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Identify parts/ pick what fits on my tight case - Page 3

post #21 of 32
Well with only ONE 360 Rad, you need some decent fans

the choice is: CHEAP - PERFORMANCE - SILENCE .. pick only TWO as per my sig smile.gif


The thing wiht the Vardars is, everybody is raving as if they are THE Second Coming of the Christ replacement for the proven Nidec AP/GT-15.. and they might well be... but they have no proven track record... as far as we know they all catch fire 3 months after purchase smile.gif

The JetFlow's are not bad.. but their track record is that they are a bit too noisy for their performance curve and not always that fantstic on radiators. But if you dont mind the noise/pitch they produce, by all means stick with them.

The eLoops have a really good performance while being low noise.. which is why they are not cheap (German engineering and all that)

Industrials like Delta, SanAce, etc... you get what it says on the tin, there is no second guessing whether they are good or silent or value


Now, you know this whole discussion is moot if your room temp is like only 15°C ... then a 360 rad is more as enough to keep a 980 TI subdued smile.gif However, if you room temp is like +30°C.. then definitely dial down on the OC and have the fans at full tilt.
Edited by RnRollie - 9/25/15 at 5:13am
post #22 of 32
Thread Starter 
My rig is the opposite of cheap ha. $500 cpu. $400 case. Etc

Ill give the vardars a shot.

I dont know what my room is, but the thermostat usually reads 80F or more (26c-ish). As far as OC, im aiming for 500mhz for now, 4Ghz should enough to get me through my workload

I think the biggest question for me is, do watercooled systems still need good case air flow? I have to have my ceiling fan on to keep my idle cpu temps around 45C because my case uses open air instead of fans

Now i just need a 100mm reservoir, pump, white tubing, and some type of way to drain
post #23 of 32
if using an internally mounted RAD, then yes, you still need good airflow smile.gif
Hence you need good fans smile.gif

Thing is, i've looked at this case in the past... toying with a wall mount idea... but in the end dismissed it because of:
-i would have liked the GPUs to be mounted higher, "hiding" the bottom part of the MB and that PCI_E extender cable.
-it has few other quirks.. like being NOT CHEAP for what is basically an upright videorecorder case smile.gif
-it has less than stellar airflow.. and where does the hot air of the PSU go to? Straight into the rad?
-its a dust magnet

It probably makes for a very nice low noise media center type of thing, but not that well suited for a performance machine.

In order for this case to work for me, i would have to mask/shut the side air intakes, so it doesn't suck in dust or bleed noise. Modify the "bottom" side to something perforated like the top and add a dust filter. And that only to have light bottom-to-top-straight-up airflow just for the MB & PSU.. The CPU & GPUs would be hooked up to my MO-RA3 on the next shelve. And looking at the cost & work involved, i decided i can make something which addresses all these issues myself.........

If only i had more time and a fully equiped workshop redface.gif


I like the idea & concept... but lian-li didn't manage to get it "just right" ... They've dropped the ball a bit... on several of their PC cases... for the last decade... which is a pity, really. I liked them better when they were innovative AND smart. rolleyes.gif



Anyways:
-2 fittings per element.. either just barbs or compression fittings - Bitspower aint bad at all.
-The D5/Res "small" combo from EK or BitsPower.
-Advanced LRT "white" hose - make SURE to MATCH hoses & compression fittings.
-add at least TWO rotational 45° or 90° fittings, you never know when they come in handy and its better to have them and not need them...
-add a simple T fitting or a Valved T-fitting for a (bottom) drain port
-consider a "silver bullet" to avoid creation of life in the loop
-add Walmart 1 gallon jug of distilled water

be prepared for the radiator dance also smile.gif
post #24 of 32
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by RnRollie View Post

if using an internally mounted RAD, then yes, you still need good airflow smile.gif
Hence you need good fans smile.gif
well the case air flow is fine, just that in a floor thats usually around 85F, my room happens to be the hottest. So im feeding a good 28C or higher air into it

Quote:
Originally Posted by RnRollie View Post

Thing is, i've looked at this case in the past... toying with a wall mount idea... but in the end dismissed it because of:
-i would have liked the GPUs to be mounted higher, "hiding" the bottom part of the MB and that PCI_E extender cable.
-it has few other quirks.. like being NOT CHEAP for what is basically an upright videorecorder case smile.gif
-it has less than stellar airflow.. and where does the hot air of the PSU go to? Straight into the rad?
-its a dust magnet

In other to have the gpu mounted higher the case would have to be bigger.
This is top end of their open air cases, thats why its a bit pricer. Theres the o5 series and o6 series. And theres an o8 series but its not wall mountable and its huge.

