Overclock.net › Forums › Cooling › Specialized Cooling › Peltiers / TEC › Triple peltier chiller
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Triple peltier chiller - Page 26

post #251 of 748
Thanks, but I am not a pro at phase change. Have never built or used one biggrin.gif
post #252 of 748
Have you built a TEC setup? even if you just study the data sheets enough you will know what it possible. You are bagging on things that have proven to work effectively, it's just a matter of what you consider "effective", for me, TEC is exactly what I want and need and I can do it all with very basic equipment, TEC is merely an extension of water cooling in an effort to make more use of the equipment we have already purchased, being able to break into sub ambient temperatures and in some cases sub zero is fantastic considering I bought a $7 TEC and spent a few dollars on insulation material, to drop my core temps by more than 30*c is very satisfactory and allows me to have a slightly higher voltage threshold before running into heat issues, actually I have no heat issues whatsoever with my TEC setup and as I;m using PID PWM control my power consumption is generally about 40w for my TEC to maintain a 14*c cold plate temp through 90% of my computer usage, it only needs 132w when I'm gaming extensively or stress testing. You should try a project with TEC, it will convince you, but do me a favour, run it at less that 70% umax
post #253 of 748
Thread Starter 
Liam has your new peltier arrived yet? I'm really waiting so see how well this works biggrin.gif also I don't think no one wants my Gtx 295 at £45 even though people sell them for this price all the time but I have found 1 6870 2gb for sell that would ship to me in the uk 1 6870 = 80+% of a Gtx 295 in same games uses half the power and easy to water cool and volt mod £50 posted

Also after about 3 hours of project cars last nigh my cpu hit 47°c and it was hot in my room I looked at the thermometer beside my bed my room was 33°c! This PC is a huge space heater think I'm gonna have to rebuild my room with the PC next to the window and build a cold air intake or a hot air out to keep my room cooler wouldn't be leave it's almost winter temps are 6-7 at night a Around 12 at day time
Edited by lzf995 - 11/7/15 at 8:14am
under £350
(7 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5 2500 msi z77a-gd55 herculez gtx 770 gskill & kingston 
CoolingOSPower
custom water win 10 pro  corsair gs800 
  hide details  
Reply
under £350
(7 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5 2500 msi z77a-gd55 herculez gtx 770 gskill & kingston 
CoolingOSPower
custom water win 10 pro  corsair gs800 
  hide details  
Reply
post #254 of 748
Yes I have built one , refer to few last post
http://www.overclock.net/t/1522183/soundless-devil-built-to-oc/210

You guys love direct die contact right?
http://www.thermonamic.com/TEC1-19940-English.PDF
This is the one for you thumb.gif
Edited by Iwamotto Tetsuz - 11/7/15 at 11:49am
post #255 of 748
Thread Starter 
liam i am thinking of my 6 tec chiller ideas again devil.gif just a really crappy paint drawing as i was drawing it and i spilled my cola on the paper and ruined 6 sheets of ideas but i saved them in my memory wink.gif heres the most basic but effective one


the cold side is a multi pass idea with a thin but deep channel so the water it pressed threw as it is going to tumble and back flow a little bit lot of water touching sides but wouldnt be to restrictive and would end with cooler temps under load but could risk freezing the block solid if antifreeze isnt set right

the hot side is just a bigger version of my chiller's blocks now with deep fins but has 5mm space between them im thinking 3 mm gap between the fins to make up more fpi but has alot of area in contact with water to drag the heat threw

the 2 plates would be 80x120 enough for 6 tecs the first 3 tecs would be 12710 for the idle loads with the controller at the out put of the block in a T junction the 3 250w would be set onto the controller so the 154's would be 24'7 keeping temps low enough at idle but save some power then when the temps rise then the 3 250 would kick in turning the psu on and then offering 600w of cooling power keeping my little 200w load very cold at a 1/3 meaning when i get my 6870... it could be frozen aswell for 'dem clock' haha but yea i would be about 3-8*c water temps under load with a 350 watt load at 10v

