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Flavors matter?

post #1 of 8
Thread Starter 
Is there a difference in the types of Blocks as in Acetal, Nickel, Acetal + Nickel? Or is it just a design preference? I did read in one of the guides that you shouldn't mix them?
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post #2 of 8
Preference only. If you want to see the coolant in the block then go with acrylic (clear see through), if you don't care to see it then go with acetal (usually solid black). Nickel (copper plated with a nickel finish) is what the actual metal block is made of that touches the processor and transfers the heat. Acetal and acrylic are the tops that mount to the block and what you connect the fittings to. Only metal not to mix is aluminum. Hope that explains a little better.

EDIT: I said preference only, but sometimes blocks are only made one way not both. Example, the Bitspower block on my Strix 960 only comes in acrylic +nickel, there isn't a acetal version at all.
Edited by Radnad - 9/18/15 at 9:02pm
 
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post #3 of 8
Thread Starter 
Thanks. I haven't water cooled before so I am looking at the EKWB extreme kit with an added GPU block.
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post #4 of 8
The EK kits are great, that's what I originally started with and just expanded from there.
 
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post #5 of 8
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Radnad View Post

The EK kits are great, that's what I originally started with and just expanded from there.
I'm a little sad that they won't swap stuff in them. I'd like colored tubing, wish that was an option. Debating on getting the x360 and adding the 295x2 full cover block and backplate and a second radiator. (debating on adding a 2nd 295x2 to my system when I do this build.)
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post #6 of 8
I would like to add there is a slight difference aside from aesthetics, Each metal has an electrode potential ranging from cathodic (resistant to corrosion) to anodic. When metals are in contact electrically there is a potential for galvanic corrosion, the higher the difference in electrode potential the more likely galvanic corrosion is going to occur.



Example looking at that chart Zinc will corrode extremely fast if in electrical contact with something highly cathodic like gold as the metallic ions from the zinc are transferred to the gold. The lower the difference in electode potential between the metals the slower corrosion will occur, now if we look at something like copper (-0.4) and nickel-silver (-0.3) which is most commonly used nickel for electroplating there is a difference in electrode potential, it's not huge but enough to cause some corrosion over time. In a water-loop the water blocks are electrically in contact with fittings, radiators and other blocks via the water in the loop. If you look at silver it is more cathodic at -0.2 and this is why a lot of people who use silver kill coils tend to experience faster corrosion.

If you are going to go for copper I would try and suggest you get everything possible in copper, likewise with nickel try and get all the same metal in the loop.

The difference in nickel and copper is not going to destroy your loop however it will cause quite a bit of discoloration in the copper blocks and require more regular flushing/cleaning to maintain. The gunk that people clean out of their blocks is often a combination of dye deposits from the coolant and some oxidization from galvanic corrosion, in the picture below its mostly oxidization and some dye depositing in the centre.



Some companies leave the copper on their blocks raw and others put a protective lacquer on their blocks. EK does not lacquer thier blocks but Heatkiller and Aqua-computer do lacquer their blocks. The raw ones (EK) are completely fine to clean with lemon juice, tomato sauce, acid or whatever mildly acidic solution takes your fancy however I would urge you not to clean lacquered blocks with acidic solutions as it will completely strip the lacquer of the block (although you can get them re-lacquered).
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post #7 of 8
Just wanted to say thanks for the good info Stickeelion. Random question, but why do they use Nickel instead of Tin if it's closer to Copper on this chart? Is Tin more expensive than Nickel? At first I was thinking melting point but it's still way higher than the water would possibly get.
Edited by TheBloodEagle - 9/26/15 at 1:08am
post #8 of 8
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBloodEagle View Post

Just wanted to say thanks for the good info Stickeelion. Random question, but why do they use Nickel instead of Tin if it's closer to Copper on this chart? Is Tin more expensive than Nickel? At first I was thinking melting point but it's still way higher than the water would possibly get.

Tin plating is actually much cheaper. I believe the main reason they wouldn't use tin is that it is quite soft and not very durable.
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