Yes. The psu exhaust is right underneath the exhaust. My psu runs cool.



The air flows in through the side and the exhaust pulls air the hot air out

Youre suppouse to clean your case regardless lol but mine hasnt had that much dust compared to my old Nzxt.


Quote:
Originally Posted by RnRollie View Post

I like the idea & concept... but lian-li didn't manage to get it "just right" ... They've dropped the ball a bit... on several of their PC cases... for the last decade... which is a pity, really. I liked them better when they were innovative AND smart. rolleyes.gif
its just niche thats all. Most people wouldnt have use for this type of case.


Quote:
Originally Posted by RnRollie View Post

Anyways:
-2 fittings per element.. either just barbs or compression fittings - Bitspower aint bad at all.
-The D5/Res "small" combo from EK or BitsPower.
-Advanced LRT "white" hose - make SURE to MATCH hoses & compression fittings.
-add at least TWO rotational 45° or 90° fittings, you never know when they come in handy and its better to have them and not need them...
-add a simple T fitting or a Valved T-fitting for a (bottom) drain port
-consider a "silver bullet" to avoid creation of life in the loop
-add Walmart 1 gallon jug of distilled water

be prepared for the radiator dance also smile.gif

Sounds good. Im thinking of acrylic tubing tho
Edited by gree - 9/25/15 at 7:41am
post #25 of 32
Acryll.. well, you're still in bitspower territory i guess smile.gif
Best visit the hardline bending 101 section... there is no room for error with hardline smile.gif
Although i'm not sure if you can get coloured hardline. In that case it means using a (food) dye in the distilled -which i strongly recommend against, especially for a daily runner. They are nice for photoshoots & show-offs... especially the pearl-dust effect ones... but they've been a source for all kind of problems & issues ever since somebody added printer toner to his loop back in the '90s
post #26 of 32
Thread Starter 
The rig im copying has pretty straight tubes. And id prefer thin rigid tubes


Would Advanced LRT give me straight thin tubes that look like glass? I was under the impression acrylic was the better rigid tubing
post #27 of 32
Advanced LRT is hose.. if you fit it right, with the right angled fittings & short runs & such ...it *can* look like rigid pipe... especially the coloured hose.

As for rigid tubes.. if you dont want to bend the tubes, you have to use angled fittings made for rigid tube... you'ld be surprised how quickly THAT adds up in $$$
And you have to cut very very precisely.. no room for error.
You should check out a few of the rigid tube builds smile.gif

Not saying that it cant be done... its just that there is a steep & expensive learning curve smile.gif
Doing a WC build with rigid tube is not something you do on a lazy sunday between breakfast & lunch.. unless you've done 100's before smile.gif
post #28 of 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by RnRollie View Post

Advanced LRT is hose.. if you fit it right, with the right angled fittings & short runs & such ...it *can* look like rigid pipe... especially the coloured hose.

As for rigid tubes.. if you dont want to bend the tubes, you have to use angled fittings made for rigid tube... you'ld be surprised how quickly THAT adds up in $$$
And you have to cut very very precisely.. no room for error.
You should check out a few of the rigid tube builds smile.gif

Not saying that it cant be done... its just that there is a steep & expensive learning curve smile.gif
Doing a WC build with rigid tube is not something you do on a lazy sunday between breakfast & lunch.. unless you've done 100's before smile.gif

This, but i will throw this out there for the advanced lrt soft tubing. It comes coiled in a package and those bends are hard as hell to get out and trying to make soft tubing look like rigid tubing is a futile attempt in my opinion, especially if you're trying to do a right angle like this> right angle (Click to show)
the weight of the 90 degree fitting is guaranteed not to be enough from keeping the soft tube from curling a bit.
post #29 of 32
Thread Starter 
Guess no on that LRT.


I see some colored acyrlic tubes.

PrimoChill 1/2in Rigid Acrylic Tubing - 36in - White

Bitspower None Chamfer Crystal Link Tube-Length 1000mm (White)

Monsoon PETG Hardline Tube 1/2 x 5/8 - 36" 4 Pack - White
Edited by gree - 9/25/15 at 9:36am
post #30 of 32
Thread Starter 
Bump. Anybody know if the EK xres 100 revo d5 pwm pump/res combo is any good?

Also AC fittings for those tubes?


And if i want a white & black build should i do white sleeve/heatshrink? (So far white mobo/gpu/fans/tubing)
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