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post #171 of 748
man that is a really nice overclock on that thing. 4.5ghz at 1.32v is awesome, nicely done. that is a beasty for sure now. weird about the ram though, hopefully you can get it running in dual channel. what was the recommended voltage for DDR3 back then? was it 1.5v? or was it like 1.7-1.8v on those older DDR3 kits? maybe the newer lower voltage kits you have just don't like that platform? I've been on DDR2 1066 at 2.1v until I got this pentium so I'm out of the loop with the DDR3 stuff from the early days. Maybe it was always 1.5v. That is a sweet overclock on water though and yeah man get some CLU on there asap. I know it's all money but that alone will be a nice drop in temps, be even better once all your TEC chiller stuff arrives.

I got a quote from thermonamic for that 185w TEC with all the goodies, USD$160+shipping hhahahahahaha redface.gif for the 185w one without all the goodies was USD$40+shipping. In the end I bought this http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Thermoelectric-Modules-High-Power-Peltier-Coolers-TB-111-2-0-0-8HT-Kryotherm-/151363889929?hash=item233dfdab09:g:MZwAAOSwRLZT0Y3~ all in the name of science, haha, 240w power consumption at 12v, gonna find out how serious that controller I bought was about it's 20a max current pretty soon haha, I can see a fire coming already tongue.gif good news though, the TEC is 35x40mm so it's better for my water block but sheesh, 240w + my CPU heat load all going through my poor Apogee XT block. I better get some EK Furious Vardar 3000rpm fans for that new radiator instead of the 2200rpm ones haha. but with my controller and that TEC I should have enough Qc to hold my cold plate at about 0*c provided my water block can handle that wattage and my hot side cooling will be beefed up nicely by then so it should be fine too. I gotta stop spending money on this little pentium rig and find a nice 46x0k to put in it though.
post #172 of 748
the guy I bought my tec controller off said the mosfet and the PCB traces can handle the 20a but i will have to desolder the terminals for the voltage in and out and then solder the wires to the pcb traces. this is good actually as the connectors are annoying little things and I'm worried about the wires slipping out of them. So when the TEC arrives I'll solder on some thicker guage wires to the PCB from my 12v 8 pin EPS connector that I have plugged into the PSU, then I'll cut a 4 pin ATX CPU extension in half and solder the female half to the TEC and the male half to the PCB so I can still disconnect it all and the wires are nice and beefy to handle the current. I think this TEC might handle a 4670k OC'd to 4.8+, may not be a great delta but would be better than just water.
post #173 of 748
Thread Starter 



Ever seen a water chiller chilling a waterchiller before? Well now you have testing my insulation properly be fireing it up soon letting my waterchiller chill the 2l of antifreeze before turning Tec chiller on then the PC.. tongue.gif

Didn't work very well my compressor got very hot haha I didn't want to try load the PC Aswell also just ordered some clu for the cpu hope I drop temps abit more has like 2000% better conductivatiy then the cheap crap I'm using biggrin.gif
Edited by lzf995 - 10/26/15 at 8:38am
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post #174 of 748
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never mind haha still cant fit 4 tecs on a 115x socket 72mm between holes even angled off slightly it wouldnt fit frown.gif maybe have to just use 2 400w on there asmuch as i dont want to use 400 ebay tecs rather use 545w but to expensive the way i want to build it will only cost like £20 $40 just the tecs are expensiv.
2x250w@ 12v will give 12* 0.61cop
2x400w@ 12v will give me -11.6*c 0.40 cop
2x400w@ 6v will give me 9*c 1.40 cop 16*c delta

so clearly i want 2x400 at 6 volts 23amp 140watts used (From pc power suply)

but.. trying to figure out how to mount a 100x50 waterblock on a 1156 is gonna be hard

first id need a 100x50x15 mm aluminium bar then 50x50x5 solder the small bit to the bottom to make the riser to clear the caps then a waterblock thats 50x100 or a 40x80 with a aluminium plate ontop then a way to hold it all together thats the hard part about the block i could use a 60x120 bar top and bottom bolt it togeather ( and lose cooling power) then add the waterblock ontop of that or even.. solder the waterblock to one plate then solder a 50x50 plate to the other then all i have to do it build a mount and insulate it also where the 50x50x5-10mm spacer is gives enough room to insulate the bottom of the block well enough that the only cold part showing would be touching the cpu so wont need lots and lots of ugly foam around it just some ideas ive had thinking of ways to cool this stupid cpu or maybe even try it on my fx and freeze the cores and see how far it would go if i get bigger psu and more rads to cool a 700w heatload then freeze 200w cpu to -10 rolleyes.gif
Edited by lzf995 - 10/26/15 at 12:12pm
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post #175 of 748
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my water-chiller i did a 10 minute stress test then a 10 minute cool down room temp is 28.5*c 1 240 mm rad push pull 1800 rpm fans




cant wait for my liquid ultra to turn up hope it makes a difference i need like a 15*c drop for it even worth using peltiers or ill just stick to normal cooling with no overclock and build a silent pc insted
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post #176 of 748
Man talk about unleashing the kraken, you're throwing everything at that Xeon n it's just gobbling it up. The lapping you already did plus CLU should get you 10-20*c drop in temps. Hopefully 20*c because yeah otherwise seems pointless. I'm bouncing up against the pointless factor with my current TEC haha.

