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Feedback on parts list for my first custom loop

post #1 of 7
Thread Starter 
Hi guys,

First timer here looking to put together a watercooling loop for my existing rig ( http://de.pcpartpicker.com/p/tthwQ7 ). Currently using the H100i GTX cooler but I'm not 100% happy with it.

My goals with this upgrade are:

1. Silence. When I bought this PC, I did not expect it to produce so annoying noise. What bothers me is not really the noise level (which is actually quieter than my old PC) but rather the different types of noise. Whining from the H100i pump, the radiator fans, and the case fans will spin up and down whenever they feel like it. The noise profile constantly changes, and that's a bit annoying.

A custom loop should give me enough control over pump and fans that I can quiet them down, as well as keep the noise constant between idle and load scenarios.

2. Better temps for extreme overclocking. The 4790k is a very hot running chip especially when overclocked. I have it volted @ 1.35v right now, and my H100i GTX is struggling to keep up. Temps will go up to the low 70's on full load, and even beyond 90°C on a heat inducing stress test (Prime95). I get a roughly 5° improvement when I set the H100i pump and fans to Performance but it sounds horrible when I do that. A custom loop would give me both silence *and* better overclocking temps.

When I get a new chip that OC's better I would also like to dabble with some more extreme overclocks. I don't mind if the chip is fried after a year of usage. The work that I do (software development) benefits a whole lot from a faster CPU so I would upgrade anyway whenever the next chip comes out.

I am not currently interested in adding my GPU to the loop. The STRIX cooler is actually very good. I've never ever heard the fans over the rest of my system. During desktop usage (which I am doing 95% of the time) the fans don't spin at all. Under a full gaming load, the fans go up to 45% speed but again I've never been able to make out their sound. I'm not interested in overclocking my GPU either. CPU overclocking yields me an increase in productivity in the work I do, but GPU overclocking does not.

3. Low maintenance. I've heard of people running their loops for years on end with no problems. There's no reason to drain and refill a loop that performs perfectly fine. Of course you may need to top it off occasionally to account for evaporation, but that's hardly maintenance is it. If I stick to distilled water with a kill coil, and don't mix metals then the loop should be low maintenance right?

Here are the parts that I've chosen and why:

https://www.neon24.de/Monsoon-Series-Two-D5-Premium-Dual-525-Reservoir-Green

A dual bay module is the only way I'm realistically going to fit a pump and res with two radiators in my 350D case. I chose this particular one because it's supposed to fully decouple the pump, so noise should be less of an issue.

https://www.neon24.de/Alphacool-VPP655-PWM-Single-Edition

D5 pump because I've heard they're generally quieter than DDC pumps. I went with the PWM edition since you can set it to even lower speeds (800 rpm) than the 5-way speed knob version. I'm hoping the pump will be inaudible with that config in the Monsoon bay.

https://www.neon24.de/Alphacool-NexXxoS-ST30-Full-Copper-240mm

This rad would go in the top of my 350D. A 280mm supposedly fits there but I highly suspect that it would clash with the Dual Bay res. I've also heard that 140mm radiator fans tend to be louder. It will be a tight fit in any case so I'd go with a 240 rad.

https://www.neon24.de/Alphacool-NexXxoS-UT60-Full-Copper-240mm

This rad will go in the front. I have a long GPU, so with a rad this thick I may not have space to do a push/pull config, but I probably don't need that anyway.

https://www.caseking.de/ek-water-blocks-ek-supremacy-evo-acetal-waek-872.html

Supposed to be the best performing block on the market. Since the CPU block is the first potential bottleneck in any cooling setup I figured that it makes sense to invest in the best one. In a couple reviews I've read it can perform up to 5°C better than some of the lower cost blocks.

https://www.neon24.de/Alphacool-HF-13-10-Anschraubtuelle-G1-4-Deep-Black

Again not cheap for a first build but what the hell. I figured compression fittings are a good investment for a secure fit, and compared to what I'm shelling out for the other components it's not that much anyway.

https://www.neon24.de/Schlauch-AlphaTube-HF-13-10-Klar-3m

Clear tubing with clear fluid should look great in my black case with green LEDs.