but i will end up running the 250's at less voltage around 8 hopfully and get the c.o.p nice and good less power more cooling and still a 20+ delta
under £350
(7 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5 2500 msi z77a-gd55 herculez gtx 770 gskill & kingston 
CoolingOSPower
custom water win 10 pro  corsair gs800 
  hide details  
Reply
under £350
(7 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5 2500 msi z77a-gd55 herculez gtx 770 gskill & kingston 
CoolingOSPower
custom water win 10 pro  corsair gs800 
  hide details  
Reply
post #256 of 748
I don't mean to be rude Iwamoto, but you sir are the ghetto mod king, that is a wild looking beast, and I like it, haha. You are a little quirky, I get that now, I also think you are young, but you aren't really giving the components you have the best chance of performing well, but your thread is entertaining to read. I also looked at your absolutely ludicrous implementation of TEC's into your loop, did you seriously hook some 12706's between a couple of aluminium plates and put a single waterblock on the cold side and no heatsink on the hotside, I can't quite make sense of what you did because you don;t explain it anywhere and I can't understand most of what you say anywhere. I just look at the photos ans cringe, the one with the AIO waterblock clamped to the TECs and bulldog clips mounting it all together. I see a couple of waterblocks that appear to be on the TECs later, did you seperatre the hot and cold side water cooling loops on them? regardless you are using some 12706 TEC's which don;t have anywhere near the wattage to make much of a difference at all except in idle. EDIT: I think I can see 2 water blocks on the cold side in one photo, can;t see what is cooling the hotside, then I see you have another aluminium waterblock with some tecs but can't see what is cold side and what is cooling hotside, maybe nothing from all I can tell. Either way you have zero authority to say anything about TEC cooling until you come up with something that makes more sense than whatever it is you have going on, it's clear that your inadequate implementation is what has turned you against TEC's when you are just butchering thee whole idea

I've already seen that monster TEC, the heatload from it alone is monstrous, there is another guy trying one out right now with a really nice custom made 62mm waterblock that should actually do quite well, but that power consumption scares me haha, but he should be able to get some pretty low cold plate temps, if he can get a handle on the hotside heatload anyway.

lzf, yeah I think the wavy channels are good for the hotside, you want as much coolant in contact with the copper as possible and some nice turbulence to break up the laminar flow through the block which means more coolant comes into contact with the copper surface and it isn't too restrictive, just have to make sure all parts of the block are getting equal flow, might need to make it dual pass which maybe you said already, so that it only flows through half the channels one way then through the other half the other way, but means the second pass might be a degree or two hotter but it is acceptable. EDIT: is that one long channel snaking through the hotside, at 12x3mm thats probably correct, but say 3 smaller channels would be better, like flow going through 3 x 3mm wide by 4mm deep channels, more surface area than 1 12x3mm channel but same flow characteristic. lot of drilling though biggrin.gif

For the cold side you just want the fluid in the block for as long as possible with the least amount of restriction possible, so a straight channel but maybe three passes in an s shape, I don't think you need to be worried about it freezing, its actually pretty hard to freeze it if its flowing I think. But you are on the right track, I established that different block designs were required for hot and cold sides a while back but most people don't bother. Main principle for hot side is turbulence and surface area, for cold side low restriction and long coolant path through the block to give the water a chance to chill, even splitting the flow up three ways so it is really slow flow might help.
Edited by LiamG6 - 11/7/15 at 9:51pm
post #257 of 748
Liam thanks , really appreciated that you like my build. But make sure we don't get off topic, as this is for the tripple peltier build thread.
If you want more conversations go and post on my soundless devil page of message me privatly on oc net. thanks.

Just if your wondering, the old build was limited to hybrid cooling since the parts that are not directly ontop of water block gets boiling hot.

Current build has 4 cpu blocks on it holding it together, so both hot and cold side have the heat or cold transfered to the water proeprly.
Just to let you know, I had just taken out my full pure copper radator and temps are just stunning, under room temps at least 7C under full load. and less than room temps 12C or more when idle. Currently 6.3C when I opended the door 19C room temp thumb.gif


I don't see the point of getting better waterblocks for peliters. But I do see a point in adding more Peltiers and running them on full power if cooling is good. If a bit too much then running it on half voltage or 1/4 voltage will give you ALLOT of performance gains. (More peltiers =more performance)
I think your cpu loop having cooled by peltier is just a resvior and pump right? as adding a radatior in will totaly destroy the performance. radator radating cold , not heat lol biggrin.gif
post #258 of 748
Ok, if you have sorted your cooling on the hot side and actually got blocks on all parts of the hot and cold side and have separate loops you are on the right track. Are you still using 12706's though? try some under volted 12715's if you want lower temps and power consumption.