Oh and re the water block. The only way to use 4 x 40mm tecs direct die is to mount the block to the board from behind. Ie put the screws through the back of the mobo and tighten the block to IHS that way. If you use 4x40mm 190w 24v umax tecs at 12v you get a Qc of 200w at 30*c delta and I think it's pretty efficient too. I believe that is what mind chill used to build his QDD block. But you need custom 80x80 water block. Custom cold plate the bolts back to acrylic top to stop heat transfer between hot and cold sides. And then a step down to like 50x50 to get to the IHS and you need to have 72x72 bolt mount pattern on bottom of cold plate to mount to the board. Cold plate needs to be about 10mm thick. Basically unless you have your own cnc mill like mind chill, foxrena or ultrasonic then it's waaaaaaay to expensive. But it is the best way to do a direct die block.
Edited by LiamG6 - 10/26/15 at 6:20pm
post #177 of 748
Thread Starter 
i have throws everything i got at it and i feel stupid because how bad it is but i cant moan being jut behind a 4770k in cpu-id bench test, cb 15 10 points behind a 3770k and destroyed an amd 8 core at 4.4ghz turbo boosting i have got to the point of when i get more money im buying 1 more 250 and 4 80x40 blocks and having more flow restriction in there see if that helps me and my 120x40 will have 3x 154w that i have laying around getting all chipped if i run the 4 250's at 6 volt each then the 3 154's at 12v i should get a good temp to cop% then after ill get 4 more 80x40 and 1 more 154 then ill be onto an 8 tec chiller but will cost another £50 $100 then i will crack onto building the 400w dual tec monster and run much rads i can and buy a controller from the pc to controll core temp try keep then under 40*c if it dosnt use much power ill keep gong till i hit around 600w point so i keep good water temps even under load

if i get enough rad space i could chill a direct die all controlled to keep a good temp and hardly use antypower wouldn't go above around 400-450w to keep a load rather cold biggrin.gif 2 months till Christmas.. wheee.gif hmm maybe a 8 tec cooled dual tec direct die wheee.gif crazy thing that would freeze most cpu's

why dose money be such a pain to us hobbyists buttkick.gif
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post #178 of 748
no matter what you actually get out of it, you're having fun right, so its worth it anyway, but yeah it hurts the wallet a bit redface.gif and being close to 3770k in performance is no laughing matter, even if you have made something hotter than the centre of earth hahaha. Call your PC vesuvius or something lol, I was going to call my PC something cold, but maybe something hot is more appropriate lol as we pump out so much heat from these things.

You are going to have one ridiculously powerful set up once you crank up all these TEC chillers and will be able to seriously chill some stuff when you move to a lower heat load CPU, with that massive TEC chiller and the dual TEC direct die block you will be below 0*c on most CPU's, even that toasty Xeon might get closer to ambient haha. At least the aluminium chiller blocks and TEC's themselves aren't that expensive on ebay. But that direct die setup could get costly, depends how "creative" you get tongue.gif

I've figured out what I'm gonna do to my CPU waterblock to make it better for cooling my TEC.

This is what my top is like now with the inlet panel in stock position

and with the inlet panel switched to the alternate position

and what the top looks like under the inlet panel

and what the underside of the top looks like


I will drill a ~7mm hole right under the inlet of the alternate inlet position and countersink it the same as the one in the middle of the block, I'll leave the hole under the standard inlet position as well so they are both the same. Then on the underside of the top I'll remove that o-ring in the middle so the base doesn't have any bow, and then I'll fill that channel that has been cut into the top around the outside of the block with epoxy except for where the inlet and outlet position is, I'll lap the epoxy down level with the underside of the top. I'll leave the hole in the centre open. That way I have an inlet right in the top left corner, and a outlet in the bottom right corner, but the top left inlet will be slightly restricted by the ~7mm hole so water will also flow right into the centre of the block through the stock inlet position hole. That way I should have a nice low restriction block with full coolant coverage of the TEC and no low restriction ways for the water to flow through the top without being forced through the copper pin matrix

