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Triple peltier chiller - Page 13

post #121 of 748
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That's still abit high for stock speeds with a 360 rad have did you only put a tiny amount on the ihs before putting water block on? I use half a rice grain and it almost touches the edge of the cpu as my 4100 was lapped soon as I took it out the box along with the stock heat sink from my pii 955be that was the worst overclocking chip I've ever owned 3.9 1.5 volt frown.gif but with the ihs touching the die isn't that bad because the delided not relidded guys still clamp them cores hard to them sockets lol also won't touch my pc tomorrow as my grandads 65th bday haha old git who helped me with my waterblocks and helped cut the Perspex as I wanted and who is making my case wink.gif mid atx with room for 3 360 rads in the other side panel I want to build it and paint it black so my pic is in my rad box biggrin.gif but I'll keep you updated over Monday insulating bit more around cpu as running nothing just a pool of water around my socket with the clear nail polish and lots of petrol jelly in there oh and did I mention the frosting of my peltiers cold side I had ice on the end.. While watching YouTube on eBay and 2 other tabs open and cpu was only at 1.9ghz 0.9v so hardly no heat haha
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post #122 of 748
Just ran aida64 CPU, FPU, Mem and cache stability test, core temp topped out at 37*c with a 27.4*c ambient temperature with CPU at stock speed. Thats about 10*c cooler than before and also my ambient is about 5*c higher than when I tested before delid so I think I'm in the 10-15*c temp drop range after delid, lapping and applying CLU which sounds just about right. Oh and this is still testing with Artic Ceramique 2 between the IHS and waterblock so It will drop even more with CLU between IHS and water block, but I think I'll skip that test and move straight onto the TEC with CLU between IHS and cold plate and Thermal Grizzly between cold plate and TEC and waterblock. My controller still hasn't arrived so I guess it's flat 12v for now. I do have the 2 manual PWM controllers here but they look dodgy and they are also huge so I don't think I'll bother with them.

Haha nice, love a bit of ice, yeah get that insulated at well as you can, I'm using everything I can, LET, art eraser, Neoprene, dielectric grease, ambient's are about to get real high here so I need good insulation to protect against condensation. I lost a gpu to a busted O-ring on a fitting recently so I don't want to lose any more components to condensation.

I'm about to finish up my water cooling testing, will do a few OC tests first. Then its strip it down for insulation and TEC time, finally!!!!!

EDIT; just realised I ran all the furmark and aida tests with 1 of my radiator fans unplugged haha, so temps should be slightly better.
Edited by LiamG6 - 10/17/15 at 9:49pm
post #123 of 748
Thread Starter 
honestly my 360 only has 2 fans on one side and 2 pulling the same side i pretty much using it as a 240 haha i dont have meny 120 fans i am trying to but 6 at the moment " rated 60cfm at 1800rpm" led cheapo's so they will be good for about 30cfm at 12 volt under volted to 7-10 depending on noise they would work quite well in push pull i think
and i am loving this cooler playing h1z1 cpu around 80% at 4.6g 1.49volt highest ive hit today is 16*c in a 24-26*c room so yea im just abit better then watercooling when i get it controlled so it wont condensate it will work alot better with a res two as it will keep my gamed and video editing cpu cooler for longer with out big temp changes because i dont need a cpu idling at stupid temps when its mostly load temps that are more impportent to me but im trying to figure out how to insulate a 4" pipe that im going to plug the ends and tap some barbs into it and hold 2-3l of coolent take awhile to chill but.. it will take alonger time to warm it up so the first little while of the pc turning on booting to windows and not very long and the water temps would drop quite fast as it will be fully insulated to stop the warm air heating the fluid in the pipes and the heat from the vrm's nb ram heating around the socket as much and im thinking about buying 2 more waterblocks and using my 3x 154 watt peltiers aswell as a first pass then the 3 250w as the second pass before going to the res.. but im thinking would it be worth the extra power usage to help the loaded temps with all 6 tecs powered up or even under volt all the 6 tecs to 6 volt for cop but slightly warmer temps i just need to figure it all out but least with 6 tecs at 12 volt when i get my xeon upgrade i can cool that and a gpu to pretty good temps id think even adding a small rad to the cold side after it comes out the gpu if the water if above room temp id add a 120-240 rad then back into the tecs then back to res as it would still work if it stays in both blocks long enough to get the chance to pump the heat out the fluids flowing i even fort about using 12 little waterblocks 40x40 so it has more resistance against each peltiers cold side but it would be the strain on my pumps thay would do it but not with much flow left at the end my 750lph would do 3 360rads then 12 blocks but it would make the pump heat due to stress and water temps so ill have to see about my other ideas im having wink.gifbiggrin.gifthumb.gif
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post #124 of 748
16*c tops with normal gaming usage sounds awesome to me haha biggrin.gif would be interesting to see what all 6 TEC's do at 6v. Sounds like you just need to insulate really well and let all 6 TEC's run flat stick and keep it frozen though tongue.gif but yeah, in the end its only load temps that really matter which is why I ended up buying that controller. It showed up today too, I'll upload a pic later, it's tiny biggrin.gif