I'm currently running a single cheap generic ebay 12715 TEC direct die at 12v with a PWM controller to hold cold plate temps at 14*c on a dual core pentium G3258 at 4.9ghz with the hot side cooled by my Swiftech apogee XT CPU water block and 360mm of radiator and 1200rpm fans with a 3mm thick copper cold plate between the TEC and the IHS of the CPU. I've just purchased a 4670k and a larger high quality kryotherm TEC that will have a much greater Qc at 12v to handle the extra heat load for the quad core and a new 360mm radiator and some 3000rpm fans. With my PWM controller it uses very little power most of the time and holds the same cold plate temperature at all times and I have zero condensation as I have insulated my motherboard very well and it's basically airtight around the socket so I have dropped temps as far as -5*c with CPU at idle without condensation but it doesn't have enough Qc to hold less than 15*c during gaming sessions so I just set it to 14*c, during stress tests it even climbs to 21*c but never goes above 15*c under normal loads.

I have plans to implement 2 12715 TECs under volted to 5v into my hot side water loop to get my deltas between air in to the radiator and water out of the radiator to close to 0*c, which is virtually impossible with just fans with ambient air blowing through the rad, I will have a 360mm rad and a 120mm rad with 3000rpm fans but I still don't think it will hold 2*c deltas from air in to water out so I will add the 2 12715's in for a bit of extra hot side capacity to keep my water as close to ambient temperature as possible, but under volted to 5v so that it won't be below ambient (or not by much) and the radiators don't counteract the TEC's and just waste power, they will have the cold sides on some universal GPU blocks plumbed into my water loop and the hot side will be cooled by some old GPU twin heat pipe heat sinks with 140mm fans on them, its just a cheap test I'm running with stuff I had laying around to see if I can improve the performance of my water cooling without spending too much money on radiators and fans. I may not need the 2 12715's but I'll do it for fun anyway, its only an extra 22.5w power consumption/tec and adds about 100w of heat load capacity to my water loop on the hot side of my direct die TEC, which I'll need when I switch to the larger kryotherm TEC which will be a 200w heat load by itself when my CPU is at 100% load to keep the cold plate at the set temp plus the 100-150w of CPU itself, I think I'll be able to hold 10-15*c IHS temps pretty easily with that kryotherm TEC and the extra hot side cooling capacity I'll be adding with the 12715's and 3000rpm fans on radiators. If I buy another pump I may even switch it up and make a second loop with the radiators and water cool the hot side of the 12715's and run them at 12v which will chill the direct die TEC and then run 720mm (120mm + 240mm + 360mm) of radiator with 3000rpm fans to handle the heat load of it all, I'll need more water blocks and another power supply though so I'm not ready for that yet but it may be the next evolution of this setup, and it would all still fit inside my case but it would allow me to run my IHS temps down to -10*c at 100% CPU load for a little extra overclocking headroom, minus 10*c would be really nice as long as my insulation job is good enough to avoid condensation. I'll start a thread when I put the 4670k, kryotherm TEC and my new radiator in and replumb my loop with the 2 12715 chillers in.

LZF is going to be capable of some pretty low IHS temps with his 6 tec chiller which we should see running shortly, and he can tune it for low power consumption for 24/7 use or some all out benching runs with the press of a few buttons, I love the flexibility and affordability of some TEC action compared to the custom built SS Phase stuff or chill box stuff. Converting a window AC to a chiller is pretty easy but its bulky and noisy and ugly so I prefer TECs to that even if they are slightly inferior temp wise.
Edited by LiamG6 - 11/8/15 at 5:49am
post #259 of 748
Yes the thing betwenn the alloy plates are 12706, its left over peltier since I upgraded, the things on the proper waterblock is tec1-19906. All running at full speeds thumb.gif
post #260 of 748
Nice! My kryotherm tec could be described as 11123 haha. 111 couples 23a 14v, very inefficient. But at 12v it has nice Qc and it's only 40x35mm so I'll try it direct die.

You should try some under volted larger tecs though, customthermoelectrics 400w qmax 19928 TEC at 12v would give you far more cooling capacity, a greater delta and similar power consumption thumb.gif
Edited by LiamG6 - 11/8/15 at 2:41pm
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Peltiers / TEC
Overclock.net › Forums › Cooling › Specialized Cooling › Peltiers / TEC › Triple peltier chiller