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White residue on Swiftech chromed fitting & green residue on plastics. Corrosion, plasticizer, or other residue?

post #1 of 6
Thread Starter 
Quick question, wanted some input.

I disassembled loop today and found some white residue on the barb of a Swiftech Lok-Seal compression fitting (inlet flow direction to radiator). Also curious is how quickly clear tubing turns brown, and plastics form a sort of green residue.



  • Residue description: 4-6wks usage since last flush/clean, white residue on chromed Swiftech Lok-Seal fitting seems hard, doesn't wipe off, only fingernails scrape at it but does not flake. Other parts (fittings, pump top, etc.) seem to have a green-ish residue which wipes off easy. Inside of radiators look a bit green-ish too, tarnished?
  • Coolant: Distilled water, nothing else. loop was semi-flushed after Distilled+PT Nuke PHN in prior fill.
  • Tubing: Plasticizer-free EPDM Rubber tubing with two (temporary) small strips of silicone based tubing (old Primoflex) in loop. (which turned brown, Vinyl tubing does the same in my loop. seems stained, nothing to scrape off).
  • Metals/Materials in loop: Copper, Brass, Acrylic, Acetel (POM), Polypropylene (plastic), mixed rubber & SIlicone O-Rings, 2 neoprene o-rings/washers, and a few chromed Swiftech fittings/caps.
  • Blocks/Radiators had been soaked/shaken/scrubbed with vinegar+water and flushed properly before put into use. 3rd disassembly to date. Chromed pieces have not flaked at all.





Other info:
Radiators: Swiftech (both brass/copper)
Fttings: All Swiftech. Hxxx-X series angled fittings (look like POM or Poleypropylene with chromed base. Hope it's not steel), a few black painted barbs that came with Swiftech micro-res, and a couple Swiftech Lok-Seal compression fittings.
Blocks: Swiftech Apogee XL (copper/acetel), Danger Den MPC-TDX (Just copper & Acrylic) modded to fit GPU

Nothing was exposed to direct sunlight or UV light. PT Nuke was skipped this fill due to having to tear it down so soon, so it was temporary - but there shouldn't be any biological growth this soon i would think.

Thanks, any and all input is appreciated thumb.gif
Edited by s74r1 - 9/26/15 at 9:14am
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post #2 of 6
No tubing should turn brown. Green residue looks like there is life in your loop; brown tubes /white build up look like there's some sort of metal reaction going on.

Where did you get your radiators/blocks/fittings from?

If I were you I would contact Swiftech support with those pictures (Lok Seal ones).
Edited by thwl - 9/26/15 at 8:27am
post #3 of 6
looks like my tubing after two years not a few weeks.

fist question was the section of tubing that is shown in direct sunlight for a few hours a day? this would explain that issue

I use distilled water 80% antifreeze 15% and water wetter 5% so I have never had a issue with corrosion, and that white stuff, if it is not dye, than it could be corrosion starting in your loop. this would be bad. you would not be the first to experience corrosion in there loop I would use a different liquid but you have to build you loop to withstand what I use, no acrylic parts can be used, but it does not seem to affect the bitspower reservoirs, I think they use a chemical resistant coating on there reservoirs.
Edited by toolmaker03 - 9/26/15 at 8:53am
post #4 of 6
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by thwl View Post

No tubing should turn brown. Green residue looks like there is life in your loop; brown tubes /white build up look like there's some sort of metal reaction going on.

Where did you get your radiators/blocks/fittings from?

If I were you I would contact Swiftech support with those pictures (Lok Seal ones).

Radiators: Swiftech (both brass/copper)
Blocks: Swiftech Apogee XL (copper/acetel), Danger Den MPC-TDX (Copper & Acrylic) modded to fit GPU
Quote:
Originally Posted by toolmaker03 View Post

looks like my tubing after two years not a few weeks.

fist question was the section of tubing that is shown in direct sunlight for a few hours a day? this would explain that issue

I use distilled water 80% antifreeze 15% and water wetter 5% so I have never had a issue with correction, and that white stuff, if it is not dye, than it could be corrosion starting in your loop. this would be bad. you would not be the first to experience corrosion in there loop I would use a different liquid but you have to build you loop to withstand what I use, no acrylic parts can be used, but it does not seem to affect the bitspower reservoirs, I think they use a chemical resistant coating on there reservoirs.