What do you think? also will epoxy contaminate my coolant? I don't imagine it will but ya never know.
Edited by LiamG6 - 10/27/15 at 1:47am
post #179 of 748
Thread Starter 
Before you do it how much are the tops? Buy a spare one because you could make the block not cool if it dosnt go well with my block I use epoxy to seal the threads on the fittings and I haven't had to much problems it dose get dyed blue but I'm using a car ain't freeze that dosnt freeze or boil easy boiling point it 130*c 😯 I did try it with a heatgun it dosnt evaporate either I don't know what it is as my uncle got it for me from where he works it is kinda thick but no problem for my pumps mount of flow I get I sometimes think it's to much but yea try mod your block because it you could get it to cool the outsides better it might help. Also yea if I build my direct die it will be intresting lot of planing and careful building but I do want to build a block that I can put onto an amd or Intel so I'm thinking a changeable top would help
But it's doing the cold plate I'm not sure how thick to make it I'm thinking 15mm would spread the heat better across the 2x50 tecs but then how bad will the thermal wall be how much will it heat up before the tecs suck it threw and dump it I don't want to use a thin cold plate as I don't think the heat will transfer from the ends very well I'm thinking 10mm cold plate then a 3mm 50x50 spacer to lift it above caps around it

Also your waterblock the pins in the copper the Gap around the edge is there anyway to fill that? A big oring or something then do the intake one corner then outtake other corner then water would flow threw the whole thing better then or build a new top and that gap use a thick oring then use that part as the seal then squash it tightly down so there isn't much room from top of the block to them fins then the water will force it's way threw the fins and not flow over them I can see the easiest top to make for that all you would need is basic tools and a thick bit of Perspex like 15mm like my stuff an oring a drill or dill press a few drill bits and a saw to cut the Perspex then just do an inlet 1corner outlet oposit side screw it together using counter suck machine screws and done lol
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post #180 of 748
Good point, I'll contact swiftech, I may be able to get my hands on a revision 2 top for if and when I do straight water cooling again so that would be handy to have. The block has been EOL for a while though so I dunno if that will be possible. Maybe they will have some parts laying around as NOS. I had a bit of an added thought re the modification too. I won;t fill all 4 sides of that channel in the top with epoxy, I will just fill the top and bottom sides, that way the water will flow from top left inlet, it will fill the entire left side channel, then it will be forced through the copper pins, then it will collect in the entire right side channel and flow out the outlet. that way it will be less likely to flow diagonally from top left to bottom right without touching the bottom left and top right, so I should get nice even coverage, I may actually have to drill a 12mm hole under the alternate inlet position though and fill that one in the centre of the block with a grub screw or something. so that it all flows into the channel on the left, then across the block, then into the channel on the right, then out the outlet. If I leave the center hole open it may not fill the left channel entirely and might leave the left side of the block starved for coolant. I'll try to get my hands on another top before I do anything too major to it. Swiftech has been pretty good with all my requests from them in the past, sent me free back plates and stuff when I needed.

Do you use any CAD or 3D software? I could actually model up a Dual or Quad direct die block and run some thermal simulations on them. I believe foxrena built a dual 50mm TEC direct die block and he had a coldplate about 10-12mm thick, he did say there were issues with the heat transferring through that huge chunk of copper and it was like he just had heat transferring through the middle 50mm of the block and not really going through the 25mm on each outside eadge. He ran some simulations. I'll try to dig up the thread. In the end I think he made some 62mm blocks for better Heat transfer but really you can't quite get the Qc and efficiency out of a single 62mm TEC that you could get out of 2 50mm TEC's or 4 x 40mm TEC's. I actually think 4 40mm TEC's gives you the best balance of Qc, power efficiency and also heat transfer within a decent radius of the IHS, but you have to come up with a complicated block to solve all the mounting issues to the motherboard. I'll start modelling a couple of ideas up as I'm interested myself and it may come in handy for you. But it might be too complex for either of us to make with what we have at hand and probably far too expensive to have it custom made. I may be able to find some people to do it cheaply locally to me as part of some other client jobs.

There is about a 1 or 2mm gap around the edge of the copper base where there are no pins and before it gets to the edge of the outer channel in the top, I can't do much about the left and right sides if I don't put epoxy in the channel there but it will be filled at the top and bottom so it can't bypass the copper pins that way. The pin area covers 43x43mm and my New TEC is 40x35mm. The dimension from left to right is the 35mm dimension on the TEC so leaving the left and right channel clear of epoxy allows the water to collect there before being forced through the pins but thats ok as thats not above the TEC, all the pins that are above the TEC have no clearance between the underside of the top of my block and the copper pins in the base, that oval shaped o-ring that is under the centre inlet is there to put a bit of a bow in the copper base to get better contact with concave IHS, so I need to remove that, actually it is so squished from being mounted to my Q9550 for about 6 years that it is super thin anyway, but also if I fill the channel that is cut into the underside of the top at the top and bottom, not the left and right sides with epoxy and sand it flat with the base of the block then there is no clearance between the underside of the top and the copper pins, so all the coolant has to flow through the pins as it won't be able to flow around that channel around the outside any more. I'll model something up to make it easier to explain haha, I'm better at visualizing than explaining my ideas haha.
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