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Zowie EC1-A - Help me mod it! - Page 4

post #31 of 68
Quote:
Originally Posted by qsxcv View Post

can't be that hard with a lot of desoldering wick, and some clamps to hold stuff.

yes, that's what all think when they DEsolder the first time.
they know better when they have destroyed the PCB and their own nerves tho. tongue.gif
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post #32 of 68
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by thuNDa View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by qsxcv View Post

can't be that hard with a lot of desoldering wick, and some clamps to hold stuff.

yes, that's what all think when they DEsolder the first time.
they know better when they have destroyed the PCB and their own nerves tho. tongue.gif
This is what I am afraid of. It always seems easier in theory, but in practice it may not be... However, I'm not going to be a wimp about it. As soon as the parts arrive and I've finalized my plan, I'll open it up and do my best - with perhaps some advice from that drunk I know. drunken.gif lol

So basically, just use more solder to boost the switch? Or am I putting something underneath as well? I would say there is about .5mm of space between the switch and shell LBM which allows the shell to wiggle. The RMB sits directly on the shell so as long as the Omrons fit just as well I think I'll leave that one alone.
Edited by cookieboyeli - 9/18/15 at 4:53pm
post #33 of 68
Thread Starter 
Update time!

The D2FC-F-7 and D2F-01F switches I ordered have finally arrived! I was planning on swapping out the LED with a dim diffused amber LED I ordered from mouser for another project, but they got lost in the mail! Status says "delivered" but it most certainly was not. I think I'm going to go ahead without the LED's if they don't show in a day or two.
I don't want to waste mouse feet tearing them off a second time. I've only got one set and can't order more either.

I can't crack it open yet because I am staying at hotel while my house is de-molded. When I do (soon) I'll be sure to take some pictures of the process and let you know the results! I'll be weighing it on my scale as well. It goes to the 100th of a gram. thumb.gif
post #34 of 68
Thread Starter 
Working on it right now!
post #35 of 68
Thread Starter 
Posting on keyboard only. House is on fire, I've failed.

I've managed to remove the LED! I'm not putting one back in it's place because screw it, LEDs are annoying on mice.
Next up are switches. I'm going to try the front side switch first in case I screw up since it is least used. My camera is "dead" but I'm going to see if I can get a picture out of it once we're set up again. My second set of hands is having a smoke. In order to exit the room we're soldering in you have to do a bit of a puzzle/dance with the chairs/people/TOILET. lol We're in a hotel bathroom since it's got the best lighting and counter space! It also has a handy ceiling vent so we don't set off the fire alarm in my no smoking room.
Unfortunately, it's VERY CRAMPED with two chairs!! lol One chair actually goes ON TOP of the toilet and if you lean the wrong way it flushes it lolol it's pretty funny the first time but gets old fast haha. If I fall backwards I'm going in the tub.

I'll try to squeeze one picture out of my camera.

EDIT: Oh boy editing is hard.
Edited by cookieboyeli - 10/17/15 at 7:40pm
post #36 of 68
Thread Starter 
OK! biggrin.gif We're three hours in and have some good progress to report!

I've done the scroll wheel switch and side switches with D2F-01F. I'm working on Left & Right right now which I decided to use D2FC-F-7N on. D2F-01F has markedly more resistance and somewhat less travel then D2FC-F-7N. It's really hard to tell which I prefer more. I'm not sure I made the right choices for placement. I'll figure that out when I get in game. smile.gif
The old side switched Huano Red were SO, SO bad. They actually wiggle a large amount and have a MASSIVE amount of travel with an extremely mushy click that is light resistance towards the top, and firmish towards the bottom, but suddenly bottoms out. Complete garbage. The stock mouse is still amazing, but the blemish can't be ignored. The Huano Blue is also extremely bad, though not AS bad as Red. They have an insane amount of wiggle with the switch coming out almost twice as high as the D2F-01F which has a highish switch but small travel still. Huano Blue though have a large amount of travel with medium amount of mush. For mush reference D2FC-F-7N has almost 0 with a low resistance and satisfyingly clickier click, D2F-01F doesn't have "mush" per-say, but it's resistance can be felt much more. In a good way though. I think D2FC-F-7N will do excellent with extremely rapid clicking, but have a chance of clicking a bit too easy. D2F-01F will probably not click as insanely fast because of the resistance but might actually do better because of that with the smaller travel.

I took some terrible quick pictures of the scene, but can't upload easily with keyboard only ATM. The soldering iron we're using is garbage. No seriously, it was literally found AT THE DUMP! It's a 30w from the 1950's with a loose plug and a cork for a handle! It almost burns my fingers after a few minutes. It has a fat tip and horrible for getting in tiny places, but it does the job. Some holes can't be cleared unless we put more solder in them first. Good to know.

Oh yes, I've soldered the side switches up pretty high. I'd like to say 5/8mm. I can't want to try those low travel high resistance switches there.

As for weight, the Huano switches weigh between .6 and .7 grams, while the Omrons weigh between .7 and .8 grams.

