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[Build] 6.8L MiniCube - Iris Pro Graphics 6200 - FlexATX - Page 7

post #61 of 85
Thread Starter 
Adapter has arrived! smile.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by iFreilicht View Post

You can always mount the adapter with double sided foam tape, you'll never remove it from the casing anyway.
Do you think the double sided foam tape will hold the adapter strongly enough when inserting the connector of the SATA cable?
As I am going to cut the casing at the opposite side of the connector, there won't be any 'wall' to prevent the adapter to be pushed out of the casing.
Dunno if some hot glue will hold the adapter to the casing better?

Or I could use the 2 holes in the middle of the adapter and drill 2 holes into the casing:


Any other ideas?

EDIT: Thought about it over night, the double sided foam tape will do. I could always attach the cable while holding the adapter before closing the SSD casing.
Edited by BaK2BaK - 10/28/15 at 11:46pm
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Centurion1
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post #62 of 85
Quote:
Originally Posted by BaK2BaK View Post

Adapter has arrived! smile.gif

Do you think the double sided foam tape will hold the adapter strongly enough when inserting the connector of the SATA cable?
As I am going to cut the casing at the opposite side of the connector, there won't be any 'wall' to prevent the adapter to be pushed out of the casing.
Dunno if some hot glue will hold the adapter to the casing better?

Or I could use the 2 holes in the middle of the adapter and drill 2 holes into the casing:


Any other ideas?

EDIT: Thought about it over night, the double sided foam tape will do. I could always attach the cable while holding the adapter before closing the SSD casing.

Yes, the double sided foam tape will be enough. I would never use hot glue, that's way harder to remove. If you were to use glue, epoxy is the better alternative, it's easier to work with. The foam tape has a pretty large surface area and plugging the SATA connectors in only results in translational stress, which the tape will easily be able to cope with.

Drilling holes might be a better option if you're going for professional flair, but as it's not going to be seen either way, I wouldn't worry about it too much.
post #63 of 85
Thread Starter 
Thx for your advice! Will get 2mm thick foam tape.
Hopefully I will be able to show you the final product this week-end.

Never worked with epoxy, or maybe without knowing it was that.
Will get some to see how it looks as it could be useful to displace the standoff of the case power button.
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post #64 of 85
I'm eager to see it! smile.gif

Should work a treat, but it could look a bit dodgy. Not sure how much you actually care about looks there, though, most of it should be covered by the button. Maybe you could even make a shroud for the power button PCB from a small piece of aluminium?
post #65 of 85
Thread Starter 
Here comes the 5x7cm SSD casing biggrin.gif
(Sorry for th yellowish pics, should have forced the flash to start )





I finally made my own double sided foam tape, with a 2mm white foam sandwiched in between a very strong double sided tape.

Worked on the custom 'PSU-case' backplate also, but no time to attack the power button yet.
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post #66 of 85
Looks just like a regular SSD, just cut in half. I love it biggrin.gif
post #67 of 85
Thread Starter 
Heh yeah, cute lil thing! They should commercialize such small SSD, would go well along with Pi or other small computers! wink.gif
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post #68 of 85
Quote:
Originally Posted by gintama7888 View Post

Try using the latest driver, https://downloadcenter.intel.com/search?keyword=Intel%C2%AE+Iris%E2%84%A2+Pro+Graphics+6200+for+5th+Generation+Intel%C2%AE+Core%E2%84%A2+Processors

I get ~3100 with 5775C, memory running at 2400mhz dual channel.
http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/10362127

Quoted for later.

So far the irisPro has shocked me. It's amazing! This combo stomps on the 7850k APU I had because it allows me better performance scaling when I tweak my graphics settings.
post #69 of 85
Thread Starter 
Finally some update smile.gif
The rig has been running fine at 4.3GHz/1.415V so I've decided to take it apart for the final steps.

I got some Crucial Ballistix Sport VLP to follow @InfraRedRabbit 's proposal.
In the following pic, the cooler is not fixed on the motherboard. It touches the RAM being not exactly on its right position, but I guess there is some room with the screws that will let me install it that way. I hope the heatpipes touching the RAM heatspreader won't hurt.


I tried the 'vice only' delidded method, worked well!

The temp at load is decent (80°C) even with so much voltage, but I would like to see if I can gain some degrees in order to remove the top fan of the cooler.
That will then let me put the PSU where the fan was and thus making enough room in front of the PCie x16 slot to have a PCIe SSD there. This is a future plan and well, I needed an excuse to try delidding this chip! tongue.gif

As with my Ivy, I had then in mind to lap the CPU heatsink and the base of the cooler to improve contact. So I've made a pressure test:

The contact paper shows a very good result in my opinion. There are some white spots in the center and also less contact on the left part. But I am not sure lapping by hand will make a big difference. Still thinking about it...

Then I realised I should also test the contact between the dies and the heatsink:

Not that good here, unfortunately it will be very hard to lap the inner side of the heatsink to get a flat surface.
I count on the CLP liquid metal to do its job here. And as I did this test without the cooler installed, maybe its pressure on the heatsink could improve the contact a bit.

Apart from that the PSU has been painted black, so much nicer!
And I am now sleeving its cables, hard stuff to do for a first timer like me.

Thx for reading, nice pics of cables to come soon hopefully!
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Centurion1
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post #70 of 85
Very cool, hope to see the temps drop even further!

Can we get a picture or two of the painted PSU?
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