I haven't decided on radiator fans yet so I'm open to any suggestions. Very silent at low RPM is the keyword. The Gentle Typhoon ones are supposed to be good but I can't find them for purchase anywhere in the EU.

I know that two rads just for a CPU is overkill but again my goals are as silent as possible and great temps with an extreme overclock.

It would mean a lot to me if an experienced watercooler could take a quick look at the parts to see if I've made any mistakes, or give improvement suggestions, or tell me that my ideas are just plain stupid. Thanks!
Edited by scrawl5 - 9/22/15 at 7:44am
post #2 of 7
Buy tubing like Tygon Norprene, EK ZMT or Primochill Advanced LRT for Low Maintenance (They have nearly no plastilizer).
The new HK4 series cpu cooler was the winner @hardwaremax.net, so it´s a good alternative. Also the cheap alphacool block
Try to buy as much as possible at Aquatuning because they may give you a neat discount code
Which fan speed will you run with the monster rad ? Push/pull or one sided fan config only ?
Those monsta rads are often expensive but don´t give a great advantage in comparison to the cheaper thinner ones.
Some suggetions for rad fans: Phobya/Alphacool ELoop, Noctua Industrials, Scythe Glide Stream, Cooler Master Silencio, Enermax Twister Pressure, Alphacool Susurro
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post #3 of 7
Thread Starter 
Thanks for bringing the plasticizer issue to my attention, I will look into that and make sure to get quality tubing.

I'm not sure yet if I'll run the front in push/pull or single sided. Push/pull on a 60mm rad would be a tight fit with my current GPU, and restrict my GPU upgrade options in the future. If I do single sided fans would it be better to go with a 45mm thick rad? Generally I want to run all fans at the slowest speed possible which is why I'm getting so much rad space and low FPI rad's.

I read somewhere that the ELoop fans can produce unwanted noise when there's a restrictive intake. I have the standard dust filter in the front and may get another one for the top later.

I've read so many praises about Noctua fans but none of their available colors fit my build really.

Currently looking at the Noiseblocker Multiframe S1 or S2 fans, they're a bit pricey but were highly reviewed on SPCR.

I still have a lot of fans to read through. Martin's liquid lab and SilentPcReview are my main go to sources for those reviews.
post #4 of 7
You seem to have made the effort to get a good understanding of the hardware and operation of water cooling so you are well ahead of many.

Monsta rads look impressive but have never lived up to the hype used to market them. In detailed testing under ideal conditions they at best produce a small benefit but mostly work less well than smaller rads. The irony of monstas is that they are rarely used in the arrangements that take advantage of them. They produce a benefit at high air flows, but are almost universally used at low flow.
The sheer size of them means they are used in large builds with lots of space whereas they are best employed in small builds with limited rad space and high speed fans.

Fans:
Eloop fans do produce a buzzing noise when restriction is too close to their intake but I found that didn't apply to filters mounted directly to them.

Rads:
To cool your system in that case I would without a doubt use a couple of thinner 240 or 280 rads. With fans at say 1200rpm max you will have enough cooling and remain nice and quiet.

Pump:
The pwm d5 is a great pump because all d5 / laing pumps are great pumps. The lower min speed is of very little use though as a regular vario at min speed is essentially silent and makes very, very little pressure.
The PWM version of the d5 is something of a hack rather than a genuine redesign. As a result lots of people have problems with them and find them frustrating to get to work properly, if at all, with many controllers and motherboards.

Maintainance:
For a properly low maintenance loop distilled and silver would be my last choice. That type of coolant works best when changed regularly. Though all that is required is to drain as much as possible and refill. It need not be a major operation.

To not have to touch the coolant for long durations only harsh chemical coolant will work, like auto coolants.

I use and would recommend a coolant containing an anti corrosive and change it every 12 months or so. I find I always make changes to the loop before then anyway though.
Edited by Jakusonfire - 9/23/15 at 7:20am
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post #5 of 7
Thread Starter 
Quote:
The pwm d5 is a great pump because all d5 / laing pumps are great pumps. The lower min speed is of very little use though as a regular vario at min speed is essentially silent and makes very, very little pressure.
The PWM version of the d5 is something of a hack rather than a genuine redesign. As a result lots of people have problems with them and find them frustrating to get to work properly, if at all, with many controllers and motherboards.
My concern is the min speed setting on the non-PWM pump might not be silent enough.

http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1437-page4.html

Mike from SPCR had to turn the (decoupled) PWM pump down to 35% (which according to Martin's testing is about 1000 RPM, but we don't know for sure) to get it "quiet" by SPCR standards. The minimum speed of the knob based D5 is 1800 RPM.

