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Triple peltier chiller - Page 20

post #191 of 748
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I know my x3440 is just over 215w under burn test I just want to try keep my chip around 30's under load so I can push more volts as it is stupid with a 20*c water temp it's at 60 under load with my chiller why I want to build a 2x400w direct die and add another 5 tecs to the chiller but it's just a lot of money to get -15 with a 200 w load cold plate also isn't a 3770-4790 better delided anyway? Bit of clu and a dierect die would be best for that imo biggrin.gif
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post #192 of 748
Yeah I was pretty pleased with my sub 25*c deltas on the G3258 lol. But once you go 4 cores these things are hot so I'd be happy with 45*c IHS/cold plate temp to core temp delta. Really I only aim to drop my temps about ~20*c with TEC cooling so that I can push an extra 100-200mhz over water alone, any further drop below that is just a bonus. With a TEC chiller I try to get that to 30-40*c temp drop to be worth the cost of the setup. Beyond that, phase change chill box territory.

I contacted swiftech directly and they can sell me a revision 2 XT top for USD$21+shipping, a new Apogee XL block was USD$64+shipping and since I can order direct from them I can buy that instead of modifying my XT block and wasting money on the revision 2 top that I may not use. I'll sell my XT to my brother with my spare 240 rad so he can start a water cooling loop on his 5820k, I bought 3 EK 3000rpm Furious Vardars for my Hardware Labs Alpha Extreme III rad and a Gentle Typhoon AP29 3000rpm for my EK Coolstream XT 120 rad (I just wanted to compare the vardars to the typhoons really) but basically it means I don't need that 240 rad in my loop any more as it was just getting too crowded in my case, plus my ambient noise in my apartment in the city is so loud I can't even hear the fans lol, so I'll let them crank right up for the lowest possible deltas, I'll still be adding the 2 12715 tecs in at 5v on my GPU blocks in the hot loop to chill those last few degrees to ambient (if it works). As my new TEC is 40x35mm I think the PIN matrix on the XL is just about the right size for total coverage of the TEC and the ports are in the correct locations for even cooling of the whole TEC and the restriction should be less as well.

Here is a pic of the XL baseplate again. I'll remove the centre o-ring, no mods required other than that. I'll take the mount bolts out and use my setup with the M3 bolts threaded through from the back plate and tightened down with nuts.
CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v62), quality = 100
post #193 of 748
I think these TEC's are pretty hard to kill unless you crack them or leave them on without cooling so they heat up beyond 125*c. Would have been a bit of a shock though to get that hose blowing off right at you lol. better get some relays wired in to start/stop your PSU's together or at least a big warning light/led that lights up when TEC is powered up so you know what's going on.
Edited by LiamG6 - 10/28/15 at 10:07pm
post #194 of 748
Thread Starter 
I kinda missed a huge warning light the big blue led fan in the power supply in a dark room haha was really tired also

Room temp is 25*c
Before temps 1 run ibt
86 92 82 92.
After temps - run ibt
76 79 73 84
Also redid my Gtx 295 with clu ad temps droped 11*c on each gpu
Not a big drop in temps for how much it costs that's against a very cheap thermal paste from China 1.99 30g tube
Edited by lzf995 - 10/29/15 at 7:06am
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post #195 of 748
haha live and learn, i;m sure its not the kind of thing you'll let happen again. I would be hopeless at trying to remember that so its good I have my TEC wired into my main PSU. I;m trying to develop a habbit of switching my PSU off and also my Powerboard off so I'm in the habbit when I get a second PSU. I may not need one though, and I can buy a pre made PSU relay anyway.

Get that CLU on there, it is really nice stuff to work with, although I've heard cleaning it off is a pain, but the temp drop is worth it.
post #196 of 748
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sorry i have been busy modifying my ps3's tongue.gif trying to figure out how to make the waterblocks for a phat ps3 with few upgrades and to mod the psu to run cooler as it gets hot playing games
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post #197 of 748
All good. I'm trying to diagnose what's wrong with my old gigabyte z97. Keyboard lights up, posts and displays splash screen, beeps once, switches to black screen with white cursor and underline, sits there for a second then reboots. Never got any other beeps out of it, only 1 beep to say system healthy. Tried different sticks of ram in different slots 1 at a time. Same thing. I either can't get into bios when it posts or the keyboard is not recognised when I press "del". It just gets stuck in that loop. Cleared bios with jumper, battery short method etc, no dice. Just stays in that loop. I have a feeling the dual bios is corrupted. Problem is the bios chips are soldered on, so I'll have to buy a better soldering iron if I wanna fix it with new bios chip off ebay. Might not be worth the effort.

Still on the hunt for a quad core, got a handle on a ES 4670k which would be perfect if I can buy it.
post #198 of 748
Thread Starter 
Is it a usb keyboard? Tried a ps2 keyboard? Also the soldered bios chips take the battery out n just use mole grips n crack the chip easier to remove legs then or cut the legs off then suck the solder out the holes then the new chip falls in seal a bit of solder n hope for the best biggrin.gif also I fort Es don't overclock Aswell? As the best over clockers are just the middle made of a wafer ?? Or am I confused with something else here
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post #199 of 748
I already tried it without a keyboard plugged in as I heard USB stuff can cause issues but it made no difference, I don't have Ps2 keyboard to test with but I'm pretty sure its not that as it happens with no keyboard plugged in. I've got CPU in, 8 pin and 24 pin power hooked up, analog display out from iGPU and 1 stick of ram in, thats all, just stuck in this post loop with 1 beep then restart. Maybe if I had a Ps2 keyboard I could actually get into bios though, I'll try to dig one up.

This 4670k ES does 4.8ghz at 1.276v and has already been delided, temps in mid 50's under air cooling I think. Not sure if I'll be able to buy it though. Another guy has a golden 4790k but I think it will be too expensive for me. If I can't find something for the right price I'll just wait till more used ones show up on ebay. I still gotta wait for my next lot of TEC's to come in and get this chiller built and try the 190w TEC and switch CPU blocks and put new rad in and rebuild the whole loop. Gonna be busy once all the parts arrive. Would be nice to have a quad core to throw in at that time though. I've just been watching H1Z1 battle royale vids, looks sick, will have to play that.

I believe the best retail clockers are the middle of the wafer, but I still think it's an element of luck even then, and the ES's seems to depend what generation, some ES's have major flaws others seem really good. Haswell ES samples seem to clock really well on the review sites but they would have sent out the cherry picked ES to them, hopefully this 4670k was one of them, would be a nice low volt chip to run under that 190w TEC
post #200 of 748
Thread Starter 
h1z1 is very cpu demanding though wink.gif it loads up my 8 threds well my fx use to bottle neck a crappy gtx 295 and every one knows how bad these cards are i just happened to get it cheaply and needed it because my hd 4870 2gb stopped working also if it was a cherry picked es it would cost alot as there hard to get and every overclocker wants them also 4.8 on 1.27 id push 1.35v n try 5.5ghz but that's jut me biggrin.gif but yea it will do you good getting a quad core as it makes a lot of difference in games i think with the newer games liking more cores you're pentium will get pushed out soon but then who knows how long quad cores are safe for? 2-3 years? also yea im sure that 190w would do quite well with one of them cpu's stuck under it biggrin.gif
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