Nothing was in direct sunlight and I had all UV lights turned off while not running PT Nuke temporarily for a month. I try to stay away from coolants and stick to brass/copper, most people report no issues. I skipped the PT Nuke since I knew I'd have to drain/fill it again within a month.

Guess I'll add this to the OP too. thanks for replies

Edit: emailed help@swiftech about this too @Dango
Edited by s74r1 - 9/26/15 at 8:59am
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post #5 of 6
if you had no biocide at all then it is probably some kind of growth.
 
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post #6 of 6
Quote:
Originally Posted by s74r1 View Post

Quick question, wanted some input.

I disassembled loop today and found some white residue on the barb of a Swiftech Lok-Seal compression fitting (inlet flow direction to radiator). Also curious is how quickly clear tubing turns brown, and plastics form a sort of green residue.



  • Residue description: 4-6wks usage since last flush/clean, white residue on chromed Swiftech Lok-Seal fitting seems hard, doesn't wipe off, only fingernails scrape at it but does not flake. Other parts (fittings, pump top, etc.) seem to have a green-ish residue which wipes off easy. Inside of radiators look a bit green-ish too, tarnished?
  • Coolant: Distilled water, nothing else. loop was semi-flushed after Distilled+PT Nuke PHN in prior fill.
  • Tubing: Plasticizer-free EPDM Rubber tubing with two (temporary) small strips of silicone based tubing (old Primoflex) in loop. (which turned brown, Vinyl tubing does the same in my loop. seems stained, nothing to scrape off).
  • Metals/Materials in loop: Copper, Brass, Acrylic, Acetel (POM), Polypropylene (plastic), mixed rubber & SIlicone O-Rings, 2 neoprene o-rings/washers, and a few chromed Swiftech fittings/caps.
  • Blocks/Radiators had been soaked/shaken/scrubbed with vinegar+water and flushed properly before put into use. 3rd disassembly to date. Chromed pieces have not flaked at all.





Other info:
Radiators: Swiftech (both brass/copper)
Fttings: All Swiftech. Hxxx-X series angled fittings (look like POM or Poleypropylene with chromed base. Hope it's not steel), a few black painted barbs that came with Swiftech micro-res, and a couple Swiftech Lok-Seal compression fittings.
Blocks: Swiftech Apogee XL (copper/acetel), Danger Den MPC-TDX (Just copper & Acrylic) modded to fit GPU

Nothing was exposed to direct sunlight or UV light. PT Nuke was skipped this fill due to having to tear it down so soon, so it was temporary - but there shouldn't be any biological growth this soon i would think.

Thanks, any and all input is appreciated thumb.gif

Regarding the poll... umm, yes. Just yes.

That loop is a complete trainwreck as far as maintenance is concerned, no offense intended.

The white residue is almost certainly plasticizers. Also, please reference your exact tubing manufacturer and model. Plasticizers free flex tubing doesn't really exist. There are only a handful of "Flex" tubings that don't have plasticizers. What most brands do is say "Plasticizers Free*", then you view the datasheets and it says "DEHP Plasticizers Free" or "phthalate plasticizers free". This is because plasticizers are what make tubing flexible. Without them you have fairly stiff tubing with a deplorable bend radius. That being said, without a reference to the exact make and model of your tubing we can only assume it does indeed still have plasticizers.

The brown and green residue is almost certainly microbial growth. You NEED a biocide. It doesn't matter how pure the water you're using is, the moment you crack open the bottle microbes in the air can get into it. It really doesn't matter if it's in direct sunlight, a florescent light bulb will generate enough light to allow microbes to grow. Long wave UV-A light (aka a black light) will also promote microbe growth in the loop.

Absolutely nothing in there is due to PT Nuke PHN residue, as PT Nuke PHN is benzyl chloride which is a colourless liquid.

-Z
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