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Image editing build question.

post #1 of 46
Thread Starter 
Hi guys,

Building an image editing machine with £1200 budget and atm got this rough build. What do you think?




Thank you smile.gif
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post #2 of 46
There a number of things you can do much better with that system.

First off that cooler you picked is not very good nor very quiet and you would be far better off with a good air cooler this would be both better and more quiet and maybe you can even save some money.

Second you dont need a 750 watt PSU for that build unless you are going to add a second video card, The Corsair CS is not the best PSU either its not bad but its not that great and you can get a better PSU for the same money or less.
Edited by shilka - 9/21/15 at 3:35am
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post #3 of 46
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the reply smile.gif

Would Corsair RM 650W be better(saw it in the recommended thread)? I need something modular.

Looking at it yeah the H60 seems to has less positive reviews compared to H75, would you think H75 be better option?

I am looking for water cooling as I wanted to make sort of minimalistic build without massive heatsinks inside.
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post #4 of 46
No the RM is worse
Why you might not want to buy a Corsair RM PSU

Stay away from Corsair they are way overpriced and there are better options for less money.
And you dont need more then a 550 watt PSU unless you are going to add a second video card later, the XFX XTR / Antec Edge / Cooler Master V550 / Super Flower Leadex / EVGA SuperNova G2/P2 are better options then anything Corsair has and they are cheaper as well

Stay away from AIO coolers as well they are way overrated and most high end air coolers are just as good or better costs less make less noise and are way more reliable.
Edited by shilka - 9/21/15 at 5:00am
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post #5 of 46
Unless you want to absolutely run 4.4 out of the box, without overclocking yourself, buying 9xxx series is too costly and runs hotter too, compared to 8300, 8320E, 8370E or 8370. They can all overclock to 4.4 very easily and with less voltage (and thus less heat). You have to go to the BIOS, raise multiplier, raise voltage, stress test and you 're done. The 9xxx are overpriced, for those who don't want to do this simple procedure on their own. All 9xxx are actually high leak parts, so they run hotter than the ones i mentioned (which are low leak parts). The 9xxx are basically factory overclocked chips.

If you go with 8xxx (and overclock) instead of 9xxx, you can also go with Gigabyte 970 UD3P (provided you don't need 2nd GPU), as it will run 4.5-4.7 an 8core CPU. The UD5 is better motherboard, but the UD3P is cheaper. Just saying... I mean, many overclock to 4.4 on 4+1 boards, bringing them to their knees. The UD3P is 8+2 phase and can handle 4.5 with ease.

I also agree that the H60 is mediocre and will have more trouble than a good air cooler.
Edited by Undervolter - 9/21/15 at 3:42am
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post #6 of 46
Thread Starter 
Thanks for all the feedback guys smile.gif

So this is the revised build:

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post #7 of 46
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mariusmsj View Post

Thanks for all the feedback guys smile.gif

So this is the revised build:



Just 8 pounds difference between 8370 and 9370? Hmmm. Never mind, the 8370 is still newer chip and will run cooler. Besides, even at stock 4Ghz, it will be very good. Overclocking it to 4.5 will be piece of cake. If you want to save more, you could go 8320E. The stock clock is low (3.2), but it can overclock to 4.5 no problem too. With the 8370 you simply get a higher stock clock (which, well, is cosy i guess) and a chip that is more likely to go further than 4.5, if you wish so.

The Prolimatech cooler should be absolutely fine at least up to 4.5 and probably beyond, since the 8370 should overclock with lower voltage than the 9370. At any case, with 8370, on the UD3P and the Prolimatech, you will be without issues at 4.5Ghz, without any serious heat issues. Beyond 4.5, you may need to add a small fan to blow on the VRM heatsink of the motherboard, but, already at 4.5Ghz, you should have a very good performance, no need to push further.

P.S.: If you get the rev.1 motherboard, make sure you update to latest BIOS (it says "beta", but it's stable). Also use the drivers from Gigabyte's website, instead of the CD. They are more mature.

If you want to be picky, you could see if you can get 1866Mhz RAM instead of 1600. The difference in performance is very small, but just since it's the max the FX officially supports, if you can, why not. If this is a good deal though, don't worry about it, 1600Mhz will do fine.
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post #8 of 46
Have you looked at Phanteks cases? those are often way overlooked.

The Noctua NH-U12S or NH-U14S might a better option cooler wise.
Edited by shilka - 9/21/15 at 5:00am
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post #9 of 46
Thread Starter 
Undervolter - thank you, got myself 1866MHz ram and it's cheaper biggrin.gif saved £20

shilka - wow that case looks much better and is far cheaper and has better reviews !

I think I got my build now.

Thank you for all help smile.gif
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post #10 of 46
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mariusmsj View Post

Undervolter - thank you, got myself 1866MHz ram and it's cheaper biggrin.gif saved £20

shilka - wow that case looks much better and is far cheaper and has better reviews !

I think I got my build now.

Thank you for all help smile.gif
I got a Luxe myself and other then a few flaws due to me getting one of the first ones sold its a great case.


The LED strip inside is an extra item you can buy from Phanteks but it only fits on the Luxe not on the Pro and Primo.
It lights the same color as the LED on the outside so if you change the outside light the inside light will change as well and you got 10 color options.
Edited by shilka - 9/21/15 at 5:18am
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