I'm probably just too paranoid about pump noise after my mediocre experience with the H100i. Either way, more control won't hurt.
Quote:
Monsta rads look impressive but have never lived up to the hype used to market them. In detailed testing under ideal conditions they at best produce a small benefit but mostly work less well than smaller rads. The irony of monstas is that they are rarely used in the arrangements that take advantage of them. They produce a benefit at high air flows, but are almost universally used at low flow.
The sheer size of them means they are used in large builds with lots of space whereas they are best employed in small builds with limited rad space and high speed fans.

Seems like you're right. Here's some tests martin did with the alphacool radiators of varying thickness:

https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2012/05/01/alphacool-nexxxos-st30-360-radiator/4/
https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2012/04/15/alphacool-nexxxos-xt45-360-radiator/4/
https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2012/04/12/alphacool-nexxxos-ut60-360-radiator/4/

They perform virtually the same when using slow speed fans.

I'll be going with two slim rads then.

Updated list:

Monsoon Series Two D5 Premium Dual 5.25" Reservoir
Alphacool VPP655 PWM Single Edition
PrimoFlex Advanced LRT 13/10mm Clear 1m x2
Alphacool HF 13/10 Compression Fitting G1/4 - Deep Black x8
EK-Supremacy EVO - Acetal
Alphacool NexXxoS ST30 Full Copper 240mm x2
Noiseblocker NB-Multiframe M12-S2 120mm x4

Total cost comes in just under 500€, slightly more than I expected but not too surprising considering I haven't really cheaped out on anything. The bay res is the most expensive part by far.
post #6 of 7
Quote:
Originally Posted by scrawl5 View Post

My concern is the min speed setting on the non-PWM pump might not be silent enough.

http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1437-page4.html

Mike from SPCR had to turn the (decoupled) PWM pump down to 35% (which according to Martin's testing is about 1000 RPM, but we don't know for sure) to get it "quiet" by SPCR standards. The minimum speed of the knob based D5 is 1800 RPM.

I'm probably just too paranoid about pump noise after my mediocre experience with the H100i. Either way, more control won't hurt.
Seems like you're right. Here's some tests martin did with the alphacool radiators of varying thickness:

https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2012/05/01/alphacool-nexxxos-st30-360-radiator/4/
https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2012/04/15/alphacool-nexxxos-xt45-360-radiator/4/
https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2012/04/12/alphacool-nexxxos-ut60-360-radiator/4/

They perform virtually the same when using slow speed fans.

I'll be going with two slim rads then.

Updated list:

Monsoon Series Two D5 Premium Dual 5.25" Reservoir
Alphacool VPP655 PWM Single Edition
PrimoFlex Advanced LRT 13/10mm Clear 1m x2
Alphacool HF 13/10 Compression Fitting G1/4 - Deep Black x8
EK-Supremacy EVO - Acetal
Alphacool NexXxoS ST30 Full Copper 240mm x2
Noiseblocker NB-Multiframe M12-S2 120mm x4

Total cost comes in just under 500€, slightly more than I expected but not too surprising considering I haven't really cheaped out on anything. The bay res is the most expensive part by far.

This looks like a solid build, great components and you will be getting good temps.

I am transplanting my current setup into a 350D so will let you know about the front radiator, I've got a rather thick Phobya 240mm rad so will see if I can manage push / pull in it thumb.gif
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post #7 of 7
Thread Starter 
Here's a rough sketch of the planned tubing runs and airflow.



From the measurements I've taken, the Monsoon res should *just* about fit with the top 240mm rad mounted below its fans, and the tubing side towards the res. If it ends up not fitting, I'll just have to mount the fans on the bottom of the radiator, or flip the radiator so that tubing goes in on the rear of the case.

Side note, why are there no radiators with tubing holes on both ends? That would be super convenient from a tubing perspective and look great too.
Edited by scrawl5 - 9/23/15 at 8:10am
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