If anyone has any ideas about how to reduce weight while I've got it open speak now or forever hold your peace. If I've got a good enough reason I'll open it up again though.

I WILL be getting a few pictures of the board and switches up close when I'm done if my camera can last. The charger is lost in storage right now.
post #37 of 68
Thread Starter 





lol



I tried to get some more pictures of the mouse, but after two blurry ones the camera shut off again, this time probably for good, though I may be able to revive it for one more by heating the battery a little (again). Sorry it's 4:3. I don't know why, I didn't change it from 16:9. Original Res is 4608 x 3456 at least which makes up for the quality quite a bit. Just click the picture and hit original to view full res.

We're done for today after 4 hours. The results?

We were able to swap out all the switches and get it back together despite our really, really lousy tools. I learned a lot about soldering and will probably be able to do it myself with better tools and a "third hand" thingy. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RB38X8/
I think the switches are really nice and will be a great improvement... but (and now the bad part)

I can't really test it out because no clicks are registering. The mouse plugs in and is detected, mouse moves around, DPI switch works, but no clicks from any buttons OR the scroll wheel scrolling are detected. We definitely busted something, but I'm not sure what. Nothing looks busted. We left out a paper washer and a small copper thing that looks to be for an electrical connection, but we can't figure out where the blazes it came from or where it goes back to. I'll try to get a picture of it.

I really need your guys help on this, after all that work I'm not calling it "broken". No way.

Some so/so news. I figured out the way the side buttons work and why they suck so much. Yes the Reds were bad, but actually 90% of the problem is coming from the buttons and their spring mounting. The coil is encased in a plastic shell and they buttons are allowed a lot of travel after clicking. There's less travel now because they are stopped by the switches earlier, but that's pressing the switches in. Now the majority of the travel is coming from far before the clicking, it takes a while to get to it. I want the button bumper to rest directly on the switch and have all movement be determined by that. I can either disable the spring which might not work to make the buttons pop back out, OR I can do this.
Add something between the button and the shell which makes the button start later, pressed almost 1mm in, then shave off a ton of plastic touching the switch so the switch isn't clicked and I can have exactly the right amount of pressure on it or travel to it. (None)

I'm stuck using my DA 2013 for now mad.gif but I'm noticing the side buttons are a lot closer to what I'm looking for. They have the same problem though, just MUCH less of it.

I think I will also order a white scroll wheel since the LED is removed now and possible make it a free spinning wheel or at least test that out with the clear wheel before I commit to it with the white one.
Could the LED removal have something to do with it not working? We were gentle, didn't break any traces that I could see or notice... I know some electronics rely on it and it's forward voltage as a critical component like the Objective 2 AMP. Does the Zowie EC1-A?

Let me know if you need any pictures to help diagnose this guys. I'll get a new cord tomorrow or the next day.
Edited by cookieboyeli - 10/18/15 at 5:34pm
post #38 of 68
Thread Starter 
Bump. Need some help figuring out where to start to find what's broken.

If anyone knows where to get replacement parts or accessories like scroll wheels that would be much appreciated. I want to put a white one in that is lighter and has slightly less resistance. I also want to put a new cord in since I melted mine a little bit. Noob mistake there but I was looking for an excuse anyway. I hate the cloth wires, and wire that comes with it is excellent with it's tension, weight, etc.

The top section of the mouse has really thick plastic as well. I definitely want to take some off but I don't know how to safely remove it.
Edited by cookieboyeli - 10/18/15 at 4:50pm
post #39 of 68
so nothing on the button-PCB works?
maybe the flat cable is broken, it also looks like it on the pic.
In best case it's only the GND-trace in it, which is broken, that you could bridge with a single separate wire.
Or get another of these cables:
https://www.google.com/search?q=12+pin+flachbandkabel&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAWoVChMItpq_wLvOyAIVAp9yCh0SlQrS&biw=1344&bih=707
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post #40 of 68
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by thuNDa View Post

so nothing on the button-PCB works?
maybe the flat cable is broken, it also looks like it on the pic.
In best case it's only the GND-trace in it, which is broken, that you could bridge with a single separate wire.
Or get another of these cables:
https://www.google.com/search?q=12+pin+flachbandkabel&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAWoVChMItpq_wLvOyAIVAp9yCh0SlQrS&biw=1344&bih=707
Yup, the button PCB is unresponsive. I can't tell if it has power or not because I removed the LED. I'll get a multimeter and test or perhaps reattach the LED although I don't know in what configuration it was in and it has 4 leads so maybe I shouldn't.

It DOES have a little tiny pinhole in it, but shining a flashlight through it reveals the pinhole goes smack dab in the middle of the wires without breaking them. At least that's how it appears no matter how I look at it. The ribbon cable was definitely roughed up in the process though.

I'll take some macro shots of the PCB likely tomorrow when I get a charger cable for this damn camera. (And a screwdriver since my helper took my only one that worked).
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