my fans are only 1200rpm and my rads are less than stellar so I was surprised by the results with just 2 fans running, the delid/CLU and lapping did an awesome job at dropping my temps

bad news though, bit of a setback anyway. I used my PC all day with stock settings, stress tested for a few hours to monitor temps, all good very cool temps. then last night I tested OC settings, I just put a quick 4.7ghz 1.375v OC on, not optimized at all, I had 1.375vcore, 1.975vrin, and 1.35vring, vring was about as high as it should go and vcore was up there too, but my temps were so good I thought it was ok. Anyways, I stress tested with aida64, about 20 minutes in I got a BSOD, i thought thats ok just need to change some settings, but after it restarted it just got stuck in a reboot loop. PC would turn on, spin up fans and pumps, keyboard n mouse would turn on, screen would display a flashing white dash and a mouse cursor then it would reboot and just loop that constantly until I turned it off. I cleared CMOS, no change, swapped out PSU, no change, disconnected GPU n switched to iGPU, nothing, tested my ram in another PC, they are fine, tested my GPU in another PC, its fine. Pulled my CPU and put another known good CPU in, same result, except I managed to see the post screen once but wasn't able to get into bios, then it restarted and got stuck in same loop. no idea whats happened but I think the VRMs on my motherboard have gone and it's killed my good G3258 and my old G3258 as well. I tested my old unlapped/non dellided CPU in another PC and it won't post. So I think I have 2 dead G3258's and a dead motherboard. It was a gigabyte Z97m D3H so very low end Z97 with only 4 phases so I'm wondering if the VRMs have blown and fried my CPU, then fried my second CPU when I tested it too even though it should have been at stock settings. I haven't been able to get anything out of it, fully disassembled it, checked for bent pins in socket or anything that could be shorting it, nothing, took IHS off CPU n made sure FIVR caps were still covered by LET, they were fine, no scratches or chips on CPU. I've ordered another motherboard, an Asrock Z87m Extreme4 with updated bios for haswell refresh off ebay, I'll test both my CPU's in that again and then buy another G3258 if I have too. I've requested an RMA for the mobo from gigabyte and I'll replace the undellided G3258 under warranty so it won't end up costing too much hopefully. But its annoying as I was very happy with the temps after delid and lap and was just about to insulate the mobo for some TEC action, lucky it gave up before I pasted LET all over the mobo. This asrock should be a better OCer anyway, hopefully my G3258's are still ok though, one of them was quite a good clocker. Motherboard will be here in a few days so I'll get back into it then. Oh and I checked the die on the deliided one, no cracks or chips in it. Hopefully they are fine, the other PC i tested in may not have had the latest bios in it to accept haswell refresh CPU's, fingers crossed anyway

Pics of my 3 controllers, red one is good for 60amps but manual PWM duty cycle adjustment only, larger green one is good for 30amps, manual adjustment again, the reall gem is the tiny little one at the bottom, good for 20 amps, automatic PWM PID set point temperature control, and the heatsink I bought for the mosfet is bigger than the whole PCB lol, gonna be easy to hide in my case with short cables to the TEC



Edited by LiamG6 - 10/19/15 at 3:01am
post #125 of 748
Thread Starter 
Ah that sucks least the g3258 and boards are cheap enough I just picked up a 1156 Msi board for £36 the cpu I want will cost more wink.gif quad Xeon 2.66ghz HT they overclock quite well same as a bined i7 just lower voltage so shoul overclock quite well with my cooling wink.gif and a little volt bump to 1.45 up its backside haha 4ghz? Hopefully biggrin.gif
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post #126 of 748
mounted the heatsink on the controller mosfet with thermal pad and rubber washer, has to be isolated as it's not grounded, got the thermistor in the cold plate, wired tec in (haven't changed to thicker guage wires yet), and external LCD temp sensor display to help set PID control at desired temp, will be placed under the cold plate off to the side of the IHS. Mobo should be here on wednesday to test it all. After I get motherboard RMA and replace the G3258 under warranty I shouldn't be out too much coin.

