to less than 15 (do not do this without using the AMA low trick or a very bad white ghost effect on black to white transitions occurs).
2) turn blur reduction on
3) set AMA to high, overwriting the default AMA high setting (just moving to off/premium then pressing back/high will work).

After doing this you should be greatly impressed with the strobing capabilities of the XL2720Z. And with the AMA Low mode (if you can deal with the reduced contrast), it should look much better than ULMB on the ROG Swift.

Don't forget to turn on "Single Strobe=ON" in the service menu to get strobing less than 100hz to single strobe and strobe adjustments to work (otherwise it will double strobe lower than 100hz and single strobe with a fixed unadjustable (very bad default) preset of strobe duty 010 and strobe phase 040 (I tested this to find out).

If you want your 2560x1440 resolution back, you can make the scaler supersample and downsample it:

Custom resolution:
2560x1440
Front porch 48, 3
Sync width 32, 5
Horizontal total: 2656 (the default of 2720 will black screen)
Vertical total: 1500
Horizontal kHz: 150.00 khz
Pixel clock: 398.40 mhz.

2560x1440 will work up to about 115 hz.
Any higher will cause artifacts as you are operating far beyond the physical limitations of the scaler.
(60hz will black screen, as above. 2560x1440@61 hz will work).
Edited by Falkentyne - 10/2/15 at 2:02pm
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post #76 of 837
Ya, the 20Z would probably be real good for those wanting 1080p strobing backlight for gaming. The ROG Swift does have pretty light cross-talk, it could only be improved just a bit. I find myself enjoying all the features of G-Sync though for actual use over the slight increase in motion clarity of strobing. I move my mouse/view so fast in games the extra bit of clarity doesn't help all that much. It really helps a lot on "smooth" type slow panning and scrolling stuff, not much of my gaming involves that.
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post #77 of 837
Weird problem with my XL2730z: put the same GPU into a new build and now 1440p@144Hz doesn't work. Stuck at 60Hz. Same drivers, same DP port and cable. Everything was powered off for about a week before my parts came in. Anyone have some suggestions on how to fix it before I RMA?
post #78 of 837
How are the colors I have a XL2114z and the colors are bad unless it fixed in pre set Photo Mode =)
This is the only thing holding me off from buying another Benq
post #79 of 837
Quote:
Originally Posted by milkbreak View Post

Weird problem with my XL2730z: put the same GPU into a new build and now 1440p@144Hz doesn't work. Stuck at 60Hz. Same drivers, same DP port and cable. Everything was powered off for about a week before my parts came in. Anyone have some suggestions on how to fix it before I RMA?

Ya the display has a bug that stick it to 60 Hz. I kept fiddling around with it, I did a "reset all" then as soon as it flickered to rest I pulled the power plug. Not sure if it was a culmination of things I did, but it eventually snapped out of the 60 Hz mode.
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post #80 of 837
Quote:
Originally Posted by CallsignVega View Post

Ya the display has a bug that stick it to 60 Hz. I kept fiddling around with it, I did a "reset all" then as soon as it flickered to rest I pulled the power plug. Not sure if it was a culmination of things I did, but it eventually snapped out of the 60 Hz mode.
This fixed it on the first try. Previously I tried reinstalling drivers and leaving the monitor unplugged and then plugging it back in and a bunch of variations on that sort of thing. Thanks.
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