Edited by LiamG6 - 10/19/15 at 7:02am
post #127 of 748
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Looking good now and what do you mean change the wire on the peltier? Or controller as its normal if the wires get warm but if you extend the wires solder on a slight thicker wire onto it as I did works fine like it and...
The i3 isn't staying it's just for bios update and to learn the board befor sticking in a £50 Xeon but yea it will be good moving back to Intel for some fun again wink.gif but my beloved fx4100 isn't going it's a keeper as I don't think meny of these chips scale Aswell as this from 1.387stock it dose a 1ghz clock everyone else has a small jump to 4 ghz at stock.. But I'm hoping to get a fsb of 210 out of my new Msi p55 pd65 with my g.skill 4gb kit at least as I want to get mother 4gb kit as mixed with hyper x 1600 is odd but still clocks to 1821mhz really well at 1.5 volts (hyper x is 1.7-1.9v they say for 1600mhz..) so yea I got lucky picked hyper x to go with the cpu's biggrin.gif
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post #128 of 748
The wires on my pelt are 20awg. Admittedly it's a short run and now the controller is here they won't get full 11 or 12amps all the time. But was hoping to nip them off about an inch from Tec and solder in 2 or 4 18awg wires. I'll test it like this first.

What heat load do those old 1156's put out? I was looking at getting an 1155 board and a 2500k or 2600k instead of another 1150 setup but realised sandybridge heat load is pretty high. Ivy bride is probably the best for TEC. At least you can OC the xeons on 1156 smile.gif

My friend has an old 1156 setup with an i5 750. Might have to convince him to let me freeze it ;-)
Edited by LiamG6 - 10/19/15 at 4:05pm
post #129 of 748
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Well the Xeon I was is a bined i7 860 or close to it the i7 is around 130 stock speeds over locked 230-250w the Xeon I want is 80watts around 180 over clocked so a lot less then my amd and yea I went with the 1156 for the over clocking side of it if I want a cup I just move a multiplier I'd get a 1151 1150 1155 but the 1156 is still fsb and more to adjust ram timing all the bridge speeds a lot of voltages so just more fun plus 4 cores with HT will help me a lot in video editing and still have the quad core power for gaming it's alittle faster then a 2600k I think unless it was a 2500k wich ever one is 4 core with HT but with this Xeon I was wondering if ecc memory would work now.. The cpu is ecc comparable but I don't know if my motherboard will just let me use it
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post #130 of 748
ahh thats pretty reasonable heat load for that kind of processing power, I still love overclocking my old Q9550 and Q6600, they a bit long in the tooth now though so anything from 1156, 1155 or 1150 is good enough, and yeah It's nice to be able to OC the Xeons on 1156, I'd buy a 1150 Xeon E3-1281V3 right now if I new I could get more than 200mhz OC out of it through baseclock. not sure re ECC ram, same pinout and socket?.

So I was digging through my parts bin and I found my old heat sinks from my HD6850's, it's a twin heat pipe cooler with a lapped base and aluminium fins, it will easily fit a 30 or 40mm TEC. I think it will be much better than the Intel stock heat sinks for my little hot side chiller because I don't need the 30mm copper adapter plate and also I can throw a 120 or 140mm fan on each one of them, so it will be quieter and cooler than the stock heat sinks. The best part about it is that the heat sink and the GPU water block both have the same mounting bolt pattern so I can literally just bolt it together with some M2 screws, I was going to have to mod up something dodgy with the intel heatsinks but this just seems better all around.

I'm thinking of putting a couple of 12715's in it undervolted to 6v, this is a very efficient range and keeps the heat load as low as possible from the TEC while maximizing the Qc. Before I was looking at 39w power consumption and 21w QC at 20*c delta per 12704 TEC at 12v which is a cop of about 0.53. With the 12715's I'd be looking at using less power by undervolting to 6v, so less heat load at 33w and more Qc at 45w at 20*c delta per 12715 TEC. So 33w power consumption and a Qc of 45w at 20*c delta per 12715 TEC for a COP of 1.36, that sounds like it will get me somewhere with 90w Qc at 20*c Delta biggrin.gif Here's a pic of the heat sink and the whole setup with fan and GPU block.


and a comparison between the stock intel heat sink and the HD6850 twin heat pipe cooler


Edited by LiamG6 - 10/20/15 at 8:20pm
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